The Food Timeline--beverages (2024)

"The news that Mr. Pat Moriarity's Chophouse on Sixth Avenue in New York is serving 'Irish Coffee Royal' brought Mr. Joe Sheridan to my door...Mr. Shereidan is the inventor of Irish or Gaelic coffee...I ran into it first at rainy Shannon Airport. It appears on all Irish menus. It spread to San Francisco, to the Hotel Sherman in Chicago, to the Mapes in Reno...'Now I invented it in the old days when the flyin' boats were coming to Foynes in Ireland. They were havin' a celebration like for the new lines and they wanted a drink with a warm glow to it. There's some say that I put the whisky in it to take away the taste of the horrible Irish coffee. But that's not true.. It is a drink I took myself every morning for my hangover. I put a little whisky in the coffee. I don't drink now...for it became bad for the health and I couldn't do it financially. As a matter of fact I'm a member of the AA, a back-sliding one in a way. For sometimes I've gone for a good one and worked by way from the elegant Hotel St. Francis down to Skid Road and back again. I brought my friend from the St. Francis down to Skid Road...but the St. Francis objected when I brought my friends from Skid Road up to the St. Francis. Mr. Joe Sheridan is a chef. He has been chef at Shannon and at Waikiki and presently at Place Pigalle in San Francisco...'Now I've kept under cover while the Irish coffee thing was beginning in the United States...until I could see which way the wind blows. I'm in hopes that it will go through the hotels down to the bars.'...I asked Mr. Sheridan if he had a preference in Irish whisky for the makings. 'In the old days I used John Powers or John Jamieson's. it was served in the best hotels in Ireland and was drunk by the elite of Ireland. now in those days, William of Tullamore was a small concern and was not used by the high class people. The O'Regans would never dream of it. But now I see Tullamore Dew has gone all out and captured the export trade in many places.'...I asked Mr. Sheridan how much sugar he put in the coffee-and-whisky. 'Two lumps, co*cktail size...When I made it for myself for the hangover, I drank it black. But with all the vice presidents and the big people comin' to Foynes for the celebrations, I floated the cream on top for the taste and the looks of it. I called it Gaelic coffee. But here in America it would be alright to call it Irish coffee. It being an Irish drink, invented by an Irishman and served in Ireland."
---"Stan Delaplane's Postcard: When Irish Eyes," Bakersfield Californian, March 17, 1955 (p. 29)

[1955]
Time magazine reports the socio-economic phenomenon sparked by Irish coffee sales. Syndicated columnist Stan Delaplane published his first personal encounter with Irish Coffee in 1954. One year later, Delaplane backdates experience to 1950, echoing tales already printed by less famous colleagues Othmanand Crane. "Black as Cromwell's heart" appears to be a standard Irish phrase; both Sheridan and Delaplane quote. Time is the only publicationreferring to Joe Sheridan as a bartender. USA journalists took the liberty of elevating Sheridan to chef. We think Time got it right. Fact neither Sheridan nor Delaplane in later years professed preference for Irish Coffee must mean something in retrospect.

"On a chilly fall day at Shannon Airport five years ago, San Francisco Chronicle Columnist Stan ('Postcards') Delaplane stepped up to a bar for a bracer. From the other side, he was handed a drink he had never tasted before . Delaplane inquired and got--complete with an Irishman's flair for a tale--Bartender Joe Sheridan's explanation of the origin of the drink. Back in San Francisco Columnist Delaplane remembered the drink and the story. In his column, he wrote: 'Twas in the old days the flying boats were landing at Foynes--about '38 I should say: the passengers would come in by launch, shivering and shaking for to die with cold. 'Surely,' said Joe Sheidan, 'we must invent a stirrup cup for the poor souls and them not able to pub their shivering hands in their pockets for a shilling to pay unless we warm them. What is more 'warming,' said Joe, 'thank Irish whisky, smooth as a maiden's kiss? To take the chill off their poor shaking hands we will fill the glass with coffee black as Cromwell's heart. We will top it with a floating inch of Irish cream.' The result: Irish coffee. The memory of the drink was not enough for Columnist Delaplane. One night at San Francisco's Buena Vista bar, he showed the bartender how to make Irish coffee. The drink that Columnist Delaplane mixed (and reported in his column), packed a wallop felt far from San Francisco. A few weeks after Delaplane's demonstration came a startled cable from Ireland to a San Francisco liquor importer: What;s Happening? The answer: Delaplane had touched off a craze for Irish coffee. In San Francisco's Buena Vista bar alone, consumption of Irish whisky leaped from two cases a year to 1,000 cases, an average of 700 Irish coffees a day. Visitors from some 40-odd cities where Delaplane's columns turned up in droves to sample the magic dew. The consumption of Irish coffee has become to great that exports of Irish whisky to the U.S. increased 40% last year, to 10,000 cases. In Manhattan, bistro from Pat Moriarity's Chop House (price: 85 cents) to the 21 Club ([price $1.75) have begun ladling out Irish coffee. TV Star Jack Webb built an entire Dragnet around Irish Coffee...This fall the flabbergasted Irish whisky industry begins a campaign to put Irish coffee on the menus of bars and restaurants all over the U.S. But the men who introduced the drink to America, Bartender Joe Sheridan and Columnist Stan Delaplane, will not be part of the campaign. Joe Sheridan, who left Ireland and drifted to Canada, Hawaii and finally by sheer coincidence, to San Francisco, cannot stand to even look at the drink any more. Instead of taking a place of honor he has been offered behind the bar at the Buena Vista, he works as a cook in Tiny's Waffle Shop, an all-night restaurant near San Francisco's Union Square. 'Whisky and me, 'tis the sad truth,' he says, 'do not get along, whether it be in coffee or not.' As for Stan Delaplane, he avoids Irish whisky even straight (as it should be drunk), and will have not truck with Irish coffee. Says he: 'I can't stand the stuff any more.' Recipe: preheat a six-ounce glass with very hot water. Empty and refill the glass there-fourths full of hot, black, strong coffee. Add three cubes of sugar and stir until dissolved. Add a full jigger if Irish whisky and float whipped cream on top."
---"Delaplane's Dew," Time, August 29, 1955 (p. 51)

[1955]
"Transatlantic travelers come home with glowing reports of a marvelous new drink. Irish Coffee. Americans stopping at the famousShannon Airport first discovered the unique delight of Irish Coffee. Now, more and more smart spots are serving thisfabulous drink...more and more people are making it at home. In San Francisco, for example, Irish Coffee is becoming as popularas the Dry Martini. The magic of Irish Coffee lies in the fact that the coffee, the JOhn Jameson and cream combine in somemysterious way to create a seductive new flavour. It is what scientists call synergistic action, which means that the cooperative action of the ingredients is infinitely more delightful than any of them taken independently. Skeptical about that synergisticaction? Well, try Irish Coffee....How to make Irish Coffee. Into a pre-warmed stemmed 7-ounce goblet or a coffee cup, put jigger ofJohn Jameson Irish Whiskey and 1 to 2 teaspoons of sugar. Fill to within 1/2 inch of top with strong black coffee. Instant coffeemay be used if desired. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Top to brim with chilled whipped cream, so that cream floats on top. Donot stir after adding cream. The true delight of Irish Coffee is obtained by drinking the hot coffee and John Jameson throughthe cream. P.S. It is important to use all pot still Irish whiskey..."
---display ad, John Jameson Irish Whiskey, Gourmet, October 1955 (p. 9)

[1960]
Buena Vista Cafe prides itself as the American celebrity epicenter for Irish coffee drinkers.

"Other than the society pages, you'll probably see more social celebs at the San Francisco Buena Vista Cafe sipping Irish coffee and chatting about their next yacht trip than in any other place in town. This foot of Hyde street restaurant and bar helped put Irish whisky on the bal when they started serving their now-famous Irish coffee. Excellent cafe for dining with an ocean view for a panoramic backdrop."
---"Society Sips Irish Coffee at Buena Vista," San Mateo Times [CA], June 28, 1960 (p. 21A)

[1964]
The first of several "the truth about Irish coffee" investigations.

"Irish Coffee was evolved late in the 1930s at Shannon Airport by the head chef, a Gael named Joe Sheridan. And America provided an assist. The drink was inspired by a group of tourists from this country who arrived at the airport on a cold, wintry night in dire need of stimulant. Their plan had been delayed and they were weary and wet. The waiter became confused by the several orders if it coffee and hot toddies, Sheridan rose nobly to the occasion. In a burst of enthusiasm and inventiveness he combined a jigger of Irish whiskey, sugar, hot black coffee and whipped cream, all in preheated glass. Anyone who has seen or sampled the Irish Coffee knows the cream must be poured gently to form a white collar above the black base. Of course, uninspired bartenders in this country can, and do, employee whipped whip cream, but Sheridan used the fresh variety...It is only fair to San Francisco to explain Irish Coffee, although not originating there, was given a boost by the writings of a transbay travel columnist who we'll call Stan Delaplane. He sampled the nectar at Shannon and wrote about it. Word spread through California, across the Rockies and eventually to New York. Now Irish Coffee is as well-known in our country as the martini...Perhaps readers of this piece will image I exhumed these enlightening facts during an extended stay in Ireland last year. Journalistic integrity insists credit be given where credit is due--to the Department of External Affairs of dear old Ireland..." ---"The Truth About Irish Coffee," Alan Ward, Oakland Tribune [CA], March 20, 1964 (p. 32)

[1966]
Delaplane & O'Regan share Joe Sheridan's death. Tone is whistful, almost remoresful. It is not the festive Irish wake we expected. We wonder why Sheridan disappeared from Delaplane's personal radar while the columnist continued cashing in his story for 30 years. O'Regan was mentioned over the yearsin management capacity at Shannon. Like Delaplane, O'Regan seems squirmy and uncomfortable here. Obviously, thereis more to this story. We give Delaplane & O'Regan kudos for having the guts to publish this tribute.

"'There we were, Brandon O'Regan and I...having an Irish coffee to the memory of Joe Sheridan, who invented it. 'Joe Sheridan wrote me,' said O'Regan. 'And he said in his letter, 'There's some say it wasn't me that invented Irish coffee and maybe you'd better set them straight...For you must remember you asked me for a warm drink for the passengers when the old flying boats used to come into Shannon.' 'And that's true, said O'Regan, 'and I did remember. But I didn't say so. For some other people in Ireland were claiming it. And it looked like I would be blowing my own horn too much since I'm still running Shannon Airport. And now that Joe Sheridan is gone, It's a thing I regret not doing.' That was a few weeks ago. So off today to the Buena Vista Cafe on San Francisco's waterfront. It made Irish coffee famous. And by it became famous itself all over the world...The coffee (Irish whisky and coffee topped with a collar of cream) has spread to places you wouldn't believe. They serve Irish coffee in the Parisian Grill in Hong Kong...Joe Sheridan kept a clipping of mine. It said flatly that he invented the heart-warming drink. He kept it in his foxy pocket. Which shows how much store he put by it (Seamen sew a hidden pocket in their clothes--they foxy pocket). 'This is the proof of it,' Joe told me. I don't know why some of the Dublin people said it was somebody else invented Irish coffee. I guess when something becomes famous, a crowd of people rise up to take credit for it,' said O'Regan...Joe Sheridan didn't die in Ireland. He went to sea. Sailed out of here through the Golden Gate and never came back. He died in some Far East Port, a lonely seaman's death. It was his heart, I think. I can't even remember the city where he was buried."
---"Late Joe Sheridan Invented Irish Coffee," Stan Delaplane, Lowell Sun [MA] November 22, 1966 p. 26)

[1973]
In the USA, Joe Sheridan's spirit lived on.

"Now year year it told by some that Irish coffee--and it was known then as Gaelic coffee--was invented in the Green Dolphin in Dublin. That's long gone...No matter. The truth of it is the Gaelic coffee was first put together by Joe Sheridan who was chef here when the flying boats used to put in at Foynes on the river. He's dead now...."
---"Gaelic Coffee," Stan Delaplane, Bakersfield Californian, July 24, 1973 (p. 19)

[1978]
In Ireland, Sheridan's memory collected dust in a back room.

"'The plaque to Joe Sheridan who invented Irish coffee?...Ah, it's in the back room for polishing.' [The bartender] went back and brought it our. Propped it on the bar. And I had an Irish coffee in memory of Joe who made the first of those heartwarming drinks when the flying boats were crossing the cold Atlantic to Ireland."
---"A Shannon Shop Sells for Less," Stan Delaplane, Los Angeles Times, March 19, 1978 (p. E15)

[1983]
Toward the end of his life, Delaplane shares his personal cup of nostalgia with a hit of wisdom.

"Irish coffee...was first introduced in America by Stanton Delaplane, the Pulitzer Prize winning columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle. Although Delapane did not win the prize for his introduction, it should be, nonetheless, a grateful nation that raises its mug on St. Paddy's Day...'To Delaplane.' 'It was invented back in 1945, or '48, by a bartender at Shannon Airport whose name was Joe Sheridan,' Delaplane recently recalled. 'The first time I had it was about 1950. I was with Earl Wilson and a bunch of guys, and we got into Shannon at about 5 on a real rosy Irish morning. 'We'd blown an engine--it was pretty standard back then to blow an engine going over the Atlantic--so we had to stay over. At that time Shannon was a very small airport. There were no big shops, no hotel. Nothing. There were a couple of Quonset huts that we stayed in, and that's how I got into Irish coffee; there was nothing else to do. 'When I came back to San Francisco, I went down to the Buena Vista, a little bar on the waterfront frequented by newspapermen. The place as doing so badly back then there were only about three guys in the place. We decided to work out the recipe for Irish coffee. 'Our first attempts...were so bad we couldn't even get the cream to float. Anyway, one of the guys there was a guy who would drink anything. We'd mix one up, hate it, and sent it on down to him... and he'd drink it. They were kinda milky-looking things and terrible. We kept on trying...and that guy just got drunker and drinker. The problem was the cream. Irish cream is much heavier than American cream. 'The viscosity--the surface tension--holds up the cream,' Delaplane reveals. 'When you hae think cream to start with, and you add sugar to the coffee, well, it's difficult. The solution was eventually discovered, and is still used at the Buena Vista. The cream is aerated for a second or two in a blender before it is oured over the back of a spoon into the coffee, where it then flats. Irish coffee turned the Buena Vista around, according to Delaplane, and made its reputation. The establishment, adjacent to the cable care turn-around at Fisherman's Warf, is immensley successful; 36 1-quart bottles of Irish whiskey have been poured every single day for the last 20 years. Delaplane feels 'very little remorse' about frayning the American moral fiber with his Irish coffee. He is, in fact, somewhat proud. 'They put up a bronze plaque outside the Buena Vista in my honor...I don't drink Irish coffee much over here. I drink it sometimes when I'm in Ireland as a kind of gesture or a vote of confidence; getting it now is different. I don't get the same feeling I used to get back then. It's like a time that was baked in my life, like your first date...It was like a time and a place that were just right for me. Life was a little more adventurous back then. What you need to do...is fly all night from Newfoundland in a propeller-driven airplane. We flew so low we could see icebergs, and we'd get into Shannon at 5 o'clock on one of those wonderful Irish monrnings. There was snow on the runway and it was bitterly cold. The we'd take the Irish coffee, and it was great. I'll never do that again,' Delaplane says with a sad fondness...
Buena Vista's Irish Coffee
Farmer's Brothers coffee
3 lumps sugar
1 ounce Buena Vista (or Tullamore Dew) Irish whiskey
Fresh whipped cream
Fuill prewarmed, 6-ound bell-shaped fizz glass 2/3 full of fresh coffee. Add sugar and whiskey. Stir and then top with fresh whipped cream. (Although the barman at the Buena Vista did not mention this, a little bit of sugar and vanilla can be added to the cream brefore it is whipped; it's a sensuous touch.)"
---"Now Sip, Sip Hooray for Irish Coffee," Rhyder McClure, Los Angeles Times, March 17, 1983 (p. J1)
[NOTE:
The Irish Coffee Story, as told by The Buena Vista Cafe, San Francisco.]

[1984]
Bert Greene's "truth about Irish coffee" echoes Ward's investigation published 20 years prior. Variables on the "truth about" Irish coffee theme include (1) year: late 1930s, 1938, 1942, 1945, 1948, 1949 (2) place: Foyne's Flying Boat Basin, Shannon Airport (same establishment, known by different names in different years, like Idelwild and JFK) (3) time of day: always dark (sometimes predawn other timeslate night).

"One of the recent calls I received came from Ireland...Eugene McSweeney, chef-owner of Lacken House in Kilkenny called. McSweeney telephoned recently with only the slighted degree of ire, to set the record straight on Irish Coffee. It seems that many American food writers have been perpetuating the rumor (like Chinese chop suey and French tast) Irish Coffee was actually invented in the United States. The place of origin supposedly is the bar of the St. Francis Hotel in San Francisco. Not so, claims McSweeney with a sheaf of historical documentation to prove the drink's actual source. Since Irish Coffee is certainly a favored libation from coast to coast, it seemed high time to get the facts nailed down, so I did. And pried a recipe for the spirited drink from McSweeney in passing. According to McSweeny, Irish Coffee was the invention of bar man Joe Sheridan who tended the pub at Shannon Airport in 1949 when it was known as Foyne's Flying Boat Basin. As the story goes, one morning when the clipper was overdue from America, passengers were so cold that they begged him for a quick hot toddy to revive their flagging spirits. Being a creative fellow, he whipped up a drink of what he had on hand: fresh brewed coffee, brown sugar and Irish whiskey. He floated some whipping cream on top. The rest is history, and there is even a plaque commemorating Sheridan's stirring arm at Shannon Airport."
---"Setting the Record Straight on the True History of an Old Irish Favorite," Bert Greene's Kitchen, Los Angeles Times, November 23, 1984 (p. Q12)

[1988]
Stan Delaplane's obituary seals the lid forever on his Irish coffee connection.

"Stanton Delaplane, Pulitzer Prize-winning columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle and a world traveler with popularizing Irish Coffee in the United States, died in San Francisco on Monday at the age of 80...Delaplane, who spent about half the year overseas to create his six-day-a-week columns, joined the Chronicle in 1938 as a reporter. He became a syndicated columnist when a series of 'Postcards' he went back from a trip were collected and published. His subjects ranged from unusual people to those he knew best, his family and friends...Delaplane's connection to Irish coffee is part of San Francisco history. After sampling the libation at Shannon Airport, he returned to America and spent a long evening studiously working out the proper balance of whiskey, coffee, sugar and cream at the Buena Vista Cafe near the food to Hyde Street. Overnight, Jack Koeppler, the late owner of the bar, found himself overrun with patrons and the drink's popularity spread rapidly. Later, Delaplane was quoted in Time magazine as saying , 'I can't stand the stuff anymore.'"
---"Obituaries, Stanton Delaplane; Award-Winning Trave Columnist," Times Staff, Los Angeles Times, April 19, 1988 (p. C25)
[NOTE: Mr. Delaplane was awarded 1941 Pulitzer Prize for reporting "The Free State of Jefferson," four Nothern California counties and one Oregon county that threatened to break away and form a 49th state in a dispute over highway construction in the gold and copper mining areas.]

Related beverage? Cappuccino.

Lemonade
Lemonade is(along with several other popular food innovations) sometimes touted as having been"introduced" at the St. Louis Exposition in 1904. This is not true. Food historian Clifford A. Wright confirms the earliest lemonades originated in the Mediterranean region. Indigenous lemons were valued for their medicinal as wellas flavorful properties.Lemonade was introduced to America by European settlers in the 17th century. Economics of the ice trade and temperance advocates expanded the markets for sweet cold drinks in the mid-nineteenth century. Pink lemonadealso surfaced about this time. Lemon slices served with bottled table waterappears in the early 20th century.

About modern lemonade

"From its simple seventeenth-century beginnings as a drink made from lemon juice and water,usually with sugar, lemonade has diverisfied widely...The term is an adapation of Frenchlimonade, a derivative of limon...It was the first example in English of a word for a fruit drinkending in -ade (orangeade followed in the eighteenth century), but it was not really until the latenineteenth century that the suffix took on a life of its own with new formations such as cherryade,gingerade, and limeade."
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p.188)

"Lemonade, which in its simplest form is a drink made with lemon juice, sugar, and water, has ahistory dating back at least to the thirteenth century, when Arab cookery books offered recipesfor drinks made from lemon syrup. The Mongols enjoyed a sweetened lemon drink preserved withalcohol, and the Persians enjoyed sharbia, from which English "sherbet" derives. By themid-seventeeeth century the drink was popular in Europe when limoadiers, street vendors inFrance,sold lemonade at modest prices. A lemonade recipe appeares in the 1653 English translation of LaVarenne's The French Cook. Lemonade arrived in America no later than the eighteenthcentury,imported from the various European cultures of immigrants...lemonade's image underwent atransformation engendered by the temperance movement, which turned lemonade into a genteelVictorian drink...Modern technology also helped the juice flow...Lemonade's popularity roseunabated, prompting the 1901 New Orleans Times-Picayune's Creole Cook Book toproclaim, "Lemonade is among the most delightful and most commonly used of all Fruit Waters."Lemonade was also considered a tonic, served to those suffering from colds...or to invalids."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [OxfordUniversity Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 30-1)

Grocer's notes, circa 1883:
"Lemonade. A beverage made from the juice of the lemon, for the purpose of allaying thirst. It is also used for medicinal purposes, when it is made either hot or cold, according to the complaint. The vendors of lemonade use citric or tartaric acid, or even a few drops of sulfuric acid, to make their mixture, and only slice a few lemons to float on the surface and please the eye. Most of the lemonade powders declared to be pure, are made in a similar way. Reliable brands of lime-juice are preferable, unless the fresh fruit is at hand."
---The Grocer's Companion and Merchant's Hand-Book [New England Grocer Office:Boston] 1883 (p. 74-5)

[1653]
"How to make Lemonade

It is made several waies, according to the diversity of the ingredients. For to make it with Jasmin,you must take of it about two handfull, infuse it in two or three quarts of water the space of eightor ten houres; then to one quart of water you shall put six ounces of sugar. Those of orangeflowers, of muscade roses, and of gelliflowers, are made after the same way. For to make that oflemon, take some lemons, cut them, and take out the juice, put it in water as abovesaid. Pare another lemon, cut it into slices, put it among thisjuice, and some sugar proportionately. That of orange is made the same way."
---The French Cook, Francoise Pierre, La Varenne, Englished by I.D.G. 1653, introducedby Philip and Mary Hyman [Southover Press:East Sussex] 2001 (p. 238-9)
[NOTE: Gellifllowers (gillyflouwers) are carnations or clove pinks.]

[1769]
"Lemonade for the same use.
To one quart of boiled water add the juice of six lemons, rubthe rinds of the lemons with sugar to your own taste. When the water is near cold mix the juiceand sugar with it, then bottle it for use."
---The Experienced English Housekeeper, Elizabeth Raffald, (1769), with an introductionby Roy Shipperbottom [Southover Press:East Sussex] 1997 (p. 172)

[late 1700s]
"To Make Sirrup of Leamons.
First cut your leamons in 2 & pick out ye [the] stones & prickthem well with a knife, & ye Juice will come out ye better. Then wring them as long as you canget out any Juice, & to every pinte of it take a pound of sugar. Set them on ye fire together &make them boyle as fast as you can, to a thin sirrup, for If you boyle it too much, it will candypresently. It will require a great many leamons to make a pound."
---Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [ColumbiaUniversity Press:New York] 1995 (p. 370-1)
[NOTE: Karen Hess adds this note: "On the medicinal virtues of lemons, Gerard says: "Twopoundes of the juyce of Limons, mixed with the like quantity of the spririt of wine...and drunk atthe first approach of the fit of an ague, taketh away the shaking presently." He cautions, however,that "the Patient be covered warme in a bed, and caused to sweat."

[1845]
"Delicious Milk Lemonade.
Dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water, andmix with them a quarter of a pint of lemon-juice, and the same quantity of sherry; then addthree-quarters of a pint of cold milk, stir the whole well together, and pass it thorugh a jelly-bagtillclear."

"Excellent Portable Lemonade. Rasp, with a quarter-pound of sugar, the rind of a veryfine juicy lemon, reduce it to powder, and pour on it the strained juice of the fruit. Press themixture into a jar, and when wanted for use dissolve a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water. Itwill keep a considerable time. If too sweet for the taste of the drinker, a very small portion ofcitric acid may be added when it is taken."
---Modern Cookery for Private Families, Eliza Acton (1845) with an introduction byElizabeth Ray [Southover Press:East Sussex] 1993 (p. 481)

[1857]
"Hot Lemonade
. Cut up the whole of a lemon, rind and all, add one teascul full of white sugar, and pour on boiling water. This isgood for colds, and is a pleasant drink for the sick."
---Practical American Cookery and Domestic Economy, Elizabeth M. Hall [Miller, ORton & Co:New York] 1857 (p. 328)
[1869]
"Lemonade
. Steep the peel of 6 lemons in 1 quart of syrup at 35 degrees F.; Press out thejuice of the lemons; add 2 quarts of water, and filter the whole through a jelly-bag with somepaper; Strain the syrup through a silk sieve; mix it with the filtered juice, and pour the Lemonadeinto glass jugs."
---Royal Cookery Book, Jules Gouffre, translated from the French and adapted forEnglish use by Alphonse Gouffe [Sampson Low, Son, and Marston:London] 1869 (p. 567)

[1878]
"Staten Island Lemonade

Take half a dozen fresh lemons, and a half dozen smooth Seville oranges, at rub loaf sugar on the otuside, until the flavoring oil is allextracted from the rind; roll them soft, press out the juice, add the sugar to the juice, strain off the seeds, a bowl ofpounded ice, a pint of Sherry, and a quart of water. Shake all together very thorougly. It is a delicious summer drink."
---Jennie June's American Cookery Book, Mrs,. J. C. Croly [G.H.W. Bates & Company:Boston MA] 1878 (p. 273-274)

[1884]
"Lemonade.
--Squeeze the juice from one lemon and add one tablespoonful of sugar. Pour onone cup of boiling water, and cool. Or take hot for a cold, after retiring."
---Boston Cooking School Cook Book, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln (facsimile 1884 reprint) [DoverPublications:Mineola NY] 1996 (p. 420)

[1891]
"Effervescing Lemonade.
--Boil two pounds of white sugar with one pint of lemon juice;bottle and cork. Put a tablespoonful of syrup into a tumbler about three parts of cold water, addtwenty grains of carbonate of soda, and drink quickly."
---Modern Home Cook Book: With Helps and Hints for the Household [Hurst &Company:New York] 1891 (p. 72)

[1892]
"Lemonade.
--Use three large or four medium-sized lemons for each quart of water and fromsix to eight tablespoonfuls of sugar. Rub or squeeze the lemons till soft. Cut a slice or two fromeach, and extract the juice with a lemon drill; strain the juice through a fine wire strainer toremove the seeds of the pulp, and pour it over the sugar. Add the slices lemon, pour over all avery little boiling water to thoroughly dissolve the sugar; let it stand ten or fifteen minutes, thenadd the necessary quantity of cold water, and serve. Or rub the sugar over the outside of thelemons to flavor it, and make it into a syrup by adding sufficient boiling water to dissolve it.Extract and strain the lemon juice, add the prepared syrup and the requisite quantity of coldwater, and serve."
---Science in the Kitchen, Mrs. E.E. Kellogg [Modern Medicine Publishing Co.:BattleCreek, MI] 1892 (p. 362)

[1906]
"Lemonade.
Lemonade whould be made in the proportion of one lemon to each large goblet.Squeeze the lemons and take out any seeds. If you do not like the pulp strain the juice. Sweetenthe drink well though that is a matter of taste. The pleasant tart taste should be preserved. Addwater to the juice and when serving put cracked ice and a thin slice of lemon into each glass.E.J.C."
---The Blue Ribbon Cook Book, Annie R. Gregory [Monarch Book Company:ChicagoIL] 1906 (p. 344)

[1913]
"Lemonade.

4 lemons
4 tablespoonfuls sugar
1 qt. Water, or a bottle of Apollinaris
Four lemons, rolled, peeled, and sliced; four large spoonfuls of sugar; one quart of water. Putlemons (sliced) and sugar into a pitcher and let them stand for an hour, then add water and ice. Ifyou substitute Apollinaris for plain water you have a most refereshing drink."
---The American Home Cook Book, Grace E. Denison [Barse & Hopkins:New York]1913 (p. 454)

[1920]
"Lemonade.
Lemonade is entitled to the first place on the list of fruit beverags, refreshing asit is in itself, and capable as it is of numerous variations. Proportions for mixing are 3 times asmuch sugar as lemon juice, and 6 times as much water, but it may be wise to hold back part of thesugar until after mixing, in case it should be too sweet. It is quite easy to add more sugar, but notso easy to add more lemon juice and water. In hot weather it is most convenient to have lemonadesyrup "on tap." It will keep in the refrigerator for a week."
---What and How: A Practical Cook Book for Every Day Living [Greenwood BookShop:Wilmington DE] 1920 (p. 27)

[1936]
"Lemonade or Orangeade.

2 tablespoons sugar
Juice of 1/2 lemon or orange
1 cup water
Mix and stir until dissolved. Or boil sugar and water to a syrup, cool, add to juice. Serve hot orcold."
---The Settlement Cook Book, Mrs. Simon Kander [Settlement Cook BookCo.:Milwaukee WI] 1936 (p. 36)

[1944]
"Lemonade (Basic Recipe)

3/4-1 c. Granulated sugar
5 c. Water
3/4 c. Lemon juice
Skins 3 lemons
Combine sugar, 1 c. water and skins left after squeezing lemon juice. Simmer, covered, 6 min.Cool. Squeeze out skins and discard. Add lemon juice and remaining 4 c. Water. Carbonatedwater may be substituted for this water. Serve well iced with lemon slice garnish. Serves 4-5. CrnSyrup may replace half the sugar."
---The Good Housekeeping Cookbook, New edition, completely revised [Farrar,Rinehart:New York] 1944 (p. 81)

[1956]
"Lemonade.
Combine in saucepan 1 cup sugar, 1 cup water, rind of 2 lemons, cut into pieces.Stir over low heat until sugar is dissolved. Boil about 1 min. Strain; discard rind. Cool. Add...1cup fresh or frozen lemon juice (45 6o 6 lemons), 4 cups water (1 qt.). Pour over ice in pitcher ortall glasses. Amount: 6 to 8 servings."
---Betty Crocker's Picture Cook Book, revised and enlarged, Second edtion [McGrawHill:New York] 1956 (p. 74)

[1963]
"Lemonade

HOMEMADE: Combine 2 cups lemon juice, 4 teasp. Grated lemon rind, 1 1/2 cups granulatedsugar. Pour into glass jar; cover. Keep on hand in refrigerator.
To serve: Allow 1/4 cup syrup for each glass. Fill with ice cubes and water. (Nice tintedpink with grenadine.) Makes 2 2/3 cups syrup.
JIFFY:Just open a can of frozen or canned lemonade or pink lemonade concentrate; add waterand ice as label directs; enjoy a pitcherful of luscious lemonade in no time at all."
---The Good Housekeeping Cookbook, Dorothy B. Marsh [Good Housekeeping:NewYork] 1963(p. 684)

[1973]
"Fresh Lemonade.

3 lemons, 3/4 cup sugar, Ice cubes, Maraschino cherries with stems, drained.
1. With a sharp knife, very thinly slice lemons crosswise. Discard end slices and seeds.
2. Put lemon slices into a large bowl or sturdy pitcher. Add the sugar.
3. With a wooden spoon or potato masher, pound until the sugar is dissolved and slices arebroken.
4. Add 1 tray of ice cubes and 2 cups cold water. Stir until very cold.
5. To serve: Pour lemonade, along with lemon slices, into glasses. Garnish each glass with acherry.
Makes 5 cups, or 4 tall glasses."
---The New McCall's Cookbook, Mary Eckly, food editor of McCall's [RandomHouse:New York] 1973 (p. 72)

Orange juice
The story of orange juice begins with
oranges. Food historians tell us citrus fruits originated inAsia thousands of years ago. They were introduced to America as part of the ColumbianExchange.Early cooks valued oranges for their zesty flavor and health properties. English and Americancookbooks from early times through the 19th century contain many recipes with oranges. Someofthese are flavored with oranges (orange cheesecake, orange foole, orange snow, orangeCharlotte, orange sherbet); others feature oranges as the primary ingredient (orange marmelade,orange compote, fresh fruit salad with oranges). Perhaps the earliest recipes for orange juice(besides the "just squeeze it!) "orangeade," or "orange water." These combined orangejuice/extract with a sweetener. According to the old cookbooks, this drink was served both as arefreshment and to the sick. Lemonade shares a similar history. Tomato juice was also considered a restorative during the early 20th century.

Orange juice, as we Americans know it today, is a relatively modern item. Before massproduction and refrigerated transportation, few people enjoyed orange juice as a regular part oftheir diet. In the United States, health food advocates and nutritionists promoted orange juice inthe 1920s. Commercial operations began selling frozen orange juice to the public just afterWorld War II.

[1892]
Ella Eaton Kellogg's (Battle Creek, Michigan) recipe for orangeade.

[1916]
Sunkist brand advertising booklet, circa 1916:
"In pressing the juice from Sunkist Lemons and Oranges, the glass or china squeezers are bestand most convenient. The best orangeade is undiluted Sunkist Orange Juice, served in thin glasses,one-third full of cracked ice. For young children, strain the Sunkist Orange Juice through a finewire strainer or through cheesecloth, and serve in a thick punch-glass."
---Sunkist Recipes Oranges-Lemons, Mrs. Alice Bradley [California Fruit GrowersExchange:Los Angeles CA] 1916 (p. 5)

[1921]
"For That Acid Stomach, cut down the daily ration of starchy foods--drink a glass of water on arising, then a glass oforange juice just before breakfast. Make your 'meat' Shredded Wheat. Heat two of these crisp brown loaves of whole wheat in the oven to restore crispness and eat them with butter--the more you chew the shreds the more easily digested and greater the foodvalue."
---display ad, Pacific Coast Shredded Wheat Co., Oakland CA, Los Angeles Times, August 10, 1921 (p. B2)

Frozen orange juice
Our research confirms Minute Maid brand orange juice concentrate was developed by Vacuum Foods Corporation in 1945. Originally created for the U.S. Army, the product was introduced to the American public April 30, 1946. The company changed its name to Minute Maid in 1949. In the summer of 1949, Minute Maid ran a major ad campaign in major popular magazines/newspapers.

"Minute Maid brand of orange juice is the category brand leader in the United States with a well-differentiated line of frozen concentrate and chilled varieties. Minute Maid has been offering consumers...frozen concentrated orange juice since 1946...Minute Maid was the first orange juice brand developed as a frozen concentrate. In 1946 John M. Fox, the brand founder, initially marketed the concentrate through door-to-door salesmen in Massachusetts. Fox founded Florida Foods, Inc. in 1945. Within a year, the company name was changed to the Vacuum Foods Corporation. Vacuum Foods was affiliated with the National Research Corporation which had developed a high-vacuum evaporation process that eliminated 80 percent of the water to reduce orange juice to a concentrate while retaining the full flavor. Ultimately, the concentrate was frozen and successfully marketed as a convenient product available year round...Early marketing stressed the superior taste of Minute Maid's frozen concentrate as opposed to canned orange juice, as well as its convenience compared to squeezing fresh oranges. Minute Maid's name had ben created to focus customer's attention on how quickly the product could be transformed into orange juice. Early advertising emphasized Minute Maid's time savings, claiming the product saved a full five minutes in preparation time. The 1948 launch of the Bing Crosby radio campaign boosted early sales dramatically...a label with a black background was adopted in 1964. At that time it was extremely uncommon to associate the color black with food products."
---"Minute Maid," Encyclopedia of Consumer Brands, Janice Jorgensen editor [St. James Press:Detroit MI] 1994, Volume 1: Consumable Products(p. 376)

[1946]
US Patent & Trademark Office states Minute Maid brand juice was introduced to the American public April "Word Mark MINUTE MAID Goods and Services IC 032. US 046. G & S: FROZEN CONCENTRATED JUICES OF CITRUS FRUITS. FIRST USE: 19460430. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19460430 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM Serial Number 71615870 Filing Date June 6, 1951 Current Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0555105 Registration Date February 19, 1952 Owner (REGISTRANT) MINUTE MAID CORPORATION CORPORATION FLORIDA 488 MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK 22 NEW YORK (LAST LISTED OWNER) COCA-COLA COMPANY, THE CORPORATION BY MERGER WITH DELAWARE One Coca-Cola Plaza Atlanta GEORGIA 30313 Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Attorney of Record Dinisa H. Folmar Description of Mark Color is not claimed as a feature of the mark. Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL-2(F) Affidavit Text SECT 15. SECTION 8(10-YR) 20120302. Renewal 4TH RENEWAL 20120302 Live/Dead Indicator LIVE"

[1948]
"Frozen orange juice concentrate is the 'hot' item in the food industry at the moment. John M. Fox, president of Vacuum Foods Corp. told stockholders at the annual meeting. The company, a pioneer in the field, is producing and marketing its produce under the Minute Maid trade name. Mr. Fox stated that while the outlook is excellent, the business is very competitive. He said Birdseye division of General Foods Corp. is moving to take a dominant position in the concentrate field, if it can do so. Clinton Industries, through Sno Crop Marketeers is also going out aggressively for the business. 'A battle of the brands' as the companies fight for the market was predicted by Mr. Fox. To meet competition, Vacuum Foods plans an aggressive advertising program, which is expected to require a large part of the company's returns in the next four or five years, according to Mr. Fox. The company believes if found a partial solution to its advertising problem when it obtained the services of Bing Crosby, who is now a director and owner of 20,000 shares of Vacuum Foods common stock. Starting around December 1, Mr. Crosby will go on the air five days a week selling Minute Maid orange juice concentrate...The arrangement with Mr. Crosby is said to be a new one in the entertainment world, whereby an entertainer owns a share in the company whos product he is advertising. This program will be supplemented by other forms of sales promotions...The company is experimenting with citrus fruit blends. In addition, it is test-marketing an orangeade product, made with an orange concentrate base, in the Atlanta, Ga., area."
---"Bing Crosby to Go on Air for Vacuum Foods," Wall Street Journal, October 7, 1948 (p. 7)

"In a surprise move yesterday, Vacuum Foods Corporation, maker of Minute-Maid concentrated frozen orange juice, began processing for the 1948-49 season in its $2,500,000 plant at Plymouth, Fla. General production of concentrated juices was not expected to start for another thirty days, according to industry observers...Mr. Boerner pointed out that very favorable consumer acceptance of frozen concentrated orange juice has caused a backlog of orders that have been on an allotment basis since midsummer...The company's total production for this season has been placed at 2,250,000 gallons of concentrate, which is roughly three times last year's output...a survey just completed by the company in over 200 food shopping points in the metropolitan area shows average individual consumption of frozen orange juice concentrate to be four cans weekly."
---"Output Hastened by Vacuum Foods," New York Times, November 3, 1948 (p. 43)

[1949] ---"Vacuum Foods Changes Name to Minute Maid; To Issue New Preferred," Wall Street Journal, October 6, 1949 (p. 16)

Related beverages? Tang & Orange Julius.

PDQ
According to the records of the
, PDQ brand granular beverage mix was introduced to the American public January 23, 1962. The original manufacturer was Krim-Ko Corporation, Bensenville Illinois. The mark was later acquired by the National Sugar Board and finally Sandoz (now Novartis). There were two variations on this mark: Choco Chips (1972) and Berry Bits (1973). All of these marks are "dead," indicating the item is no longer in production. Records of the US Patent Office indicate Krim-Ko was experimenting with chocolate milk flavoring processes as early as 1941. Irish moss was the "secret" ingredient.?

[1963]
"PDQ Beads Chocolate, 14 oz can,"---Columbus Daily Telegram [OH], September 25, 1963 (p. 17)

[1965]
"National Sugar Refining Co. directors agreed to the acquisition of Krim-Ko Corp...Krim-Ko makes chocolate and eggnogg flavorings for milk under the PDQ brand."---"National Sugar Board Backs Plan to Acquire Privately Held Krim-Ko," Wall Street Journal, August 27, 1965 (p. 3)

[1969]
"The National Sugar Refining Company, the crowd that produces Jack Frost Sugar and PDQ chocolate additive, is placing its advertising future in the hands of Solow-Wexton. This just happens to be the agency for No-Cal sodas, flavoring and sugar substitutes. Ah, sweet mystery of business. 'Of course, there really should be no conflict, says Marty Solow, agency president. 'The per capita consumption of sugar, 97 pounds per person, has not gone down in the past five years. As a matter of fact, the projection is for increased sales, oddly enough of sugar-free sodas.'"---"Advertising:: Times Square of Ted Bates," Philip Dougherty, New York Times, July 7, 1969 (p. 48)

"Solow/Wexton, which gave us the Herring Maven, is now out to further popularize two American slang words of derision--gooky and yucchy. The agency will be doing it for PDQ, a chocolate additive for milk made by the National Sugar Refnining Company ('not all gooky and yucchy like other chocolate stuff'). For eight weeks, even New York radio stations are going to be saturated with gooky-yucchy, and there'll also be four-color ads in the The York Times Magazine."---"Agency to Popularize Slang Words," New York Times, October 6, 1969 (p. 74)
[Full page ad published November 9, 1969]

"PDQ Beads is the fastest and neatest stuff for milk. And a lot of other tings. Such as: It's a great snack right from the jar. It's a swell ice cream topping. It's dandy for chocolate sauce, chocolate cake, pinwheel cookies. And lots more. But mostly it makes the best chocolate drink in town. Those PDQ flavor beads really dissolve and disappear into the milk--not onto the glass. You'll know PDQ. It's the big 14 ounce jar of chocolate flavor beads sitting alongside chunky, cardboard cartons on your grocer's shelf. So get PDQ--quick. And save a dime. (PDQ and Jack Frost sugar are products of the National Sugar Refining Company.)" ---display ad with coupon, Bridgeport Telegram [CT], October 23, 1969 (p. 34)

[1971]
"Dessert. Take a big co*cktail glass. Dip ice cream into the glass. Put a little bit of PDQ (like you use to make cocoa) on the ice cream. Put more ice cream and PDQ--until it gets pretty full. Then you put a cherry on top!!"---"Kindergarten Recipe Book Guarantees Enjoyable Reading," Pharoh-Tribune and Press [Logansport IN], March 3, 1971 (p. 3)

PDQ advertised in cartoon-strip form. "Petey Q. and The Stolen Rocket Tent ad was published in the comic section of several USA newspapers. Ad invited consumers to purchase the PDQ Rocket Tent ,a portable play space for children, for $2.50. This example came from the San Antonio Light [TX], March 14, 1971 (p. 26).

[1980]
"PDQ Choc. beads, 9 1/2 oz jar, 89 cents."---Valley Independent [PA], November 17, 1980 (p. 22)

US Trademark registrations:
"Word Mark P.D.Q. Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: SOLID FOOD FLAVORING MATERIAL IN GRANULAR FORM. FIRST USE: 19620123. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19620821 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 72168420 Filing Date May 8, 1963 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0798139 Registration Date October 26, 1965 Owner (REGISTRANT) KRIM-KO CORPORATION CORPORATION ILLINOIS 26 N. GARDEN ST. BENSENVILLE ILLINOIS (LAST LISTED OWNER) SANDOZ NUTRITION CORPORATION CORPORATION ASSIGNEE OF DELAWARE 5320 W. 23RD STREET MINNEAPOLIS MINNESOTA 55440 Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Affidavit Text SECT 15. Renewal 1ST RENEWAL 19851026 Live/Dead Indicator DEAD" ?

"Word Mark PDQ CHOCO CHIPS Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: SOLID FOOD FLAVORING MATERIAL IN GRANULAR FORM. FIRST USE: 19720303. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19720303 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 72418568 Filing Date March 16, 1972 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0966645 Registration Date August 21, 1973 Owner (REGISTRANT) SANDOZ-WANDER, INC. CORPORATION DELAWARE 59 ROUTE 10 07936 EAST HANOVER NEW JERSEY 07936 Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Prior Registrations 0798139 Disclaimer APPLICANT CLAIMS NO REGISTRATION RIGHTS HEREIN FOR THE WORD "CHIPS" APART FROM THE MARK AS SHOWN, BUT APPLICANT WAIVES NONE OF ITS COMMON LAW RIGHTS IN SAID MARK OR ANY FEATURE THEREOF. Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Live/Dead Indicator DEAD" ?

"Word Mark PDQ BERRY BITS Goods and Services (EXPIRED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: SOLID FOOD FLAVORING MATERIAL IN GRANULAR FORM. FIRST USE: 19720510. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19720510 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 72445282 Filing Date January 5, 1973 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0976041 Registration Date January 1, 1974 Owner (REGISTRANT) SANDOZ-WANDER, INC. CORPORATION DELAWARE 59 ROUTE 10 EAST HANOVER NEW JERSEY 07936 Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Prior Registrations 0798139 Disclaimer APPLICANT CLAIMS NO REGISTRATION RIGHTS HEREIN FOR THE WORDS "BERRY BITS" APART FROM THE MARK AS SHOWN, BUT APPLICANT WAIVES NONE OF ITS COMMON LAW RIGHTS IN SAID MARK OR ANY FEATURE THEREOF. Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Affidavit Text SECT 8 (6-YR). Live/Dead Indicator DEAD"

Pink Lemonade
The origins of pink lemonade is a curious thing. Legendary concensus credits Henry E. Allott, a circus vendor, for accidentally inventing this drink. Our survey of American newspapers and cookbooks reveals several period references for coloring lemonade with pink or red fruit. Most notably watermelon, raspberries, cherries, currants, and strawberries. Which came first? It's hard to say.

Newspaper articles reporting Mr. Allott's death (1912) mention he invented the drink when he was 14 of 15. They do not, however, reveal his birth year or tell us how old he was when he died. Federal census records list two Henry Allotts. By process of elmination, our Henry was born in Wisconsin, 1858. He was 54 when he died in 1912. That would place his invention around 1872-1873.

The "legend"
"Henry E. Allott, known all through the Middle West as 'Bunk' Allen, member of the old Chicago gambling syndicate, saloonkeeper, theatrical promoter, circus man, and inventor of pink lemonade, died here today. At 15 he ran away with the circus and obtained a lemonade concession. One day while mixing a tub full of the orthodox yellow kind he dropped some red cinnamon candi es in by mistake. The resulting rose-tinted mixture sold so surprisingly well that he continuted to dispense his chance discovery."
---"Inventor of Pink Lemonade Dead," New York Times, September 18, 1912 (p. 11)

"The man who invented pink lemonade crossed over the river last week and now rests with the departed souls...He was Henry E. Allott, a circus man, who was brought up in the Middle West--of course he was a circus man, for pink lemonade and the circus were as closely linked, say, as galluses and overalls. But Allott, besides being a child of the three-ringed tent and the animal side show, was a child of Fortune, too. For the discovery of the dink which gave him fame was sheer accident--perhaps it was...Fortune's wings that brushed the cinnamon red candies off the box into Allott's tub of lemonade and changed the color to a flowing pink--and pink lemonade had arrived. This is just how it happened. Allott was 14 years old at the time, and running the candy and lemonade "concession," following a circus around the country...After the cinnamon candies had accidentally dropped in and suffused the lemonade on the instance we are speaking of, the new drink sold better than the old, and it was plain to Henry Allott that if the people who attended circuses had not been crying in divine high Pehlevi for lemonade, red lemonade, they had, in their own language, been hankering for it. Tub after tub was emptied, while the old yellow drink remained untouched. Thereafter the circus marked pink lemonade for its own...And the pink lemonade was there...It was there just as sure as the lady bareback rider came in gracefully balancing herself on her toes on the back of a white Chippendale horse...In your pocket you had 10 cents or maybe a quarter. Soon the men in red coats come up the aisles with the baskets of popcorn done up in red and blue and white oiled paper, with a prize in each, and peanuts, and--pink lemonade in glasses set in trays, with a straw in each and a piece of lemon floating on top--they myrmidons of Henry Allott... 25 years ago every boy and man...would have said that if pink lemonade went the circus must fall with it...It is a comfort to observe how sternly this institution kept to its early traditions; and never lost its colors even in its battle with the hosts of the pure-food forces. Pink it was when the cinnamon drops of Henry Allott first dissolved themselves in the wassail bowl he was mixing, and pink it remained--faded, perhaps, in the once-cent-a-glass grade which Allott never knew--but still a tint of the original color. And it would have been easy for an innovator in this age of change, you might think, to have mixed his wares with a little copperas, or carbide, or paris green, or whatever it is that one person says makes a food product one color and another fellow says it doesn't--easy, you would think, to put green lemonade on the market, or purple, and wean a portion of the public away from the original brand...But not, Pink it remained, ranging in the better grades to red...But the people, as a whole, which is the only way to speak of the pink-lemonade-drinking public, kept to their first love, and there has been much quiet satisfaction on this score among those who otherwise might have been prone to see in this country a tendency to lapse from the older thinking which have made the nation stable, even though times of unrest--times when pink lemonade itself might not have brooked the assaults against its bastions."
---"When Lemonade Was Pink," Washington Post, September 29, 1912 (p. M3)

The earliest print reference we find in an American source does indeed link pink lemonade with the circus:
[1879]
"That man selling pink "lemonade" at a stand in front of the bear's cage, was the "bar" keeper."
---"Five Minutes With the News," Wheeling Register [West Virginia], May 16, 1879 (p. 4)

[1863]
"Lemonade or Orangeade

Put two ounces of loaf sugar in a quart of water, also the rind of an orange or of one lemon. Half an hour after strain the whole, and press into it the juice of the orange, and a few drops of lemon juice. If found too strong, add water and sugar. It is a very good drink in summer, or for evening parties. A little currant jelly may be added to make a variety."
---What to Eat and how to Cook It, Pierre Blot [D. Appleton and Company:New York] 1863 (p. 18)
[NOTE: currants are red or black berries. When crushed, as in for jelly, the resulting color varies from deep red to pink.]

[1887]"...we might cut a watermelon and stir up a tubful of pink lemonade."
---"The Glorious Fourth," Atlanta Constitution, June 13, 1887 (p. 4)

[1892]
"Pink Lemonade.
Add to a pint of Lemonade prepared in the usual manner half a cup of fresh or canned strawberry, red raspberry, currant or cranberry juice. It gives a pretty color besides adding a pleasing flavor."
---Science in the Kitchen, Mrs. E.E. Kellogg [Modern Medicine Publishing Co.:Battle Creek, MI] 1892 (p. 362)

co*cktails
Last updated: 30 November 2021 (new section on the first co*cktail manual)

Mixed drinks combining alcohol and other ingredients have been served from ancient times forward. Think: Punch.co*cktails appear to be the modern refined answer to the original mixed drink. Careful, calculated, scientific & classy.co*cktails first surface in the early 19th century. Recipes evolved. Origination stories are understandably fuzzy and amazingly prolific. Our favorite "first co*cktail" story features a duel and makes this a morning drink. co*cktail parties soon followed. Happy Hoursurfaces about the same time but not for the reasons we expect. How much did co*cktails cost during Prohibition?

How did the co*cktail get its name?
"The word 'co*ck-tail,' describing a drink, first appeared in print in 1803. Several sources place its origins in the lateeighteenth century. New York author and historian Washington Irving wrote in 1809 that this class of beverages had originated in Maryland, whose inhabitants 'were prone to make merry and get fuddled with mint-julep and apple-toddy.'...New York State novelistJames Fenimore Cooper attributed the invention of the 'co*ck-tail' to one Elizabeth 'Betty' Flanagan, a war widow who lived on the road from Sleepy Hollow...at the time of the American War...In his novel The Spy (1821), Cooper makes the real Flanagan a colorful character...Many other tales have been offered as how the the co*cktail acquired its name. The only common thread among them was that it was an Americaninvention. Recipes for co*cktails appeared in print starting in the early nineteenth century, although there were different views on the meaning of the word. The first definition appeared in 1806, when the editor of a New York magazine, The Balance, defined the co*cktail as 'a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters.'"
---Drinking History, Andrew F. Smith [Columbia University Press:New York] 2013(p.128-129)

"co*cktail. There are well over 50 theories as to the word co*cktail's origin, H.L. Mencken alone presenting seven plausible ones in his American Language. These include a derivation from the French coquetier, 'and egg cup,' in which the drink was supposedly first served in 1800; from coquetel, 'a mixed drink of the French Revolution period'; from co*cktailings, 'the last of several liquors mixed together'; and from a toast to that co*ck that after a co*ckfight had the most feathers left on its tail. Just as reliable as any of these guesses is the old folktale that Aztec King Axolotl VIII's daughter Octel or Xochitl concocted the first co*cktail; or, in another version, that an Aztec noble sent is emperor a drink made of cactus juice by his daughter, the emperor enjoying it so much that he married the girl and called the drink by her name--again Octel or Xochitl. According to this story, General Scott's soldiers are supposed to have brought the drink back to America centuries later. Suffice it to say that the origin of the word, first printed in 1806, is really unknown."
---Facts on File Encyclopedia of Word and Phrase Origins, Robert Hendrickson, 3rd edition [Facts on File:New York] 2004 (p. 162)

"The etymology of co*cktail has long engaged the learned, but without persuasive result. It is thus set forth by William Henry Nugent in co*ck Fighting Today, American Mercury, May 1929, p. 80: 'Feeding is an important thing in the process [of conditioning game-co*cks]. The old-time English and Irish trainers made a specially prepared bread of flour and stale beer or ale. They also added white wine or sack, gin, whiskey or other spirits, and a whole materia medica of seeds, plants, roots, barks, and leaves. In sampling this concoction before pouring it into the dough they found it an appetizing tonic, not only for pit flow, but also for man. They named it co*ck-bread ale or co*ck ale, and in the spelling of the time it became co*ck ail. Americans knew a variant of this beverage, as early as 1900, ad the co*cktail, Somehow a t had got into the mixture.' Early in 1926 in ,Le Figaro Hedomadiare (Paris) arguing that co*cktail was derived from coquetel, the name of a drink known for centuries in the vicinity of Bordeaux. See co*cktail French Invention, Baltimore Evening Sun Feb. 11, 1926."
---The American Language, H. L. Mencken, 4th edition corrected, enlarged and rewritten [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1974 (p. 149)

"Sir Edward's [McCubbin] treatise upon the co*cktail (it was privately printed in a limited deluxe edition and I have, I believe, the only copy in America) deals at great length with the origin of the name. He says that it was first applied to a drink in the middle of the eighteenth century. The first drink to bear it was a diabolic sort of concoction of beer and brandy much affected by the officers of the Second Regiment of Royal Sussex Fusiliers, in the British Army. The men of this regiment, because they wore plumes resembling rooster feathers in their caps, were commonly called 'the co*cktails' by the men of other regiments. The new drink, when it began to attain fame, took the name. No doubt much of this is true. I have seen several references to the Second Regiment's plumes in old newspapers of the period, and in at least one case the men are referred to as 'the co*cktails.' But as for the rest of Sir Edward's story, there is no proof whatever. His book contains no bibliography, and he doesn't mention his authorities, and when I wrote him several years ago, asking for information, I received a reply from his secretary stating that, on account of the infirmities of age, it was impossible for him to discuss the matter."
---"History of the co*cktail: Intellectual Bartender Recalls Duel That was Responsible<" Washington Post, December 20, 1908 (p. M2)

"J.A. of New Orleans writes, 'I recall reading many years ago (but made no note of it) that the co*cktail originated at an English function centuries ago when someone drank to a group of soldiers who wore co*ck tails in their hats. In giving the toast with a mixed drink he said, 'Here's to the co*ck tail.' Another theory, often quoted but regarded as dubious by some informed persons, is set forth in the book "Old New Orleans,' by Stanley Arthur (published by Harmanson). In 1793, a young Frenchman, A.A. Peychaud, and his sister Lauthenie fled to New Orleans to escape an uprising on the island of San Domingo. He established an apothecary shop at 437 Royal St. Peychaud possessed a formula for making a remarkable tonic called 'bitters.' It was Peychaud's custom to serve the dram of cognac and bitters in one end of an old-fashioned double-ended eggcup. The French word for eggcup is 'coquetier,' pronounced: kaw-kuh-TYAY,' The new drink soon became known as 'coquetier,' and the pronunciation was corrupted by non-French-speaking persons to 'co*ck-tay.' It is thought that, in the slurred speech of those who had drunk too many of M. Peychaud's coquetiers, the word became further corrupted to 'co*cktail,' which, early in the 1800s, came to be accepted as the official name of the drink."
---"Many Theories Offered on Origin of 'co*cktail,' Frank Colby, Los Angeles Times, April 3, 1949 (p. A5)

The first American co*cktail?
"Believe it or not, the co*cktail is an American innovation as well as a currently popular institution. Originator of the co*cktail was one Betsy Flanagan, who owned and operated a tavern during Revolutionary times near Yonkers. The Hotel Roosevelt, which is introducing the Betsy Flanagan co*cktail for the first time with the same ingredients the tavern proprietress used, is holding a Betsy Flanagan co*cktail party at its bar today from four p.m. to closing. The historical origin of the American co*cktail will be depicted in authentic revolutionary costumes."
---"Origin of the American co*cktail," Wall Street Journal, November 22, 1935 (p. 2)

The first modern American co*cktail?
This account, circa 1908, flatly states the co*cktail was created in Marlyand April 17, 1846. Details are stunning.

"'The co*cktail,' said an intellectual Baltimore street bartender the other day, 'Is a distinctively American invention. True enough the name originated in England and was there applied to mixtures as early as the time of Dr. Johnson; but the true co*cktail, as every patriotic American knows it to-day, was invented in the State of Maryland on April 17, 1846...'The great alcoholic statistician, and genealogist, Prof. Ferdinand Braun, of Halle, insists that the co*cktail was invented in the Middle Ages by Wolfram von Spiegeleisen, the minnesinger, who is best known to fame as the discoverer of yodling. Braun devotes a whole chapter in his mammoth work 'Die Alkoholismus,' to the demonstration of his theory, and quotes 100 forgotten books and manuscripts, but his argument for all that is ridiculous. 'As a matter of fact, whisky and gin were entirely unknown to the human race until toward the middle of the seventeenth century, and a co*cktail without whisky or gin, as everyone knows, would not be a co*cktail at all. 'On Braun's own showing the drink that Spiefelesen invented was a sort of cheap brandy punch, made of Bordeaux brandy, nutmeg and sugar. One might conceivably call this drink a flip, but it was in no sense a co*cktail...'The Smithsonian Institution, in a somewhat elaborate report upon heavy drinking customs in the United States, says that the co*cktail was invented in London in 1834 and introduced into this country, by way of New York, the year after. The University of Chicago, in a later work upon the same subject, repeats this error. 'That this is an error is shown by the diary of Herman Smith, published by the Falstaff Society in 1884. Smith was employed as head bartender at various New York hotels during the period 1832-1840, and later became superintendent of the wine cellars at Delmonico's. He kept an elaborate diary from 1832 to 1838, in which he noted down innumerable facts and happenings of interest to students of alcoholiania... In his book Dr Edward [McCubbin] admits freely that there is nothing in common between the co*cktail of to-day and the horrible mess swallowed by the officers of the Second Fusiliers.

"He seems to hold that the modern co*cktail was invented was invented in 1836 by George Brooks, proprietor of the famous Brooks Club, in London. Again his authorities do not appear, and again, I doubt that he is true. As a matter of fact, Brooks was not a bartender at all, but a fishmonger, and his club was noted less forits wet goods than for its gambling tables, through its wine cellar at one time was very extensive...Sir Edward says that when Brooks perfected the new drink he was at a loss for a name for it, and that 'co*cktail' was suggested by Colonel William de Forrest, of the British Army, who had served in the Second Fusilliers years before and recalled the old brandy-and-beer co*cktails. Colonel De Forrest, he says, as a celebrated bonvivant of the period, and spent much of this time at Brooks's Club. Chiefly as a matter of idle curiosity, I recently communicated with the British War Office regarding this Colonel De Forrest. What was my surprise tolearn that he was killed on July 18, 1831...This you will note, convicts Sir Edward of a serious error, for he says that De Forrest named the co*cktail in 1836... Meanwhile, you are probably recalling my statement that the modern co*cktail was invented in 1846, and wondering how I will prove it. Attacking the subject in the scientific manner, we find that it breaks up into definite questions, to-wit:
1. When was the co*cktail invented?
2. By whom?
3. Where?
4. Who were present?
5. Who drank the first co*cktail?
6. Who gave it its name?
My answers to these questions are as follows, viz.:
1. On the 17th of April, 1846, at 8:15 a.m.
2. By John Welby Henderson, a native of North Carolina
3. At the old Palo Alto Hotel, at Bladensburg, Md.
4. Colonel William Mattingly, member of Congress from Geortia and Mssrs. John A. Hopkins, beside the aforesaid Henderson.
5. John A, Hopkins, of Fairfax Va.
6. I don't know.
The story is an interesing one, and as it has come to me, bit by bit, out of the dim limbo of the past. It has entralled me like some medieval romance. Bladensurg, in those days, was a place of spirited combats and heavy dirnking. The old duelign grouns were still in use, and almost daily a party of gentelmen--members of Congress, diplomats or high officials--would come to settle some affair of honor...The party rode in two groups, oen of which contained seven and the other five. In the first tgroup were the Baron Henri de Vrie et Chellono, an attache of the French Legation; his fellow-diplomat, Chevalier Luitgi Lugno, representative of King of the Two Sisilies; Messrs. Jones, Lorrimore and Burton, members of the lower house of Congress, and Drs. John Maloen and Guilford Galloway of the Army Medical Corps. In the second group were Mr. Hopkins, Colonel Maglone and Messrs. Mattingly, Benson and Alison. As you have, no doubt suspected ere this it was a dueling party. Baron Challono and Mr. Hopkins were the principals and Chevalier Lugno and Colonel Maglone were their seconds. The cause of the different I have never learned, but it was a gentleman's fight and it was to be conducted in a gentlemanly manner. Shortly after 9 o'clock the 12 men reached the Palo Alto Hotel and there enjoyed an excellent supper. At 10 o'clock, after coutreous good-nights, they retired to their chambers. At daylight, next morning they were awake and ready for the journey to the dueling ground, a few hundred yards away. The chronicles are obscure as to what happened on the field, but I rather judge that Baron Challono was badly wounded. At any rate, he required the services of both surgeons for more than two hours, and the ground where he fell was drenched with blood. His courtly adversary, Mr. Hopkins, rushed to his side as soon as he fell. Mr. Hopkins, it appears, was a man of delicate perceptions in spiteof his intrepid daring, and the sight of the Baron's gushing blood made him ill. As a result, through he was not scratched himself, he staggered and seemed about tofaint. His second, Colonel Maglone, and the other gentleman rushed to his side atn took him off at once to the Palo Alto. Once there they conducted him to the old taproom andcalled upon Jack Henderson who was on watch behind the bar, to set up something stimulating at once. Jack a manof resource, saw that something unusally tempting and powerul wasneeded. Grabbing up a champagne glass he filled it half full of good old Maryland ryeand then seizing a bottle of bitters he heaved in a few drips. As he stirred up the mixtureof bottle of sirup caught is eye, and he pt in a swig. Then he pushed the mixture forward--and thie first Manhattan co*cktail in the world was born. Mr. Hopkins seized the glass, poured down the liquor and at once recovered. Another! he dreied, enchanged. Jack made a second one with more care, and, seized by a hap[py thoguth, dropped a brandied cherry into it. Mr. Hopins gulped it down and then insisted that his friends try the new drink. They were charmed, as one might be expected, and when they sat down to breakfast a half an hourafter they were all in high, good humour. Colonel Magione, who was a celebrated connoisseur of wet goods, saw at once that themoment had been an historic one, and soon after caused to be inserted in the old National Intelligencer, a newspaper of the day, and account of the new drink. He proposed thatit be called Royal Jack, in honor of Jack Hnderson, its inventor, but somehow the old name of co*cktail became attached to it and the co*cktail it as been ever since.The generlemen who were actually present when the first co*cktail was compounded and swallowed were Mr. Hopkins, Colonel Maglone, Mr. Benson and Mr. Allison, with Jack Henderson behind the bar. A few years later, after the new drink had attained world-wide repute, Colonel Maglone employed a Washington aretist named TomothyPollard to make a darawing of the scene...The co*cktail spread throughout the wold like some genial pestilence, and by 1850, four years after its invention, it was a vafoute dirnkin all parts of the United States. It was known, too, in England, and Thackakeray mentioned it in 'The Newcomes; written in 1854. Two years before that our own NathanielHawthorne had immortailzed it in 'The Blithedale Romance.' Many other authors have referred to it in their works. Even Walter Pater, purist that he was, has given it a complimentary notice of a few lines. The late Lord Tennyson, it is said, left a manuscript sonnet to the co*cktail, but his family deemed it inadvisable to include it in the definativeedition of his works. Kipling, Conan Dye, Zangwill and other later writers have referered to it often...Ibsen, as it is well known, drank four co*cktails a day during the last 30 years of his life, and ascribed his good health to their virtues. Tolstoi is generally supposed to be a teetotlar, but a recent biographer asserts that he frequently takes a Manhattan co*cktail before dinner."
---"History of the co*cktail: Intellectual Bartender Recalls Duel That was Responsible," Washington Post, December 20, 1908 (p. M2)

The first co*cktail manual?
The first co*cktail manual was published in America. "Professor" Jerry Thomas' The Bar-Tender’s Guide or How to Mix Drinks came out in 1862. Thomas himself was bartender, among other professions, with a penchant for showmanship. You can read more about him David Wondrich's book Imbibe!: From Absinthe co*cktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to "Professor" Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar Featuring the Original Formulae (2007, updated in 2015). Thomas' book, though, was the first of its kind and reflects early co*cktail history. Today, access to ingredients allows the home bartender to devise syrups, bitters, and craft co*cktails--and if you aren't feeling creative yourself, you can buy ingredients ready-made. In the 1860s, co*cktails were not something the average person would make a home--rather, they were something you would go acquire in a bar or saloon by a professional--or at least someone who had access to more unique ingredients like Boker's bitters, pineapple syrup, or even ice. Thomas' guide was intended not for the everyday consumer of co*cktails, but the professional behind the bar, and it opens with tips and hints. The book includes variations on early classifications of co*cktails (things like daisies, flips, cups, cobblers, and juleps, and a large number of punches), as well as some of the earliest "named" co*cktails, like the Jersey co*cktail, the Japanese co*cktail, the Manhattan co*cktail, the Martinez co*cktail (in which you might see the origins of the Martini), and more. Places were often, but not always, the inspiration for early named drinks. In cases where it wasn't, sometimes we know the story (as with Thomas' own creation of the Japanese co*cktail), sometimes we may not (see the "Saratoga Brace Up"), and sometimes there is a great story that may not actually be true (Thomas, for example, tried to take credit for the "Tom and Jerry," and while his version of its origin is entertaining, the egg-nog like drink pre-dates his professional career as a bartender). In addition, the 1862 edition had recipes for ingredients like bitters, tinctures, colorings, and syrups, as well as for non-alcholic beverages.

You can read The Bar-Tender's Guide or How to Mix Drinks (and try his recipes yourself, in our modern age with wider access to ingredients) online. Also, be sure to check out his decorative drink garnishes!

By the late 19th and into the early 20th centuries, bartending schools became popular--places where aspiring showmen (and show-women) could learn the art of crafting drinks. Schools often had manuals of their own for their students, chock full of hints, rules, tips, tricks, and tools that would make one stand out. Our holdings at Virginia Tech include two such digitized manuals from the Los Angeles Bartending School in the 1930s/1940s. (We also have one from Houston!) These include a "secret" for students: the so-called "tropical recipes," which were actually recipes from the early days of what would later be considered "Tiki" drinks after World War II (they actaully began appeared in the early 1930s).

Happy hour
Who introduced Happy Hour & when? Interesting question because, like most foods & meals, "Happy hour" was not invented. Itevolved. The term "Happy Hour" precedes the current USA definition (discount co*cktails served in foodservice establishments for a designated period of time) by about 30 years. The US Navy designated Happy Hours in World War II. These were R&R periods whichmay (or may not) have included alcoholic beverages. The nautical venue, presumably a continuation of practice from retiredsailors, prevailed in early accounts. Happy Hours surface after WWII, took hold in the 1950s and flourished in the 1960s. In the 1980s therewas major concern about the relationship between Happy Hours to drunk driving. Some states enacted laws prohibiting Happy Hour practices.

The earliest print reference we found for "Happy Hour" dates to 1907. It involves alcoholic beverages but was a solo event.The term "Happy Hour" has also been use to name for restaurants, cafes, night clubs, theaters, aprons, canned foods, dance halls, newsies gatherings, high society social clubs and a poem. We have no clue if those patrons tippled during saidhappy hour.

General definition
"Happy hour. n.
1. Navy. a scheduled period for entertainment and refreshments on shipboard. 1920. Belknap Yankee Mining sq. 52 [ref. to 1918]: Boxing and wrestling were taken up by the individual ships and, generally speaking, one evening each week was given over to 'happy hours,' for bouts in the ring and on the mat...1945 in J. Utley Amer. Battleship 133: U.S.S. Tennessee Happy Hour in Japan. Monday Oct. 1st at 1400. 1946 Heggen Mr. Roberts 137: The crew held a 'Happy Hour,' devoted almost entirely to skits on the broadest and most animalistic sort... 2. a time, usu. in the late afternoon, when a bar lowers the price of drinks or serves free snacks. Now colloq."
---Random House Historical Dictionary of American Slang, J.E. Lighter, editor, Volume II [Random House:New York] 1997 (p. 28)

[1907]
"Hobo Nelman is in jail, but he neither murmurs nor repines. Neither present restraint nor prospect of future punishment can take away form him the gorgeous memories of the halcyon hours that he spent in a box car at Imperial junction. Hobo Nelman blew in on a desert breeze in the night and sought a place to lay his frowzy head. He found it in a freight-car, but did not take advantage of it. Instead he gave his attention to boxes and cases. He went through these with skill, piling into a basket a dozen pairs of ladies shoes two dozen lovely kimonos, embroidered jackets and other feminine apparel and prepared to go on his way rejoicefully. But first he took another look around to make sure that he had not neglected his opportunities and just for luck, he broke open another case. Then he almost fainted, recalling how near he had been to making the mistake of his life. A bottle of Burgundy sluced the desert dust from his throat, and two more only stimulated his thirst. Half a dozen quarts of old California port a 'chaser' of apricot brandy (a quart) put him into just the right condition that completed the assortment in the case. When Detective Howler looked into the car, the case was empty, but Hobo Nelman obviously was not. He as arrived in a red kimono dotted with golden butterflies and as sleeping with his head pillowed upon a pack of plunder and with a champagne bottle lovingly to his heart. Now he is in jail, but a yet he is neither sober or sorry. A 'jag' like that lasts surprisingly and the memory of never fades."
---"Sweet Memories of Happy Hour," Los Angeles Times, December 24, 1907 (p. I19)

[1914]
"The 'Happy Hour' on board the U.S.S. Arkansas is setting a record for contentment of the crew in the Atlantic fleet now in the harbor.The happy hour is really several hours set apart three nights a week for entertainment of the crew, both officers and men, while the shipis at sea. The entertainment consists of moving pictures, boxing bouts, chorus singing of popular songs and dramatics fromvaudeville to tragedy and the tango."
---"'Happy Hour' Aboard Ship Makes U.S. Tars Contented, The Day Book [Chicago IL] May 8, 1914 (p. 13)

[1951]
"And, if you think people have lost their price consciousness, you ought to see the stampede at a Valley tavern during its 'Happy Hour' from 5 to 6 p.m. when all drinks are 25 cents."
---"A Little At A Time," Art Ryon, Los Angeles Times, November 26, 1951 (p. A5)

[1957]
"Among 18 Americans who wintered at the South Pole, the older men stood up better than the young ones...Their operation started Feb. 12, 1957...Strangely, Dr. Taylor found, the men appreciated cold drinks, particularly iced tea, no matter how low the thermometer went. Ice cream was a popular dessert. They were allowed whisky and brandy during a 'happy hour' each Saturday night. There was no official restriction but the per capita consumption of alcohol was only 4 to 6 ounces a month. Beer, which was routinely available, was acceptable mainly as a thirst quencher."
---"Older Men Fare Best at 50 below, Winter at South Pole Discloses," Rennie Taylor, Washington Post, November 30, 1957 (p. A1)

[1959]
"A series of Happy Hours in the homes of members of the Santa Ana Auxiliary of the Children's Home Society preceded the Camellia Ball at the Santa Ana Country Club last week end. A black tie affair, the ball was staged as a fund-raising project to further the work of the Children's Home Society, California licensed adoption agency, and was acclaimed a success...Before-the-Ball co*cktails were served in the home of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Kinwald."
---"'Happy Hours' Get Camellia Ball off to Glittering Start, Virginia Reagan, Los Angeles Times, March 15, 1959 (p. OC_A22)
[NOTE: There were several "Happy Hour" co*cktail parties held in members' homes preceding this event.]

"The most dramatic spectacle of our time, with the possible exception of the explosion of a hydrogen bomb, is the sight of a long-range missile blasting off its launching pad at Cape Canaveral. Relatively few men, though, have seen a sight that is almost as spectacular--the flight of a missile in mid-course...Those who do witness these scalp-tingling displays are a few Air Force officers and men, and the 1500 employees of Pan American World Airways and the Radio Corporation of America, who work 'down range' manning the tracking stations and picket ships that stretch southward for 5000 miles...It is this isolation--and this peace--that many of them come to find. Weary of what they describe profanely as that 'damned rat race back home,' they came seeking a place where a man, without neglecting his job, can still find time to fish and swim and putter with his hobbies...Except for those who spend too much during 'happy hour' at the bar--and there are a few of these--the money mounts up fast."
---"The Men Who Chase Missiles, Harold H. Martin, Saturday Evening Post, April 25, 1959 (p. 23-25)

[1960]
"Cargo-passenger ships...vary among themselves. Some are deluxe in accommodations...Others have plain staterooms and simple fare. They are all equipped, however, for a happy holiday...The food is hearty, well-prepared and varied enough so that only steak (Saturday nights) and prime rim (on Sunday) showed up on the menu more than once in a sixteen-day trip we took. It started out a fifteen-day voyage but because cargo governs everything, the Junior made an unscheduled stop at Norfolk to pick up supplies for the United States Naval Base at Guantanamo Cuba. As it turned out the stop at the Cuban base was the highlight of the voyage. Tourists are a rarity at that highly restricted military reservation on the south shore of the island. The military greeting was warm, and almost as if it had been planned that way. Our arrival coincided with 'Happy Hour' at the officers' club. Drinks were 10 cents apiece, the food was excellent and everyone on the base who was not busy seemed to find time to try and chat with the passengers."
---"Banana Boat Cruise a Passport to Relaxation," Joseph C. Ingraham, New York Times, January 24, 1960 (p. XX30)

[1961]
"Because you cannot win a race every day, food is one of the most important diversion on a sailing vessel. This is the observation of William Smith, the rugged and tanned skipper of Figaro III...Companionable though a boat may be, it is also confining, and after several days under sail the members of the crew may tend to become 'edgy.' To mollify, if not obviate such an eventuality, Mr. Smith has devised a 'happy hour' beginning at five o'clock each afternoon when the boat is under way. Then fruit juice coolers, lightly spiked with rum or bourbon, are served. 'It relaxes the tension and allows time for jokes,' Mr. Smith said. Other than that, most drinking is discouraged aboard Figaro III. Beer is carried aboard for short races."
---"Boat's Crew Delights at Turn in the Galley," Craig Claiborne, New York Times, June 1, 1961 (p. 38)

[1964]
"You know how many restaurants and co*cktail lounges reduce the price of drinks during what they wont to call 'the Happy Hour,' usually from 4 to 6 p.m.? Well, the Dover House, at the top of Restaurant Row on La Ciegna doesn't reduce prices but increases size. From 4 to 6 p.m., it serves what it calls 'Bird Bath' Martinis and Manhattans in big, 6 oz. glasses...And it's astonishing the breweries haven't leaped on this."
---"Roundabout...with Art Ryon," Los Angeles Times, February 24, 1964 (p. C13)

[1965]
"co*cktails 50 cents each at our Happy Hour, 3-6 p.m. daily."
---display ad, Bruno's Restaurant, No. Easton MA, Jewish Advocate, January 21, 1965 (p. A7)

"What these restaurateurs won't think of! Now, the Pepper Milll Steak House is Pasadena has a double 'Happy Hour.' Double drinks are served at regular prices from 4 to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday. Then, there's another 'Happy Hour' (doubles) from 10:30 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. The idea is that you can enjoy the first 'Happy Hour' and then settle down to a steak until the second one rolls around."
---"Roundabout...with Art Ryon," Los Angeles Times, June 2, 1965 (p. 28)

"The pre-dinner co*cktail has been made even more delightful by gracious hospitality and fine music at Kutcher's Country Club here. The hospitality is evidenced by generous hors d'oeuvres, king-sized drinks and fine music provided by Sonni Rossi, Hal Fields, Bey Perry and the Gullivers Travlelers Go Go Band. The Happy Hour takes place each afternoon from 6:15 p.m. to 7:15 p.m. in the beautify new co*cktail lounge adjacent to the Kutsher dining room."
---"Happy Hour Catches on at Kutcher's," Jewish Advocate, August 5, 1965 (p. 7)

[1984]
"Drinkers mourned the death of the happy hour today, the last workday before Massachusetts bans bars from luring in customers with cut-rate co*cktails. But tavern managers said they won't miss the after-work drinking promotions. New regulations outlawing liquor promotions such as two-for-one specials and chug-a-lug contests take effect Monday throughout the state as part of a campaign against drunken driving...A few bars and restaurants have advertised last-chance happy hours, but most said they planned to pass the final weekend without fanfare."
---"Massathusetts' Happy Hour Ban Begins in Sorrow, Washington Post, December 8, 1984 (p. A3)

[1989]
"The perception of happy hour as a time for the rapid guzzling of discounted co*cktails has dogged the restaurant industry, particularly in recent years when increased emphasis has been placed on liability for drunken driving. Happy hour promotions, such as two-for-one deals or discounts on particular drinks, have been denounced by such groups as Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD), who maintain that such practices encourage excessive drinking...'There's been a move away from price-oriented happy hours,' said Stan Kyker, the executive vice president of the California Restaurant Assn 'Now food-oriented happy hours are the more typical approach. Instead of offering discounted drinks, restaurants are saying 'Come in between 4 and 6 and enjoy our happy hour buffet.'' Kyker said the gradual change has not come about because of pressure from any governmental or legislative group, but is seen as 'a way to increase traffic. That's what happy hour is intended to do. It's not intended to increase the consumption of alcohol by individuals...There are no laws governing happy hour practices in California, and the last time such legislation was proposed, in 1985, it was defeated in committee...Such a law would not be unique in the United States. At least 14 other states, including Massachusetts, Ohio and Michigan, have either banned or tightened regulation of happy hours."
---"Criticisms Change Happy Hour's Focus," Patrick Mott, Los Angeles Times, March 16, 1989 (p. OC-F1)

What were "cordials?"
Cordials, also known as cordial waters, were medicinal tonics concocted at home for "what ails you." Recipes vary, though mostare fruit flavored.

"Cordial. Whether adjective or noun, is derived from the Latin word for the heart, "cor." As a noun, it may mean a medicine, or medicinal food or drink, with the property of stimulating the heart and therefore the circulation. The term came also to mean a fruitsyrup or concentrated and sweetened fruit-based beverage, presumably because it was believed that a preparation of this sort wouldhave this effect. This sense of the word dates back to medieval times...Reference to cordials were far more frequent 100 eyars agothan now, and the sense of the term far wider."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2nd edition, 2006 (p. 216)

"Cordials, sometimes referred to as liqueurs...are made from distilled spirits flavored with fruits, herbs, spices, or other botanicals;they are sweetened with sugar, honey or other agents and diluted with wine, ater, or other liquids bearing less alcohol thanspirits. Coridal are one of the earliest forms of distilled beverages and frequently were used as medicines, since it was believed thatthe curative properties of certain herbs could be preserved in spirits...Early cordials were used both as potable medicines andas liquid ointments for bathing wounds."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New YOrk] 2004, volume 1 (p. 339)

Related beverages: punch, shrub & switchel.

Diet soda
Unflavored, unsweeted, no-cal carbonated water products [soda water and tonic water] have been consumed from the earliest daysof soda fountains. Soda water and tonic water were generally mixed with other ingredients (sweet syrups, liqueurs, ice cream) forflavor. These products were initially promoted as health drinks. Especially as alternatives to *demon* alcohol. By the 1880s,sweentened carbonated beverages became a product in their own right. Think: Dr. Pepper and Coca Cola.

Artificially sweetened low-calorie carbonated beverages first surface in the 1950s. The earliest products were promoted todiabetics and dieters searching for sugar-free alternatives. Kirsch introduced No-Cal 1952, selling theproduct in selected NYC diet food stores. One year later, several major beverage companies penetrated the sugar-free carbonated drink market. By the early 1960s dozens of companies were competing for supermarket shelf-space. Coca Cola and Pepsi were not leaders, but followers. This new diet drinkwas not embraced without challenge. Huge salesand high public demand helped companiesovercome federal and state government regulations forbidding the use of artificial sweeteners in carbonated beverages. The reason behind the regulations are not addressed (protect the sugar industry? health concerns?). Diet sodas are challenged today for health reasons.

The Wall Street Journal reported the first results of the diet soda industry: "The collective summer thirst of Americans in all parts of the country is also boosting sales of some relativenewcomers to the carbonated market--quinine water, now used chiefly as a mixer for 'gin and tonic,' and low-calorie soft drinks, for peoplewho want to watch their waistlines. The latter drinks, sweetened with a chemical sugar-substitute, do not loom large in proportion to the total soda pop sales, but they're coming up fast, bottlers report. This year's low-calorie drink sales, nationally,are expected to run between 6 and 12 million cases. 'That's a drop in the bucket, compared with the total soft drink market...But then, a rise from nothing to 12 million cases, for a brand new type of product in one year, is something you can't laugh off.'"---
"Soda Pop Surge: Bottlers Expect 1953 Sales of Fizzy Drinks to Set a New Record," Wall Street Journal, July 15, 1953 (p. 1)

[1952]
NO-CAL (KIRSCH)

Records of the US Patent & Trademark Office confirm Kirsh No-Cal soft drink was introduced to the American public March 3, 1952. The earliest ad we find was published in the New York Times touted:"No-Cal...Turning the town upside down! Absolutely non-fatteneng. Ginger Ale-Cola-Cream Soda-Black Cherry-Root Beer. Everybody'swild about the lively taste of No-Cal. No-Cal means no calories, No trace of sugar whatsoever, All the flavor is in-all of the sugar is out, Three full glasses to each 16 oz. bottle, Perfect as an extra-dry mixer. Insist on No-Cal, the original non-fatteningsoft drink with the revolutionary new sweetening discovery. Made only by Kirsch, famous for over 50 years for qualitybeverages. Buy 16 oz. bottles, 2 for 29 cents, no deposit. Thrills Your Taste!...Trims Your Waist!" (April 7, 1953 p. 15)

"To Hyman Kirsch, Simferopol in Russia's Crimea seems no further from Brooklyn than No-Cal is from the soft drink syrups he compounded there before the turn of the century. No-Cal is a soft drink brand which is described as the fastest growing in its field...No-Cal is made in a half-dozen flavors, none of which contains sugar...DevisingNo-Cal came from a kindly thought. When Hyman Kirsch came from Simferopol to Brooklyn in 1903 he prospered in the manufacture of ginger ale and soda opo. By the timehe became a vice president of the Jewish Sanitarium for Chronic Disease is on Morris had joined him in the business in 1923 and became later a director of thesanitarium. Both of them were worried about the number of diabetics in the home who could find no sugar-free, non-alcoholic beverage. They got together in their ownlaboratories with Dr. S.S. Epstein, their research man, and explored the field of synthetic sweeteners. Saccharin and other chemical sweeteners left a metallic aftertasted.Then, from a commercial laboratory, they got cyclamate calcium, and No-Cal was accepted by the diabetic and those with cardio-vascular illnesses who could nottolerate salts in the sanitarium. The drink was introduced modestly in the New York market, chiefly on dietict counters. But there were more sales than there were dieters. A survey by Grey Advertising Agency, Inc., which has the account, revealed that only half the buyers of No-Cal were on a diet. So the campaign was aimedat the girth-conscious men and women: the budget was quintupled...and No-Cal was off."---"News of Advertising and Marketing Fields," J.S., New York Times, July 26, 1953 (p. F8)

[1953]
DIET-RITE (NEHI/ROYAL CROWN) & COTT SUGAR FREE BEVERAGES

According to the records of the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office, Diet-Rite low calorie beverage was introduced to theAmerican public by Nehi, December 22, 1953:

"Word Mark DIET-RITE Goods and Services IC 005. US 045. G & S: DIETETIC SOFT DRINKS AND CONCENTRATES FOR MAKING THE SAME. FIRST USE: 19531222. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19531222 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 71659080 Filing Date January 6, 1954 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Change In Registration CHANGE IN REGISTRATION HAS OCCURRED Registration Number 0600085 Registration Date December 28, 1954 Owner (REGISTRANT) NEHI CORPORATION CORPORATION DELAWARE 10TH STREET AND 9TH AVE. COLUMBUS GEORGIA (LAST LISTED OWNER) ROYAL CROWN COMPANY, INC. CORPORATION BY CHANGE OF NAME FROM DELAWARE 900 King Street Rye Brook NEW YORK 10573 Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED Attorney of Record Daniel Chung, Esq. Type of Mark TRADEMARK Register PRINCIPAL Affidavit Text SECT 15. SECTION 8(10-YR) 20050110. Renewal 3RD RENEWAL 20050110 Live/Dead Indicator LIVE"

"Nehi Corp., a widely diversified soft drink maker...has entrenched its Royal Crown Cola in several key markets, particularly in the South. It has also developed low calorie drinks under the label Diet Rite,"
---"Abreast of the Market," Wall Street Journal, August 3, 1956 (p. 15)

"Refreshing Royal Crown Beverages in handy cans...Diet Cola...3 12 oz cans, 29 cents."
---display ad, Chicago Tribune, August 9, 1956 (p. N7)

"The popularity of Diet-Rite Cola, which was introduced in Chicago more than a hear ago, has inspired Nehi Royal Crown corporation to increase its line of sugar-free carbonated drinks by adding three delicious new flavors--Diet-Rite Lime-Lemon, Diet-Rite Orange, and Diet-Rite Strawberry. As is the case with Diet-Rite Cola, each large half-quart bottle of the newcomers contains less than three calories, the Royal Crown people tell us. Ths certainly should be welcome news for weight watchers and dieters. Besides, the new drinks are so delightful in taste, full of zest, and naturally good that they should appeal to children as well as adults...The economically-priced Diet-Rite drinks, which come in tall, slim returnable bottles, are available in a rainbow Pak of six bottles, two of each flavor. Or, if you prefer, you can mix and match to make up a carton of your own selection."
---"'Round the Food Stores: For a Look at the Latest Ideas," Lois Baker, Chicago Daily Tribune, February 8, 1963 (p. B8)

"Drink gingerale without adding pounds. And root beer, cream soda and cola too, for that matter, That's the beauty of a new line ofsugar-free beverages, introduced on the market this week by Cott Co. Absolutely non-fattening, the six different flavors taste just like the calorie-heavy kind. At supermarkets and chain stores."
---"Out, Pesky Tarnish...," Dorothea Pattee, Washington Post, May 10, 1953 (p. S11)

"Now available...non-fattening in six naturally wonderful flavors. Not one bit fattening! Yet delicios flavor-quality, in all 6 popular flavors. That's Cott Sugar-Free beverages! You know Cott quality, from Cott beverages with sugar...Now you can enjoy this same famous quality, but ALL FLAVOR...NO SUGAR!...No fear of adding weight, or breaking your diet. Cott quality may cost a little more, but you know why at first TASTE. Now--enjoy yourslef, with these delicious new dietetic treats."
---display ad,Washington Post, May 22, 1953 (p. 17).
[NOTE: flavors listed in this ad are: Pale Dry Ginger, Concord Delite, Root Beer, Cola, Cream Soda & Raspberry.]

"The so-called dietetick or nonfattening, drinks have sprung up in considerable numbers during the past year. They're marketedprimarily by their substitution of an artficial sweetener for sugar, and they're sold mostly in fruit flavors. Most brands are marketedin no-return bottles...retailing at 15 cents each. Though saccharin-sweetened drinks have been tried with more or less success for many years, today's types of dietetics first got rolling in New York and New England markets in early 1952. Most of them use calcium cyclamate, produced by Abbott Laboratories, North Chicago, under the name 'Sucaryl.' KirschBeverages, Inc., Brooklyn N.Y., with its 'No-Cal',' and Cott Beverage Corp., New Haven Conn., with 'Cott Low CalorieBeverages,' are among pioneers in the field. John J. Cott, president, says his firm will turn out 2.5 million cases of low-caloriedrinks this year, and expects to increase that by more than 10% next year. Within a month, Cott will introduce in Connecticut anew 26-ounce 'family size' low-calorie drink. It will retail for 25 cents in a no-return bottle. Kirsch Beverages refuses to givecase figures, but Morris Kirsch, president, says his 'No-Cal' business in two years has spurted well ahead of its 50-year-oldregular soft drink line. Tested in five new markets this year, No-Cal will be marketed in '30 or 40 cities' next year...All the dietetics are still encountering difficulty with some state food laws that ban artificially-sweetened soft drinks. Cott iscurently engaged in litigation in Pennsylvania to open that state's markets to its low-calorie line."
---"Soda Pop: Soft Drink Companies Step Up Tests of Cans, Bigger Bottle Sizes," Doyle Smee and Kenneth Smith, Wall Street Journal, November 22, 1954 (p. 1)

[1963]
PATIO DIET COLA (PEPSI) & TAB (COCA-COLA)

"The nation's calorie-counting citizens have suddenly seemed to capture the attention of the major soft drink producers. Both Coca-Cola and Pepsi Cola this week have put two major new low-calorie soft drink products into test markets, and the other new products are in the offing. Pepsi-Cola Company is testing its new drink, Patio Diet Cola, in Greenville, S.C., and seems to be beaming its campaign mainly at the feminine market...If all goes well, Pepsi-Cola will move its new product into Philadelphia and Pennsauken, N.J., early in March for additional testing. Meanwhile, Pepsi's arch rival, Coca-Cola, has low calorie plans of its own. The company has started testing a sugarless soft drink called Tab in Springfield, Mass. Tab tastes very much like Coca-Cola, officials say, it contains only 2 calories in each 12-ounce bottle...J. Paul Austin, president of Coca-Cola, notes that low-calorie soft drinks have not as yet proved popular among the steady consumers of soft drinks. But, in his view, introduction of Tab might open the way to a new market that has not as yet been fully exploited by soft drink companies."
---"Advertising: Low-Calorie Soft Drinks," Peter Bart, New York Times, Feburary 20, 1963 (p. 18).

LO LO (HOFFMAN BEVERAGE)

According to the records of the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office Lo Lo brand diet soda was introduced by the Hoffman Beverage Company February 11, 1963:

"...[Hoffman Beverage Company] was independetly owned until December, 1945, when the Pabst Brewing Company acquired it. Pabst sold it in 1961 to a group headed by Mr. Sealfon...While a subsidiary of Pabst, the company in 1954 introduced "Tap-A-Cola" in a 12-ounce flat-top can. It was the second company to can a cola but the first to bring it out in a flat-top container. A year before, C & C Super Cola Corporation packaged cola in a conical-top can. In 1963, while under the direction of the Sealfon group, Hoffman introduced Lo-Lo Cola, a dietitic drink. It is best known for club soda, ginger ale and a complete line of flavored sodas sold in bottles or cans."
---"Beverage Maker Seeks Court Help: Hoffman Asks Arrangement Under Bankruptcy Act," Clare M. Reckert, New York Times, September 22, 1964 (p. 55)

Need more information? "Sweet Nothing, the Triumph of Diet Soda",Benjamin Seigel, [American Heritage].

Related beverage? Carnation Instant Breakfast.

Iced coffee
Which came fist iced tea or iced coffee? Excellent question with two possible answers. Happy to elaborate. Iced tea/coffee, as we Americans know them today are cold, refreshing beverages. In this quaffable form, iced tea precedes iced coffee. The phrase "iced coffee" precedes that of cousin tea by at least a decade. A closer examination of primary sources (cookbooks/newspapers) confirms the earliest references to "iced coffee" are for solid frosty confections similar to coffee ice cream or granita. So? The answer to this particular bar bet depends on whether you mean first print reference (iced coffee) or oldest evidence of the beverages we know them today (iced tea). Either way, the topic makes for some interesting conversation on a hot summer day.

The earliest print references we find to "iced coffee" describe a granita or iced cream type product. The earliest USA reference we find for "iced coffee," meaning a cold beverage, is 1887.

[1857]"It is now 1 o'clock, the Court has retired--we will take one more dance...and cool of with an iced coffee and a glass of champagne (not a bad mixture) and go home."
---"Paris Gossip," New York Times, February 21, 1857 (p. 2)

[1869]
"Iced Coffee.
Mix 1/2 pint of strong coffee in a basin, with 3 pints of scalded double cream, and 1 pint of syrup at 35 degrees F.; Strain the coffee, through a silk sieve, into a freezing-pot set in ice; Let it freeze for an hour; detach the frozen cream adhering to the pot; and serve the coffee in sorbet glasses."
---The Royal Cookery Book, Jules Gouffe, translated from the French and Adapted for English Use by Alphonse Gouffe [Sampson Low, Son, and Marston:London] 1869 (p. 565)

[1886]
"Frozen Coffee

1 quart of water
4 heaping tablespoonfuls of ground coffee
1/2 pound of sugar
The coffee should be ground very fine, then put in a farina boiler. Add one quart of freshly boiled water, and steep for fifteen minutes, then strain through a very fine muslin, add the sugar, and stir until dissolved. Turn into the freezer, add one tablespoonful of the white of egg, and freeze until the consistency of soft mush. Serve in goblets. Frozen tea may be made in the same way."
---Miss Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book, Mrs. S[arah]. T[yson]. Rorer [Arnold and Company:Philadelphia] 1886 (p. 466)

[1887]
"Iced Coffee.

Make more coffee than usual at breakfast time and stronger. When cold put on ice. Serve with cracked ice in each tumbler."
---White House Cook Book, Mrs. F. L. Gilette [L.P. Miller & Co.:Chicago] 1887 (p. 409)

[1896]
"Iced Coffee.

Prepare a quart of coffee as for Black Coffee, and have also a quart of well heated milk, but not boiled, and pour the coffee and milk into an ice-cream freezer, sweeten with a little powdered sugar, cover the freezer and place it in a tub of ice and rock-salt, a little higher than the pot of coffee, then turn the handle of the cover in various directions for five minutes, and sere in coffee glasses with powdered sugar separately."
---The Cook Book By "Oscar" of the Waldorf, Oscar Tschirky [Saalfield Publishing Co.:Chicago] 1896 (p. 807)

[1899]
"Approaching Fourteenth Street the facilities for accommodating the thirsty became more apparent. In one resort, a short distance about Houston Street, the waiters served 'iced coffee' in large cups and saucers. This apparently harmless beverage smelled and tasted like iced beer, and was consumed in great quantities and with exceeding relish by the patrons. Everybody preferred coffee to ginger pop, or even the ample and seductive schooner of sarsaprailla."
---"Coney Island Opening Up," New York Times, June 5, 1899 (p. 8) \

[1907]
"4997. Iced Coffee

Gradually pour 7 1/2 dl (1 1/4 pt or 4 1/4 U.S. cups) boiling water over 300 g (11 oz) freshly ground coffee and allow to filter slowly. Place in a pan with 600 g (1 lb 5 oz) loaf sugar and allow to cool. Now add 1 litre (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups) boiled milk which has been flavoured with vanilla and allowed to cool, and 5 dl (18 fl oz or 2 1/4 U.S. cups) very fresh cream. Freeze in the ice-cream machine but see that the mixture remains almost liquid. Serve in very cold cups."
---The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery, Escoffier, first [1907] translation into English by H.L. Cracknell and R.J. Kaufmann of Le Guide Culinaire in its entirety [John Wiley & Sons:New York] 1997 (p. 587)

[1939]
"Iced Coffee

Fill beverage glasses with ice cubes or crushed ice. Pour over freshly made, double-strength coffee. Serve with confectioners' sugar and plain or whipped cream."
---My Better Homes and Gardens Cook Book, 5th edition, thirty-first printing [Meredith Publishing Co.:Des Moines IA] 1939 (Chapter 3, p. 4)

Iced tea
Iced tea was mass marketed to the general public at the 1904 Exposition in St. Louis (as weremany other foods we now consider popular) but it was not invented there. Food history is full ofinteresting stories when examined are not sometimes supported by documented evidence. Savvy readers know storyrepetition/republishing doesn't make it true. But? Iced tea is mentioned in cook books, articles and traveler's diaries at least forty years before the1904 Exposition.

Print evidence confirms this soothing beverage was prescribed in the mid-19th century for medicinal purposes. Iced Tea Week surfaces in the 1920s.

Jist of the "traditional" 1904 claim:
"In 1949, the Post-Dispatch [newspaper] announced the 45th anniversary of the invention of iced tea in St. Louis. When the Tea Bureau, Inc., in New York held its 1951 competition for "Miss Iced Tea," only St. Louis women couldenter the race. The Tea Bureau was affirming the story that the Fair was, indeed, the birthplace of iced tea. Here's how thestory, as it is recorded in a number of sources, unfolds: Richard Blechynden, the special commissioner from the India TeaAssociation, was in the business of selling the traditional hot drink. During the hot summer of 1904, his hot tea was not exactlyin demand. So he seized the moment by sending his Singhalese waiters out with the and ice cubes in glasses--offering a refreshingnew drink. Hence, the beginning of 'iced' tea! Even the most liberal World's fair buff acknowledges that this story and the accolade'new' attributed to this drink might be a bit exaggerated. Many suggest that Blechynden did not invent the drink, but 'popularized' it, or, as some say now 're-invented' it."...Both hot and iced tea appeared on most menus at the Fair...It is highly unlikely that all these restaurants jumped on the bandwagon of Blechynden's 'new idea,' and scurried to the print shopsto have their menus reprinted!...Blechynden was hardly a desperate tea vendor! In fact, he was the highest-ranking representative from India and the director of the East India Pavilion...His waiters were not Singhalese (from Ceylon), but wereturbaned and bearded natives of India who were clad in white and who served their customers in balcony cafes rather than onstreets...Duane Sneddeker, director of library and archives for the Missouri Historical Society in St. Louis...believes, 'It was during the post-WWII years, that St. Louisans were looking nostalgically at the 'good old days' and began lionizing someof the stories told about the Fair.' This same time period came upon the heels of a popular 1944 movie, Meet me in St.Louis, which so prominently featured the 1904 World's Fair."
---Beyond the Ice Cream Cone: The Whole Scoop on Food at the 1904 World's Fair, Pamela J., Vaccaro [Enid Press:St. Louis MO] 2004 (p. 109)

"Iced tea appeared in the United States, the creation of some anonymous individual, prior to theCivil War. In 1860 a writer for Horace Greely's Tribune, Solon Robinson, published asmallvolume How to Live. In this appeared the sentence Last summer we got in the habit oftaking thetea iced, and really thought it better than when hot. By 1871 the new beverage competed withiced milk, and iced water on hot summer days at the Fifth Avenue Hotel. In New York...By 1878,travelers found iced tea for sale on the Rock Island Railroad and a popular beverage in Sidney,Nebraska. Cookbooks began to offer recipes for iced tea and in 1886 Senators in theirWashington offices were said to have had large coolers of it to mitigate the force of theweather.'"
---Craig Claiborne's The New York Times Food Encyclopedia, compiled by Joan Whitman[Times Books:New York] 1985 (p. 223)

"Exactly when the custom of drinking iced tea began is unknown, but it dates back at least to the1860s, if not long before. A hot drink in vogue in the 1870s, tea a la Russe, made with sugar andsliced lemons, was also enjoyed cold. Iced tea was also available in the 1870s in hotels and onrailroads."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [OxfordUniversity Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 530)

A survey of iced tea recipes through time

[1861]
"Balm and Burrage Tea

These, as well as all other medicinal herbs, may easily be cultivated in a corner of yourgarden...Take a balm and burrage a small handful each, put this into a jug, pour in upon the herbsa quart of boiling water, allow the tea to stand for ten minutes, and then strain it off into anotherjug, and let it become cold. This cooling drink is recommended as a beverage for persons whosesystem has become heated for any cause."
---A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes, Charles Elme Francatelli, London[1861] (p. 92)
[Note: Mr. Francatelli was the head chef for Queen Victoria. He is often credited for introducingmany popular Victorian food dishes and trends.]

[1868]
"Iced tea
is becoming very popular. It is a beverage easily prepared, costs little, does not intoxicate and can be taken any hour. Sweeten your hot tea to suit your taste; then pour it, spoon full by spoon full, into a tumbler filled with ice."
---Janesville Gazzette [WI], August 5, 1868 (p. 1)

[1875]
"Tea, Cold
.--The value of cold tea as a beverage is not sufficently known. Litereaary men and others accustomed to a sedentary occupation would find one or twocups of cold tea taken without milk or sugar to be as stimulating as the same quantity of sherry, whilst there would be no fear of the drowsiness or dimininution of the working power which might arise from imbibing either wine or spirit. The taste for cold tea is an easily-acquired one, and worth cultivating by those who require an occasional and harmless stimulant."
---Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery with Numerous Illustrations [Cassell, Petter, Galpin & Co.:London] 1875 (p. 962)
[NOTE: Without mention of ice or other cooling agent, we cannot determine how "cold" this cold tea was.]

[1877]
Iced tea and Lemon iced tea

, Buckeye Cookery and PracticalHousekeeping

[1884]
Iced Tea, or Russian Tea

, The Boston Cooking School Cook Book, Mrs.D.A. Lincoln

[1887]
"Iced tea
...Is now served to a considerable extent during the summer months. It is of courseused without milk, and the addition of sugar serves only to destroy the finer tea flavor. It may beprepared some hours in advance, and should be made stronger than when served hot. It is bottledand placed in the ice-chest till required. Use the black or green teas, or both, mixed, asfancied."
---White House Cook Book, Mrs. F. L. Gillette, [L.P. Miller:Chicago] 1887 (p. 410)

[1896]
"Iced Tea, French Style

Place in a teapot three tablespoonfuls of tea, pour over two and one-half quarts of boiling water, and turn it into a freezer. Sweeten with three tablespoonfuls of sugar, tightly cover the freezer, place it in a tub containing broken ice and salt a little higher than the height of the tea, turn it sharply by the handle, all round in different directions for five or six minutes, whilethe cover of the freezer well, to prevent any ice falling in, and with the aid of a ladle pour it into a cold pitcher or jar. Send to the table in glasses with slices of lemon, and sugar separately."
---The Cook Book By "Oscar" of the Waldorf, Oscar Tschirky [Saafield Publishing Co.:Chicago] 1896, 1908 (p. 807-808)

[1908]
"Iced tea
. The tea that is to be used for the day's consumption should be made in the earlymorning and in just the same way that it is made to be served hot. The quantity depends upon thenumber of persons to be served, and in hot weather this might well be multiplied by three. Thebest blend of tea for serving cold is equal parts orange Pekoe and English breakfast. This blenddoes not lose strength in standing but ripens and softens in flavor. Tea must never be boiled. Tomake it as it should be, take fresh cold water, bring quickly to the "bubbling" boil, and let itcontinue several minutes. Scald out the teapot, which should be clean and dry, and measure into itas many level teaspoonfuls tea as cups will be required. Pour the furiously boiling water over thetea leaves and let steep on the back of the range four or five minutes, then strain off into a pitcherto cool. When quite cold set in the ice box. By drawing the tea off the leaves when just the properstrength it will be fresh and sweet, without the bitter taste of tannin it gets if allowed to stand toolong on the leaves. Keep the pitcher set close to the ice or pour the tea in bottles and lay directlyon the ice, thus offering more surface for cooling. When ready to serve, if the ice is abovesuspicion, break into pieces about the size of horse chestnuts, put in the glasses and pour the teaover them. If dependent upon the ordinary unsanitary ice, rinse the glasses out in cold water tomake them cold, then fill with the culled tea but no ice. Slices of lemon, a whole clove dripped ineach cup of tea as poured, a bit of pineapple, a sprig of mint or a peppermint cream are among thepopular additions to iced tea."
---The Evening Telegram Cook Book, Emma Paddock Telford [Cupples & Leon:NewYork] 1908 (p. 188)

[1930]
"Mint-Iced Tea

Pour fairly strong hot tea over a handful of bruised mint leaves, add for each glass the juice of half a lemon, and one tablespoonful of sugar. Let stand till cold. Serve with crusted ice, in tall glasses, with a fresh sprig of mint and a thin slice of lemon. It is apt to awaken memories of others days and affords a topic for conversation."
---Old Southern Receipts, Mary D. Pretlow [Robert M. McBride & Company:New York] 1930 (p. 93)

[1948]
"Ease rather than fine flavor sometimes seems to be the criterion of good cookery nowadays. 'How does it taste?' becomes secondary to 'Is it hard to prepare?' This interest in simplification results in all manner of manuaftured short cuts--some delicious as well as quick,; some just quick. Now comes a tea that dissolves in water, hot or cold, leaving no grounds. Speedier than ordinary tea or tea balls? Of course. And we can report that after tasting in The New York Times' test kitchen yesterday, that the flavor has not been sacrificed for an ease of use. Standard Brands, Inc., is introducing Instant Tender Leaf tea, as this perparation is called, in upstate New York. Then itwill take it to the south, then gradually work north...it is novel and interesting enough to be mentioned before it becomes available. That it apparently is considered to havepossibilities is shown by the fact that Nestle Company, Inc., maker of Nescafe, also has perfected an instant tea, called Nestea...Because powdered, soluble tea dissolves in water of any temperature, its convenience becomes most apparent in making iced tea. Here this is no need to boil the water first. Simply put a half-teaspoon of the product in a tall glass, half fill with cool water, stir, add ice to taste and serve."
---"News of Food: Tea That Dissolves in Hot or Cold Water Can Aid Those Seeking Ease in Cookery," Jane Nickerson, New York Times, July 27, 1948 (p. 28)

[1949]
"Only Americans prefer tea iced for a torrid-weather drink. People everywhere else generally prefer tea hot. That doesn't stop the Yanks--more than 100,000,000 of usconsume about 2,500,000,000 glasses of it each season. The story goes that Richard Blechynden's tea room concession at the St. Louis Exposition in 1904 wasn't bringing many customers--until he initiated pouring tea over ice in a glass. The concoction was a smash hit and iced tea's poularity here has been on the upgrade ever since. ...Forty-five year's championship is warranted by the fact that iced tea is cool and easy to prepare, that it can be drunk in large quantities, that it is inexpensive and that it is a wonderful mixer. Candied mint is a delightful garnish for iced tea and tea punches. Made now while mint is large of leaf and aromatic, it can be stored successfully for a surprise appearance at the holiday season, too."
---"Typically American: Iced Tea Traditional Hot-Weather Drink," Marian Manners, Los Angeles Times, July 12, 1949 (p. B3)Sun Tea; iced tea alternative
"A way to make tea owther than by steeping in boiling water is to cover the tea leaves with cold water and let them stand eight or ten hours. The infusion will possess a different flavor. Though tea made in this way is often preferred, it is not economical, asdouble the amount of tea is required to make the drink. Russian tea is made by placing a slice of lemon in each cup before pouring theboiling hot tea. In serving use tiny tumblers instead of teacups. This is quite as palatable when cold."
---"Tea Made with Cold Water," Los Angeles Times, November 8, 1894 (p. 5)

Iced Tea Week
Who brewed the idea for "Iced Tea Week?" It seems everybody did! Tea manufacturers, tea industry leaders and tea retailersall back this summer celebration. Promotions hail
iced tea as refreshing, healthy and economical. Presumably, this specially designated week was created boost tea sales, traditionally sagging during the hot summer months. Like most "national" food celebrations, the actual weeks vary.

[1925]
"This is 'Salada Iced Tea Week' in Sioux City. It is needless to mention that iced tea is one of the most popular American beverages. It is purely seasonable, thriving in the hot summer weather and during that brief season it is safe to say that millions of glasses of iced teaare consumed. Good iced tea depends entirely upon the kind of tea used in preparation, for its claim to popularity, and that is way Salada tea is in sucd demand, especially so during the summer months. There are some folks, perhaps, who have not hear of all the merits of'Salada Iced Tea.' or some, who maybe need to be more fully informed of same, and for these reasons the Journal merchandising departnemntis staging this special 'Salada Iced Tea Week; in Sioux City all this week. All grocers are co-operating with the big publicity program and will beglad to take care of their customers who wish to order Salada tea. There is a very beautiful display of this particular brand of tea in one of theJournal's windows at Fifth and Douglas streets, which everyone should make it a point to see. Unusual effects are employed in making this one ofthe most original and unique displays ever put in The Journal window."
---"Plans are completed for 'Salada Week in Sioux City'," Sioux City Sunday Journal, August 16, 1925 (p. 11)
[1929]
"Iced Tea Week. Ice Tea is fast becoming recognizes as summertime's most popular drink. It is cool, refreshing, invigorating and healthful--nothing is more refreshing on a hot day than a tinkling, cold glass of delicious Iced Tea, and to remind you that it is iced tea time, we areoffering the finest of well known brands at very low prices. Replenish your Tea supply now...Tetley's 1/2 lb pkg 45 cents,Liptons, 1/2 lb pkg 49 cents, Salada, 1/4 lb pkg 25 cents, Gunpowder bulk lb 59 cents, Ceylon bulk lb 59 cents."
---display ad, The Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Co. (A&P), Kittanning Simpson Leader [PA], June 28, 1929 (p. 11)

"Iced Tea Week: The most economical of Drinks."
---Portsmouth Herald [NH], August 9, 1929 (p. 3)

[1932]
"Iced Tea Week! A&P's nation-wide organizaiton of over 15,000 food stores is celebrating Iced Tea Week with remarkably low prices onits famous quality Nectar and Mayfair Teas. Whether you prefer iced tea or hot tea...you can't afford to miss these savings! Nectar Tea, 1/4 lb. pkg. 13 Cents, 1/2 pb pkg. 25 cents, Nectar Tea Balls pkg of 15, 13 cents, Pkg. of 30, 25 cents: Choice of Orange-pekoe, India-Ceylon-Java, Mixed and Formosa."
---display ad, New YOrk Times, June 2, 1932 (p. 15)

[1938]
"The Iced Tea Week is backed by the Tea Bureau, which has been running copy consistently in newspapers and magazines. In addition,individual packers and bag houses are promoting the day. Albert Ehlers, Inc., tea packer is enclosing a bulletin in each packageemphasizing the cooling qualities of tea, and Oneida Paper Products, Inc. and Continentaly Bag Specialties Corporation are briningout special packages promoting iced tea."
---"Advertising News and Notes," New York Times, June 18, 1938 (p. 25)

[1949]
"...National Hot Tea Week (Feb. 11-18) and a National Iced Tea Week (July 1-8)."
---"Topics of the Times," New York Times, January 10, 1949 (p. 24)

[1951]
"National Iced Tea Time will be held from July 13 to 20, 1951, the Tea Bureau, Inc. announced. Tea Time will take the place of NationalIced Tea Week."
---"Advertising News and Notes," Nwe York Times, November 20, 1951 (p. 33)

Related beverage: iced coffee.

Milk
first milks.....baby formula....biestings.....buttermilk.....chocolate milk.....gallon containers.....
low-fat milk.....Plasmon.....powdered milk.....skim milk.....sour milk.....yogurt

The history of milk is a complicated and fascinating topic. Mother's milk has nurtured the human race from the dawn of time to present day. Generally, the emergence of milk as an industry traces back to the agricultural revolution, 10,000BC. Prehistoric hunter-gatherers capturedanimals but did not domesticate them. Once people had the wherewithall to settle down, theydomesticated animals and learned to utilize their byproducts. Dairy foods (milk, cheese, yogurt)flourished. Pasteurization [1861]played a significant role in the history milk production.

"Throughout the history and prehistory of the human species, breast milk provided the major sustenance for a person's firstyear of life...It was also widely used in women's healing remedies. In other words...[it] represented a significant part of the human food economy."
---Nature's Perfect Food: How Milk Became America's Drink, E. Melanie DuPuis [New York University Press:New York] 2002 (p. 46)

"The milks of other species of mammal is one of humankind's most ancient foods--it was in factthe mostsignificant single contribution of the Neolithic peoples' domestication of animals to the humandiet. Over themillennia most species of livestock have been milked, including in various parts of the worldhorses,donkeys, camels, buffaloes, and yaks (the only major exception is the pig...), but today in theWest theterm milk, unless further qualified, is generally taken to refer to cow's milk...The word milk isancient too. Itcan be traced back to our Indo-European ancestors, who used a verb something like *melf- for wiping' or stroking'. Since the action of milking involved the pulling the hand down the animal's teat, thisverbeventually came to mean milk'. But it was the Germanic languages that picked it up, in the form*meluks,as a noun."
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 212)

"The oldest known record of animals being kept in herds and milked is a series of cave paintingsin theLibyan Dahara, showing milking and perhaps cheese-making too, and possibly older than 5,000BC. TheSumerians, around 3500 BC, and the Egyptians a few centuries later used milk and have leftreliefs andrecords showing that they prepared curdled milk products."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.503)

"Domestication of cattle probably started because wild cattle were attracted to the fields of graingrown byearly farmers and robbed these abundant supplies of food...Exactly when domestication tookplace isuncertain, but by 3000BC there is evidence for several well-defined breed in representations ofcattle fromboth Mesopotamia and Egypt..."
---Oxford Companion to Food (p. 145)

"Although cattle have been domesticated for less than 10,000 years, they are the world's mostimportantanimal, as judged by their multiple contributions of draft power, meat, milk, hides, anddung...Evidence forthe domestication of cattle dates from between 8,000 and 7,000 years ago in southwestern Asia.Suchdating suggests that cattle were not domesticated until cereal domestication had taken place,whereassheep and goats entered the barnyard of humans with the beginning of agriculture...As with sheepandgoats, the process of domesticating cattle resulted in animals smaller than the wild progenitor.Datedosteological material from Neolithic sites establishes the transition from wild todomesticated...The FertileCrescent has long been considered the place of initial cattle domestication, but that view tends toreflect thelarge number of excavations made there. Early signs of Neolithic cattle keeping have also beenfound inAnatolia (Turkey), where the osteological material at Catal Huyuk provides evidence of thetransition fromthe auruchs of 8,400 years ago to cattle by 7,800 years ago. In short, it is still premature tospecify wherethe first cattle were domesticated...Westward diffusion of cattle throughout Europe was tied tothe inventionof the wooden plow. The harnessing of a powerful animal to that device made it possible togreatly extendcultivation without a corresponding increase in human population..."
---Cambridge World History of Food, Kenneth F. Kiple & Kriemhild Conee Ornelas[CambridgeUniversity Press:Cambridge], Volume One, 2000 (p. 490-2)

"The second unlooked-for benefit of animal domestication...was milk. The fact that animalssuckled theiryoung...must have been known from the earliest times, but the full value (and volume) of the milkthatanimals could be induced to supply to their new masters must have come as a revelation. Milkbeing highlyperishable...a few hours would be enough to start it fermenting in the climate of the Near East.Dependingupon the temperature and the kind of bacteria in the air, the curds might develop into somethingpleasantand refreshing, or something quite uneatable even by Neolithic peoples...Throughout much ofhistory, andespecially in hot climates, milk has always been most used in one or other of its soured orfermentedforms."
---Food in History, Reay Tannahill [Three Rivers Press:New York] 1988 (p. 27-8)

"Archeologists excavating lake dwellings on the banks of Lake Neuchatel have found potsherdspiercedwith holes which date back to at least six thousand years BC. They conclude that these vesselscould havebeen drainers for separating curds from whey...What kind of milk might the ancient lake-dwellershavebeen processing in this way?...Although domestication of goats and sheep was beginning tochange theway of life of the Mediterranean peoples at this period, we do not yet know if they had reachedthe stage ofmilking the animals and making dairy produce to keep. Cows did not appear on the Alpine sceneuntil afterthe Roman conquest of the Valais 53 centuries later...Noah's descendant Abraham, very rich in cattle'presented to him by Pharaoh, gave butter, and milk, and the calf which he had 'dressed' to thethree angelswho came to visit him (Genesis 18, viii). We can roughly situate that possible existing of thefather of theJewish nation in the second millennium BC...A kind of strip cartoon depiction on a polychromeSumerianfresco of 2500BC....gives some idea of the methods used. It shows cows with their calves, stillnot very farfrom the primitive aurochs cattle, being milked by peasants on both sides of the gates of acorral...The milkis put into large, carefully cleaned jars...Goats and sheep will adapt easily to any climate andbrowse on anykind of weed; goats will eat most prickly plants as well. They long supplied most of the milk thatwas drunkor made in to butter and cheese. Cattle, worked to the bone as draught animals, provided hardlyany. Wemay assume that the Babylonian cows gave milk only at calving time, when they were enjoying arespitefrom work. Virgil does not seem very keen on cow's milk, at least, he recommends its use only forrearingcalves."
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, translated by Anthea Bell [Barnes &NobleBooks:New York] 1992 (p. 113-4)

"Milk had an unusual status as a food item in the classical world, because milk, as such, will notkeep (without the use of refrigeration or other modern techniques). So the drinking of fresh milkwas a luxury shared by farmers and nomadic shepherds with those in cities and royal courts whowere rich enough to pay for express delivery...Aristotle observes that sheep, goats and cows allproduce more milk than is needed for their own offspring. These were the sources of most of themilk that Greeks and Romans used; mare's milk and ass's milk were also sometimes used. Themilk of any of these five animals might be used as an ingredient in kykeon [a magical andmedicinal drink]. Aristotle also refers to the drinking of camel's milk. Much of the milk thatdomestic animals produced was turned into cheese, a far more stable substance and an excellentfood. Both milk and cheese were typical foods of shepherds."
---Food in the Ancient World from A to Z, Andrew Dalby [Routledge:London] 2003 (p.217-8)

"Neither milk nor butter occurs among the lists of ingredients required by cooks in classical Greekcomedy scenes. Milk is called for, incidentally, in only three of the Roman recipes of Apicius. In apre-technological age milk, gala, was available as a beverage only to those who lived close to theland. Hence, in Greek literature, milk-drinking is a mark of the pastoral peoples who did not, likethe Greeks themselves, live in towns."
---Siren Feasts: A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece, Andrew Dalby[Routledge:London] 1996 (p. 65-6)

"Sheep and goats were introduced into Britain by the first farmers. They may have brought cowsand pigswith them as well, and in any case they must soon have begun to tame the native wild stock.Cattle werethe most important animals in neolithic Britain, as their bones are far more numerous than thoseof otherlivestock on contemporary habitation sites...About 250 BC Britain's climate became drier andwarmer, andanimals could survivie more easily in the open...Cows supplied milk as well a meat, though thelactationperiod was much shorter than now."
---Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson[AcademyChicago: Chicago] 1991 (p. 62-3)

"Milk played a part in the diet of the people of Britain from the time when the first neolithicfarmers broughttheir domestic cows, sheep and goats into the coutry. At that period cow milk was the kind mostoftendrunk; for cows, which could live off the leaves of the forest that covered almost the wholecountry, faroutnumbered the grazing animals. Over several hundreds of years some parts of the woodlandweregradually cleared, and by Bronze Age times there was more open terrain in which sheep and goatscouldbe kept. Ewes, like cows, were milked; so also were she-goats."
---Food and Drink in Britain (p. 149)

"The pattern of animal husbandry changed only very slowly through the years following theNormanConquest. But eventually the number of cattle on the manors rose as cow's milk came to bepreferred toewe's milk."
---Food and Drink in Britain (p. 78)

"The milking of ewes was abandoned altogether by some farmers in the sixteenth century on thegrounds thatit took too much of the animal's strength...Ewe's milk was given up reluctantly, for it was thought,at least bysome people, 'to be fulsome, sweet and such in taste that no man will gladly yield to live and feedwithal'...Milk and milk products were useful adjuncts to the cuisine of the gentry, and enrichedcertain oftheir dishes...The peasant's cow was his commonwealth, providing him and his family with butter, cheese,whey, curds, cream, sod (boiled) milk, raw-milk, sour-milk, sweet-milk, and butter-milk'...Thewell-to-dorarely consumed milk in its raw state, for it was known to curdle in the stomach, and was thoughtoengender wind there..."
---Food and Drink in Britain (p. 156-7)

Biestings
Biesting (beesting, French: amouille) is an old term that means the first milk given by a cow after calving. This milk would be thicker, yellowish and especially rich in nutrients. A beestingcake presumably would have used this type of milk. We also find mentions of beesting custard. According to the Oxford English Dictionary the origin of this word is unclear, but can be traced back ot Old English. Alternate spellings include biestings. According tothe OED the oldest known use of this word in print dates to 1000AD.

"Tradition attributes mystical curative powers to beestings, and it has often been used to make special curds and other dishes for invalids."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson, 2nd edition edited by Tom Jaine [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2006 (p. 72)

Buttermilk
"Buttermilk is the liquid left after cream has been turned into butter by churning...in Scandinavia it is popular as adrink. In the days when the peasantry of Ireland subsisted on potatoes, buttermilk was what they washed them down with."
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 48-9)

"Buttermilk was drunk in N. Europe throughout the Middle Ages; and in Britain it was for many centuries a 'perk' ofshepherds and dairymaids. In the 17th century, and on into the 18th, both buttermilk and whey became fashionable city drinks(being drunk by the diarist Pepys, for instance, in 1664). In recent times, after a long period when buttermilk was in low esteem, more people have come to regard it as a healthful alternative to ordinary milk, having much less fat. Its slightlysour taste is seen as an attraction: less cloying than whole milk and more interesting than plain skimmed milk."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 118)

"If buttermilk is strained, it yields some curds which are put to various uses in e.g. C. Asia, the Middle East, and Scandinavia....In the Netherlands buttermilk is hung up in a cloth until all the whey has drained, and then eaten on a rusk with sugarand cinnamon. This is called hangop."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 119)

"Secretary Wilson has utilized a moment of respite from investigating scandals in his department to take up with the head of his Dairy Department, E.F. Webster, the subject of dried buttermilk. "There is no better drink," said Secretary Wilson, "than buttermilk when it comes fresh from the churn. Two days later it is so fermented that it makes pigs squeal to smell it. i think there should be some way to preserve it for commercial uses. I said to Mr. Webster, 'Try and see fi you can preserve it in some practical and inexpensive way. Perhaps it can be done in tins. If not, it may be dried, possibly, by driving the water cut of it,and then the consumer may restore the water and have his buttermilk fresh and wholesome any time.' We hope to get some sort of practicalresults from our experiments."
---"Dried Buttermilk Next," New York Times, September 8, 1905 (p. 9)

"Buttermilk Chicken Feed. Sincerity Egg mash with Dried Buttermilk promotes healthy normal growth...The dried buttermilk furnishesbutter fat. The dried buttermilk eliminates digestive troubles and increases assimilation."
---ad published in the Chicago Daily Tribune, February 29, 1920 (p. E16)

"Buttermilk is the residual milk left over after churning and having removed the fat. It forms a capital beverage and it allays thirstmost effectively. Buttermilk is extensively used by the peasantry of some European and Asiatic countries. It must of necessity be used while cool and fresh as it rapidly decomposes and becomes rancid. Its action is diuretic to meet most individuals and unfortunate by most of it is fed to swine instead of being utilized by the human race...Dietitians serve itfreely to patients in hospitals and in X-ray or Roetigenologic work as it is generally agreed that buttermilk is the ideal mediumfor carrying bismuth of barium sulphate in suspension. it is not feasable to even attempt to have an adequate supply of freshbuttermilk always on hand, of course...To meet these very requirements, therefore, scientists and rentgenologists have made extensiveexperiments and have successfully found that buttermilk in a dehydrated form is satisfactory and none of its virtues are impaired by sujbjection to that process. Just as the buttermilk comes from the churn it is dehydrated. The water is expressed from the liquid, but nothing is added to the buttermilk solids thus obtained. When it is intended to be used, water is added to the dry product and you have fresh buttermilk again. This 'pan-dried' buttermilk is highly recommended as it permanently retains itsproperties, whereas in the natural state buttermilk spoils very quickly...Where there is an unusual degree of humidity, it may cakeif not carefully stored; a little crushing in a mortar renders it normal and ready for use..."
---"Dedydrated Buttermilk: Dairy By-Product Has varied Uses in the family Kitchen," Los Angeles Times, December 9, 1922 (p. 118)

"In the world of instants, there's a new product with old-fashioned appeal. It's cultured buttermilk powder, with when mixed with water, can be used in biscuit, muffin, pancake, and cake recipes in place of fluid buttermilk. The product, which hails from Wisconisn, the dairy state, is just being introduced in our markets. It offers economic benefits as well as shelf stability. But what about product performance? To find out, we pitted the powder against fluid buttermilk in the two most popular buttermilk-based recipes--biscuits and chocolate cake. The results were promising...The convenience from of old-fashionedbuttermiilk does have some economic benefits. A canister containing a pound of powder, when reconsittuted, makes 5 quarts of buttermilk. Suggested retail price for the powder is $1.89. Five quarts of fluid buttermilk costs about 67 cents a quart, or about $3.35 for an equivalent amount. The buttermilk product is also shelf-stable...Though the product has only been on retail shelvesa few short months, it already has gained a good following, according to the company representatives...Buttermilk has been a homebaking ingredient for nearly 50 years, according to the company literature. Originally, it was strictly a farm product, but in the 1920s the by-product of buttermaking became a commercial commodity. What makes buttermilk so special is that it gives baked goods a lighter, more fluffy texture. Real buttermilk contains a natural emulsifier that helps disperse fat throughout a mix or batter...The product, Saco cultured buttermilk powder, currently is available at selected A&P, Scott Lad, and Kohl's food stores."
---"Dried Buttermilk: It's new, used for baking, works well," Joanne Will, Chicago Tribune, June 7, 1979 (p. N-A 9)

Related food? Sour milk.

Chocolate milk
Milk and chocolate combinations were promoted in the late 19th/early 20th century as healthy food for infants and invalids.Chocolate flavored
puddings/custards, malteds (malt being rich in vitamin B complex), sodas, and commercial beverages were embraced by restaurants, soda fountains, and food manufacturers.

Our survey of U.S. patent records and New York Times articles suggests commmerial pre-made chocolate milk products probably originated in local dairies. It may be very difficult to pinpoint which company was first to offer chocolate milk to its customers. Local dairies did not generally seek (nor did they need) national trademark protection. The earliest chocolate milk products we find registered with the U.S. PTO are from the 1920s. Bottled chocolate drinks (Yoo Hoo was one of the first) were introduced during Prohibition.

[1922]
Yoo Hoo chocolate drink is introduced to the American public:
"Word Mark YOO-HOO Goods and Services IC 032. US 045. G & S: NONALCOHOLIC MALTLESS BEVERAGE SOLD AS A SOFT DRINK. FIRST USE: 19220703. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19220703 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM Design Search Code Serial Number 71539343 Filing Date October 28, 1947 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0507891 Registration Date March 22, 1949 Owner (REGISTRANT) OLIVIERI, NATOLE DBA YOO-HOO CHOCOLATE BEVERAGE CO. INDIVIDUAL UNITED STATES NO. 113 FARNHAM AVENUE GARFIELD NEW JERSEY. (LAST LISTED OWNER) YOO-HOO CHOCOLATE BEVERAGE CORP. CORPORATION BY MERGER WITH NEW JERSEY 600 COMMERCIAL AVENUE CARLSTADT NEW JERSEY 07072"

[1925]
Inspectors have reported on samples of chocolate milk sold in bottles. Examination showed that skim milk had been used in the manufacture of some of the samples. The law requires that if skim milk is used the bottles must be labeled accordingly.
---Synthetic Soft Drinks Must be Labeled and Contents Told or Suffer State Ban, New York Times, June 8, 1925 (p. 3)

[1928]
Mavis Chocolate Drink. Listen Dealers! Mavis has more real value than any other 5 cent drink sold in bottles. One bottle of Mavis costs as much to make as two bottles of many other 5 cent bottled drink. Mavis is superior to all other 5 cent bottled drinks from the standpoint of (1) Deliciousness (2) Refereshment (3) Nutriment (4) Food Value (5) Ingredients (6) Purity. Now--a Word to the Public! Mavis is made of pure chocolate...honey...sugar and other wholesome ingredients. Mavis is as delicious as any 10cent or 15cent chocoalte milk drink sold at soda fountains. Mavis is sold in bottles only...Mavis is different from other 5 cent bottled drinks. Mavis contains NO acids. NO coloring matter. NO drugs. NO preservatives. Mavis doesnt imitate anything. Mavis is Real! Mavis is so pure, delicious, wholesome and digestible that the smallest tots thrive on it. Mavis builds their little bodies into strong, sturdy youngsters and brings bloom to their cheeks. As a refreshing bracer...Mavis is the idea drink for man, woman or child...Mavis quenches thirst and satisfies hunger between meals, because a 5cent bottle of Mavis contains as much food value in calories as a glass of Grade A Milk...Mavis is sterilized and pasteurized in the bottle...Sold Direct to the Trade Only by Mavis Bottling Co. Of New York.
---Mavis company adverstisem*nt, New York Times, June 2, 1928 (p. 7)

[1930]
Choco Milk brand powdered product is introduced:

Word Mark CHOCO MILK Goods and Services (CANCELLED) IC 030. US 046. G & S: PREPARATION IN POWDERED FORM CONTAINING MILK, COCOA, AND MALT FOR USE IN MAKING A NUTRITIOUS BEVERAGE. FIRST USE: 19300102. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19300102

[1930]
Kelco brand chocolate milk:

Word Mark KELCO Goods and Services IC 030. US 046. G & S: ALGIN PRODUCT SOLD DIRECT IN BULK TO MANUFACTURERS AND TO JOBBERS FOR RESALE TO MANUFACTURERS FOR USE AS A HYDROPHILIC COLLOID POSSESSING STABILIZING, THICKENING, SUSPENDING, EMULSIFYING, GEL-FORMING AND WATER HOLDING PROPERTIES IN ICE CREAM, ICED MILK, SHERBETS, WATER ICES, CHOCOLATE MILK, CONFECTIONERIES SUCH AS CANDY JELLIES, FRUIT JELLIES, CHEESE, SALAD DRESSING, PUDDINGS, DEHYDRATED FOODS, MEAT PRODUCTS, BAKERY PRODUCTS SUCH AS BREAD, MERINGUE, ICINGS, AND OTHER FOOD PRODUCTS. FIRST USE: 19300201. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19300201 Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING Design Search Code Serial Number 71462315 Filing Date July 26, 1943 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0416387 Registration Date September 11, 1945 Owner (REGISTRANT) KELCO COMPANY CORPORATION DELAWARE SAN DIEGO CALIFORNIA (LAST LISTED OWNER) CP KELCO U.S., INC. CORPORATION DELAWARE 1000 PARKWAY CIRCLE, SUITE 1000 ATLANTA NEW JERSEY 30339

[1934]
Bowman brand chocolate milk

Word Mark BOWMAN Goods and Services IC 029 030. US 046. G & S: FRESH MILK, BUTTERMILK, CHOCOLATE MILK DRINK, CREAM [ BUTTER, EGGS, ICE CREAM, SHERBETS, ICES, POWDERED MILK, POWDERED BUTTERMILK, AND A BAKING COMPOUND CONSISTING OF MILK INGREDIENTS, CEREALS, AND SPICES ]. FIRST USE: 19390101. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19390101 Mark Drawing Code (3) DESIGN PLUS WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS... Registration Number 0511736 Registration Date July 5, 1949 Owner (REGISTRANT) BOWMAN DAIRY COMPANY CORPORATION ILLINOIS 140 WEST ONTARIO STREET CHICAGO 10 ILLINOIS (LAST LISTED OWNER) DEAN FOODS COMPANY CORPORATION ASSIGNEE OF DELAWARE 3600 NORTH RIVER ROAD FRANKLIN PARK ILLINOIS 60131

[1935]
Southern Dairies brand chocolate milk

Word Mark SOUTHERN DAIRIES Goods and Services IC 030. US 046. G & S: ICE CREAM, ICES, SHERBETS, [ FLUID MILK, CREAM, BUTTERMILK, ] BUTTER [ , EGGS, COTTAGE CHEESE, SKIM MILK, ICE MILK, AND CHOCOLATE MILK DRINK, THE LATTER BEING SOLD AS A FOOD BEVERAGE ]. FIRST USE: 19350000. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19350000 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM Design Search Code Serial Number 71479999 Filing Date February 19, 1945 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Published for Opposition May 6, 1947 Change In Registration CHANGE IN REGISTRATION HAS OCCURRED Registration Number 0431562 Registration Date July 29, 1947 Owner (REGISTRANT) SOUTHERN DAIRIES, INC. CORPORATION DELAWARE 60 M ST., N.E. WASHINGTON D.C. (LAST LISTED OWNER) UNILEVER SUPPLY CHAIN, INC. DELAWARE 1 JOHN STREET CLINTON CONNECTICUT 06413

[1949]
Nestles Quik is introduced:

Word Mark NESTLE QUIK Goods and Services IC 030. US 046. G & S: POWDERED, SWEETENED COCOA INTENDED TO BE USED TO MAKE CHOCOLATE MILK, CHOCOLATE SAUCE, CHOCOLATE FROSTING, AND THE LIKE. FIRST USE: 19490531. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 19490531 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM Design Search Code Serial Number 71642363 Filing Date February 17, 1953 Current Filing Basis 1A Original Filing Basis 1A Registration Number 0629231 Registration Date June 19, 1956 Owner (REGISTRANT) NESTLE COMPANY, INC., THE CORPORATION NEW YORK 2 WILLIAM ST. WHITE PLAINS NEW YORK (LAST LISTED OWNER) SOCIETE DES PRODUITS NESTLE S.A. CORPORATION ASSIGNEE OF SWITZERLAND CASE POSTALE 353 1800 VEVEY SWITZERLAND

[1953]
Some of those who ordinarily find their milk waiting for them on the doorstep in the morning will receive deliveries today. Normal service is expected tomorrow. Few processord bothered yesterday with such items as cream or chocolate milk, so intent were they on meeting the demand for milk.
---Milk Flowing Gere With Strikes End, Stanley Levey, New York Times, November 1, 1953 (p. 1)

[1962]
PDQ, chocolate-flavored granules, introduced as an alternative to syrup and cocoa mix for mixing with milk.

[1970]
The list of items dispensed by the machines is lengthy: ice cream bars, ice cream drumsticks, ice cream sandwiches, ice cream cups, malts, meat and cheese sandwiches, candy, soda pop in bottles and cans, pastry, pints of regular and chocolate milk, cartons of orange drink, hot cocoa, hot coffee.
---Fill er up! Now Means Car and Customers, Susan Marsh, New York Times, January 4, 1970 (p. B12)

[1983]
The brown carton looks like a giant Hershey bar stood on its and and exploded full three dimensions. Sitting on the cooler shelf among the unassuming quarts of milk, it assaults the eye like an Andy Warhol painting. It is this forceful image, so well known that for years the Hershey Chocolate Company did not even advertise, that the company is counting on to sell its first entry into the packaged beverage market: premixed chocolate milk. But Hershey is not alone. The NestleCompany, also banking on the familiarity of its Nestle Quik brand name, distinctive logotype and yellow and brown container, has also joined the race to dominate what is now a $363 million-a-year market for premixed chocolate milk.
---Hershey and Nestle Enter Milk Market, Paul Hemp, New York Times, August 23, 1983 (p. A1)

[1993]
Todays children are unlikely to experience the simple joy of dribbling dark chocolate syrup on the pristine surface of a glass of milk and watching it sink and later using a spoon to recapture the syrup at the bottom of the glass. Instead they shake a container and pour some chocolate flavored drink or milk into a glass or, increasingly, poke a straw into a box. If plain chocolate is not to their taste, they can choose chocolate-cherry, chocolate-caramel, or chocolate-marshmallow, as well as strawberry, banana, banans split or root beer. If digesting milk gives them trouble, there is even a lactose-reduced chocolate milk...We see a lot of potential in the drink boxes, so were adding flavors, said Bonnie Hinkson of Hershey Foods in Hershey Pa., which introduced the shelf-stable milk boxes in 1990 and now makes them in six flavors.
---How Do Those Cows Do That? Times Change and Chocolate Milk Flows, Florence Fabricant, New York Times, September 8, 1993

Related quaffables? Cocoa & hot chocolate

Lowfat milk
Milk containing various levels of fat has been sold from ancient times forward. Traditional grades carried descriptivenames: heavy cream, new milk,
skimmed milk. Regulated milk fat grading expressed in percents, as we Americans know it today, was promulgated by the US Dept. of Agriculture in 1977. These regulations can be found in theTitle 21, Code of Federal Regulations, part 131: Milk and Cream. Original notice can be found in the Federal Register, March 15, 1977 (42 FR 14360).

"The cholesterol wars arrived several generations after three strategic developments that don't do much for cause of good plain milk but would enable the industry to reinvent itself under fire. In the end, these bits of technical progress would give dairy processors the tools for taking Nature's Perfect Food apart-the really decisive factor-putting it back together with selling points that nature hadn't thought of. The first break through, in the 1880s, was the mechanical separation of cream by centrifuge, far more thorough than any hand skimming. The next came in 1890, when a University of Wisconsin dairy chemist invented the eponymous Babco*ck test for measuring the precise fat content in milk-at the time, the chief indicator of quality. These two advances led to intense growth in the butter industry, which became the most lucrative destination for milk. The third crucial achievement was hom*ogenization, or the technique of crushing milkfat globules into droplets too small to rise to the surface in a cream layer. hom*ogenization had to overcome several obstacles before it could be coupled with the first two advances. It disrupted the chemical structure of the milkfat so drastically as to release a torrent of enzymes that promptly turned raw milk rancid. Even when dairy chemists learned to sidestep rancidity by combining the steps of pasteurizing (which inactivated the enzymes) and hom*ogenizing, there remained the age-old consumer habit of judging milk by its richness-i.e. the thickness of the cream layer on top. When packaging in glass bottles came in toward the start of the twentieth century, one of its advantages from a buyer's point of view was the plainly visible 'creamline.' The fact that hom*ogenized milk in glass tended to acquire an unpleasant oxidized flavor on exposure to light more rapidly than creamline milk was another strike against it. As a result, until shortly after World War II few people saw any reason to want hom*ogenized milk. Milk for drinking was almost without exception available in only two degrees of richness: with or without all the original fat. Skim milk, or what was left when the cream was separated for other purposes, was the ugly sister. Health experts warned mothers that it was paltry stuff, deficient in crucial nutrients. (Most state required that it be fortified with vitamin A to replace the fat-soluble beta-carotene that disappeared along with the cream; this step is still mandatory for fat-free and most reduced-fat milk.) At the nation's creameries skim milk was an unvalued by-product, often dumped for lack of any profitable use. As early as the late 1930s a few dairy processors had been trying to win people over to hom*ogenized milk. The turning point came with a postwar shift to opaque paper or cardboard containers in place of returnable milk bottles. This in turn accompanied another shift away from home delivery and toward supermarket purchases of milk..."From the '60s or '70s on, hasty public health re-education campaigns sought to convert consumers to 'the less, the better' attitudes regarding fat percentages in milk, with zero being the new ideal. Zero was easily attainable through centrifuging, but centrifuged skim milk lacked the flavor-saving smidgin of cream that remained in the milk after hand skimming. Some people uncomplainingly adopted zero-fat milk; many more balked. The milk-processing industry eventually arrived at a spectrum of products starting with 0 percent milkfat milk and progressing through various hom*ogenized gradations of fat content: .05 percent (officially 'low-fat'), 1 percent, 1.5 percent, and 2 percent (these last three 'reduced fat'). All quickly acquired fan clubs that are now an entrenched part of American culture. For a long time the hardest sell remained skim milk, and for good reason: The usual commercial versions are a singularly thin, vapid travesty of decent hand-skimmed milk. But eventually processors hit on the stratagem of using dried skim milk solids to add body and selling the result under names like 'Skim Milk Plus.'.""
---Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages, Anne Mendelson [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 2008 (p. 45-47)

"Milk, that all-American food, is taking on some all-American names--like "fat free," "reduced fat" and "light." Starting Jan. 1, 1998, the labeling of fat-reduced milk products will have to follow the same requirements the Food and Drug Administration established almost five years ago for the labeling of just about every other food reduced in fat. From now on: 2 percent milk will become known, for example, as "reduced fat" or "less fat" instead of "low fat" 1 percent milk will remain "low fat" or become, for example, "little fat" skim will retain its name or be called, for example, fat-free, zero-fat, or no-fat milk. Also, the regulations that implement the labeling changes give dairy processors more leeway to devise new formulations. As a result, consumers may see a broader range of milk and other dairy products, including "light" milk with at least 50 percent less fat than whole, or full-fat, milk and other reformulated milks with reduced fat contents but greater consumer appeal."
---"Skimming the Milk Label," FDA Consumer, January-February 1998.

Powdered milk
Modern powdered milk (aka dried milk, dessicated milk, milk powder) was developed as a lighter alternative to canned milk products. Theproduct goals were the same: inexpensive, shelf-stable, & portable. Powdered milk is a more complicated product to meet consumer demands. Think: flavor& reconsitution. Some food historians trace the genesis of dried milk products to Medieval times. Powdered milk, as we know it today, descends from mid-19th century commercial health food experiments.

[13th century Asia]
"Powdered Milk in the 13th-Century Asia. [The Tartar armies] make provisions also of milk, thickened or dried to the state of a hard paste, which they prepare in the following manner. They boiled the milk, and skimming off the rich or creamy part as it rises to the top, put it into a separate vessel as butter for so long as that remains milk, it will not become hard. The mild is then exposed to the sun as it dries. [When it is to be used] some is put into a bottle with as much water as is thought necessary. By their motion in riding, the contents are violently shaken, and a thin porridge is produced, upon which they make their dinner."
---On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of The Kitchen, Harold McGee, completely revised and updated edition [Scribner:New York] 2004 (p. 23)
[NOTE: This history tidbit is also recounted in Pickled, Potted and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Preserving Changed the World/Sue Shepard (p. 146)]

[1870s: enriched milk powders recommended as infant formula]

[1880s: dessicated (dried) milk]
"Milk may be dessicated by evaporating to the consistence of dough and then thoroughly drying, after which it is crushed and bottled."
---The Grocers' Hand-Book [Philadelphia Grocer Publishing Co.:Philadelphia] 1886 (p. 132)

[1890s: albumin enriched milk is recommended for invalids: natural ingredient & egg white supplement]
"Chemically considered, the constituents of milk are nitrogenous matter (consisting of casein and a small proportion of albumin), fat, sugar of milk, mineral matter, and water, the last constituting from sixty-five to ninety per cent of the whole. The proportion of these elements varies greatly in the milk of different animals."
---Science in the Kitchen, Ella Eaton Kellogg [Modern Medicine Publishing Co.:Battle Creek MI] 1892 (p. 364)

"Where a larger amount of nutritment is required, albuminized milk is valuable." (p. 11)..."Albuminized Milk. 1/2 cup milk. White 1 egg. Put the white of egg in a tumbler, add milk, cover tightly, and shake thoroughly until well mixed." (p. 496)
---Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, Fannie Merritt Farmer, facsimile 1896 edition [Weathervane Books:New York] 1974

[1900s: Plasmon & milk powder]
"Plasmon is the albumen of pure fresh milk in the form of a dry, soluble, granulated cream white powder."
---The Plasmon Cookery Book [International Plasmon Ltd.:London] 1904 (p. 9)

"Milk powder: is dessicated milk, either 'whole' or 'skim,' sold in bulk and canned. It is used principally by bakers and manufacturers of milk chocolate. 'Whole milk' powder contains from 25% to 27% fat, 30% to 32% protein and 30% to 32% milk sugar."
---Grocer's Encyclopedia, Artemas Ward [National Grocer:New York] 1911 (p. 386)

[20th century: commercial powdered milk]
"From the late nineteenth century on, manufacturers were looking into the possibility of converting unsoured milk into a form still more durable than canned milk, and cheaper to handle and package in large volumes. Early versions had a sweetish, cooked flavor, slightly mitigated as the technology improved. The Great Depression and World War II brought about large-scale diversion of milk surpluses, in dried form, to domestic food-assistance programs and international relief agencies. These are still the mainstays of the industry. Huge amounts also find their way into commercial confectionery, baked goods, canned soups, frozen foods, and many more uses... nowadays dried milk solids are often used to 'enrich' commercial skim milk...for decades, a stubborn drawback discouraged retail sales of dried milk: the difficulty of dissolving the powder quickly and smoothly in cold water. The problem was solved in the mid-1950s by a new technique of getting the powdered grains to aggregate in minute crystals. Millions of consumers took to instant dried milk as a thrifty alternative to fresh milk. For a while it was the darling of the nutrition-minded recipe developers, who encouraged home cooks to put supposedly vitalizing doses of dried milk into sauces, puddings, and breads. Another technical problem was more intractable: the tendency of milkfat to develop spoiled or harsh flavors in the drying process. Dairy processors did find solutions, but they were expensive enough to make mass-produced whole dried milk economically infeasible. This is why virtually all commercial brands are non-fat, though there is some distribution of whole dried milk in health-food stores."
---Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages, Anne Mendelson [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 2008 (p. 81-82)

[1950s: nonfat powdered dairy creamers]
Pream was a nonfat powdered dairy creamer popular in the 1950s and 1960s. According to the records of the
US Patent and Trademark Office Pream beverage additive was introduced to the American public January 1, 1952 by Abbott Laboratories. The brand expired in the 1980s. Coffee Mate was introduced February 2, 1961.

Skim milk
Our research indicates people have been skimming fat off milk from the beginning of time forwards. The skimmed rich fatty substance was traditionally churned into butter or transformed into creamy cheeses. The leftover [skimmed] milk was traditionally regarded as inferior and discarded or consumed by the desperate poor. Into the late 19th century, skim milk continued to be regarded as questionable dairy by-product: devoid of nutritional content, desirable taste, and economic promise. Laws were passed to protect unsuspecting consumers against this chalky travesty being sold as "whole milk." Honest dairymen battled popular perception for economic survival. Health officials successfully lobbied Congress to enact the first Food and Drug laws [1906] to ensure proper labeling and public health. Impure milk was indeed a documented public health problem. The problem was not, however, connected with fat content.

During WWII skim milk flooded the American market in both liquid and dried forms. For obvious reasons. For the first time, commercial dairies & government agencies combined forces by actively promoted this particular dairy option as healthy and "all American." Folks farming Victory Gardens gladly gulped skim milk. Once the War was over, middle-class suburban baby-boomers fed their babies gallon after gallon of whole milk. In the 1960s-1970s the skim milk phoenix rose again. This time the product was marketed as a healthy alternative to the regular fat-filled variety. Thus initiating the long parade of low-fat grades we encounter today. In sum? If you're looking for an example of how a particular food has been used to promote political agenda, you'd be hard pressed to find a better specimen than skim milk.

English language evidence
The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) traces the first print evidence connecting the verb skim with the noun milk to the 15th century:
I. 1. a. trans. To clear (a liquid or a liquid mass) from matter floating upon the surface, usually by means of a special utensil; to deprive (milk) of cream by this method; to deal with (a pot, etc.) in this way. Also absol. (Cf. SCUM v. 1.) c1420 Liber Cocorum (1862) 50 ou shalt hit frye, In buttur wele skymmet wyturly. c1430 Two Cookery-bks. 22 Caste alle on a potte, & skym yt. c1450 M.E. Med. Bk. (Heinrich) 71 e ridde part of hony, boiled and skemed. 1548 ELYOT, Despumo, to skimme or clarifie any licour. 1570 LEVINS Manip. 131 To Skimme, despumare. 1590 SHAKES. Mids. N. II. i. 36 Are you not hee That..Skim milke, and sometimes labour in the querne? 1611 COTGR., Escumer,..to skimme, or clarifie, liquor. 1744 BERKELEY Siris 1 The clear water, having been first carefully skimmed. 1771 E. HAYWOOD New Present for Maid 32 When it boils, skim it clean. 1826 Art Brewing (ed. 2) 114 Boil the first mash one hour... Then skim and cleanse. c1850 Arab. Nts. (Rtldg.) 643 Morgiana..put the pot on the fire to make the broth, but while she was skimming it the lamp went out. 1879 Cassell's Techn. Educ. IV. 49/1 When the lead is all melted it is skimmed, and then drawn off into the mould.

The OED dates the print term "skim milk" in our language to 1596:
"[f. SKIM v. + MILK n.] 1. Milk with the cream skimmed off or otherwise removed. Also in fig. context. 1596 SHAKES. 1 Hen. IV, II. iii. 36 (Qq.), I could deuide my selfe, and go to buffets, for mouing such a dish of skim milke [1623 folio skim'd Milk] with so honorable an action. a1712 W. KING Misc. Poems, The Old Cheese, This is Skim-milk, and therefore it shall go. 1799 A. YOUNG Agric. Linc. 297 He..gives first new, then skim milk. 1808 CURWEN Econ. Feeding Stock 63 The skim-milk was included in the butter account. 1851 MAYHEW Lond. Lab. I. 382/1 He lived principally upon parritch and skim milk. 1897 Allbutt's Syst. Med. III. 132 If fat be removed from the milk as in skim milk, rickets follows. fig. 1778 The Love Feast 11 Craft's blue skim-Milk is best for Tools to lap. 1872 Punch 4 May 180/2 The genuine outpouring of the milk and cream, and none of the skim-milk of human kindness. 1898 Westm. Gaz. 14 Nov. 7/1 The idea prevailed that the cream had been extracted from the..revelations, leaving little but skim milk behind."

[1875]

"A construction of the Butter and Cheese law of Illinois, passed in 1869, has been given by the State Supreme Court. The Chicago Tribune says that it settles the legal status of 'skim-milk,' as the housewives called it. There are a great many uses to which this article of dairy refuse may be put, as milk consumer in large cities can testify to their sorrow, but there is a point where the watery stuff ceases to be legal tender. While a farmer, accroding to the decision, may skim the milk on the top, bottom, and edge, and strip it of the last globule of cream when he sells it to a cheese manufacturer who does business on his own account, he must deliver the square article just as the cow yields it when it goes to a co-operative factory. The law was evidently enacted more for the benefit of the milk-producer than of the manufacturer, as, but the decision of the Supreme Court, its penalties operate only to prevent dairymen from swindling each other, leaving the rest of the commmunity to look out for themselves."
---"Skim-Milk in Illinois," New York Times, July 11, 1875 (p. 7)

[1881]

"Milkmen have suffered more annoyance and trouble from the [New York City] Board of Health than all other classes in the community put together. The action of the Board of Health has caused the milkmen to lose their self-resepct and the respect of the community at large...We have been searched, as though we were common criminals, and our propert [skim-milk] confiscated and destroyed. For ever child that has died in the city, unless it was struck by lightning or a lager-beer wagon, we are in some way held responsible...We don't claim..that skim-milk contains as much nourishment as full cream milk, nor do we ask that we may obtain the same price for it. But...we do claim the right to sell it as skim-milk. Skim -milk is preferable to cream or full-cream milk as a drink. Thousands of children are born in this City every year of inexperienced mothers. Such children are often sickly and need bracing up in order to rear them to manhood and womanhood. A child is given milk, and in the weak condition of its stomache it throws off the curd that forms. The mother rushes for the doctor, and he at once attacks the milkman as the cause of the trouble...We have cheap groceries, cheap dry goods, cheap labor, and each has its place in our community. Why not, then, have cheap milk?..the existing Sanitary Code resulted in the loss of 100,000 quarts of milk daily to the dairyman..."
---"Wonders of Skim-Milk," New York Times, September 14, 1881 (p. 8)

[1942]

"Greater production of dried milk will help win the war...The report...says that 61,000,000 quarts daily of separated milk, now of limited commercial value, could be turned into an asset...'No other single food of comparable cost can match dried skim milk in the quantities of calcium, protein and phosphorus found in a quart of this powdered milk.'...'The many demands at present for casein temporarily complicate the problem and, if the American people would awaken to the value of dried separated or skimmed milk, production would have to be stepped up very materially."
---"Dried Skim MIlk Seen As A Big War Asset," New York Times, March 10, 1942 (p. 14)

[1948]

"Though dry skim milk may not sound particularly enticing, it has been the outstanding news in this column in 1948. Directions for using it in a whipped topping and frozen desserts were the most popular offered this year...The idea of making a creamless 'ice cream' with dried skim milk was conceived by Mrs. Ruth P. Casa-Emellos, the Times' home economist. High in nutrients, especially calcium, and low in calories and cost, this is a smooth-textured dessert that tastes just as rich as standard ice cream."
---"News of Food: Dry Skim Milk Recipes Prove So Popular Many Appearing in 1948 are Repeated," New York Times, December 31, 1948 (p. 18)

[1954]

"There is magic in milk these days. A powder has appeared that, when combined with water, gives a liquid-mik instantly in a kind of presto-chango process. This immediately soluble powder is the latest edition of that familiar product, dry skim milk, or as it is technically termed, non-fat dry milk soluble. Up until now, home cooks could only reconstitute dehydrated milk with water by vigorous agitation. The fact that dry skim milk now dissolves as readily as soluble coffee obviously makes it easier to use and thus stengthens its appeal. The wider and stronger the appeal the better, say those concerned with family health, because dry skim milk is high in nutrients, low in cost--the thriftiest form available of a food that is indispensable in the American diet. Three manufacturers, now turning out instantly soluble dry skim milk, are trying with all speed to achieve national distrubution. They are the Borden Comapany, the Carnation Company and the Pet Milk Company...The new milk, like the older product, is one of the most economical sources of protein on the market; its protein is of the same high quality as that found in meat, poultry and fish...Skim milk is such a stock part of any reducing diet that it may seem a bit obvious to insert, by way of reminder, that the dry product is very low in calories...How does the liquified milk taste? If chilled, it is comparable to fresh skim milk. Those accustomed to whole milk find the skim product, whether or not it was derived from a dehydrated powder, a little sweet."
---"Powdered Milk Magic," Jane Nickerson, New York Times, October 17, 1954 (p. SM50)

[1964]

"Consumer use of skim milk continues to increase at a much sharper rate than that of whole milk. The Agriculture Department reports that sales of skim milk in 83 major fluid markets of the country in the first six months of this year were 12 percent above those of a year earlier.'"
---"Skim-Milk Sales Increases," New York Times, September 22, 1964 (p. 33)

[1991]

"All that the scientists at the Electric Power Research Institute were trying to do was find a way to conserve power in the dairy industry. But, inadvertantly, they may have developed a process that makes skim milk taste like whole milk. Instead of heating milk to drive off water to produce concentrate or powder, as is usually done, institute researchers and representatives of the Dairy Research Foundation called it. Some of the water formed ice crystals, which were filtered out. The resulting concentrate was reconstituted by adding water. The researchers were surprised to find that the resulting skim milk tasted better than normal skim milk. 'We put the water back in, and it tasted like whole milk.'...According to officials of the institute, freezing is a more energy-efficient means of concentrating milk and other dairy products than heat evaporation."
---"Can Skim Milk Taste Like Whole Milk," New York Times, August 14, 1991 (p. D5)

Recommended reading:

Sour milk
Today's American consumers equate "sour milk" with "spoiled milk. This is perfectly understandable to anyone who has sniffed "past due" milk products. When in doubt, throw it out. Our survey of historic newspaper articles confirm sour milk was a staple in homes before Pasteurization. The flavor was tangier and product was creamier than fresh (sweet) milk. Recipes incorporating this ingredient offered tangier flavor and smoother texture. Similar results were accomplished with
buttermilk, sour cream,yogurt & mayonnaise.

What is sour milk?
"This is whole or skim milk that is allowed to sour naturally."
---Joy of Cooking, Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker [Bobbs-Merrill Company:Indianapolis IN] 1975 (p. 533)

What's the difference between sour milk and spoiled milk?
"...[sour milk] results from unpasteurized or unscalded milk, because pasteurized or scalded milk will not sour, but simply spoil. Therefore, recipes which formerly call for sour milk now call for buttermilk."
---Joy of Cooking (p. 533)

How was sour milk used?
Invalid nourishment and baked good recipes.

Why don't we have sour milk anymore?
Most supermarkets sell Pasteurized product, not fresh milk. Pasteurized product does not sour. It spoils.

[20th century USA sour milk milestones]
In the early 20th century Nobel Prizewinner Dr. Metchnikoff connected extraodinary lifespans in Bulgaria with the consumption of sour milk. Today we think he meant yogurt, a related product. Sour milk was actively promoted in the USA and sold in drug stores.

[1907]
"There exists to-day a strong trend of opinion in favor of sour milk. In the last few years it has been the subject of numerous investigations by chemists and bacteriologists in the laboratory, as well as by doctors in the clinics. Considering the favorable results of these various studies, the use of sour milk as a wholesome food has rapidly increased these last few years, especially in Europe, where in almost all the largest cities the sale of sour milk, not only for hospitals, but as an article of daily diet, is very common. The question seems new in America, where the manufacturers still in small number, are taking advantage of the lack of competition and thus making of a wholesome food a fancy product. A pint of sour milk is sold for 25 cents, although made with skimmed milk. Nothing can justify this high price, and it is desirable to see this wholesome product put within the reach of every purse. Sour milk, as it is recommended to-day, possessing salutary properties, is made with milk which has been previously boiled, in order to destroy all harmful bacteria, and started with a pure culture of specific lactic acid ferment. When fermentation is complete--the time required is different with the kind of culture used, and according with the specific lactic ferment used--a curd more or less consistent is formed, sweetened, when it is fresh, about usually slightly sour, with an agreeable taste and aroma. The term bacteria has, in the popular mind, the meaning of evil. It has been conclusively demonstrated to-day that human beings and animals cannot live without intestinal bacteria. There exist harmful and useful bacteria, and it is necessary, in order to combat the chances of evil, to fight the former and multiply the latter...Nothing is older than the use of sour milk, and nothing seems newer than the applications which have been recently made of it. Mention of sour milk is made in the Bible...Inquiry on the subject seems to show that civilized people are the only ones to use raw or boiled milk, while sour milk is almost the only kind used outside the pale of our civilization."
---"The Sour Milk Fad: Scientific Basis on Which Popularity of the Beverage Rests," Washington Post, November 27, 1907 (p. 9)

[1910]
"The fashionable craze of the moment is neither drinking or aviation, but the drinking of sour milk or the munching of specially prepared tabloids, charged with sour milk bacteria. The craze began a little while ago with the publication of Dr. Reinhardt's book, 'One Hundred and Twenty Years of Life,' in which he detailed Prof. Metchinikoff's theory that sour milk prepared according to the Bulgarian plan is the real elixir of life. Dr. Metchnikoff, the famous pathologist of the Pasteur Institute of Paris, was much struck when visiting Bulgaria to find that in many of the country parts the proportion of centenarians was greater than anywhere else. He started to investigate the cause and came to the conclusion that the long life of the people was due ot the fact that they used sour milk in their daily dietary. This milk, prepared by means of a living culture of lactic acid form of bacilli, destroys putrefactive organisms in the human stomach, so at least D. Metchnikoff maintained...Every chemist shop is full of sour milk lozenges and chocolates. Every careful wife is urging her husband to drink specially prepared Metchnikoff milk that is sold by the leading dairy companies at fabulous prices. Cooks have a fresh burden added to their lives by being asked to prepare sour milk at home, a process taking many hours and much careful regulation of temperature. Meanwhile the folk to whom an expenditure of from $2 to $5 a head for specially prepared sour milk is impossible can obtain much the same result by drinking buttermilk."
---"Sour Milk Drink Craze," Washington Post, February 20, 1910 (p. M3)
[NOTE: Nobel Prize winning yogurt.]

During the Great Depression sour milk was promoted as a viable alternative for sweet/fresh milk. Newspaper food columns sell "old fashioned sour milk" on three points: health, econonmy, and versatility. Recipes and instructions suggestthis generation was unfamiliar with the product and how to use it.

[1931]
"I have had a number of letters recently asking why we specify the use of sour milk in some of our recipes when it is impossible to make milk sour in the ordinary city household. I acknowledge that the term 'sour' milk is not as definite as it should be... In trying to sour milk the housewife follows the old farm method--sets the milk in a warm place and lets it stand for a day or so. But she cannot obtain a milk of the good old fashioned sour milk flavor with the pasteurized milk. The reason is that a number of the lactic acid bacteria (the beneficial bacteria in milk) are killed along with the harmful ones in pasteurization. And not enough of them are left to produce a pronounced lactic acid flavor when the milk is given an opportunity to sour. When I develop or test a recipe that demands the use of a sour milk I use buttermilk."
---"Three Meals a Day," Meta Given, Chicago Daily Tribune, April 20, 1931 (p. 22)

[1932]
"Did a thunderstorm really sour the milk? Or did we forget to take it in off the porch till eleven yesterday morning? We'd like to blame the thunderstorm--but we suspect that the fault lies in too much sun before our bottles found their way to the refrigerator. But no matter-- in fact, sour milk and cream to the creative cook should be a signal for cheers, for they both have enthralling possibilities for dishes and baked stuffs just a bit different and to many tastes, a bit better than other foods. Sour milk breads and cakes seem to offer a tender texture and an indescribable flavor almost impossible to equal...For use in cooking, it is important that sour milk or cream be really sour--not just off flavor. On the other hand, throw out all that grows bitter...It has been found better to force the souring a little, for it if occurs slowly less variable types of bacteria also will have a chance to grow and the flavor will be changed. Therefore, keep the milk to be soured at room temperature until it thickens. Another point. In measuring out sour milk, make sure that you are getting equal parts of curds and whey. To do this, simply whip them together quickly with an egg beater until all parts are mixed, and measure out immediately. It is pleasantly simple to substitute sour milk for sweet in many bread and cake recipes if we remember to make a few other changes. For instance, for good our milk, allow one-half teaspoon soda for a cup of milk. More, of course, will be needed if the recipe also calls for molasses, which in itself is somewhat acid...Also, if we are substituting sour cream for milk, we are adding excess fat and therefore must reduce the fat considerably in our recipe."
---"Sour Milk and Cream Inspire Creative Cook," Mary Meade, Chicago Tribune, June 7, 1932 (p. 18)

World War II-era cookbooks promote sour milk for its flavor and texture. Instructions for "souring" milk suggest the itemis not generally available for sale.

[1942]
"When you begin tightening the family purse strings you will find there are many short cuts to good cooking that help save pennies here and there. Take the sour milk you prefer to certain breads, cakes and biscuits, because of the other tender texture, the delicate, moist quality sour milk gives the home-baked product. Sour milk savings are a part of our American tradition. In recent years, though, sour milk has become less commonplace, for with our fine refrigeration milk seldom turns sour as nature intended it should...Now when we want to do some good old-fashioned baking we must buy sour milk or buttermilk. Since we seldom see the whole bottle some of it is sure to be wasted. To eliminate these leftovers, and at the same time assure successful baking, you can make your own sour milk as you need it by adding vinegar to the sweet milk you have on hand. Here is a general rule to follow: Add two tablespoons pure cider vinegar gradually to one cup of sweet milk stirring constantly. If possible let it stand an hour before using, so that it will thicken up slightly."
---"Sour Milk Substitute Big Saving," Marian Manners, Los Angeles Times, September 14, 1942 (p. A7)

"Sour Milk is often needed for the invalid, for cooking or baking. It can be made for fresh milk by the addition of 2 tablespoons white vinegar or lemon juice to each pint of milk. Allow to stand in a fairly warm place at room temperature for one-half your, thenreturn to refrigerator. The same proportions obtain for evaporated or irradiated evaporated milk after it has been diluted one-halfaccording to directions. In baking, use one-half teaspoon soda for every cup of sour milk or cream."American Woman's Cook Book, edited and revised by Ruth Berolzheimer, Director, Culinary Arts Institute [Garden City Publishing Co.:New York] 1942, Wartime edition (p. 31-32)
[NOTE: This book also offers instructions for Pasteurizing milk at home (p. 32).]

[1947]
"Our traditional respect for sour milk in baking has real foundation in cookery science. Like many another accepted household practice that grandmother learned in the school of experience, the use of sour milk now is explained to granddaughter in her chemistry classes. The mild acid, called lactic acid, in sour milk and sour cream does a number of things in batters and doughs--all of them on the right side of the cookery accounts."
---"Science Tells 'Why' of Sour Milk, Cream," Marian Manners, Los Angeles Times, April 16, 1947 (p. A5)

"Sour milk" is maligned when it is used as a synonym for "spoiled" or "bad" product.

[1961]
"Under pressure of consumer complaints about sour milk, Chicago dairies have promised the board of health and Mayor Daley they will remove milk from dealers' shelves if it is not sold within 96 hours after pasteurization...Chicago is only one of a handful of cities with populations of more than 100,000 that still had dating ordinances, before the legislature several weeks ago granted the dairies' request to eliminate the dating requirement. The diaries and dairy farmers maintained that the practice of stamping the name of a day on the container to indicate when the milk was pasteurized curtailed consumption and added to distribution costs. They pointed out that modern sanitation requirements, refrigeration, and distribution facilities have outmoded dating as a measure to protect public health."
---"Sour Milk," Chicago Daily Tribune, October 3, 1961 (p. 10)
[NOTE: In this article the term "sour milk" refers to "spoiled milk."]

Our survey of USA culinary literature suggests "sour milk" was generally promoted as a variation of traditional recipes. Think: sour milk waffles, muffins, cakes, and cookies. Chemical leavening proprtions required adjustment based on the higher level of acid in themilk.

[1930]
"Sour Milk Cookies.
Use recipe for Old-Fashioned Sugar Cookies, substituting thick sour milk for sweet milk. Reduce four to 2 1/2 cups, omit 2 teaspoons baking powder, and add 1/2 teaspoon soda.

"Old-Fashioned Sugar Cookies
1/2 cup shortening
1 cup sugar
1 egg
3 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Cream shortening and sugar thoroly; add egg and beat well. Sift flour, salt, and baking pwoder and add alternately with milk andvanilla. Mix thoroly. Roll on lighthly floured surface to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut with floured cooky cutter and place on greased bakingsheet. Sprinkle with sugar if desired. Bake in moderate oven (350 degrees) about 15 minutes. (Makes 3 dozen cookies)"
---My New Better Homes and Gardens Cook Book, revised 5th edition, [Meredith Publishing:Des Moines IA] 1930 (chapter V, p. 16)

[1932]
"Sour Milk Chocolate Cake

"1 cup fat.
2 cups brown sugar.
1/2 teaspoon salt.
3 eggs, separated.
4 ounces (4 squares) chocolate, melted.
3 cups flour.
1 cup sour milk.
1/2 teaspoon soda.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
1/2 cup chopped nuts.
Cream the sugar and fat till smooth and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks and salt and stir two minutes. Add the sifted flour and baking powderalternatively with the sour milk into which the soda has beeen stirred. Stir in the melted chocolate and the nuts, then fold in the stiffly beatenegg whites. Turn into a large greased pan and bake in a moderate oven [350 degrees F.] about forty minutes."
---"Sour Milk and Cream Inspire Creative Cook," Mary Meade, Chicago Tribune, June 7, 1932 (p. 18)
[NOTE: Compare with
Chocolate Mayonnaise Cake.]

[1942]
"Sour Milk Doughnuts

1 cup sugar
2 tablesoons sour cream or shortening
3 eggs
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
1 cup sour milk
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
4 1/2 cups sifted flour (more or less)
Mix sugar with cream and add beaten egs, lemon extract and sour milk. Sift remaining dry ingredients with 1 cup of the flour and addto first mixture. Add additional flour to make a dough just stiff enough to handle. Toss on floured board, roll out and cut. Fry in hot deep fat (365 degrees F.). Makes 2 dozen."
---American Woman's Cook Book, edited and revised by Ruth Berolzheimer, Director, Culinary Arts Institute [Garden City Publishing Co.:New York] 1942, Wartime edition (p. 128)

"Sour Milk Pudding
1 quart sour milk
3 eggs
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 tablespoon lemon-juice
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
Heat the milk slowly until it separates, and drain the whey from the curd. Add the eggs, powdered sugar, and lemon-juice to the curd, and beat thorougly. Caramelize the granulated sugar and pour it into a mold. Add the curd mixture and bake the pudding for twenty minutes."
---ibid (p. 633)

Related foods? Yogurt, sour cream & buttermilk.

When was milk first sold to consumers by the gallon?
Historic newspapers and industry publications return references to milk sold in "gallon jugs" from 1939 forwards. Earliest print references suggest this larger container was developed and promoted to save the consumer money (buy in bulk). Industry articles examine the requirements for launching the new larger size. Dairies, traditionally fitted for pint, quart and half gallons would have to be retooled to accommodate the larger volume unit. The U.S. Department of Agriculture studied the economic and health aspects of this industry development. There was much controversy on a state-by-state basis about selling milk in gallon jugs. Pro: consumer savings Con: costly retrofit & less profit for dairies. By the late 1940s, gallon jugs were available in some, but not all places. Gallon milk jugs were debated by legislators and settled in courts. Some period newspapers imply gallon jugs were sold to consumers before theybecame "legal." General industry acceptance appears to occur in the late 1950s. By the early 1960s the gallon jug is ubiquitous.

Milk Plant Monthly, an industry publication, offers several articles detailing the gallon jug debate and related issues. Samples:"Development and present status of the big milk bottle; market requirements, practices, and onions of milk dealser to the gallon jug and the half gallon bottle," [September, 1939] & "The Gallon Jug," T.M. Shorts [December 1940].Citations to this publication, and related resources, from the U.S. Department of Agriculture's report The Marketing of Dairy Products 1936-1940 . NOTE: Milk Plant Monthly is not avialable free on the Internet or from article databases. Use WorldCat to identfy holding libraries. Your local public librarian can help you obtain copies of specific articles. FT library does not own this publication.

[1939]
"The California Supreme Court yesterday after lengthy arguments by Asst. Atty. Gen. Walter L. Bowers, took under submission, with indications of an early decision, the co-called'gallon jug' case concerning milk prices in Los Angeles County and elsewhere in the state. Early last year Superior Judge Charles D. Ballard permanently enjoined the then Directorof Agriculture, A.A. Brock, from enforcing any of the provisions of the Milk Stabilzation Act, providing for minimum prices to producers and minimum wholesale andretail prices for fluid milk. The original action was brought by G.S. Ray and numerous other plaintiffs, selling milk from dairy stores, mostly in gallon containers. They claimed they shoudl bepermitted a lesser price than regular retail stores thus becoming known as the 'gallon jug' group. Judge Ballard held the statute unconstituional, and ruled that the director had failed to comply with the same from its inception and operation of the law in Los Angeles County in 1939. Since Judge Ballard's ruling the Supreme Court, in the so calledJersey Milk Products case versus Brock, held that the act is constitutional. The director then appealed the Ray case."
---"Milk Fight Nears Finale: Early Decision Seen in Controversy ofer Gallon-Jut Price," Los Angeles Times, December 8, 1939 (p. A12)
[NOTE: Jersey Maid Milk Products v Brock.]

[1950]
"Milwaukee, the only big city in Wisconsin, the self-labeled 'America's dairyland,' is the scene of a milk price war. Price cutting on gallon mik sales hasspread to most major dairies here, enabling their retailers to sell for 47 cents a gallon, down 4 cents. Retailers of one out-of-the-city dairy were selling at 45 cents."
---"Buy by the Gallon: Milk Price War Hits Milwaukee, Wis.," Wall Street Journal, April 8, 1950 (p. 3)

[1955]
"A bill providing for the sale of mlk in New York state in one gallon containers was introduced tonight by Assemblyman Stanley Steingut of Brooklyn. The measure, which would besubject to approval of the New York City Board of Health if enacted by the Legislature, was proposed as a way to provide consumers a more economical method ofbuying milk. Mr. Steingut submitted figures showing that in other communities, including Chicago and Milwaukee, gallon containers had been substituted for those oflesser quantity and proved popular. Thirty-seven per cent of milk sold in Chicago is sold in the gallon containers, he said. Moreover, the prices at which it was sold in Chicagoaveraged 1 3/4 cents to 3 cents a quart less than milk sold in quart containers, he added."
---"Milk by Gallon Urged in Albany," New York Times, January 11, 1955 (p. 28)

[1957]
"A differnece of opinion has arisen in the Legislature over the desirability and necessity of enacting the 'gallon jug' bill. The measure would make clear that milk could be sold in gallon container. The bill went through the Assembly three weeks ago without any difficulty. Since then it has been with the Senate Agriculture Committee. On of the objections beingraised to the bill is that it is uncessary because of the Court of Appeals decision a hear about in the Defiance Milk case. The suit involved a successful challenge of a state lawprohibiting the sale of condesnsed skimmed milk in containers holding less than ten pounds...Senator Henry Wise, Republican of Watertown, sponsored the 'gallon jug'bill in the upper house. 'What we are trying to do is to increase the availabiltiy and consumption of milk and this might hel.' he said."
---"State Debates Need of Gallon MIlk Bill," New York Times, March 5, 1957 (p. 22)

"The 'gallon jug' bill was approved unanimously by the Senate today. It goes to Governor Harriman. The measure is designed to bake clear that milk may be sold legallyin four-quart containers. Governor Harriman vetowed a similar measure last year as unnecessary, but it is reported that he will approve the bill this year. Milk in gallon containers is sold in Buffalo, according to the Department of Agriculture and Markets...Some milk dealers have opposed the 'gallon jug' bill because of the costinvolved in acquiring the larger containers and in setting up the machinery to fill and cap them."
---"Gallon Jug Bill Voted," New York Times, March 19, 1957 (p. 27)

[1956]
"Virginia's three-man Milk Commission will open a public hearing in Richmond today on the question of setting a price for the sale of milkthroughout the state in gallon containers. The last General Assembly authorized the sale of milk in the jumbo containers, but left the price to the commission. By law the commission must agree on the per-gallon price before the new containers become legal this summer. Thehearing promises to engender as much controversy as has the price governing Virgina milk sales in half-gallon containers. A spokesman for the Milk Distributors Association of Virginia said he failed to see how the per gallon price could be set lower than the 94 cents retailers receive for the same quantity of milk now sold either by the quart or in two half-gallon containers. On the other hand,C.Y. Stephens, owner of High's Dairy Products Corp., which operates 17 retail outlets in the area, said he will continue to press for a 78 cents gallon. Stephens said he will appear before the commission today with cost figures 'I don't see how they can laugh off.'..Since the sale of milk in the half-gallon containers became legal in Virginia last fall...the High Co. has donated the extra 8 centsper half-gallon it receives on its Virginia sales to charity. It has contributed thus far more than $12,500 to the Community Chest and the Salvation Army, he said."
---"Battle Looms on Gallon Milk Prices," Washington Post and Times Herald, March 29, 1956 (p. 6)

Mint julep
Mint Julep is heralded by some as the quintessential American co*cktail. Built on bourbon, it is traditionally connected withthe American South and Appalachian regions. It is no accident Mint Juleps are the official drink of the
Kentucky Derby. Like many alcoholic beverages, Mint Juleps were sometimes recommended for medicinal purposes.

What is mint julep?
"To twentieth-century drinkers a julep is a product of the Deep South of the USA...a strong but refreshing mixture of Kentuckybourbon or rye whiskey and sugar, poured over ice, and flavoured typically with sprigs of fresh mint. It was not always so,however. Originally, a julep was any sweet syrupy drink, often one used as a vehicle for medicine (William Buchan's DomesticMedicine (1789) mentions 'cordial julep, expectorating julep and misk julep'). In that sense, the term has long since passedinto limbo, but it may survive dialectally in the slightly altered from jollop, 'medicine'. The word julep comes viaArabic julab from Persian gulab, which meat literally 'rose-water.'"
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 173)
[NOTE: Sample 19th century medicinal recipe.]

"Mint Julep. A co*cktail made from bourbon, sugar, and mint. It is a classic drink of Kentucky and is traditionally served at therunning of the Kentucky Derby on the first Saturday in May. The word first appeared printed in John Davis's Travels of Four Years and a Half in the United States (1803) as a 'dram of spiritous liquor that has mint in it, taken by Virginians in the morning.' Theorigin of the word 'julep'...indicates a very sweet concoction known since the fifteenth century. Mint juleps were known in theUnited States by the end of the eighteenth century, long before bourbon became the ingredient most associated with thedrink, and one will find mint juleps made with whiskeys other than bourbon, though this would be heresy in the state of Kentucky, where there is also great debate as to whether the mint leaves should be crushed in the traditional silver mug."
---Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 206)

"Americans in Virginia, according to Richard Barksdale Harwell, the author of The Mint Julep, added spirits in 1878 and mintin 1803 and originated the mint julep. Deciding that the English might like this new version, Captain Frederick Marryat, who had been traveleingin America, reintroduced the mint julep to the English in 1837. Marryat noted that the mint julep is 'one of the most delightful and insinuating potations that ever was invented.' The first mint julep recipes called for brandy or rum, but localwhiskey, frequently home-distilled rye or bourbon soon became the spirits of choice. Charles Joseph Latrobe, who described the mintjulep in 1833 at a meeting of the Anti-Temperance Society in Saratoga, Florida, declared the mint must be unbruised. JerryThomas, in How to Mix Drinks, which was published in 1862, called for bruising the mint. The issue is still being debated. Both Latrobe and Thomas called for filling a tumbler or glass with shaved ice. Preparation of mint julep is seeped inceremony and is a symbol of southern hospitality...Although the mint julep is appreciated throughout the South, Kentuky, proudof its bourbon, popularized the drink in the twentieth century. The years and date are unknown, but a letter written by JudgeSoule Smith in the late nineteenth century makes clear that Kentucky bourbon should be the whiskey of choice for a mintjulep. Mint julep in a glass maked 'Kentucky Derby' was first served in the dining room at Churchill Downs, home of the derby, in 1938."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2(p. 117-118)

[1803]
"In a footnote [John] Davis defines 'julep'...'A dram of spiritous liquor that has mint in it, taken by Virginians in the morning.'"---The Mint Julep, Richard Barksdale Harwell [University of Virginia Press:Charlottesville VA] 1975, 2005 (p. 7)
[NOTE: footnote provides original reference: Travels of Four Years and a Half in the United States of America in 1798, 1799,1800, 1801 and 1802, A.J. Morrison.]

[1845: British aristocracy acknowledges this unique American beverage]
"Mint Julep, An American Receipt.

Strip the tender leaves of mint into a tumbler, and add to them as much wine brandy, or any other spirit, as you wish to take. Putsome pounded ice into a second tumbler; pour this on the mint and brandy, and continue to pour the mixture from one tumbler to the other until thewhole is sufficently impregnated with the flavour of the mint, which is extracted by the particles of the ice coming into brisk contact when changed from one vessel to the other. Now place the glass in a larger one, containing pounded ice: on taking it out of which it will becovered with frost-work.' Obs.--We apprehend that this preparation is, like most other iced American beverages, to be imbibed througha reed: the receipt, which was contributed by an American gentleman, is somewhat vague."
---Modern Cookery for Private Families, Eliza Acton, 1845 facsimile reprint with an introduction by Elizabeth Ray [SouthoverPress:East Sussex] 1993 (p. 481)
[NOTE: From this description, we presumably a "reed" was a straw.]

[1862]
"Juleps.
The julep is peculiary an American beverage, and in the Southern states is more popular than any other. It wasintroduced into England by Captain Marryatt, where it is now quite a favorite. The gallant captain seems to have had a penchant forthe nectareous drink, and published the recipe in his work on America. We got it in his own words: "I must decant a little upon the mintjulep, as it is, with the thermometer at 100 degrees, one of the most delightful and insinuating potations that ever was invented, andmay be drunk with equal satisfaction when the thermometer is as low as 70 degrees. There are many varieties, such as those composed ofclaret, Madeira, &c.; but the ingredients of the real mint julep are as follows. I learned how to make them, and succeeded pretty well. Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint, upon them put a spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and common brandy, so as to fill it up one-third, or perhaps a little less. Then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up thetumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumber with a piece of fresh pineapple, and the tumbler itself is very often incrusted outsidewith stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink. I once overheard two ladies taliking in the next room to me, and one of themsaid, 'Well, if I have a weakness for any one thing, it is for a mint julep!'--a very amiable weakness, in fact, like the American ladies, irresistable.'

188. Mint Julep
(Use large bar glass)
1 table-spoonful of white pulverized sugar.
2 1/2 do ["do" means ditto, same measure as above]water, mix wll with a spoon.
Take three or four sprigs of fresh mint, and prress them well in the sugar and water, until the flavor of the mint is extracted; add one and a half wine-glass of Cognac brandy, and fill the glass with fine shaved ice, then draw out the sprigs of mint and insert them in the ice with the stems downward, so that the leaves will be above, in the shape of a bouquet; arrangeberries, and small pieces of sliced orange on top in a tasty manner, days with Jamaica rum, and sprinkle white sugar on top. Placea straw as represented in the cut, and you have a julep that is fit for an emperor."
---How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-Vivant's Companion, Jerry Thomas, facsimile 1862 edition [Dick & Fitzgerald:New York] reprinted by Vintageco*cktailBooks.com 2008 (p. 43-44)
[NOTE: This book also offers recipes for Brandy Julep, Gin Julep, Whiskey Julep & Pineapple Julep.]

[1882]
"Mint Julep

Some sprigs of green mint, slightly bruised in a tumbler with a teaspoon. Put in a generous teaspoonful of white sugar; addgradually, stirring and rubbing lightly, enough water to fill the glass three-quarters of the way to the top. Fill up with poundedice; stir hard; pour into a larger glass that you may shake up well, and put in two tablespoonfuls fine brandy. This is called a'hail-storm julep.'"
---Common Sense in the Household, Marion Harland [Charles Scribner's Sons:New York] 1882 (p. 511)
[NOTE: This recipe is included in the chapter titled: "The Sick-Room." It does not tell us which sickness this is prescribedfor. Other alcoholic beverages are Apple Toddy ("take hot at bed-time for influenza") and Sangaree or Porteree ("Taken hotk, it is good for a sudden cold.")

[1904]
"Pendennis Club Mint Julep

By a well-known member of the club, Louisville, Ky.
There are some essentials:
1st. Fine, straight, old Kentucky Bourbon whisky--blended whiskies do not give good results.
2d. An Abundant supply of freshly cut sprigs of mint--prefereably young shoots--no portion of which has been bruised.
3d. Dry, cracked flint ice. A glass will answer the purpose, but a silver mug is preferable. At this club, silver cups are kept on ice. A syrup of sugar and water is also kept on hand.
The silver cup is first filled with the ice, and then the desired quantity of fine whisky poured in and thooughly shaken with a spoon or shakeruntil a heavy frost forms on the mug. The desired amount of syrup is then poured in and stirred enough to be mixed. The mint is then carefullyplaced in the mugs and the stems barely sticking in the ice and the tops projecting 2 inches above the top of the cup. Straws are then placed in thecup, reaching from the bottom to about 1 inch above the top, and the sooner one sticks one's nose in the mint and begins drinking thoughthe straws the better. There is no flavor of mint, merely the odor. Any stinting in quality or quantity materilally affects the result."
---The Blue Grass Cook Book, compiled by Minnie C. Fox, new introduction by Toni Tipton-Martin [University of Kentucky Press:Lexington KY] 1904, 2005 (p. 288-289)

[1939]
"Now, gentlemen, at long last are eight or so Mint Julep ceremonies--Being various adaptations of this peerless American conception from allparts of the world where it is properly revered. Right from the meaning of the word Juleps have been a spill-and-pelt ofcontradition and disagreement...The very name itself never was midwifed on any honeysuckle-bowered southern balcony, but comes fromthe Persian gulab, or Arab julab, meaning rose water....No sane Kentucky planter, in full posession of his faculties will yield an inchto any Marylander when it comes to admitting rye is superiour to bourbon in a Julep, when actually, a Julep is international and hasbeen international for years--just as the matters of radio and flying are international. It is a drink composed of whiskey or brandy--and, of late--rum; sweetened, iced, and flavoured with aromatic leaves of the mentha family. So before the shooting starts let'sexplain right here and now that there's no more chance of getting the various Julep schools to agree on fabrication of the mostdelectiable of drinks, than we have of getting a proud Atlanta great-grandmother to concede General Sherman a nice, gentlye, well-meaining,big boy. First of all there is the silver cup versus the glass school; the chilled glass versus room-temperature school; the slightly bruised mintversus the all-bruised school; the rye versus the bourbon school; the fruit garnish versus the plain school. Feuds have begin because someonebreathed the possibility that city water would make a Julep as well as water dipped from a fern-draped Blue Grass spring.Men have been shot att for heaping fruit juices, slices of citrus, and maraschino cherries on a Julep completed. Families have faceddivorcement about the slight-appearing concern of red-stemmed mint. A gentleman who discards the slightly bruised mint fromhis drink views another who permits the bruised leaves to remain in the glass as one who did not have quite the proper forbearanced onthe distaff side...And so they tell the tale--Getting right down to cases, there is no more need for argument of violent nature alongsuch lines...On this matter of Juleps we can boast to a thorough Julep research, without pride or prejudice, for we have put in some yearsof mightly clinical home-work on the matter!...But the best Julep of all, up to date---was mixed by Monk Antrim's...Manila Hotels, Luzon, P.I., and A.D.1926."
---The Gentleman's Companion, Being an Exotic Drinking Book, Charles H. Baker, Jr. [Crown Publishers:New York] 1939, 1946 (p. 61-62)

Pendennis Club Mint Julep...Martin Cuneo has for many years manufactured his own conception of a proper mint Julep tomembers of Louisville's famous Pendennis Club...There are several minor varations in the gentle art of Juleping, and his is enough off the unusual track for inscription here--as he does not bruise mint, even slightly. Take a sixteen ounce silver Julep cup, or the same in class. Into thebottom put a lump of sugar and dissolve it in a little spring or well water. Choose the tenderest mint sprigs and toss inthree-arranging them in the bottom, and don't crush or bruise at all. Fill the chalice with finely crushed ice. Turn in twojiggers of the best old bourbon the cellar can afford, and stir once to settle. Add enough more ice to fill; a complete small bundle oftender mint comes next, trimmming the stalks fairly short, so as to give out their aromatic juices into the Julep. Place in the ice, and stand aside for a few minutes to frost and acquire general merit."
---ibid (p. 67-6)
[NOTE: This book offers "a few common sense rules" for making perfect Juleps (9 rules in all), and Mint Julep recipes from MonkAntrim's Manila Hotel (bourbon or rye), Santiago Cuba (Bacardi), Lamarr Peach Brandy Mint Julep, Peach Thunderbold (Georgia),& Manila Polo Club (rum)]

[1946]
"Mint Julep

2 oz. bourbon
1 tsps. sugar
4 sprigs mint
Mash with muddler. Fill the silver mug with shaved ice, Stir until the outside of the mug is frosted. Decorate with sprigs of mint and servewith straws. Add green cherry."
---The Stork Club Bar Book, Lucius Beebe [Rinehart & Commpany:New York] 1946 (p. 106)

Mobby & mauby
The ingredients of this New World beverage depend upon time and place.

According the Oxford English Dictionary [online edition], the term "Mobby" has several different meanings. All of them point to fermented beverages made from various ingredients, including: sweet potatoes, ginger, apples or pears. In keeping with the times, spelling variations are rampant. Notes here:Forms: 16 mabby, 16 mobbi, 16- mobbie, 16- mobby, 18- mobee Brit. / mo m bi/, U.S. / bi/. [Origin uncertain. Perhaps Carib mabi sweet potato (1665 in R. Breton Dict. Caraibe-Franois), although this is not found in other Carib sources. Compare MAUBY n.] 1. Caribbean. a. An alcoholic drink made from sweet potatoes. Now hist. 1638 T. VERNEY in V. Papers (1853) 194 This as we call mobby is only potatoes boyled, and then pressed as hard as they can till all the juce is gon out of the root into fayre water, and after three houres this is good drink. 1657 R. LIGON True Hist. Barbados 31 The first [drink], and that which is most used in the Iland, is Mobbie, a drink made of Potatoes. a1726 H. BARHAM Hortus Americanus (1794) 153 Potatoes, or Batatas... An excellent drink is made of the roots, called mobby. 1750 G. HUGHES Nat. Hist. Barbados 34 (note) Mobby is a Drink made with pounded Potatoes, and Water fermented with Sugar or Molasses. 1826 H. N. COLERIDGE Six Months W. Indies (ed. 2) 42 (note) Their suppers being a few potatoes for meat, and water or mobbie to drink. 1961 F. G. CASSIDY Jamaica Talk 204 Mobbie..was originally made with sweet potatoes. 1984 William & Mary Q. 41 228 He wrote that the favorite drink on Barbados was mobbie, a beverage made from boiled potatoes. b. A drink made from ginger (see quot. 1859). Cf. MAUBY n. 1. Obs. 1833 MRS. A. C. CARMICHAEL Domest. Manners W. Indies II. xiv. 68 Ginger beer, mobee, and orgeat are always plentiful [in the market]. 1859 J. R. BARTLETT Dict. Americanisms (ed. 2), Mobee, a fermented liquor made by the negroes in the West Indies, prepared with sugar, ginger, and snake-root.2. N. Amer. The juice of apples or peaches, often fermented and used to make brandy. Also: the brandy itself, or a punch made with it (more fully mobbie punch). Obs. 1705 R. BEVERLEY Hist. Virginia IV. xxii. 78 Others make a Drink of them [sc. peaches], which they call Mobby, and either drink it as Cyder, or Distil it off for Brandy. 1722 R. BEVERLEY Hist. Virginia (ed. 2) IV. xvii. 254 Mobby Punch, made either of Rum from the Caribbee Islands, or Brandy distill'd from their Apples and Peaches. 1800 J. BOUCHER Glossary p. xlix, Mobbie; the liquid, as first expressed from the fruit, and which is afterwards distilled, and thus becomes peach or apple brandy. 1810 Inventory Estate S. E. Butler in Georgia Hist. Q. (1946) 52 218, 9 Mobby Stands..1 tight hogshead & 5 Casks..1 pr. Mill Stones. 1860 J. E. WORCESTER Dict. Eng. Lang., Mobby, the liquid or juice first expressed from apples and peaches, and afterwards distilled to make apple or peach brandy. 1871 M. SCHELE DE VERE Americanisms, Mobee or Mobby..is frequently applied in the South to what in England would be simply called a punch.

Caribbean maubey
"Q. When I visited the British Virgin Islands a few years ago I was served a root-beer-like home-brewed beverage that I found quite delicious. It was called mauby and was said to have derived from the bark of a mauby tree Do you know anything about this? A. I had never heard of mauby, but I found a recipe in The Complete Book of Caribbean Cooking, by Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz...The recipe consists of cooking mauby bark with water, cinnamon stick, cloves, dried orange peel and brown sugar."
---New York Times, November 3, 1982 (p. C10)

"Mauby. So far as I have been able to find out maube bark, sometimes mawby, in Spanish maubi, is the bark of the algarroba (carob) tree. It can be found in Puerto Rican or tropical markets. The drink made with the bark is popular as a refreshing soft drink in most of the islands.
3 ounces mauby bark
12 cups water
4-inch piece stick cinnamon
6 cloves
1-inch piece dried orange peel
4 cups brown sugar
Put the mauby bark into a saucepan with 2 cups of the water, the cinnamon, cloves, and orange peel and boil for about 20 minutes, or until the liquid is strongly flavored and biter. Strain. Add the rest of the water and the sugar and stir to dissolve the sugar. Bottle, leaving the neck of the bottle empty so there will be space for fermentation. Seal the bottles and leave for 3 or 4 days. Strain and chill thoroughly before serving in tumblers. Makes about 4 quarts."
---The Complete Book of Caribbean Cooking, Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz [M. Evans:New York] 1973 (p. 405)

Puerto Rican interpretation
"Mabi or Mavi (Colubrina Reclinata)
Mabi bark
1 orange peel
Anise seeds
Ginger root
3/4 pound sugar
The palo mabi is a shrub or low tree found in the mountains in all the Antilles. The wood is strong and used for building. The bark is used to make a drink called 'mabi' which is cooling, appetizing and its bitter qualities make it a remedy for indigestion. The bark can be bought in market or in the 'apothecary hall' as drug stores are called in some of the islands. Take a small handfull of mabi bark, the peel or one sweet orange, a pinch of anise seeds and a small 'hand' of ginger root, 3/4 pound of sugar and put on to boil with enough water to cover. Cook about twenty minutes and then add three quarts of water, set aside until the next day, when it will begin to 'work.' If you have a little left from a previous making, put it in and it will hasten the leaven. Do not cork the bottles but let the foam form on top. Put in the ice-box; an unequalled drink for warm weather and a fine stomach tonic."
---Puerto Rican Cook Book, Eliza B.K. Dooley [Dietz Press:Richmond VA] 1948 (p. 18-19)

LOCAL COMMERCIALIZATION"Mabi (fermented Caribbean beverage made from tree bark):This beverage is loved by people who are from Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic and Haiti. It has been made for generations, normally made at home and sold on local street corners. The bark from the mabi tree is boiled then sugar and other ingredients are added. Once the drink begins to ferment they drink it. It's supposed to lower blood pressure, reduce cholesterol and even make men more virile! The mabi drink has never been commercially available until now. Global Beverage realized that tens of millions of these ethnic customers could not get mabi here in the U.S., so after two years of research and development, they've reformulated the beverage, removing the alcohol and the fermentation odor, thus making it more enjoyable. Now even kids can have an ice cold mabi drink. Four-pack is $ 2.99. Single 12 fl oz bottles are .99 cents." Global Beverage EnterprisesSOURCE: drinkmabi.comMulled drinks
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word mulled, as it applies to the culinary world, was first printed in 1607. The word first applied to mulled wine, defined: "Of ale, wine, cider, etc.: Made into a sweetened and spiced hot drink andsometimes thickened with beaten yolk of egg."

"Hot spiced wine, often called "mulled wine," is typically made by simmering red, and occasionally white, wine with a mixtureof citrus (juice, slices, or zest from lemons or oranges) and virtually any combination of spices, including cinnamon, clove, allspice, ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, or mace. Wines ranging from dry table wines to sweet ports or fortified wines(strengthened with additional alcohol) are used...This beverage has an ancient history, stemming from early civilization of 5000 B.C.E. (Mesopotamia and Egypt) and subserquently Greece and Rome. Wines were sometimes infused with herbs and spices for a range of gastronomic, hallucinogenic, medicinal, religious, and preservation purposes. In medievalEurope wine was customarily consumed as a safer, healthier alternative to often-contaminated water. In colder climates, wine andother fermented beverages were sometimes heated to create longed-for and much-needed warmth...The introduction of tropical spices to medieval Europe opened the door to a wide range of flavors. Wildly expensive and exotic at the same time, they wereavailable only to the wealthy and were used to enrich the libation hippocras, the descendant of an ancient Roman drink.Hippocras was made from wine heated with honey, pepper, and many other spices, such as galingale (similar to ginger), andit was often consumed as an elixir at the end of a large feast. Although it occasionally appeared later in seventeenth-centurycookbooks, it had lost most of its high status and popularity by then. By the later part of the seventeenth century, European tradewith India and the Indonesian Spice Islands had begun to flourish...These tropical spices (such as cinnamon and nutmeg) beganto replace earlier European flavorings in heated wines and dramatically changed the taste and character of the wines. In addtion,,the British in India encountered a local spiced "paunch" (later called "punch"), a warmed beverage consisting of a fermenteddrink, sugar, water, citrus, and spices...These appeared in the American colonies as mulled wine, sometimes made with thickening raw eggs or yolks, which would be cooked by the hot wine. The resultant curdling was reminiscent of such otherperiod concoctions as possets, caudles, and syllabub. Many English, German, Dutch and Scandinavian emigrants who came to America brought these long-held traditions and prepared heated and spiced libations for winter festivals, in particular,Christmas...By the late 1800s these warmed spiced wines had become an integral part of the American Christmas menu, largely becauseof the strong influence of the middle nineteenth-century novel A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens. Hot spiced wine wasfrequently served alongside or in lieu of eggnog enjoyed at middle-class tables, sometimes with appropriate temperance substitutions of fruit juice."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 641-2)

Want to examine 18th-19th century American "mulled" recipes? Michigan State University's Feeding America digital cookbooks are perfect. There you will find recipes for mulled ale, cider, jelly & wine.

Punch
Early American cookbooks typically offer one or two recipes combining citrus fruit (typically lemons or limes) with rum and sugar. They are generally called punch. Some of these can be quite complicated. Ingredients vary according to availability; proportions vary according to taste. Primary documents (journals, letters, inventories, account books) may help you determine the full locus of ingredients and description of final product served in a given place by a specific person.

Why is it called "punch? & what were the 5 original ingredients?
"Punch in Hindi means five, and the first paunch, and then punch, was the name that eventually settled on the five-componentdrink made up at first of arrack, spices, sugar, lime juice and water. It was first noted by Mendelslo in AD 1638 as palepunzen inDutch, and became punch about fourty years later. In course of time, numerous recipes for the drink developed, including one with milk in it, described in AD 1823 in Madras. Punch houses were set up on Goa by the Portuguese, and later in Calcutta and Madras."
---A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, K.T. Achaya [Oxford University Press:Delhi] 1998 (p. 201)
[NOTE: Arrack was a distilled spirit made with fermented rice and molasses. It was made in the Far East and Middle East.]

"Punch. The vogue for punch started in England in the early seventeenth century, imported by officers of the East India Company.it was a traditional long drink in India, and its name is generally supposed to be of Indian origin, too. This conjecture seems to havestarted with John Fryer, who in his Acccount of East India (1698) derived punch from Hindi panch meaning 'five', from thefive ingredients of the drink: sugar spirits, lemon or lime juice, water, and spices. However, in the seventeeth century the wordwould have been pronounced not, as now to rhyme with lunch, but with a short "oo' sound, 'poonch', and this is not really consistentwith a borrowing from Hindi panch; so it has been speculated that it is short for puncheon, a large cask from which thedrink might have been served. The classic simplicity of the original type did not survive long; and assortment of variations was soon dreamed up,including punch made with tea, with milk (this enjoyed a wave of popularity in the early eighteenth century), andwithout any alcohol. Nowadays almost any sort of festive amalgam of drinks served in a bowl, with or without bits of fruit swimming in it, is dignified with the name of 'punch'...One drink to maintain the tradition in the rum-based West-Indian planter'spunch..."
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 272-3)

"Rum was the most popular distilled liquor of the [Colonial American] time. It was widely served in taverns, sold in anassortment of measures, ranging from the gallon to the glass. The most expensive variety was imported from the West Indies (the rum of Jamaica was especially prized); both New England and Pennsylvania, however, manufactured their own rum from imported Island Molasses...Plain (straight) rum was identified as the drink of the working classes...Rum was also the main ingredients in what one writer described as "a very good, pleasant and healthful drink, punch." A popular beverage, punch was considered as genteelas imported tea. It was routinely served at every conceivable tavern event from political gatherings to the meetings of men's clubs, beforeand after a meal, or during an eventing's activities...punch was a combination of then luxurious ingredients. The drink was made using therinds and juice of imported lemons, limes, and even oranges, commonly mixed with rum, and white or brown sugar. In some taverns, customers paid extra for the inclusion of sugar and fruit in their drinks. Lime punch was the most popular version of the drink, and the beverage was aptly described as "Sower punch."...Punch was also made with eggs and milk...Like some other beverages, punch was servedwarm and sold in taverns by the bowl. A quart of the mix would fill about half a large punch bowl. Tavern inventories indicate thatboth delft...and china...punch bowls, in large and small sizes, were used. Since delft was widely available and inexepensive,most tavern keepers kept only a modest supply of punch bowls on hand...That punch had a special place in the tavern is also evident from the number of silver punch strainers, punch ladles, punch spoons, and even in one cakse, silver punch bowls foundamong the stocks of taverns in centers like New York, Boston, Charlestown, Philadelphia, and Williamsburg. With those exceptions, silver rarely appears in 18th-century tavern inventories."
---Early American Taverns: For the Entertainment of Friends and Strangers, Kym S. Rice [Regnery Gateway:Chicago] 1983 (p. 94-95)

"Punch. Although much was said in praise of wine, more was said of punch. This was the Tidewater's standby drink. "Punch" is the English rendering of the Hindustani paunch, meaning five, for the five ingredients --spirits, water, sliced lemons or limes, sugar, and spice...The recipe for the immortal drink came to England from the Far east, together with tea, root ginger, and spice, fine East Indian muslins and cashmere shawls, and other new delights, either by way of the fourteenth-century caravan root or by sea around the Cape of Good Hope. In the Tidewater, rum from the West Indies and brandy were the chief ingredients of punch...A bowl of punch was the planters' most companionable drink. Many a political strategy was hatched, many a long evening of pleasure was spent with a small punch bowl at each right elbow. The punch made by one of Williamsburg's tavernkeepers, Henry Wetherburn, figures in a story that is still remembered today. In May 1736, after planter William Randolph agreed to sell some of his farm land to Thomas Jefferson's father, he insisted on Henry Wetherburn's "biggest bowl of Arrack punch" to seal the bargain."
---The Williamsburg Cookbook, commentary by Joan Parry Dutton [Colonial Williamsburg Foundation:Williamsburg VA], revised and enlarged, 1975 (p. 160-1)

[1770]
"[A rum punch]

The peel of 8 Oranges and 8 Lemons in 1 quart of rum. 3 Gallons of Water boild with 3 lb. of loaf Sugar and the Whites of 8 Eggs. 2 and 3/4 pints of orange juice and 1 and 3/4 Pints of Lemon juice. strain the quart of rum from the Peel and add one Gallon more of rum to rest of the ingredients."
---A Colonial Plantation Cookbook: The Receipt Book of Harriott Pinckney Horry, 1770, [South Carolina] edited with an Introduction by Richard J. Hooker [University of South Carolina Press:Columbia SC] 1984 (p. 139)

[1839]
"Orange Punch

Weigh two and a half pounds of loaf sugar, put it in a a bowl, and poru on it two and a half table-spoonfuls of rose water. Grate the yellow peel from one dozen fineoranges, and two lemons, and squeeze the juice into the bowl, add the grated peel, cover the bowl, and set it by till next day; then mix in a bottle of claret, orchampaign, pass it through a fine sieve, and stir well into it the whites of eight eggs, which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Serve it up in glasses, putting a lump of ice in each,and grate nutmeg thickly over them; or you may freeze it, and serve it in glasses, providing each with a tea-spoon."
---Kentucky Housewife, Lettice Bryan, facsimile 1839 edition [Image Graphics:Paducah KY] (p. 406)

"Milk Punch
Take rum, or any nice kind of brandy, and dilute it to the strength you like it, with entire sweet milk, stirring it in gradually. Sweeten it to your taste with loaf sugar, flavorit with a little capillary, and serve it up in glasses; drop a small lump of ice in each, and grate nutmeg thickly over them."
---ibid (p. 405)

"Italian Punch.
Pare very thin the yellow rinds from six oranges and six lemons, put them into three pints of water, and boil them till the water is reduced to one quart, and strain it intoa large bowl. Mix in two and a half pounds of loaf sugar, three pints of boiling sweet milk, and set it by to cool; then stir in gradually one quart of rum, or the best brandy, and thejuice from the decorticated lemons and oranges. It will keep well for several months, put up in bottles, and when you wish to make use of it, serve it up in glasses, mixing in a few beaten whites of eggs, and grating nutmeg on the top."
---ibid (p. 406-7)

"Tea Punch
Make a pint and a half of very strong tea in the usual manner; strain it, and pour it boiling on one pound and a half of loaf sugar. Add half a pint of very rich cream, andthen stir in gradually a bottle of claret or of champagne. You may heat it to the boiling point, and serve it so, or you may send it round entirely cold, in glass cups."
---ibid (p. 407)

Recommended reading: Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl/David Wondrich

Related beverages? Shrub & cordials & syllabub.

Root beer
The history of root beer begins with small beer (low alcohol content). These products, oftenbrewed with roots of medicinal plants, contained small amounts of alcohol. They were consideredhealth beverages in centuries past. In the 18th and early 19th century, home-made beer composedof roots (spruce, most notably) commonly appeared in American cook books.
Ginger beer wasalso popular. By the second half of the 19th century, soft drinks (seltzer, flavored seltzer, soda)were introduced and marketed as health food products. Root beer was a perfect fit. Foodhistorians tell us root beer was produced in quantity for public sale in 1876.

According to the Oxford English Dictionary (2nd edition), the earliest print reference to"root beer" was published in 1843. Nathaniel Hawthorne mentions both "root beer" and "gingerbeer" in his House of Seven Gables [1851].

"Now a sweet soft drink flavored with a mixture of herbal essences, root beer was originally a realbeer and a tonic health drink. Small beers, or low-alcohol beers carbonated by the action ofyeasts, have been traditional and nutritious drinks for children, women, and the elderly in Englandand Europe for centuries. Although many of these small beers were flavored with ginger orlemon, another common flavoring and one popular for its antiscurvey properties was that of thebark of spruce or birch trees. When colonists arrived in North America, they found new varietiesof the traditional spruce and birch for their beers, but discovered Native Americans using suchnovel flavorings as the roots of sarsaparilla (Smilax ornata) and sassafras (Sassafras albidum) aswell. Both of these were similar to spruce and birch in taste, and the colonists soon learned to usethem in their small beer, often with molasses as a sweetener and fermenting agent. Exactly whensweetened small beer made with various roots was first called "root beer" is unknown. One of theearliest mentions is in Dr. Chase's Recipes from 1869...In 1876, Charles E. Hires, who claimed tohave invented root beer, began marketing packets of the herbal ingredients necessary to make "theGreatest Health-Giving Beverage in the World" at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. Thiskit for making root beer was supposed to contain sixteen roots, herbs, barks, and berries,including sassafras, the dominant flavoring, and required home fermentation with yeast. In 1884Hires decided consumers would be more interested in an easier-to-use product and began selling aliquid concentrate and soda fountain syrup, as well as bottled root beer."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [OxfordUniversity Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 372-3)

"By 1819 a patent was issued for "carbonated mead," and in 1824 one for sarsaprilla..."Birchbeer" came along in the 1880s to compete with Philadelphian druggist Charles E. Hires's "HerbTea," later changed to "Root Beer" (a previously common term for soda flavored with variousroots and herbs). Hires had first made the beverage in 1875, advertised it as "the NationalTemperance Drink" and first served it at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exposition."
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani[Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 300)

A sampler of American root beer recipes

[1798]
"For Brewing Spruce Beer,"
American Cookery, Amelia Simmons

[1831]
"Beer,"
American Frugal Housewife, Lydia Maria Child [NOTE: Mrs. Child offersconsidersbeer a healthy family drink.]

[1838]
"Spruce Beer,"
The Virginia House-wife, Mary Randolph [also includes ginger beer andmolassesbeer]

[1869]
"Root Beer
: For each gallon of water to be used, take hops, burdock, yellow dock,sarsaparilla, dandelion, and spikenard roots, bruised, of each 1/2 oz.; boil about 20 minutes, andstrain while hot, add 8 or 10 drops of oils of spruce and sassafras mixed in equal proportions,when cool enough not to scald your hand, put in 2 or 3 table-spoons of yeast; molasses two-thirdsof a pint, or white sugar 1/2 lb. Gives it about the right sweetness. Keep these proportions for asmany gallons as yo wish to make. You can use more or less of the roots to suit our taste aftertrying it; it is best to get the dry roots, or dig them and let them get dry, and of course you canadd any other root known to possess medicinal properties desired in the beer. After all is mixed,let it stand in a jar with a cloth thrown over it, to work about two hours, then bottle and set in acool place. This is a nice way to take alteratives, without taking medicine. And families ought tomake it every Spring, and drink freely of it for several weeks, and thereby save, perhaps, severaldollars in doctors' bills."--Dr. Chase's Recipes, 1869"
---Early American Beverages, John Hull Brown [Bonanza Books:New York]1966 (p.101)

[1911]
Root Beer definition/description

, The Grocer's Encyclopedia

[1925]
"Root Beer.
--A non-alcoholic drink made from extracts of various roots and prepared for thefountain by the addition of syrup and carbonated water. This class includes Ottawa beer,sarsaprilla, and similar beverages which do not require the addition of cream and are mixed fromsyrup and carbonated water. It is the common practice to carbonate such beverages in tanks anddraw them from the draught arm of the fountain, or from a special dispenser."
---The Dispenser's Formualry, compiled by The Soda Fountain Trade Magazine, [SodaFountain Publications:New York] 1925, 4th edition (p. 29)

Sangria
Sangria (aka Sangaree) is a
punch-type fruit-infused sweet wine beverage with Spanish roots. The name descends fromthe Spanish word for blood, describing the deep red color of the finished product. Sangaree was introduced to North America viathe Caribbean islands in the 18th century. Americans "rediscovered" sangaree in the 1970s. Renamed sangria, this popular fruit-infusedparty beverage was served in trendy restaurants catering to young crowds.

Spanish sangria
"Sangria is a sort of Spanish cold punch made from red wine, typically with the addition of fruit juiceand soda water, and often also brandy and sliced fruit. The Spanish word sangria means literally'bleeding' (it is a derivative of sangre, 'blood'). It was originally borrowed into English in the earlyeighteenth century in the modified form sangaree, a term which has subsequently come to be applied inAmerican English to an iced sweetened drink based on wine, sherry, beer, etc. and flavoured withnutmeg."
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2003 (p. 300)

"Spaniards like their drinks simple...The general rule is that wines, liquors, and liquers, as well as nonalcoholic beverages, shouldbe pure and unadulterated. The most outstanding exception to this rule is sangria, a wonderfully refreshing summer drink that becameimmensely popular through advertising, then fell into disrepute because of bottling. It is as distasteful to bottle sangriaas it is to can paella and gazpacho...sangria...must be mixed with sweet succulent fruits shortly before drinking to preserveits lovely fresh flavor...Nothing is more satisfying in summer than an icy cold sangria."
---The Foods and Wines of Spain, Penelope Casas [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1982 (p. 391-392)
[NOTE: Sangria formula here.]

Americans rediscover sangria:
"In Spanish, sangre means blood and sangria means bleeding. The relation to red wine is obvious, butjust when the connection first was made appears lost to history. The flavoring and diluting of wine withwater or fruit juices is almost as old as wine itself. Indeed, before vinification became the science it istoday, many wines had to be cut just to make them palatable."
---"To Love Sangria, You Don't Have to be Spanish-Or Even a Drinker," Frank J. Prail, New YorkTimes, May 19, 1973 (p. 42)

"Sangria has hit the American shore like the red tide. Two years ago it was little mroe than a name to drop at a poolside cookout or co*cktail party, or a delicious, exotic memore from vacationing in Mallorca or Marella. Serving it to guests was a sure way of scoring a 'first' in any custom housing development. Thsi summer one brand of sangria comes in six packs. At least a half dozen other brands, imported and domestic, are best sellers in liquor stores. In most cases, what you buy is a mixture of light, inexpensive red wine, citrus fruit juice, a bit of sugar, and perhaps water or soda water. This, like the man says, is your basic sangria, and it can bemade at hoem for about $1.75 a half-gallon. There are hundreds of recipes. Sangria comes from the Spanish 'sangre' [blood], and covers almost any fruit punch containing red wine. If economy is not a major factor in its production, there are many elegant, expensive, and potent versions."
---"Make your own Sangria," Bill Collins, Chicago Tribune, July 31, 1975 (p. S-A8)
[NOTE: Recipe from this article here.]

"As recently as a decade ago, Sangria was a cooling summer quencher known only to a limited handful of aficionados. Then the Spanishred wine and fruit juice combo became a national rage, especially among the post-Pepsi generation. Now Sangria has setteled into a comfortable niche of year-round poplarity, fueld by one of the newer introductions, white sangria. Like the original, white sangria is wine and citrus juice, but with white wine isntead of red. A natural innovation, considering the greater popularity ofwhite wine."
---"Slim Gourmet: White Sangria Trims off Calories," Barbara Gibbons, Los Angeles Times, February 24, 1977 (p. I34F)
[NOTE: This article offers recipes for Sangria Fruit Cups, Chicken Sangria Blanco and Spanish Sangria Steak with Fruit.]

[1847]
"Wine Sangaree.
--Put a gill of wine (port or Madeira,) into a tumbler, add to it water, hot or cold, nearly to fill it, sweeten with loafsugar to taste, grate nutmeg over, and serve with sponge cake, lady cake, or Savoy biscuit, cut small."
---The American System of Cookery, Mrs. T. J. Crowen [T.J. Crowen:New York] 1847 (p. 337)

[1862]
"125. Port Wine Sangaree.
(Use small bar glass). 1 1/2 wine-glass of port wine, 1 teaspoonful of sugar. Fill tumbler two-thirds with ice.Shake well and grate nutmeg on top.
"126. Sherry Sangsaree. (Use small bar glass). 1 wine-glass of sherry. 1 teaspoon of fine sugar. Fill tumbler one-third with ice, andgrate nutmeg on top.
"127. Brandy Sangaree. (Use small bar glass). The brandy sangaree is made with the same ingredients as the brandy toddy (see No. 133), omitting the numeg. Fill two-thirds full of ice, and dash aobut a teaspoonful of port wine, so that it will float on top."
"128. Gin Sangaree. (Use small bar glass). The gin sangaree is made with the same ingerdients as the gin toddy (see NO. 134), omittingthe nutmeg. Fill two-thirds full of ice, and dash about a teaspoonful of port win, so that it will float to the top.
"129. Ale Sangaree. (Use large bar glass). 1 teaspoonful of sugar, dissolved in a tablespoonful of water. Fill the tumbler withale, and grate nutmeg on top.<
"130. Porter Sangaree. (Use large bar glass). This beverage is made the same as an ale sangaree, and is sometiems called porteree."
---How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-Vivant's Companion, Jerry Thomas [Dick & Fitzgerald:New York] 1862 (p. 56-57)

[1875]
"Sangaree.
--This is a sort of punch frequently drunk in the West INdies. It is composed of half madiera and half water, aciduatedwith lime-juice and sweetened with sugar.
"Sangaree (American).--Put a quarter of a pint of madeira or port into a large tumbler. Add two or three lumps of sugar and asmuch hot or cold water as will fill the glass. Grate nutmeg over the preparation, and serve.
"Sangaree, Danish.--The following is the Danish method of making sangaree. Take three bottles of red wine, and mix with them a pint and a half of water; add a whole nutmeg grated, and cinnamon and sugar to taste. Set the preparation on the fire, and let it boil up; thentake it off, and let it stand with the cover on till cold. Strain and bottle.
Sangaree, Strong.--The folowing recipe for 'The Admiral's Strong Sangaree' is given by Mr. James Robinson. Put into a stone jar a pint and ahalf of cherry brandy, a quarter of a pint of lime-juice, three pints of madeira wine, three parts of French brandy, three-quarters ofa pound of preserved guavas sliced, two ounces each of candied citron and lemon sliced, tow ounces of preserved ginger sliced, half an ounce each of cinnamon and cloves beaten fine, one ounce each of nutmeg and Jamaica pepper, two ounces of pistachio nuts blanched and beaten, half an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and beaten, three-quarters of an ounce each of gum arabic and gum dragon dissolved. Beat the almonds and nuts to a paste witha spoonful of orange-flower water. Make a pleasant mixture of the madeira, lime-juice, and loaf sugar; pour it to the rest, cork and seal thejar, and set it in hot water to infuse the gerater part of a day. In twelve hours shake it well, and keep it in a warm temperature sixweeks, after which it may be stored. In twelve or fifteen months strain it off, filter it several times until it is beautifully bright, then put it in small bottles, which cork well and seal, and in wsix months more it will be excellent.
"Sangaree (West Indian).--Crush four ounces of loaf sugar to powder, and pour upon it a large wine-galssful of lime-juice,.Stir untl the sugar is dissolved, then add a bottle of madeira, half a pint of pure French brandy, and two pints of coldstpring water. Grate thefourth part of a small numeg over the sangaree, put a large lump of ice into it, and serve. Sponge cake or savoy biscuit is generally served with sangaree."
---Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery with Numerous Illustrations [Cassell, Petter, Galpin & Co.:London] 1875 (p. 825)

[1947]
"Sangarees and Slings.
Sangarees are tall drinks, made like Old-Fashioneds but without bitters, and are usually topped with a dash ofnutmeg. Slings, on the other hand, in their simpler versions, are pointed up with bitters or a similar type of flavoring and resembe enlongated Old-Fashioned with the addition of a little lemon juice. With the exception of the Singapore Slings, this entire group of drinks has littlemerit...
"Brandy Sagaree. 3 oz. brandy, 1/2 tsp. sugar syrup, 1/2 tsp. lemon juice. Stir well with ice; strain into highball glass and add onelarge lump of ice; fill with ice water or chilled seltzer. Dust with nutmeg. Note: Rum, gin, or whisky may be used in place ofbrandy."
---Bartender's Guide, Trader Vic (Victor Bergeron) [Garden City Books:Garden City NY] 1947 (p. 395-396)[NOTES: (1) Formulae for Ale, Claret, Port, & Sauterne Sangaree are also included. (2) Compare with Brandy Sling: Juice 1/2 lemon, 1 tsp. sugar, 2 oz. brandy, 1 dash Angostura bitters.]

[1952]
"Sangaree.
The name given to long, mixed, iced drinks in some parts of the tropics: whether wine or spirits be used as a basis, andif so which sorts and in what proportion, is left to the ingenuity or imagination of the barman or whoever offers to mix the Sangaree.
Port Wine Sangagree: One and a half jiggers of port wine, 1/2 ounce of simple syrup. Stir well with cracked ice and strain into highball glass with two cubes of ice. Grate nutmeg on top."
---A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, Andre L. Simon [Harcourt, Brace and Company:New York] 1952 (p. 764)

[1967]
"Sangria I
i quart of dry red wine, 3/4 quart of lemon soda, 1/4 cup of brandy, 1 orange sliced with the rind left on the peel of onelemon, 1 peach peeled and sliced, 1/2 cup of sugar (or to taste). Mix fruit, wine, brandy and sugar in a bowl or pitcher, stir until sugar is dissolved. Leave stand a half hour for the furit to marinate. When ready to serve add the soda and twelve ice cubes. Serve in tall glasses with liquid and fruit."
---Spanish-American Cook Book, The American Women's Club of Madrid, Ellie Barrett, editor [American Women's Club of Madrid:Madrid] 1967 (p. 9)

[1972]
"Sangria. (For four). 3 ounces lemon juice, 2 ounces orange juice, 2 ounces rock candy syrup, 16 ounces dry red table wine, 1 small bottle(split) club soda. Pour over 2 scoops ice cubes in a wine carafe. Stir lightly. Serve in a large goblet."
---Trader Vic's Bartender's Guide, Trader Vic (Victor Bergeron), revised edition [Doubleday & Company:Garden City NY] 1972 (p. 415)
[NOTE: This book also offers a formula for "San Gris," composed of lemon/lime juice, sugar, madeira, cognac & club soda.]

[1975]
"Simple Sangria. 1 bottle dry red wine, 3 oranges, 2 lemons, 1 lime [optional], 1 to 3 tablespoons sugar, 1 bottle club soda. Put the wine in a tall pitcher or a punch bowl, along with a tray or two of ice cubes. Add the juice of oneoerange, then the other twooranges, sliced thin. Cut the lemon and, if used, the lime in half. Add the juice of one half and the other half sliced thin. Mix in sugar to taste and blend in soda water. Can be decorated with mint. Makes slightly more than two quarts. It should be servedimmediately, while the soda is still sparkling. Now, for some variations. You might want to try making a batch and spiking it witha cup of brandy. Or, subtly changing the flavor by using a half-cup of pineapple juice in addition to or in place of one of the lemons."
---"Make your own Sangria," Bill Collins, Chicago Tribune, July 31, 1975 (p. S-A8)
[NOTE: Formula for Champagne Sangria, from a Spanish restaurant in Darmstadt Germany, is also included in this article.]

[1977]
"Sangria.
There are several different verson of this, all of them well recommended. Try the basic recipe, then the variaions, and see which one your prefer. It's an excellent drink for a buffet p[arty, as it can be made in s large pitcher or punch bowl, doubling the quantities if necessary. 1 bottle dry red wine (Spanish, Chilean, or Californian. 1 large, thin-skinned orange, 2 jiggers Cointreau or brandy, 3/4 c. club soda, Sugar if desired. Put about a dozen ice cubes into a large pitcher or bowl. Add thered wine nad Cointreau or brandy. Wash but do not peel the orange, slice thinly, and add. If desired, sweeten with sugar, or preferably with simple syrup. (Mix 1 c. sugar with 1 c. water, heat until dissolved, boil 5 minutes, and cool. Keep in a jar in therefrigerator, and use as needed for sweetening drinks), and add about 3/4 c. club soda. Peaches, strawberries, slices of rawapple, or lime may be used instead of, or as well as, the orange slices. You can also add 1 c. orange juice to the wine, plus 1.2 c. lemon juice, and omit the soda. Some recipes do not call for Cointreau or brandy: the sangria can perfectly well be made without them. Serve in good-sized wineglasses."
---Cosmo Cookery: Gourmet Meals form the First Drink to the Last Kiss, [Cosmopolitan Books:New York] 1977 (p. 217)

[1982]
"Sangria.
Start preparation several hours in advance. Nothing is more satisfying in summer than an icy cold sangria...Sangriaslides down easily, so prepare plenty...
Makes bout 4 cups
1 bottle (24 ounces) dry, full-bodied red wine, preferably of Spanish import from Valencia or Valdepenas
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons orange liqueur (optional), such as Gran Torres or Grand Marnier.
1 tablespoons sugar
Orange and lemon slices
Apple and/or peach wedges
1 cup club soda or sparkling water
Mix together in a large pitcher all ingredients except the club soda. Cover and refrigerate several hours overnight. Add the clubsoda and ice cubes. Serve very cold in balloon-shaped wineglass or in Spanish earthenware mugs (without handles.)"
---Foods and Wines of Spain, Penelope Casas [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1982 (p. 392)
[NOTE: Formula for White Wine Sangria follows (p. 393).]

shrub
Shrub was a popular colonial-era cordial made from the juice of a citrus fruit (often raspberries, cherries, lemons or oranges), rum, and sugar. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, archaic spelling variations sometimes began with "sch." Fruit-based vinegars were similarly composed. Shrub is related to
sherbet.

"Shrub has now had its day, but in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries it was a popular drink made from a spirit (usually rum), sugar, and orange or lemon juice...The word comes from Arabic shurb beverage, 'drink', and is related to English sherbert, sorbet, and syrup."
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 312)

"Shrub was another such drink, with an Arabic namedenoting a middle eastern origin. It first became popular in the early eighteenth century and was made with brandy, lemon juice and peel, sugar and white wine. Later rum-shrub became very usual; and there were also fancy shrubs flavoured with ground almondsor currant juice."
---Food and Drink in Britain From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson [Academy Broadway:Chicago IL] 1991 (p. 401)

"Recipes for shrub, an alcoholic version of sherbet, were also developed [in the 18th century]. The following comes from ElizaSmith's Compleat Houswife. Although first published in 1727, it probably reflects culinary practices some decades earlier:'To make shrubTake two quarts of brandy, and put it in a large bottle, adding to it the juice of five lemons, the peels of two, and half anutmeg; stop it up and let it stand three days, and add to it three pints of white wine, a pound and a half of sugar; mix it,strain it twice through flannel, and bottle it up; it is a pretty wine, and a cordial'."
---Sugarplums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 156-7)

"Old World fruits were introduced in America by European settlers in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries...Beginning in thenineteenth century, the most common way of serving fruit juice was with added sugar and water in the form of "ades," such as appleade, lemonade, orangeade...Fruit juices also were cooked with a large quantity of sugar and preserved forfuture use, mainly for use in cooking and baking. In addition, juices were fermented into flavorful vinegars, and they were usedin alcoholic and temperance beverages, including shrubs, which were composed of fruit juice plus spirits or vinegar."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, volume 1 (p. 534)

Typical early American shrub recipe [1803].

Compare the 1803 recipe for shrub with these 1824 recipes for raspberry cordial and raspberry vinegar:

"Raspberry cordial.
To each quart of ripe red raspberries, put one quart of best French brandy, let it remain about a week, then strain it through a sieve or bag, presssin out all the liquid; when you have got as much as you want, reduce the strength to your taste with water, and put a pound of powdered loaf sugar to each gallon; let it stand till refined. Strawberry cordial is made the same way. It destroys the flavour of these fruits to put them on the fire."

"Raspberry vinegar.
Put a quart of ripe red raspberries in a bowl; our on them a quart of strong well-flavoured vinegar, let them stand 24 hours, strain them through a bad, put this liquid on another quart of fresh raspberries, which strain in the same manner, and then on a third quart; when this last is prepared, make it very sweet with pounded sugar; refine and bottle it. It is a delicious beverage mixed with ice water."
---The Virginia House-wife, Mary Randolph, with historical notes and commentaries by Karen Hess [University of South Carolina Press:Columbia] 1984 (p. 215)

Related beverages: punch, switchel & cordials.

smoothies
Although fruit and ice/ice cream/milk/sorbet/yogurt blended combinations have been consumed forhundreds of years, culinary historians generally place smoothies in the 20thcentury, though they can't quite agree which decade. There is no single person orcompany credited for inventing the smoothie. In fact? There is no single recipe. Inmany places smoothies are promoted as health foods. Are they really? They can be. It all dependsupon the ingredients.

According to the smoothie experts (cookbooks, articles, industry Web sites) a true smoothie isusually a milk-based product. This is part (calcium/protein) of what is supposed to make this drinkhealthy. In Mexico and Latin America "Licuado" is the popular local word for smoothie (milk &fruit based health drink). It does seem to imply a milk-base. According to the Cassell's SpanishDictionary, the word "licuado" (in its purest sense) simply means liquefy, as in: mixed in theblender. It does not imply specific ingredients or a particular recipe.

"Old world fruits were introduced in America by European settlers in the sixteenth andseventeenth centuries...Apples, lemons, and oranges were the main juice fruits, but currants,grapes, peaches, pineapples, plums, raspberries, and strawberries were also used for juice.Beginningin the nineteenth century, the most common way of serving fruit juice was with added sugar andwater in the form of "ades," such as appleade, lemonade, orangeade, and strawberryade. Thesejuices were sometimes served ice-cold and called "sherbet." For a lighter drink, a few spoonfuls ofthese sweetened juices were stirred into cold water. By the nineteenth century, a wide range offruit juices were used to flavor ice cream and soda fountain drinks...In the home, fruit was juicedby hand until 1930, when the first commercial juicing machine was marketed by NormanWalker, who encouraged a diet of raw food and juices. Juicing became popular in America duringthe 1970s. Smoothies, thick drinks consisting of fresh fruit blended with milk, yogurt, or icecream, became popular in the 1980s. Juice bars, which frequently serve smoothies, were launchedin the early 1990s in health food stores and quickly evolved into major independentbusinesses."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith [OxfordUniversity Press:New York] 2004 (p. 534)

"Juice bars, a billion-dollar business, began modestly in 1926 in Los Angeles when Julius Freedopened a shop selling fresh orange juice. His real estate agent, Bill Hamlin, a former chemist,suggested an all-natural mixture that gave the orange juice a creamy, foamy consistency. Itcontained orange juice, water, egg whites, vanilla extract, sugar and ice. When Freed and Hamlinstarted selling the new beverage, sales soared from twenty dollars to one hundred dollars a day,and then name for the product arose from the way customers asked for the drink: "Give me anorange, Julius." By 1929 Orange Julius had grown into a chain with one hundred stores in theUnited States. The macrobiotic vegetarianism fad of the mid-1960s stirred up the juice-barbusiness with the creation of smoothies, originally a mixture of fruit, fruit juice, and ice cold in theback of health-food restaurants and stores. Steve Kuhnau started a health-food store in 1973,offering nutritious energy-packed smoothies as an alternative to the ubiquitious high-fat food ofNew Orleans and to help resolve his own health problems. In 1987 Kuhnau and his wife Cindy,co-founded one fo the major smoothie companies, Smoothie King Franchises Inc. A competitor,Jamba Juice Company, bagan in 1990 in California as a store that offered fresh-fruitsmoothies...Bt the end of the twentieth century, regional and independent juice bars had sproutedup across the country...Mobile smoothie stations in carts and kiosks make the drinks even moreavailable and less expensive to purvey...Many dessert-style smoothies contain milk; ice cream orice milk; yogurt or frozen yogurt; sorbet; or soy, rice, or nut milk. Nutritional supplements may beadded."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith [OxfordUniversity Press:New York] 2004 (p. 750-1)

"Though Kuhnau created Smoothie King and the 20 trademarked drinks sold at Smoothie Kingstores, he didn't actually invent the smoothie, a generic name for a non-alcoholic blended fruitdrink. It was born in the counterculture health food stores of southern Califomia in the 1950s andexists in a variety of forms at different health food stores around the country today."
---"Health-Conscious Consumers Propel Local Sales of Smoothies," Stephanie Riegel, NewOrleans City Business, March 25, 1991, Vol 11; No 19; Sec 1; pg 17

"The smoothie has been around since the 1960s, though its resurgence has been just since the 80swhen the modern sports and fitness craze began to catch on. Today, it is common to drink asmoothie as a power drink or as a meal replacement. In doing so, it's important to remember thatadding supplements can give your smoothie that extra punch for energy. Jamison Starbuck,herbalist for Better Nutrition and practicing naturopathic physician says, "As a physician, I thinksmoothies with soy protein are a great energy alternative to high-fat traditional breakfasts likebacon and eggs." Whether you drink yours for breakfast or have it as a snack, the following fivesupplements are good choices for giving your smoothie an extra energy boost. They're readilyavailable at your local health food store and will blend well into your favorite homemade smoothierecipes."
---"Smart Smoothies!" Deanna Efird, Better Nutrition, April 2000 (p. 34)

"Smoothie. A drink with a thick, smooth consistency made from pureeing fruit with yogurt, icecream, or milk. The term dates to the 1970s."Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F.Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:NewYork] 1999 (p. 298)

"A lot of things are being sold as smoothies today, but generally, they're loaded with fresh fruit,nonfat frozen yogurt, vitamins, minerals, fibers, active cultures, immune-system boosters andsometimes protein powder. And they can be blended to order in less than a minute. Actually,smoothies have been around since the early 1970s. They were created on the West Coast as arefreshment at health clubs and juice bars. If you've ever had an Orange Julius, you've had asmoothie."
---"Smooth shakes," Alan J. Wax, Newsday (New York, NY), July 29, 1998(p.B14)

About Orange Julius & Smoothie King.

If you are researching the smoothie industry for business class, ask your librarian how to accessconsumer & trade magazine databases such as EBSCO's MasterFile, Business Source,ProQuest's Research II, Gale's Business and Company Resource and DIALOG's Business &Industry. Here you will find articles on companies, market data, consumer trends and pricingstrategy. Ask your librarian about access...many of these databases may be available to you fromyour own home computer. All you need is a library card! The Juice and Smoothie Association may also beuseful.

Related foods? Lemonade & milk shakes.

Switchel
Switchel is a energy-boosting beverage originating in colonial North America, most notably New England. The primary ingredients were molasses, vinegar, ginger and water, though other ingredients were sometimes added. Alternative appelations included "Haymakers Punch," "Harvest Drink," "Harvest Beer," and "Swanky."

"Switchel. [Origin unknown. A name for various intoxicating drinks.] A drink of molasses and water, often seasoned with vinegar and ginger, and sometimes with rum." 1790. Freneau, Poems (1795) 375 "For such attempts men drink your high-proof wines. Not spiritless switchel and vile hogo drams."...1946. Yankee August 9 "Our grandfathers would be drinking Switchel for refreshment: a mixture of water, ginger, molasses or vinegar, and sometimes rum."
---A Dictionary of Americanisms on Historical Principles, Mitford M. Mathews editor [University of Chicago Press:Chicago] 1951 (p. 1695)

"Switchel. A Colonial drink made from molasses, vinegar, and water. It is sometimes called "haymaker's punch." Brandy, cider, or rum was often added."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 320)

"As the time for harvesting the New England hay crops draws near, old-times are likely to sigh for the earlier days when every farmer was expected to "do the honors" to the men he employed to work in the hayfields. These consisted of sumptuous meals and plenty of switchel. Possibly this cooling, delectable drink is known in fields afar today, but it was originally a New England beverage, seldom manufactured or served except during haying. It was a concoction of molasses, sugar, vinegar and water, and many good farm wives had their own secret formulas. Some simply stirred until well blended, added ice if it were available and served. Others cooked the mixture and allowed it to cool naturally. Generally switchel was carried to the hayfields in one or two gallon stone jugs, wrapped in wet cloths and placed somewhere in the sahd. By keeping the cloth wet the mixture would remain cool for hours. While switchel was originally devised as a strictly non-alcoholic, and peculiarly cooling, drink, some farmers who believed their men cut more hay when warm than when cool more or less liberally fortified the contents of the jug with New England rum; which was cheap; pure and plentiful. Such employers had little difficulty in obtaining plenty of hands during haying time."
---"Harvesting in Old New England Made Gay by Serving Switchel," New York Times, June 16, 1929 (p. XX2)

"Many of the large New England hayfields have disappeared; so has the switchel, which is now merely a name. Switchel was a mixture of molasses, ginger, water and a dash of vinegar, contained in a brown jug cached under the shade of a bunch of alders or partly submerged in a spring hole. On a hot day when men were mowing, raking, or pitching hay, frequent trips were made to the switchel jug. Dusty throats needed something to wash away the hayseed, and switchel was the answer. It was consumed in quantities. The coldness of the water was tempered by the molasses, while the ginger and vinegar prevented cramps."
---"A Forgotten Drink," New York Times, May 24, 1931 (p. SM9)

How to make Switchel?

[1855]
"'Harvest Drink. Mix with five gallons of good water, half a gallon of molasses, one quart of vinegar, and two ounces of powdered ginger. This will make not only a very pleasant beverage, but one highly invigorating and healthful.'---FromPractical American Cookery and Domestic Economy, by Miss Hall, 1855, page 117....Swanky was a seagoing switchel...Similar in purpose to modern sports drinks, it slakes thirst and provdes a bit ofsugary energy. Molasses is high in minerals as well. This recipe yields close to six gallons, which would be about right for a crew of people haying in summer months or a schooner full of handliners. The proportions for roughly a quart and a half are as follows: five cups water, half a cup of molasses, a quarter cup of vinegar, and three teaspoons of ginger. One of our testers remarkedthat the swanky 'tastes like something that's good for you.' You may want to sample it after mixing and add additional waterto taste. We liked it best when the water had been doubled."
---Saltwater Foodways: New Englanders and their food, at sea and ashore, in the nineteeth century, Sandra L. Oliver [Mystic Seaport Museum:Mystic CT] 1995(p. 146-147)

[1857]
"Harvest Drink.
Mix with five gallons of good water, half a gallon of molasses, one quart of vinegar, and two ounces of powdered ginger.This will make not only a very pleasant beverage, but one highly invigorating and healthful."
---Practical American Cookery and Domestic Economy, Elizabeth M. Hall [Miller, ORton & Co:New York] 1857 (p. 342)

[1869]
Harvest Beer
,Domestic Cookery/Lea

[1877]
Grandmother's Harvest Drink
, Buckeye Cookery/Wilcox

Related beverages? cordials, shrub & punch.

Tang
Tang was trademarked in 1957 (U.S. Patent & Trademark Office registration #1974439)and introduced to the American public in 1959. It was invented as a modern breakfastbeverage in a corporate kitchen, not commissioned by the U.S. space program. Gemini astronauts brought Tangto outer space in 1965. In 1969, Tang went to the moon. Product popularity rocketed beyond expectations and savvy marketerscapitalized on the connection. If you remember other flavors besides classic orange, you are correct! In 1969 Tang came in grapefruit, pineapple-grapefruit & grape.

[1957]
"A new instant, orange-flavored breakfast beverage, Tang, will be introduced next month in selected test markets by the Post division of the General Foods Corporation."
---"Advertising: 'Meeting-in-Round'," New York Times, August 7, 1957 (p. 55)

"General Foods Corp.'s Post division will introduce in selected test markets this September a new instant orange-flavored breakfast beverage called Tang. It is a powder which can be mixed instantly in cold water. Each serving, according to General Foods, contains more vitamins C and A than equivalent amounts of fresh or frozen orange juice. It is packed in seven and 14-ounce jars; the seven-ounce jar makes 12 individual four-ounce servings."
---"General Goods Offers New Drink," Wall Street Journal, August 7, 1957 (p. 24)

[1958]
"A brand new product in the morning beverage field made its Washington debut at a brunch Tuesday at the Mayflower Hotel. The new instant breakfast drink, called 'Tang,' is a product of General Foods Corporation. "It contains more vitamins A and C than fresh or frozen orange juice, thereby setting off the first spark toward a brand new feeling each morning.," Fay Burnett, nutritionist for General Foods Kitchens, told newspaper, radio, TV and other guests at the Brunch. Vitamin-enriched Tang has a sunny fresh flavor and an appetizing orange color...Miss Wooden showed how Tang is made in seconds by merely mixing two rounded teaspoons of the powdered breakfast drink in a glass of cold water. It can be make as needed--by the glass, quart or more...When it is made up ahead of time, it should be stored in the refrigerator, the colder, the better flavor...And there's not separation. After Tang is mixed with water, ti stays in solution...'Tang' will be available in local markets by the first week in September."
---"New Breakfast Drink: In Vitamins A & C It Packs a Punch," Washington Post and Times Herald, August 28, 1958 (p. C14)

[1961]
"Tang, the orange flavored vitamin enriched breakfast drink which has been on the market for some time, has been joined by a new companion on the grocery shelves. It is Instant Tang Grapefruit Flavored Breakfast Drink, a start-sweet concoction with a true fruit taste. Like its predecessor, the new Tang comes in 7 ounce jars in powder form, to be mixed with water [be sure the water is ice cold for the best flavor] either a glass at a time or in a decanter."
---"'Round the Food Stores: For a Look at the Latest Ideas," Lois Baker, Chicago Daily Tribune, December 29, 1961 (p. B2)

[1962]
"Amazing but true: The richest orange flavor is not in the juice, not in the pulp, but locked in the rind of tree-ripened oranges. And that's where TANG gets is new natural flavor. It's the best tasting TANG that ever happened...So, for breakfast tomorrow, mix a decanterful of New natural Orange Flavor TANG tonight...By the way, better try New natural Grapefurit Flavor TANG too."
---display ad, Chicago Daily Tribune, September 23, 1962 (p. C 32)

[1969]
"'Because of the limitations of space, only the most vital earth elements can be taken aboard.' That's not the national Aeronautics and Space Administration talking. It's General Foods Corp. It claims Tang is one of the those 'vital earth elements.'...Just how 'vital' such items are to the moon effort might be open to discussion. But they're suddenly vital to the men of Madison Avenue. A lot of companies hope to make a lot of mileage out of the fact that some everyday products will be going along on the trip [Apollo 11]...There's hardly a company not trying to make some hay out of its connection with the Apollo program. And some of the advertising tie-ins are not being received enthusiastically by NASA..."We don't encourage it. But we don't discourage it as long as the ads are factual."...According to Sandra Meyer, senior product manager for Tang, a musical advertisem*nt extolling the drink's virtues has been prepared for quick substitution for the Apollo-related TV spots if anything goes wrong on Apollo 11. And grocery stores selling Tang have been cautioned not to use store promotions until it's clear the mission is successful. General Foods' newspaper ad show a moon superimposed on an all-black background. In the lower right hand corner a coupon reads: 'For earth people only: 12 cents off Tang." (Tang is also one-quarter sponsor of the American Broadcasting Co.'s space coverage this week at a cost of $500,000.)...And while General Foods is saying a lot about its orange flavored Tang, it's saying a lot less about the fact the astronauts will also have the choice of grapefruit, pineapple-grapefruit and grape flavored versions of the drink. The company test-marketed some of these flavors with ordinary customers and decided they wouldn't sell."
---"NASA Uneasy: Madison Avenue Capitalizing on Apollo Products," Robert E. Dallos, Los Angeles Times, July 17, 1969 (p. A1)

"Tang Instant Breakfast Drink has gone along with our astronauts since the Gemini flights of 1965...General Foods is quick to point out that it was not it that approached Aeronautics and Space Administration by the other way around, and that 'there are no contacts of payments involved.' Tang just met the space food requirements, that's all."
---"Advertising: Madison Ave. Takes a Trip to the Moon," Philip H. Dougherty, New York Times, June 29, 1969 (p. F16)

NASA recap
"For the record, the drink's origin had nothing to do with the space program. It wasdeveloped by General Foods in 1957, 12 years before man would set foot on the lunarsurface. But the Vitamin C-filled drink is indelibly tied with outer space, largely becauseit has been used by astronauts since the Gemini flights of 1965 - and because ofadvertising. "Tang Takes Off" bleats a 1965 General Foods newsletter that describesthe elaborate efforts to craft commercials tied to the Gemini flights. Later commercialsand ad promotions - from moon maps sent to thousands of schools to lunar modulereplicas on 18-ounce Tang jars - would reinforce the Tang-Space connection for years.Once widely popular, Tang is no longer the major player it once was. "Its sales are notnow what they were then," said Nancy Redmond, a spokeswoman for Kraft GeneralFoods. She attributed that mainly to changes in consumer tastes and the availability ofother drinks. Still, Redmond said, "Tang has its dedicated users." It's also nowavailable in mango flavor and sugar-free orange. Plastic containers have replaced theold glass jars. And Tang is still used regularly in space. "
---"Space-Tang Continuum; One Giant Leap," News & Record (Greensboro, NC), July 20, 1994 (p. D1)

Tang wasn't the only American product to capitalize on the space program. Remember Space Food Sticks? Tang's inventor also created Pop Rocks.

Tequila
"Tequila...its origins date to pre-Columbian times. Before the Spanish conquered Mexico, the indigenous people made a naturally fermented beverage called pulque from maguey plants. The Spanish transformed the fermented drink into a distilled one and createdmescal (also spelled 'mezcal'), the general category that includes tequila. For years tequila was not widely known outside Miexicoand adjacent areas of the United States. That situation changed after the Mexican government established the Norma Oficial Mexicana (called the Normas)...in 1978 to regulate tequila quality and consistency. According to the Normas, tequila must be made from the blue agave plant, a variety of the maguey plant called Agave tequilana Weber)...The plants must be grownon the volcanic soil of Jalisco province, which includes the town of Tequila, and designated nearby areas. Tequila must contain at least 51 percent blue agave juice. The other 40 percent can be cane or corn syrup or juices from other varieties of agave. Tequila made from 100 percent blue agave is so labled."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 536-537)

Why the worm?
"The agave plant contains a sweet sap at its heart called aquamiel ('honey water') that is made into a brandy called vino mezcal, which is tequila...Tax records of the town of Tequila show that Don Cenobio Sauzia shipped barrels of 'mezcal wine' to the U.S. in 1873, and American troops brought it back from their campaign against Pancho Villa in 1916. During a gin shortage in 1944 in this country tequila enjoyed a brief popularity, but it was not until the 1960s, when it became a faddish drink among California universitystudents, that the sales of the spirit really grew, especially as the basis for the Margarita co*cktail...The 'classic' way...to drink straight tequila, which required dried crushedworms from the agave plant in a shake of salt, was described by Green Peyton in his book San Antonio: City in the Sun (1946)."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York]1999 (p. 325)

Pulque & mescal
"All distilled maguey juices are mescals, a word derived from mexcalmetl, a Nauhuatl word for the agave plant...Much mescal is produced locally in the old-fashioned way. Mague pinas are placed in pits, covered with heated rocks and layers of fiber matting,and then allowed to cook for several days. The process gives mescal its distinctive smoky, earthy flavor. Once cooked, the mague is placed in wooden barrels and allowed to ferment for up to a month. The resultant mixture of fiber and liquid is distilled twice...Like tequila, mescal is classified as aged or not...Probably the best known outside Mexico is mescal con gusano, sold with a'worm' in the bottle. The 'worm' is really a larva of a moth that lives in the base of the maguey plant."

---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 537)

"If food was hedged about with prohibition, fermented liquor was even more so. There was, ofcourse, no distilled liquor unti the arrival of the Europeans, but there were many kinds of fermenteddrinks. Alcoholic liquids could be made from maize, honey, pineapples, cactus fruits, and many otherthings. The most important, which we have encountered in the Aztec version of the Aztec banquet,was pulque, a name of Antillean origin that replaces the Nahuatl uctli. It was made from certainspecies of the Agave, or century plant, or maguey, a spicy rosette-forming plant which is not acactus, belonging to the Agavacae family. When, after years of growth, the maguey is about to shootup a flowering stalk, the bud is cut out and the plant produces great quantities of sweet juice for abouttwo months. This juice, today called aguamiel, or honeywater, can be drunk as is, boiled down tomake syrup, boiled down more to make sugar, or fermented into pilque or vinegar. Pulque could beflavored with many roots and fruit, but the simple version is a whitish liquid with a peculiar but notunpleasant taste. Some of the additives were reputed to make it much stronger, but without thempulque contained only a few percents of alcohol. There are different stories as to who was permittedto drink pulque. Cooper-Clark says that it was old men and women over seventy who had childrenand grandchildren...Motolinia said it was permissible for those over fifty, because that was when theblood turned cold, and pulque warmed it and made it easier to sleep...In any case, only a few smallcups were allowed. At weddings and certain religious festivals the young were given pulque; onefeast was even called "when the children drink pulque," but it was always in strictly limitedquantities. Drinking was acceptable, intoxication was not. Pulque drinking must have been thought ofas plebian, because Motolinia says lords, princes, and warriors made it ia point of honor not to drinkit, preferring to drink chocolate, which was the prestige drink."
---America's First Cuisines, Sophie D. Coe [University of Texas Pres:Austin] 1994 (p. 84-85)

Margaritas
While no one questions the fact that
taquila is a Mexican product, there are conflicting storiesregarding the origin of the drink called Margarita:

"The margarita, a co*cktail made of tequila, triple sec, or Cointreau, and lime juice served in asalt-rimmed glass, was popularized by Victor J. Bergeron in his chain of Senor Pico restaurantsin California during the 1960s...While Bergeron popularized the margarita, he did not invent it.Several different origin stories for margaritas have circulated. According to Marion Gorman andFelipe de Alba's The Tequila Book, one story traces the margarita to the bar at the Caliente RaceTrack in Tijuana, Mexico about 1930. Another credits Dona Bertha, owner of Bertha's Bar inTaxco, Mexico, with the invention of a drink that later evolved into the margarita. The formerLos Angeles bartender Daniel Negrete claims to have originated the co*cktail in 1936 at the GarciCrespo Hotel in Puebla, Mexico...Whatever its origins, the margarita co*cktail quickly spreadthroughout America during the 1960s. It became a staple of Mexican restaurants in the UnitedStates. In Mexico, restaurants that attracted the American tourist trade adopted margaritas. Fromthe original margarita, Anglo tastes encouraged adaptations."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [OxfordUniversity Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 46-7)

"Margarita...there are several claims as the creation of the drink. One story traces the margarita tothe bar at the Caliente Race Track in Tijuana, Mexico, about 1930. Another credits Dona Bertha,owner of Bertita's bar in Tasca, Mexico, as having made the drink about 1930. Former LosAngeles bartender Daniel Negrete claims to have originated the co*cktail at the Farci CrespoHotel in Puebla, Mexico, in 1936 and named it after a girlfriend named Margarita. Still anotherstory gives the credit to a San Antonio, Texas, woman, Margarita Sames, who made the drink forhouseguests in 1948 while living in Acapulco. Yet another claim pinpoints the drink's birthplaceas the Tale of the co*ck Restaurant in Los Angeles about 1955 and says it was named after aHollywood starlet."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York]1999 (p. 199)

[1968]
"Margarita co*cktail

Juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 ounce Triple Sec
1 ounce Tequila
Shake and strain into a chilled champagne glass which has been edged with salt. To do this, rub the rim of the glass with a pieceof lime, then dip the rim into a saucer of salt. The Mexicans call their champagne glasses champaneros. We bought some amber-coloredones in Mexico-Mexican bubble glass. It was fun for a while serving co*cktails in these glasses, which came in all sizes and heights and sometimes a little lopsided--no two are ever alike--but it was so much trouble to import them and they broke at sucha fantastic rate that we finally had to have them made for us in this country. I still think the Mexican glass has more charm\but they just aren't practical for restaurant use."
---Trader Vic's Pacific Isand Cookbook, Victor Bergeron [Doubleday & Company:Garden City NY] 1968 (p. 185)

Recommended reading: The Tequila Book/Marion Gorman

Tomato juice
Andrew F. Smith, one of America's most respected and prolific food historians, launched his career studying/reporting on tomatoes. His first book: The Tomato in America [1994] is the cornerstone for all things tomato. Mr. Smith carefully/academically chronicles the introduction, recipe embracements, medicinal applications, social challenges and commercial successes of tomatoes in our country. Presumably, tomato juice descended from 19th century tomato pills & tomato syrup. These "modern" health preparations were prescribed for everyone from infants to infirmed requiring a serious infusion of vitamins. Decades before lycopine was discovered, medical professionals and housewives acknowledged the power of the tomato.

"The Campbell Soup Company's first major diversification was in tomato juice. The drinking of tomato juice was a mid-twentieth-centuryphenomenon. According to several accounts, tomato juice was the creation of the American-born French Chef Louis Perrin. In 1917he experimentally served tomato juice to his guests at a resort in French Lick Springs, Indiana. Chicago businessmen who spenttheir vacations at French Lick Springs purportedly spread the word to others about the 'tomato juice co*cktail in lieu of strongermixtures.' Although canned tomato co*cktails were growing more popular by the 1920s, none of the existing products yielded juice with just the right color and flavor. Tomato juice co*cktails were heralded during a Tri-State Packers Convention at Philadelphia;sAdlephia Hotel in 1922. A can manufacturer served tomato juice free of charge to each participant in the annual banquet in hopes that canners would pack tomato juice. By this date, tomato juice was touted as a health drink and was served in hospitals. Accordingto Dr. Hugo Friedstein of Chicago's Children's Memorial Hospital, the vitamin content of tomato juice did 'marvelous things in cleansinhg the system.' Yet it was not canned commercially. The reason for the failure of canned tomato juice as that tomato solids settledatthe bottom of the can, or the class the juice as poured into. In 1924 an Indianapolis pediatrician discussed this problem with his friend Ralph Kemp of Frankfort, Indiana. Kemp had majored in agricultural engineering at the University of Wisconsin and atthe time worked with his father, John Kemp, operating a canning plant. Intrigued with the challenge, the Kemps began experimentingto find a way to break tomato pulp into minute particles that would float in the juice. Their solution was to use a viscolizerpreviously employed in the manufacture of ice cream. It required a great deal of adaption to be used successsfully canning tomatojuice. After four years of work, the Kemps finally succeeded. In 1928 they applied for a patent and initiated the first national advertising campaign for their tomato juice. Tomato juice was an instant hit with the American public. The Campbell Soup Company moved itnohigh gear to produce its own tomato juice. Campbell converted part of Camden's Plant No. 2, built during the 1920s, for makintomato soup. The problem now became what tomato variety should be grown for making juice. After experimentation, a tomato was found that met theneeds. Campbell released its version of tomato juice in 1931. In 1932 Campbell launched a major marketing drive for its tomatojuice, and by 1935 30 percent of Campbell tomatoes went into making that product. By the following year, cookbooks includedrecipes using Campbell's tomato juice as an ingredient. Another reason tomato juice was so succesful was the end of Prohibition. Aco*cktail made of tomato juice and vodka was probably first developed at Harry's Bar in Paris by Ferdinand 'Pete" Petiot. Petiotmoved to New York in 1933 and introduced his new creation. After experimentation, he added Worcestershire sauce and called ita Bloody Mary. Its name was supposedly derived from the British Queen Mary I, who killed many Protestants during her reign in themid-sixteenth century, Others claim that Mary was Petiot's girlfriend...Tomato juice was a natural addition to the Campbell SoupCompany, which had been built on the tomato. Its introduction, however, reversed the corporate decision to focus soley on soupmaking. The implications of this trend would not be felt for decades. Shortly after World War II ended, Campbell SoupCompany made another logical addition when it purchased V8 juice from Standard Brands."
---Souper Tomatoes: The Story of America's Favorite Food, Andrew F. Smith [Rutgers University Press:New Brunswick NJ] 2000 (p. 92-93)

[1913]
"Tomato Juice Valuable. Tomato juice will remove ink stains from linen."
---Chicago Defender, October 25, 1913 (p. 3)

[1922]
"The first thing you should know about tomatoes is that when oranges are very expensive and the baby must have orange juice, thatvery often the physician will let you use tomato juice instead."
---"Tomatoes Rich in Vitamines," Los Angeles Times, September30, 1922 (p. I16).

Michigan State University's Feeding America historical cookbooks offers 13 pre-1922 recipes using Tomato Juice.

[1928 & 1953]
"Twenty-five years ago this month, canned tomato juice was introduced to consumers. It appeared after four years of proccessingresearch by the kemp Brothers Packing Comapny of Frankfort, Ind., which had in mind the development of a new baby food. But the infants turned out to be a minor market as compared with the appeal 'liquid tomato' had on the general trade in groceries and on restaurants. From the pack of about 1,5000,000 cases in 1930, tomato juice has swelled to an output that this year is expected to toatl 28,500,000cases. The United States Department of Agriculture found a few years ago that this juice was purchased more often than any other canned single-strength juice. About 44 per cent of the famlies in the United States bought it. The success story of this productstems not only form its attractive tang and tint, but also from the fact that canned tomato juice is both cheap and high in nutrients. At a current cost of 29 cnets for a forty-six ounce can, the juice costs about 2 1/2 cents for a half-cup serving. Thisquantity supplies aobut a fourth of the Vitamin A and C needs of the physically active amn....Largely consumed exclusivelyin this country (a little is exported to Cuba and Canada), tomat juice is primarily a berverage. But, on occasion, it supplies the liquid for an aspic, is heated to provide a bracing hot soup...and takes the place of other liquids in cheese soufles, main dish dumplings and meat stews."
---"News of Food: Canned Tomato Juice on Market 25 Years," Jane Nickerson, New York Times, October 13, 1953 (p. 32)

Related foods? Tomato Sauce, Gazpacho &Bloody Mary co*cktails.

Ice
Food historians tell us hunter-gatherers inhabiting northern regions used ice for storage and foodpreservation. This was a matter of practicality, not choice. Cooled drinks and frozen desserts,such as lemonade, iced tea, and flavored ices, were enjoyed by upper-class ancient civilizations.Both lemons and tea are "Old World" foods. Early records of consumption place the origins ofthese drinks in the Mediterranean regions and Asia, respectively. These beverages wereintroduced to America by European settlers. Economics of the Ice trade expanded the markets forcold drinks in the mid-nineteenth century. Lemonade and iced tea (along with several otherpopular food innovations) are sometimes touted as having been "invented" at the St. LouisExposition in 1904. This is not true. Culinary evidence confirms both were known long beforethat year. Their rise to popularity in our country is sometimes attributed to the Temperance(anti-alcohol) Movement of the late 19th/early 20th centuries.

"Storing food and drink in low temperatures is an ancient practice The cold air of a natural caveor the cool environment of a well-insulated underground pit or chamber worked as naturalrefrigerators for grains and root crops. Furthermore, just as hunters on the arid plains found theirkill would dry out in the sun, so hunters of the icebound regions must have discovered that meatleft in the snow or freezing, icy winds would also keep, at least until it thawed. Keeping food coolslows down the bacterial action in food, thereby helping the food stored safely for longer, aprocess now known as refrigeration. Microoganisms do not like the cold. It slows down theirmetabolism and makes them sluggish, unable to reproduce...freezing does not actually destroy theorganism; it merely puts them into a chilling limbo until they and the food they inhabit aredefrosted. While the hunter may have temporarily lost some meat in the freezing snow, he mightalso have buried some "overkill" of meat or fish in the ground to hide it from predators or rivalhunting parties....Sometimes, where the right conditions were available, the technique developedof freezing food to preserve it....In...northern regions, food became frozen unavoidably, and thefact that the food was preserved was a fortunate by unsought side effect... "In warmer regions, ice was only used for cooling, although people have enjoyed chilleddrinks and cooled food in the most unlikely places. Ice pits and icehouses were known to havebeen built in Mesopotamia almost four thousand years ago, and the powerful and wealthy menand women of Persia, Egypt, Rome, and Greece were accustomed to being served cold drinks andchilled fruits even in the hottest weather. Alexander the Great ordered trenches to be dug at Petra,filled with winter snow, and covered with oak branches so that his soldiers could drink cooledwine in summertime. As well as chilling drinks, snow and ice were also used by physicians to treatpatients with fever, inflammation, and stomach complaints. So all around the Mediterranean, snowwas collected from the mountains and carried down to the cities, where it was sold daily or storedin ice houses. The snow was packed hard into pits and covered with branches, straw, leaf mats, orcoarse cloth. The Chinese...were harvesting and storing ice by at least 1100 B.C....Sometimes theice had to travel many miles. Thirteenth- and fourteenth-century Egyptian royalty had their iceshipped from the mountains of Lebanon all the way to Cairo...Like sugar, ice became a part of thefabulous sparkling jewelery of banquets, with centerpieces of elaborate ice sculptures, sugartrifoni, chilly jellies, iced sherberts, and glass or silver bowls of ice-encrusted fruits...By thesixteenth century numerous palaces, estates, chateaux, abbeys, and monestaries throughoutEurope, the Middle east, and China had their own icehouses. Soon, anyone with aspirations toelegant living had ice or snow houses built, and by the eighteenth century many of these hadacquired architectural pretentions, with Gothic arches or Grecian pillars...The basicconstruction...changed little up to the nineteenth century...But ice was not just the preserve of therich; in some parts of Europe the peasants erected simple ice stacks made from branches, heather,and pete near ponds, flooded meadows, lakes, and slow-moving rivers that froze in winterime.Although icehouses were principally used for storing ice rather than for preserving food, theygradually came to be seen as useful refrigerators for food...The increasing demand for clean,good-quality ice opened an important new market. In Europe, when a mild winter failed toproduce ice, people had to look north, to Greenland and Norway...In nineteenth-century Paris andLondon, cooks, confectioners, butchers, fishmongers, and wine merchants all rushed to buy fromship bringing cargoes of ice form the "Greenland seas." Ice harvesting was a dangerousbusiness...competition...soon began flooding the market..."
---Pickled, Potted and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Preserving Changed theWorld, Sue Shepard [Simon & Schuster:New York] 2000 (p. 280-5)

"Ice has been used to preserve food and cool beverages for thousands of years. WealthyEuropeans brought their appreciation of icy desserts and iced drinks with them to the New World.Archaeolgists at Jamestown, Virginia, found ice pits dating from as early as the seventeenthcentury. The colonists cut ice from ponds, lakes, and rivers during the winter and stored it incaves and underground cellars to last through the hot summer months. In the eighteenth century,icehouse, which are more efficient than cellars, provided cold storage, as well as preserving ice forchilling food and drink and making ice cream. Ice was advertised for sale in Philadelphianewspapers as early as 1784, and Europeans visiting Philadelphia and Baltimore in the 1790sreported that Americans drank water with ice and that containers of ice were used to cool hotelrooms. The first recorded cargo of ice was shipped from New York to Charleston, SouthCarolina, in 1799, and between 1805 and 1860 Frederick Tudor, a Boston merchant, grew richshipping harvested ice from Massachusetts ponds overseas. Tudor, known as the Ice King,promoted the construction and use of ice chests, sent agents to help establish businesses sellingice cream, extolled the virtues of ice for preserving food, and promoted the sale of carbonatedwater, which he thought tasted better cold. He even offered bar owners free ice for a year if theyagreed to sell iced drinks at the same price as warm ones."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [OxfordUniversity Press:New York] 2004, Volume 1 (p. 700-1)

Recommended reading:
American Ice Harvests: A Historical Study in Techology, 1800-1918/Richard O. Cummings
...includes industry statistics, illustrations, citations to primary sources
The Frozen-Water Trade/Gavin Weightman
...details about Frederic Tudor's ice business, early 19th century
Harvest of the Cold Months/Elizabeth David
...a social history of ice and ices

Wine bottles: a short course in evolution, size & pricing
Have you ever wondered why wine bottles are shaped the way they are? Why are some different sizes & colors? The history of wine containers is a study in human techonology, economics, and politics. Salud!

"Today it may be taken for granted that wine bottles of different colours and shapes will hold a precise capacity. Nor is it questioned that a paper label will be firmly fixed to the bottle to give a plethora of information, much of it required by law. These are recent developments. In classical antiquity wine was stored and transported in large, long jars called amphorae. They varied considerably in size but it would certainly be difficult to pour a drinking quantity form such an awkward and big vessel, without using some sort of intermediate container. The Romans invented the technique of blowing glass bottles and some of these may well have been used to serve wine. Pottery and stoneware jugs were used for centuries in Europe for serving wine, but glass took over as technology to make glass in commercial quantities spread in the 17th century, and by the end of it glass bottles were plentiful, although reserved for the upper classes. Shape. Early bottles have more or less globular bodies with long conical necks. The form developed... becoming lower and wider in Britain, while on mainland Europe the flask-shape with an oval cross-section was popular. From c. 1690 to 1720, the outline of a bottle resembled that of an onion--a wide compressed globlular body with a short neck. Larger bottles were made too, whose shape resembled an inflated balloon or bladder...By the 1720s the 'onion' became taller and the sides flatter...Naturally occurring impurities in the constituent ingredients gave glass an olive green hue which varied from pale to almost black and was beneficial to the bottled wine as it excluded light. Most bottles had an applied ring of glass just below the neck which gave an anchorage to the string used to hold in a variety of stoppers...Wine drinkers made an important discovery in the 1730s. While it was known that some vintages of wine were better than others even in prehistory, their keeping and consequent maturing qualities were not realized until the introduction of binning, the storing of wines in bottles laid on their sides...In 1821 Rickets of Bristol patented a machine for moulding bottles of uniform size and shape...Thus the modern wine bottle had evolved...From 1636, at about the time of the first appearance of glass bottles in post-Roman Britain, it was illegal to sell wine by the bottle. The consumer protection measure was on account of vintner's willingness to take advantage of the varying capacity of blown bottles. From that time and for the next 230 years, wine was sold by the measure and then bottled. Customers who bought regularly had their own bottles and had them marked in order to distinguish them from any other that might be at the vintner's premises waiting to be filled. The usual marking was the attachment at the end of the production process of a disc seal of the same glass as the bottle, upon which was impressed the owner's initials, name, or heraldic device, often accompanied by the date, Innkeepers and taverners had appropriately marked, or 'sealed', bottles too. It may be noted here that these seals did not indicate contents... Bottles with paper labels indicating the contents, first had written and later printed, emerged during the opening years of the 19th century, but in Britain the law prohibiting wine from being sold by the bottle was not relaxed until 1860... The size and shape of early bottles was, to an extent, a hit and miss affair. Perhaps the 'standard' size was the natural result of a lungful of air, but bottles were made in a variety of sizes from early times."
---Oxford Companion to Wine, Jancis Robinson editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2nd edition, 1999 (p. 96-97)

When did the large format bottle names begin?
English language history source generally agree on the the 19th century. Entries in the Oxford English Dictionary suggest these names were not codified by one person at a specific time. They evolved. The earliest print reference cited by The Oxford English Dictionary for Rehoboamdates to 1841. Note: this OED definition does not specify bottle dimension or volume. Later definitions sometimes reference bottle size.

USA wine bottle sizes & standardization
Our survey of late 19th/early 20th century USA wine ads and menus offers regular references to bottled wine being sold in quarts and pints. Menus include both domestic andimports but don't dwell on bottle sizes. In fact? The difference between domestic and European wine bottle sizes quietly ferments until the early 1970s.

[1889]
"New-York has a fair prospect to pay $4 for every quart and $2 for every pint of champagne that it drinks in any of the fashionable hotels and restaurants after the 1st of next month."
---"A Champagne Combine, Fashionable hotels intend to put up prices," New York Times, October 19, 1889 (p. 1)

[1902]
Wine list Pabst Restaurant/Pan-American Exposition/Buffalo...wine by the pint, quart or glass.

[1952] "Bottles are containers in which to store and carry liquids. The earliest bottles were made of skins sewed together, but the Ancients also had bottles made of stone, alabaster, glass, ivory, horn, silver, and common earthenware. Modern wine-bottles are made of glass composed chiefly of silica, soda and lime in varying proportion. The shades of green of wine-bottles, other than plain white ones, are imparted by iron oxide. Quart and pint bottles must, by law, contain a fourth and an eighth of a gallon, but the actual liquid contents of bottles, half-bottles or quarter-bottles are not legally defined, a fact taken advantage of by some unscrupulous dealers in wine. According to current commercial usage, wine-bottles should never appreciably vary from the accepted standard of contents of 26 3/2 fluid ounces per reputed quart, or 6 quarts to the gallon, equal to 4 imperial quarts of 40 fluid ounces each. The more usual names of bottles in Great Britain, besides half-bottles and quarter-bottles are the magnum (two bottles), double-magnum (four bottles), tappit-hen (three imperial quarts), imperial pint (three-quarters of the reputed quart or ordinary bottle).
Outsize bottles, for show purposes more than for practical use.
Jeroboam or Double-Magnum (4 bottles or 3.20 litres or 0.70 gallons), Rehoboam (6 bottles or 4.80 liters or 1.05 gallons), Methuselah (8 bottles or 6.40 litres or 1.40 gallons), Salmanazar (12 bottles or 9.70 litres or 2.10 gallons), Balthazar (16 bottles or 12.80 litres or 2.80 gallons), Nebuchadnezzar (20 bottles or 16.00 litres or 3.50 gallons).
In France, the fluid contents of various bottles are fixed by law as follows:
Litre (100 centilitres or .220 gallon), Champagne (80 centilitres or 0.176 gallon), Burgundy (80 centilitres or 0.176 gallon), Bordeaux (75 centilitres or 0.165 gallon), Anjou (75 centilitres or 0.165 gallon), Alsace (72 centilitres or 0.158 gallon), St. Galmier (90 centilitres or 0.193 gallon), Vichy (80 centilitres or 0.176 gallon), Vittel (75 centilitres or 0.165 gallon)."
---A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, Andre L. Simon [Harcourt, Brace and Company:New York] 1952 (p. 685)

[1965]
"Wine bottle sizes.
Fifth (4/5-qt., the most common size), 25.6 fluid ounces, approximate measurement for recipe use 3 1/8 cups
Tenth (4/5-pt., a half bottle), 12.8 fluid ounces, 1 1/2 cups
Quart, 32 fluid ounces, 4 cups
Half-gallon jug or bottle, 64 fluid ounces, 8 cups
Gallon jug, 128 fluid ounces, 16 cups
Wine 'bottle' when mentioned in this book means 25.6 fluid ounces. This size is also referred to as a 'fifth,' meaning 1/5 gallon, or 4/5 quart, or simply 'large bottle'."
---Adventures in Wine Cookery, by California Winemakers, edited by Bernice T. Glenn, a new collection of recipes published by Wine Advisory Board, San Francisco [CA] 1965 (p. 12)

[1971]
"The size of wine bottles could become the next addition to the growing list of trade disputes between the European Common Market and the United States. France has asked the commission of the six-nation unit to protest the the United States about a proposal put forward by the California Wine Institute that would forbid the import of wine into America in bottles not of standard Americans sizes. The French and their Common Market partners say that the move is an attempt by the California wine industry to hamper their European competitors, who in 1969 sold $64.5-million of wine to the United States, almost all of it in the standard 70-centiliter European bottle."
---"Wine-Bottle Sizes Uncork a Dispute," New York Times, August 12, 1971 (p. 45)

[1972]
"You wander into your favorite wine shop to pick up a bottle for dinner. On one shelf rests a nice Cabernet Sauvignon from California for $3.50. Nearby, however, is a bottle of French wine at the same price. You cogitate for awhile and finally opt for the import. But which bottle really gives you your money's worth? Quality aside, the answer is the California wine, simply because the bottle undoubtedly is bigger. At first glance, you might think the California winemakers would be proud to give the consumer more for his money. You're wrong. The difference in sizes has raised the hackles of many vintners hereabouts who are crying unfair competition for themselves and misleading packaging for the consumer...At issue are U.S. regulations which tightly control the bottle sizes for wine produced in this country but not for imports...As such, the standard bottle size for U.S. wine is a fifth of a gallon, or 25.6 ounces. But in Europe, which is on the metric system, the standard size is only about 23.66 ounces, often cited on labels as 1 pint, 8 ounces. This means that a 12-bottle cause of domestic wine would equal about 13 bottles of imported. Moreover... wines from around the world flow into the U.S. is 'a bewildering number of sizes.'...As the Wine Institute sees it the problems is two-fold. First, wine is taxed on a gallon basis. So, a bottle of imported wine is taxed a smaller dollar amount right here in the U.S. than its domestic counterpart...Obviously, vintners might feel they're being placed at a disadvantage in their own market. Also, some contend, consumer assume they're getting a full fifth of wine when buying an import rather than a smaller bottle even though the quantity is listed on the label. Fueling this notion...is the fact many imports have push-up bottoms which take up space and make the bottle seem bigger...For...the Wine Institute, the solution is simple: Make all wine sold in the U.S. conform to the same regulations, in this case the standards now applied to U.S. wine...But assuming the problem does exist, is this the correct answer? Some voices within the California wine industry say 'No...there is a good case for the adoption of the metric system by the United States."
---"A Tempest in a Wine Bottle," James E. Bylin, Wall Street Journal, August 23, 1972 (p. 8)

[1973]
"For years, American winemakers have battled--unsuccessfully--to force European vintners to bottle their wine according the United States standards of fill: pints, quarts and gallons. Recently, in a dramatic turnaround, the powerful California Wine Institute proposed that Americans switch to the metric system. At their winter meeting in Palm Springs last month, the institute's directors voted unanimously to create a special board to study adoption of the metric system. As reported in Wines & Vines, a trade publication, the directors even came up with a list of possible bottle sizes: quart-liter, half-liter, three-quarter-liter, liter, two-, three and four-liter. Traditionally, the California Wine Institute has opposed the increasing number of imports being sold in this country in bottles resembling the standard fifth of a gallon. Several years ago, a representative of the institute charged that many foreign wines arrived in bottles closely resembling American ones but containing 5 to 10 per cent less. A 'fifth' of wine or Scotch or anything else is supposed to contain 25.6 ounces of liquid...Frank Schoonmaker, one of the most famous Americans in the wine world, defended the Europeans...[he] voiced particular concern for older wines, many of which had been aging for years. To transfer them to new bottles, 'in nine cases out of ten, would destroy their value and render them unsalable.' He pointed out too, that the typical European bottles 'have been used abroad since long before the first vineyard was planted in California.' What's more, Mr. Schoonmaker continued, 'The idea that American drinkers of imported wine-- a reasonably literate segment of our population, one might suppose--are confused and cheated by 'nonstandard' bottles... is laughable.' That may be true. At the same time, the profusion of bottle sizes now coming into this country is almost bound to be confusing to anyone concerned with just how much wine he is getting for his money. The traditional French wine bottles contain 75 centiliters. That is true both of the slab-sided round-shouldered bordeaux bottle and the gently-sloped burgundy bottle, both of which are widely imitated in this country and around the world. The 75-centiliter bottle holds 25.36 ounces, a mere fraction less than the American 'fifth.' But there has been a trend, particularly in France, to switch to a slightly smaller bottle, holding 72 centiliters. Only the most practiced eye can spot these smaller bottles on a wine shop shelf and in many cases, the labels on the 75-centiliter bottles and the labels on the 72-centiliter bottles are identical; they both say either 1 pint, 8 ounces or 3/4 ths of a quart. To complicate things, the Alsatians prefer a bottle that holds 24.5 ounces; there are German wines that hold 23.5 ounces, and other European wines ranging anywhere form 22 ounces up. There is also a 'pot' bottle that is actually about 50 centiliters--less than a 'fifth' but slightly more than a pint. One importer here predicted that the 75-centiliter bottle would eventually become a collector's item."
---"Wine Talk: Quiet Controversy Rages Over a Proposal to Change Bottle Sizes," Frank J. Prial, New York Times, January 27, 1973 (p. 18)

[1974]
"The wine industry will lead the United States into the metric system. And while it's about it, bury an old bone of contention between U.S. and foreign producers. The Treasury announced Tuesday in Washington that domestic and imported wines must be bottled in seven standard metric sizes beginning in 1979. This will be the earliest conversion date for any U.S. industry. The changeover will reduce the number of domestic wine bottle sizes to seven from 16 and the number of imported sizes to seven from 27...Robert M. Ivie, chairman of the board of the Wine Institute in San Francisco and a member of the metric conversion committee, said, 'California and imported wine will be sold in the same sized bottles, making price comparisons simpler.'...Ivie said the Treasury ruling is the result of five years of planning and negotiation between the European Economic Community member nations and the U.S. wine industry. Part of the problem was getting a standard size measure within Europe itself...Roy Camozzi, an attorney for the Wine Institute, pointed out that it will be many years before the last of the 'old' size bottles is seen in the market place because many wines are aged in the bottle for long periods before sale. The changes from the present sizes used by U.S. wine producers are actually slight. The U.S. fifth contains 25.6 ounces, which will become 3/4 liter, or 25.4 ounces, in the metric size. The changes for foreign producers will be somewhat greater since thy previously have been exporting bottles of 21, 22 or 24 ounces. The U.S. gallon and half-gallon sizes will be eliminated. California vintners Tuesday were generally pleased by the ruling, seeing little extra cost except that for the original new glass moulds. And they expect this to be made up by the slight reduction in taxes even though few believe the lower taxes will last. The changes from the present sizes used by U.S. producers:
Present sizes, Ounces & Metric sizes, Ounces
jeroboam 102.4 3 litres 101.4
magnum 51.2 1 1/2 litres 50.7
quart 32 1 litre 33.6
fifth 25.6 3/4 litre 25.4
tenth 12.8 3/8 litre 12.7
split 4.6 3.16 litre 6.3"
---"New Bottle Sizes: U.S. to Get Taste of Metric System from a Wine Jug," Carl Cannon, Los Angeles Times, December 11, 1974 (p. F13)

[1977]
"Bringing the United States into conformity with the rest of the world, most of which operates on the metric system rather than the Imperial (British) or U.S. Customary systems, has been an uphill fight...Consumers are understandably reluctant to switch from a system of weights and measures they understand to one that reads like a foreign language to them...John Bing of San Diego...writes 'While shopping the other day, I came across something that illustrates why many consumers have misgivings about the coming age of the metric system in the United States. The California wine industry is converting to metric measures and the 'new size' bottles are beginning to appear on some dealers's shelves...half-gallon bottles of popular jug wines that sold statewide for $2.29 are being replaced by 1.5-liter bottles-- containing roughly 13 ounces less-that also sell for $2.29. Or, to put it another way, this is a markup of about 20% over the fair-graded half-gallon price."
---"Consumer Advocate: Old Wine Prices on New Bottles," Ellen Stern Harris, Los Angeles Times, April 10, 1977 (p. E4)
[NOTE: The relationship between shrinking product sizes and rising consumer prices is a recurring theme in many edible industries from ancient times forward.]

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