THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING (2024)

No Proustian madeleine for me. It's pudding that makes me quiver. Just a spoonful is enough to reawaken a childhood punctuated by the perfume of vanilla pudding perking in a pot, the feel of flabby pudding skin flopped across my lip, the comfort in every dollop that shimmied down my throat.

Pudding eating tends to fade with age, its innocent charms eclipsed by the pots de creme, creme caramels and chocolate mousses of later years. Yet the joy of pudding does not need to be reserved for children.

Puddings take so many forms and can be made of such a wide variety of ingredients that it is even difficult to say exactly what a pudding is. Just consider the differences among, say, a vanilla egg custard, a rice pudding and a plum pudding -- different ingredients, to be sure, but also different textures and completely different consistencies. Baked in a ramekin or nestled in a crock, silken smooth or nubbly with rice, tapioca and raisins, puddings form such a diverse group that it's hard to imagine they could share a common culinary root.

But they do. Regardless of texture or flavor, all puddings contain a dairy product, a sweetener, egg and/or starch. Any dairy product can be used, from skim milk to cream cheese, and the sweetener is completely dependent on personal taste. But the eggs and starch, which serve to thicken the pudding, are almost always added in direct proportion to each other.

At the starchless end of the spectrum is a custard loaded with eggs and not a speck of starch. At the other end are boxed puddings containing cornstarch and a small amount of egg, there more for flavor and color than to thicken. In between are countless variations thickened with tapioca, pasta, bread, rice, cake, bulgur, beans, wild rice, fruit or vegetables.

But puddings are not distinguished just by their ingredients. The proof of many puddings is in how they're cooked. The most popular puddings in this country are simmered in a saucepan on top of the stove. The prototype for stove-top puddings is a variation on what the French call creme patissiere, or pastry cream. Sweetened milk is cooked with starch and eggs until it becomes thick and creamy, after which it is flavored and chilled.

Other puddings take their time in the warmth of an oven. These frequently are thickened with prepared starches, such as rice, bread or pasta, and are mostly eaten warm.

A third method, which is much older than the others, is to steam puddings in a covered pot of water. These puddings, such as plum or figgy pudding, cook for several hours and then usually cure for weeks before they are served. Perhaps needless to add, their lengthy labor-intensive preparation has caused their popularity to wane.

But regardless of how a pudding is cooked, it is always handled with care. For in the life of a pudding there is just one split second between velvety thickness and a pot full of curds. Curdling occurs when the eggs in a pudding are overcooked. For that reason, stove-top puddings are usually thickened with starch and then enriched with eggs. Since the starch thickens first, the pudding will already be fully cooked and thickened before the eggs would have gotten hot enough to curdle.

When baking a pudding, on the other hand, the eggs are added at the beginning. In these baked recipes, curdling is avoided with a moderate oven and by using a water bath. Since water can get no hotter than 212 degrees without dissipating into steam, a pudding set in a pan of water will not curdle because the water around it never gets hot enough to damage the eggs. All this assumes, of course, that you replace whatever water has boiled away.

Puddings are one of the most convenient of homemade desserts. Their ingredients are readily available in most kitchens, and even the most complex pudding takes no more than 30 minutes of a cook's attention. Try one. You'll never again be content with what comes out of a box. BEST-EVER CHOCOLATE PUDDING (4 servings)

2 1/4 cups milk

1/2 cup sugar

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped

2 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons cocoa

2 eggs

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup whipped (heavy) cream (optional)

In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, heat 2 cups of the milk to a simmer. Remove from heat and mix in half the sugar and both the chocolates. Stir until smooth.

Meanwhile mix the remaining sugar with the salt, cornstarch and cocoa in a small mixing bowl. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of milk and stir to dissolve the cornstarch. Mix in the eggs.

When the milk-chocolate mixture is ready, pour half of it slowly into the cornstarch mixture and stir until smooth. Return the mixture to the saucepan and continue to cook over moderate heat, constantly stirring and scraping the sides and bottom of the pan until the mixture comes to a gentle boil. If lumps should form along the bottom of the pot, don't panic. Remove the pan from the heat and beat with a whisk for a few seconds until the pudding smooths and thickens. Then return to the heat and reheat to a full simmer. Simmer gently for 2 minutes as you continue to scrape the sides and bottom of the pan.

Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla. While the pudding is still warm, pour into four dessert dishes or wineglasses. Cover with plastic wrap and chill.

If desired, serve garnished with a dollop of whipped cream on top.

Per serving: 431 calories, 11 gm protein, 50 gm carbohydrates, 25 gm fat, 141 mg cholesterol, 13 gm saturated fat, 157 mg sodium LIME MERINGUE PUDDING (4 servings)

3 eggs, separated, plus 2 additional egg yolks

1 1/3 cups sugar

2 pinches salt

Finely grated zest and juice of 4 limes

1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Pinch of cream of tartar

With an electric mixer, food processor or a whisk, beat all 5 egg yolks with half the sugar until thick. Add 1 pinch of salt and the lime juice and zest. Mix in the melted butter.

Turn into a heavy saucepan and cook over moderate heat until lightly thickened, about the thickness of a hollandaise sauce. This will take about 3 minutes. Cool completely.

For the meringue, beat the egg whites with 1 pinch each of salt and cream of tartar until the whites just begin to hold a shape. Add the remaining sugar in a slow steady stream and continue beating until the sugar is dissolved and the meringue is very thick and glossy.

Fold the meringue into the cooled lime mixture in three additions.

Spoon into chilled glasses and chill thoroughly before serving.

Per serving: 554 calories, 6 gm protein, 70 gm carbohydrates, 29 gm fat, 329 mg cholesterol, 16 gm saturated fat, 108 mg sodium

* Uncooked egg yolks may be contaminated with salmonella and should be avoided by young children, the elderly and anyone with immune system deficiencies. SWEET BLACK PEPPER NOODLE PUDDING (12 servings)

1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter

1 pound medium-width egg noodles, cooked

1 pound cottage cheese

1 pound farmer's cheese*

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons black pepper

5 eggs

2 cups sour cream

1 cup milk

1 cup golden raisins

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put the butter in a large baking pan and place in the oven.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the noodles, both cheeses, the sugar, pepper, eggs, sour cream, milk, raisins, vanilla and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Pour into the prepared pan, sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon and bake for 45 to 60 minutes, until the pudding is firm to the touch and lightly browned on top.

* Farmer's cheese, available in most grocers' dairy cases, has a consistency between cottage cheese and feta cheese. (Axelrod's is available in the Washington area.)

Per serving: 582 calories, 25 gm protein, 60 gm carbohydrates, 28 gm fat, 193 mg cholesterol, 9 gm saturated fat, 393 mg sodium CRANBERRY-ORANGE RICE PUDDING (12 servings)

2 cups cooked rice

3/4 cup dried cranberries

4 cups milk (any type)

3/4 cup sugar

4 egg yolks

2 tablespoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

Finely grated zest of 1 orange

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 tablespoon brandy

In a large saucepan, combine the rice, cranberries, milk and about half the sugar. Place over medium heat and cook until the milk just begins to bubble at the edge of the pot.

Meanwhile, in a medium mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks, remaining sugar, cornstarch, flour and salt together until smooth.

When the milk mixture is hot, pour about 2 cups of it into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Pour and scrape this mixture back into the saucepan, return to the heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the pudding becomes thick. Remove from the heat and whisk vigorously. Return to the heat and continue cooking until the pudding boils, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Make sure you stir around the circumference of the pan to reach all of the mixture. Boil the pudding for 1 minute.

Transfer the pudding to a serving bowl and mix in the orange zest, vanilla and brandy. Cover and refrigerate to desired temperature. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

Per serving: 201 calories, 5 gm protein, 35 gm carbohydrates, 5 gm fat, 82 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 70 mg sodium APPLE BOURBON CORN BREAD PUDDING (8 to 10 servings)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound corn bread or corn toaster cakes, cut in 1-inch cubes

3 cups milk

3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cubed

3 eggs

3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup light cream

1/4 cup bourbon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease the bottom of a glass or ceramic 9 1/2-by-13 1/2-by-2-inch baking dish with 2 teaspoons of the butter. Scatter the corn bread in an even layer. Pour 1 1/2 cups of the milk over top and set aside for 20 minutes.

Scatter the apples over the bread.

In a separate bowl, combine the eggs, sugar, salt, remaining milk, cream, bourbon and vanilla until smooth. Pour over the bread and apples and mix to coat and submerge all the bread. Scatter the remaining butter in pieces over the top.

Bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour, until top is brown and custard is set. Allow the pudding to cool for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Per serving: 423 calories, 10 gm protein, 58 gm carbohydrates, 15 gm fat, 134 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 529 mg sodium CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO PUDDING CAKE (8 servings) 1 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons instant espresso coffee powder

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup cocoa

1/2 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup coffee liqueur

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift the flour into a bowl with the baking powder, baking soda, salt, espresso powder, 3/4 cup of the sugar and half the cocoa. Add the milk, vanilla and oil, and mix into a thick batter.

Lightly spray with oil a 9-inch baking pan and then add the batter, spreading evenly.

In a small bowl, combine the brown sugar with the remaining sugar and remaining cocoa. Sprinkle evenly over the batter.

Combine the liqueur with 3/4 cup boiling water and pour over the top. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes. When done, the cake will have set around the sides and the top will be very loose and bubbly. Cool in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes or more. Slice or scoop to serve.

Per serving: 321 calories, 3 gm protein, 59 gm carbohydrates, 8 gm fat, 2 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 168 mg sodium Andrew Schloss is the co-author, with Ken Bookman, of "Dinner's Ready" and "One-Pot Cakes" (both William Morrow, 1995).