Ruffles & bows, opulence & tulle:
Our favourite fashion designers hav brought Romanticism back to the centre of attention.
While more generally associated with literature and visual art, Romanticism is one strong element of style used for centuries in the aim of expressing the emotions of its wearers through the abundance of embellishment and volume. It’s a noticeable wardrobe for those who want to be noticed.
From the end of the 18th Century to mid 19th, Romanticism was popularised by authors such as Baudelaire or Goethe with one point in aim: the glorification of things. The “things” they glorified were hardly ever physical but mostly abstract concepts such as ideals, hope, fear, heroism, despair and other numerous sensations reserved for human nature. A celebration of thorny and poisonous feelings, punk before the punks.
If the cultural influence of the Romantics is highly recognised at the end of the 18th century, we as well can note the deconstruction of an anti-fashion construct under its influence, making a change on the common appearance. Romantic men are said to take a lot more care of their allure than the rest of the population, becoming the main inspiration of the dandy movement which took place shortly afterward. Indeed, more than the actual clothing, the romantics also question the expression of men’s feelings, back then taboo. Romanticism in fashion was principally a drastic change in the women’s wardrobe as well, who found themselves reinterpreting anachronistical garments such as gigantic dresses with petticoats and leg-of-mutton sleeves from the 17th century. This period is commonly considered as the climax of gendered fashion in Western culture. Indeed, the women’s body is restricted under layers of petticoats and tight corsetries, this structure of clothing reinforces men’s role over women by controlling women’s bodies. This phenomenon led to “women’s exclusion from male occupations and their economic dependence on husbands and male relatives.”
It is interesting to see how the codifications of romantic womenswear from the 18th century are now reused in the making of contemporary fashion, even for menswear, tinged with Romanticism: volume, fluidity, lightness and transparency. This terminology, most often reserved for female clothing, is now easily associated within the wardrobe of a man living in his time. Especially now.
This cultural phenomenon is entitled Neo-Romantiscm and plays with every aspect of the modern life, and its wardrobe. The Label Botter at Nina Ricci, Guillaume Henry at Patou or Molly Godard are primes example of contemporary designers reappropriating this symbolic mentality and infusing their creations with its essence. Not only the aesthetic aspect of these airy and soft pieces is undoubtedly pleasing for the eye. Neo-Romanticism is a beautiful play on the fate of the silhouette that used to restrain women historically, re-employed to empower them, and now becoming non-gendered.
Look 1: Simone Rocha, Spring 2021
Look 2: Patou, Fall 2021
Look 3: Palomo Spain, Fall 2021
Look 4: Lanvin, Fall 2021
Look 5: Nina Ricci, Fall 2019
Texte by Marien Brandon
I possess extensive knowledge in the realms of literature, art history, cultural movements, and fashion history, which enables me to delve deeply into the topic at hand. My understanding extends from the intricacies of Romanticism as expressed by authors like Baudelaire and Goethe to its influence on fashion throughout history. I have studied various fashion movements, their origins, cultural contexts, and implications, making me well-equipped to discuss the relationship between Romanticism and contemporary fashion trends like Neo-Romanticism.
Concepts and Topics Explored in the Article:
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Romanticism in Literature and Visual Arts:
- Originating in the late 18th to mid-19th centuries, Romanticism primarily emphasized emotional expression and individualism.
- Authors like Baudelaire and Goethe are noted for popularizing Romantic ideals, focusing on abstract concepts such as hope, fear, heroism, and despair.
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Romanticism in Fashion:
- The article underscores how Romanticism transitioned from literature to fashion, with the aim of expressing emotions through embellishment and volume.
- During the Romantic period, both men and women underwent significant changes in fashion, reflecting the Romantic ideals of emotion and individual expression.
- Romanticism impacted women's fashion by reintroducing anachronistic garments such as large dresses and restrictive corsetry, symbolizing gender roles and societal structures.
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Cultural and Social Implications:
- The Romantic period marked a shift in societal norms, especially concerning gendered fashion. Women were often restricted by their attire, reinforcing male dominance and control.
- The dandy movement emerged, inspired by Romantic men who paid considerable attention to their appearance, challenging conventional norms regarding men's fashion and emotional expression.
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Neo-Romanticism in Contemporary Fashion:
- Modern designers like Label Botter at Nina Ricci, Guillaume Henry at Patou, and Molly Godard are revisiting Romantic ideals in their creations, manifesting in voluminous, fluid, and transparent designs.
- Neo-Romanticism transcends gender boundaries, empowering individuals by reinterpreting historical fashion elements in a contemporary context.
- The article highlights specific looks from designers like Simone Rocha, Patou, Palomo Spain, Lanvin, and Nina Ricci, showcasing how they incorporate Neo-Romantic aesthetics in their collections.
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Empowerment Through Fashion:
- Neo-Romanticism serves as a transformative force in fashion, liberating individuals from historical constraints while celebrating the aesthetic and symbolic elements associated with Romanticism.
- By reappropriating Romantic motifs and styles, contemporary designers contribute to a non-gendered fashion landscape, emphasizing inclusivity, fluidity, and individual expression.
In summary, the article delves into the intricate relationship between Romanticism and fashion, tracing its historical roots and exploring its contemporary manifestations. It emphasizes how Romantic ideals continue to influence designers, inspiring them to create collections that celebrate emotion, individualism, and aesthetic beauty, thereby contributing to a more inclusive and diverse fashion landscape.
