The Invention of the Polo Shirt (2024)

The polo shirt is arguably one of the most iconicpieces of menswear to arise within the last century. The shirt’s name comes from the popular game of “polo,” or “the sport of kings,” which has historically been enjoyed by the upper crust of society for centuries. If you’ve ever seen the Ralph Lauren logo—the horseback riding man holding a mallet—then you’re already familiar with it.A graceful convergence of elegance, leisure, and sporting,the polo shirt hasfound a home among both young and old, rich and poor.

But even though the name can be traced back to an age-old aristocratic pastime, the current style we know and love today looks nothing like the one worn by royalty, which wasan early version of thebutton-down dress shirt. That’s because the invention of the modern polo can be credited to just one man: a French tennis star by the name of Jean René Lacoste.

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TheAthlete

René was a legend in the sport. So much so that he was nicknamed “the crocodile” by the press, which later came to define his name and brand. This was partly due to his relentless pursuit of opponents on the tennis court, but alsobecause of a bet he made withthe captain ofthe French Davis Cupteam who promised to buy him a beautiful crocodile skin suitcase in exchange for a win (he lost the bet).In the span of his brief career, René won a total of seven Grand Slam tournaments, including three French Opens, two U.S. Opens, and two Wimbledons. He and his teammates—collectively dubbed “The Four Musketeers”—were a dominant force in the sport, securing Davis Cup victories six years in a row for their home country of France. This during a time when Australia and the United States seemed to be unstoppable.

The Invention of the Polo Shirt (1)

TheVisionary

But René also had big ideas. At the time, tennis players had a strict dress code. They were to wear only starched white dress shirts, white trousers made of heavy wool, white shoes and, if they so desired, a white flat cap. Clearly, it wasn’t enough to put on a grueling hour-long performance; they were also expected to look good while doing so.

You might think white-colored outfits were merely a product of upper class, Victorian era modesty—a holdover from a bygone era. And that is certainly true to some extent, but the outfit also served a practical purpose: concealing unsightly sweat stains. Even to this day, the annual Wimbledon Championships in London enforce “tennis whites” as required wear. Why? Because . . . “tradition.”

Truth be told, athletes were already flaunting these requirements well before René resolved to do something about it. Old black and white photos attest to the fact that the long sleeves were frequently rolled up to allow for more freedom of movement. The shirts were starched, making them pleasing to the eyes, but stiff and uncomfortable. And to make matters worse, the weave prevented proper air flow, leaving the tennis player exhausted and overheated. From René’s perspective, something had to change.

So, he went to work designing a shirt that he himself would find pleasing to wear. Long sleeves were cut short. A stiff collar was replaced by a flexible one that could be upturned to protect the wearer from sunburn. The fully buttoned front became a 3-button placket that could be comfortably loosened at the neckline. And the back was made slightly longer to keep the garment secure when tucked.

But René also did the unthinkable. He replaced the standard shirt with a piqué cotton knit—a new method at the time—that was infinitely cooling and noticeably lighter.

In 1926, René unveiled his new creation to the world. There, at the U.S. National Championships, he would defeat his fellow musketeer Jean Borotra, who had also made it to the finals. Wearing his soon-to-be signature attire, the crocodile swung his way to a solid victory, securing his first ever U.S. title. And so the polo shirt was born.

The Invention of the Polo Shirt (2)

The Fashion Icon

The athlete turned entrepreneur came to prominence in the midst of a post-WWI cultural renaissance. Known as the Années folles in France, or “crazy years,” it was a decade of great innovation in Parisian fashion—a time when people began to placegreater importance on beauty and creative expression. This became fertile ground forRené tomake his vision a reality.

In 1933, after his career was cut short by tuberculosis, René partnered with top textile manufacturer, André Gillier, to help produce his first line of white polo shirts under the company name "La Chemise Lacoste," or "The Lacoste Shirt."Their slogan?

"Watch out for the crocodile… there is only one LACOSTE SHIRT."Against the advice of his friends,René decided to havea smallcrocodile logoembroidered on the chest. This turned out to be a smart move because it would soon become a symbol of the brand's unwavering commitment toexcellence.

The Invention of the Polo Shirt (2024)

FAQs

Why was the polo shirt invented? ›

The polo shirt as we know it today was invented in the mid-1920s by Mr René Lacoste, an enterprising French tennis player who was looking for a comfortable alternative to the elegant, if a little starchy, tennis whites of the day – white flannel trousers, a V-neck sweater and a long-sleeved shirt, often worn with a tie ...

What makes a polo shirt a polo shirt? ›

A polo shirt features a soft welted collar and cuffs, with a collar that can be turned up to keep sun off the wearer's neck, a slightly longer tail to keep the shirt tucked in, and no breast pocket. They're usually made of knitted 100% cotton, often a piqué knit and appropriate for indoor wear.

What is the history of the Brooks Brothers polo shirt? ›

John E. Brooks of the American apparel company Brooks Brothers noticed that players fastened them with pins or buttons when he visited England in the late 1800s. On returning to the States, he introduced button-down collars onto all his dress shirts, introducing the first mass-marketed button-down polo shirt in 1896.

What are polo shirts without a collar called? ›

A Henley is not considered a collared shirt - this lack of a collar is the key distinguishing feature between a Henley and a Polo – giving the Henley a unique look with the formal feeling buttoned placket, but also the cosy and comfortable lack of a collar.

Why was polo invented? ›

A game of Central Asian origin, polo was first played in Persia (Iran) at dates given from the 6th century bc to the 1st century ad. Polo was at first a training game for cavalry units, usually the king's guard or other elite troops.

Why were polos made? ›

The earliest known polo shirt was created in India in the early 19th Century. The equestrian sport of polo, often played in high temperatures, required a lightweight and breathable garment, and was inspired by the round-neck tunics worn by Indian aristocrats at the time.

Is a polo shirt a t-shirt? ›

Polo shirts are more formal than t shirts and can be worn for smart casual wear, while t shirts are typically worn for casual wear only. Polo shirts have a standard design with a collar, while t shirts can come in many designs, including crew neck, V-neck, and U-neck.

What is the proper name for a polo shirt? ›

A polo shirt, tennis shirt, golf shirt, or chukker shirt is a form of shirt with a collar. Polo shirts are usually short sleeved but can be long; they were used by polo players originally in India in 1859 and in Great Britain during the 1920s.

Why do polo shirts have slits? ›

Some styles have side vents which means they are split approximately two inches up from the bottom hem. This allows the shirt to be tucked in more easily.

What does the polo shirt logo mean? ›

The logo was introduced in 1971 and features a polo player riding a horse, set against the backdrop of a polo field. The logo is meant to evoke a sense of timeless, classic style and a preppy, affluent lifestyle, and has become one of the most recognizable fashion logos in the world.

Where are original polo shirts made? ›

The Ralph Lauren Corporation started in 1967 with men's ties. 50% of their shirts are made in China, others in Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Philippines, Vietnam and Pakistan.

Who owns polo tshirt? ›

Lauren started The Ralph Lauren Corporation in 1967 with men's ties. At 28 years old, he worked for the tie manufacturer Beau Brummell. Lauren persuaded the company's president to let him start his own line. Drawing on his interests in sports, Lauren named his first full line of menswear "Polo" in 1968.

Are there two types of polo? ›

Polos are commonly made of knitted fabrics that are easily recognizable by their braid-like pattern. Most polos are knitted and there are two main types or structures: pique and jersey.

What to wear instead of a polo shirt? ›

Instead, try a popover – a pullover shirt with a half-placket front. Before shirts were made with coat fronts – that is, where the opening goes from the collar to the hem, like a coat – they were constructed with half-plackets, such as this button-down.

Why are polo shirts called polos? ›

The first polo shirts were literally shirts in which to play polo, as you'd imagine. Polo was hugely popular in India throughout the 19th Century i.e. when Britain had its greasy empirical paws wrapped around a quarter of the Earth's land mass, India included.

What is the story of polo shirt? ›

This shirt was the first to have a buttoned-down collar, which polo players invented in the late 19th century to keep their collars from flapping in the wind. Brooks Brothers' early president, John Brooks, noticed this while at a polo match in England and began producing such a shirt in 1896.

Why did Ralph Lauren start polo? ›

Lauren started The Ralph Lauren Corporation in 1967 with men's ties. At 28 years old, he worked for the tie manufacturer Beau Brummell. Lauren persuaded the company's president to let him start his own line. Drawing on his interests in sports, Lauren named his first full line of menswear "Polo" in 1968.

What is the story behind polo logo? ›

The iconic Polo by Ralph Lauren logo was designed by a famous tennis player with French roots, Rene Lacoste. The first version of the logo with a polo player was introduced in the middle of the 1970s, a few years after the establishment of the company.

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