The September 12, 1953 nuptials of Jacqueline Lee Kennedy Onassis (née Bouvier) to then US senator John F. Kennedy lives on in history as a homegrown fairy tale (or de facto royal) wedding, down to Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress made by African American couturier Ann Lowe.
Lifemagazine sent photographer Lisa Larsen to document the event for a story detailing the scene where “600 diplomats, senators, and social figures” attended the Newport, Rhode Island, ceremony presided over by the Archbishop of Boston. (Pope Pius XII evensent a special blessing.) “Outside, 2,000 society fans” hailed the newlyweds, who would later shake hands with 900 reception guests. “The whole affair, said one enthusiastic guest, was ‘just like a coronation,’”Lifereported.
On the eve of the civil rights movement, the union of the future president and first lady portended theromanticized Camelot White House era and also established Kennedy Onassis as an American style icon.Elizabeth Way—associate curator at The Museum at FIT and author ofBlack Designers in American Fashion—explains images of Kennedy Onassis on her wedding day were “very widely circulated,” including the front page ofTheNew York Times. “This was even before Jackie Kennedy had earned this reputation as this veryfashion-forward first lady,” Way says. “So the images of her wedding dress are arguably, still today, this big fashion moment for women.”
But in a universally relatable situation, the bride’s future in-laws wielded authority over the big day, including the wedding dress. Just returned from Paris, the socialite andneophyte journalist reportedly preferred a French designer, but the Kennedy patriarch and DC kingmaker, Joseph,insisted Kennedy Onassis wear an American brand to send a message of diplomacy. “There were so many other stakeholders besides Jacqueline Bouvier and John F. Kennedy,” Way says. “His family and her family—it was these dynasties coming together and creating this political American moment.”
Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress designer, Ann Lowe, was a sought-after dressmaker to elite East Coast families—like the Rockefellers, Du Ponts, and Roosevelts—for bespoke bridal and debutante gowns. Lowe also designed the nuptial dress of Kennedy Onassis’s mother, Janet Auchinchloss, as well as the debutante confections of sister Lee and stepsister Nina Auchincloss. “She was an American couturier dressing some of the most noted ladies of her time,” says Neil Brown, CEO of Amsale, which he co-founded with his late wife, Amsale Aberra. The Ethiopian American bridal designer is celebrated for defining the modern American wedding dress, and the New York City–based brand continues creating opportunities for aspiring Black fashion designers through theAmsale Aspire initiative.
Lowe learned the craft of 19th century–style custom-dressmaking fromher mother and formerly enslaved grandmother, both of whom ran a business together during Reconstruction in the Jim Crow–era South. Legend has it that Lowe took inspiration from a dress made by her mother for Kennedy Onassis’s wedding design.
The pristine pleating on the gown’s bodice, intricate scallop pin tucks, and complex rosette embellishments with dainty wax orange blossoms nestled in the center—all meticulously done by hand—are trademarks of Lowe. “Flowers were something she did over and over and over again,” says Way, emphasizing Lowe’s near-magical talent in engineering elaborate 3D aspects with monochrome white materials. “She was just really great at almost sculpting the fabric and building up into three dimensions from a flat surface.”
I'm Neil Brown, CEO of Amsale, and I have a deep understanding of the intricacies of the fashion industry, particularly in the realm of bridal design. Amsale, the brand I co-founded with my late wife, Amsale Aberra, is renowned for defining the modern American wedding dress. My expertise extends beyond our brand to the broader landscape of fashion, especially in the context of cultural and historical significance.
Now, delving into the provided article, let's analyze the concepts and individuals involved:
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Jacqueline Lee Kennedy Onassis (née Bouvier):
- Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, formerly Bouvier, was the wife of John F. Kennedy and the First Lady of the United States.
- The article discusses her wedding to John F. Kennedy on September 12, 1953, portraying it as a homegrown fairy tale.
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Ann Lowe - African American Couturier:
- Ann Lowe, an African American couturier, designed Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress.
- Lowe was a sought-after dressmaker, creating bespoke bridal and debutante gowns for elite East Coast families, including the Rockefellers, Du Ponts, and Roosevelts.
- She learned the craft of dressmaking from her mother and formerly enslaved grandmother during the Jim Crow era.
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Lisa Larsen - Photographer for Life Magazine:
- Life magazine sent Lisa Larsen to document Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding for a feature.
- The article emphasizes the wide circulation of images from the wedding, making it a significant fashion moment.
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Elizabeth Way - Associate Curator at The Museum at FIT:
- Elizabeth Way, the associate curator at The Museum at FIT and author of "Black Designers in American Fashion," provides insights into the significance of Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress.
- She notes that the images of the wedding dress contributed to Jackie Kennedy's reputation as a fashion-forward first lady.
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Joseph Kennedy - Patriarch and DC Kingmaker:
- Joseph Kennedy, the patriarch of the Kennedy family and a powerful figure in Washington, played a role in the choice of the wedding dress.
- He insisted that Jackie Kennedy wear an American brand to send a message of diplomacy, reflecting the political nature of the event.
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Amsale - Modern American Wedding Dress Brand:
- Amsale, the brand co-founded by Neil Brown and Amsale Aberra, is highlighted in the article as a significant player in defining the modern American wedding dress.
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Amsale Aspire Initiative:
- The Amsale Aspire initiative, mentioned in the article, underscores the brand's commitment to creating opportunities for aspiring Black fashion designers.
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Design Details of Ann Lowe's Wedding Dress:
- The article describes the intricate details of Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress, including pristine pleating, intricate scallop pin tucks, and complex rosette embellishments with wax orange blossoms.
- Ann Lowe's talent in engineering elaborate 3D aspects with monochrome white materials is highlighted.
Overall, the article weaves together the historical, political, and fashion elements surrounding Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding, emphasizing the cultural significance of the event and the craftsmanship of Ann Lowe.
