“Which way do they stretch? Are they even going to stretch? I know I’m a size 11.”
The pressure is on when you try on a new pair of shoes in the store and things can get even more confusing with boots: you have to consider heel slip, and many guys are taught to ignore initial discomfort in case the shoes just need to be worn in.
If you’re buying them online, things can be even tougher. Nobody wants to go to the post office — sometimes more than once — to return boots only to receive a less comfortable fit ten days later.
Table of Contents
The Health Consequences of the Wrong Boot Size
“One of the things about wearing any shoe that’s too small is that it can compress the front of the foot and you can wind up with structural problems like bunions and hammer toes,” says Dr. Neal Blitz, DPM, FACFAS, a foot surgeon based in New York and Los Angeles who is board certified in both foot surgery and reconstructive rear foot and ankle surgery. “If you wear a shoe that’s too big, your foot won’t bend at the shoe’s break point where it’s meant to and the arch support can be in the wrong place. That can cause inflammation, flat feet, and plantar fasciitis.”
While Blitz has made a comfortable living from bunion surgery, no one wants you to suffer in uncomfortable boots. These are are the five most important things to keep in mind when trying on a pair of boots.
[Related: My list of The Best Boots for Men]
The Thursday Vanguard boot.
1. The Flex Point
Ensure your foot breaks at the widest part of the boot
This is arguably the most important component of fit — not the width, not the heel, but where the boot breaks on your foot. No need to overcomplicate this one: every boot has a natural break point where it wants to bend, be it at the end of a stitched toe box or simply where your toes start, but that’s what you need to remember. The boot must flex where your foot does, and that’s at the toe line.
It may sound simple, but if a boot breaks in the wrong spot it will rub against your foot, your foot will slide back and forth when you walk, the vamp will crease and twist, and the toe box can pinch down on the toes.
You might be able to check the flex point by checking the shoe width. The widest part of the shoe should line up with the widest part of your foot, meaning the ball.
The sole of the Alden Indy 403.
2. The Heel
A little heel slip is not a big deal and should remedy as the boot breaks in
Product like Heel Snugs can help persistent heel slip
The next most critical part of the fit is the heel, and it might be the most controversial.
Is it OK to have some heel slip?
A lot of brands won’t slip if you’re wearing the right size but if everything else is fine, a little heel slip — like a quarter of an inch — is acceptable when you’re trying on well-made boots. In fact, some people find that boots with zero slip on the first wear can be too stiff on the foot, particularly if they have very stiff soles. So don’t worry if there’s a little slippage.
As the boot molds to your foot, the slip should decrease and will probably vanish altogether as the heel counter molds to your foot’s shape from friction and body heat. Unlined boots in particular have a nappy interior that’s extra great for catching the heel after a few wears.
for In any case, what’s more important than slippage is that the boot moves with your foot and you don’t feel like your foot is moving around the inside of the shoe.
If the slippage doesn’t fix itself in a few months and it’s bothering you, there are plenty of cheap products, like Heel Snugs, that can easily remedy the issue.
Buy a boot that cradles the ball of your foot — not pinches
This is where people get sloppy. A lot of guys say that if the width is uncomfortably tight, it’ll eventually stretch. This isn’t a great strategy.
“Some brands will be geared toward a wider foot and some toward a narrower foot, and that’s more of an issue than the length,” says Blitz. “If there’s too much compression at the ball of the foot, that can cause discomfort and inflammation.”
It’s crucial to remember that the length of your foot won’t change throughout the day, but the width will. Your foot is more swollen toward the end of the day, and that’s when you should be trying on shoes and measuring the width in a store or with a Brannock device. (Bring thick socks as well, since most boots are designed to be worn with them.)
One more important point: a lot of folks say that you should never under any circ*mstances buy a boot with the expectation that they’ll stretch. This is a decent rule to follow, but note that most boots will stretch — but only about a millimeter.
[Related: My list of The Best Boots for Wide Feet]
4. The Arch
Find out how much arch support your foot type needs and how much is offered by the brand
Arches are tricky. Many boots don’t have much in the way of arch support. Does it really matter?
“I think you need to know your foot. Do you have a flat foot or a high arch foot? That determines what you’ll be comfortable in,” says Blitz. “If you have a flat foot, you probably need a boot with some arch support. On the other hand, if you have a foot with a well-maintained arch, it probably doesn’t matter as much.”
He suggests a simple way to test this: step on a brown paper bag with wet feet. If the footprint left behind is flat from heel to toes, you’ve got flat feet. If there’s an arch and the inner sole doesn’t leave a mark, you’ve got yourself a good arch. It’s not the end of the world if your feet are flat and your favorite boot doesn’t have support — there are some ultra thin orthotic soles you might be interested in.
When sizing the foot on a Brannock, many people focus more on what their arch length suggests their shoe size is rather than what is suggested by the actual length of the foot. Your arch determines the widest part of the foot and how your foot will be supported in the boot itself, so if your heel and width fit fine in more than one size, and one size fits your arch better — this is an unlikely scenario, but it happens — you might want to pick the boot with your arch size.
[Related: The Best Insoles for Boots]
5. The Toe Box
This is largely irrelevant if the rest of the boot fits well
“One challenge you have with boots is that normally, you base the fit of a shoe shoe on using your thumb to see where the tip of the big toe meets the end of the boot,” says Blitz. “But with boots, the toe boxes are generally a lot stiffer so it’s harder to gauge.”
The first thing (and often the only thing) people do when trying on sneakers is to ask how much room should be in the toe of a shoe. Ironically, it’s probably the least important thing about a boot’s fit: if the previous four sections in this article are on point for you, the length is basically irrelevant because your foot will be moving well with the boot.
Never size down to reduce toe room. Everything above is infinitely more important. A small toe box can rub your feet and cause calluses, and there’s no downside to a larger one if your heel, flex point, and width feel right. The toe box might be important for style, but it’s not a huge component of fit unless it’s way too tight.
Wrapping Up
These are the five most important components of landing on your size, in descending importance. Largely, it’s all about the flex point, heel, and width. Remember that sometimes, even if your heart is set on a brand, your foot just won’t fit. This is a particularly important point for our wide-footed brethren. That a brand just isn’t for you can be a tough pill to swallow, but remember to do right by your feet. Don’t wear boots that take from you.
FAQs How Boots Should Fit
How do I know if my boots fit properly?
There are five areas to check. They are: the flex point, the heel, the width, the arch, and the toe box. Your boots should not feel tight. They should feel snug on the forefoot, they should have plenty of room in the toe box, and the heel should not slip more than a quarter of an inch.
How much room should be in a boot?
There should not be too much room or movement in your boot. It should feel snug around the forefoot. You do not want it to feel too tight. You do not want your foot to slide forward. Your heel should not move more than ¼ of an inch.
Is it better for a boot to be tight or loose?
Too tight and too loose are both indicative of a bad fit. Leather boots will stretch slightly if your boot is slightly tight. If your boots are too loose you can wear thick socks, buy insoles, or both.
How tight should boots fit at first?
Your boot should feel snug around the forefoot. You should not feel any discomfort or pain.
How to tell if boots are big?
Your boots are too big if you’re foot moves forward in the boot and hit the front when walking downhill. Your boots are too big if you have a lot of extra laces after you time them. Your boots might be too big if your heel moves more than ¼ of an inch.
How much room should be in the toe of a boot?
There is a lot of leeway with how much room you can have in the toe of your boot. You are fine as long as the flex point of your foot matches the flex point of the boot and your toes do not press against the boot.
Should boots fit tight or loose?
Slightly too tight when wearing your thickest socks is fine, your boot will stretch but only a little bit. Slightly loose with your thinnest socks is ok as long as you don’t feel any hotspots when you walk.
How should boots fit around the calf?
You want your boots to fit snuggly around the calf, more importantly, you want to make sure you can easily get them on and off.
How should boots fit around the ankle?
Boots can be loose or snug around the ankle depending on how tall they are and how tightly you lace them. You do not want them to be uncomfortably tight. If they are new the leather will soften over time.
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Nick English
By day: Manhattan-based journalist with reporting experience on four continents, published in Vice, Men's Health, Popular Science, and a bunch of other places.By night: ravenous consumer of anything and everything related to high end men's boots.Stridewise is where I nurture a maniacal obsession with footwear and share my findings. Say hey: [emailprotected]
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Your boots should not feel tight.They should feel snug on the forefoot, they should have plenty of room in the toe box, and the heel should not slip more than a quarter of an inch.
Boots should not be too loose or too tight on your foot. The best fit should be snug (but not tight) around the whole of your foot, with enough room to move your toes and a maximum of a quarter to a half-inch of slippage at the heel.
You should be able to wiggle your toes inside the toe box (the front of the shoe). To see if you have enough room, slide your foot forward so your toes are just touching the end of the unlaced boot. In this position, you should have a finger's width (about ½") between the base of your heel and the boot.
The easiest way to tell if a shoe is too big or too small is to take a look at how much room there is in the toe of the shoe. Generally speaking, there should be about one finger's width of space between your longest toe and the end of the shoe.
If your toes feel jammed with a finger behind your ankle, they're most likely too tight. Another way to test it is to put your boots on, stand up straight, and then wiggle your toes. If you can't wiggle your toes, the boot is too tight. We also recommend walking around in them for a minute or two.
Boots should be the half a size bigger than your shoe size for summer use and should be the same size for winter use. If your feet are wider than average, you will need a larger size to provide more space. Your toes should be from 1 inch to 0.5 inches from the toe cap of the boot.
Your boots should not feel tight. They should feel snug on the forefoot, they should have plenty of room in the toe box, and the heel should not slip more than a quarter of an inch.
Is it better to have boots too big or too small? It's better to have boots that are too big, as long as insoles and heel shields can still improve the fit. If they're too big even for that, then they're equally as damaging to your feet as boots that are too small, which can cause bunions and hammertoe.
Most boots are roomy enough to wear with socks, but if you are in-between sizes and your boot is tight when tried on with socks, you might have to size up a half size. It's better to have slightly too large boots than slightly too small boots.
Other painful effects of wearing shoes that are too big include: Corns and calluses: caused by excessive pressure on the toes. Metatarsalgia: caused by too much pressure on the balls of your feet. Disrupted natural stride: resulting in Achilles tendonitis, arch pain, and pain in the calf muscles.
– How to Stretch and Soften Leather Boots. Leather is a durable, flexible, and beautiful natural material that softens and stretches with regular use. The process of breaking in is gradual and can help mold the leather boot to your natural foot shape for better comfort and traction.
Shoes that are too big will not provide the necessary support for your feet and ankles.This can lead to foot fatigue and other foot problems. This is especially important for folks with flat feet or a history of foot pain; as noted above, good boots are often “prescribed” by podiatrists to remedy problems like this.
A popular solution is to add an extra pair of cushion insoles. There are two basic insoles, insoles with arch cushion and flat insoles without any arch cushion. Flat insoles will tighten the boot evenly. Insoles with arch cushions will make the instep area more snug and can then take slipping out of the heel.
It should not pinch across the ball of the foot or the toes, but should be comfortably snug in the instep area of your foot. Just like a good handshake. A new boot may slip some when new, but if it is snug in the instep, that slip will come out, after it is flexed from wearing.
Boots shrink because the leather uppers contract, but boots shrink only so much. What is this? If you have a new pair of boots that are slightly too big, think about trying an insert or socks first.
One of the best ways to tell if you need a wider fit is to divide your heel-to-toe length measurement by your foot's width measurement. Standard shoe width sizes for both women (“B” width) and men (“D” width) are at a length-to-width ratio of about 2.65 to 1.
The average heel height is around 3 inches, or 7.5cm. This falls into the mid-height range, which usually measures in at 2-3 inches, or 5-7.5cm. This is the most classic heel height, and mid-height heels should be comfortable enough to wear all day.
When your foot bends to take a step in a new shoe, your heels should slip slightly. 1/8” movement is normal but can feel like much more. Loose slipping in the heels will not cause blisters when broken in gradually, but wearing shoes that are too small and tight will cause friction and then blister.
The first and most common reason heel slip can occur is that your shoes don't fit your foot properly. This could mean that your shoes are a bit too large in regard to length so the additional toe box room causes your foot to slide forward and your heel to pop out.
Although often intended to help with posture problems and other discomfort, insoles are also useful to make shoes smaller by taking up extra space in footwear that's a tad on the big side. Full insoles are a fantastic solution if your shoes are too big across the length of your foot.
Start to fasten the straps closest to your toes then move up your leg. Tighten the straps so they are snug but not too tight. The boot should limit movement but not cut off your blood flow. If your boot has one or more air chambers, pump them up as directed by your healthcare provider.
There needs to be enough room in your boot as your feet are likely to swell on long walks. If there is too much room to move your finger, a smaller size is needed. If there is too much room the boot will remain loose no matter how tight you tie your laces.
Different styles of ankle boot will have a slightly different fit, but generally, your boots should fit nice and snug around your ankles without feeling too tight or too loose. One way to tell if your boots fit properly is to pop a finger between the back of your ankle and your boot.
A half size in shoes is only 1/8 of an inch in added length. Shoes size can vary for many reasons, from sports injuries to weight gain and age. It's not uncommon to go up a half size if your feet or arch height begins to become more flat overtime.
A half-size represents a 1/8” difference. It may not seem significant but is enough to distinguish between comfort and discomfort. Because there is no standardisation for shoe sizing, a half size difference will also depend on the brand of shoe. With some makes, a half size will be more significant than others.
Do people's feet change as they get older? They don't change in size, necessarily. But feet may get wider, not longer, as we age. They change in their elasticity the same way other body parts do – tissue becomes less tight, causing the increased width and sagging of the arches.
Stand up and make sure there is 3/8" or 1/2" (about the width of your finger) between your longest toe (usually the second toe) and the end of the shoe. Always stand and walk around in the shoes to see if they are comfortable, fit well, and don't chafe or rub anywhere. Your heel should not slip or slide while walking.
How long do boots take to break in? Boots can take between one and four weeks to break in. It depends on how often you wear them, though the general rule is 80-100 hours.
High quality leather boots are made with very thick leather, so they will take time to break in. Normal break in time on these types of boots is an estimated 80-120 hours of active wear. That is about 2-3 weeks of full time active wear before these are fully broken in.
A good boot or shoe will expand naturally over time, but there are certain things you can do to expedite the process, without feeling discomfort while wearing them. You can use the above-mentioned ways of softening the leather, but other than that, you don't have to shop for anything else.
New boots can take around 80 to 100 hours to break in. That being said, don't subject yourself to wearing your boots for 4 days straight and expect your feet to be happy with you. Instead, space this time out to about 2 to 3 hours a day and keep a second pair of boots to change into.
It's normal for brand-new boots to feel snug, no matter what they're made of. Without any intervention, it can take several wears before your feet feel comfortable. The good news is that you can speed along the process if you know how to stretch leather boots.
You can shrink leather with vinegar just like with water. With vinegar, the shrinking will be a little faster but can cause a little damage to the leather overall finish. The process is the same as with water.
A wide width is 1/4” wider than a medium width and an extra wide width is 1/2” wider than a medium width. People with foot swelling or edema may benefit from additionally measuring their instep girth, which will help them choose the appropriate shoe width.
No it will not hurt you it will only be too wide for your feet, what will hurt your feet is a shoe that is too tight. I notice some women's feet puff out of their shoes. Why do still wear the tight shoe?
You should never size down the boot to reduce your toe room.
If the toe box has some extra space but everything else about the boot fits - keep it that way. A bigger toe box has no downsides. While a smaller one will compress your foot and cause all sorts of problems.
Calf. Since cowboy boots go all the way up to the calf, you need to make sure your new boots feel comfortable around this area. That said, the shaft shouldn't be too tight around your calves, but your ankles shouldn't have too much room either. Ideally, your boot will have a one to two-inch space around your calf.
Snow boots are designed to be a wider, roomier fit to make room for the thick fleece lining and any socks that you may choose to wear. The idea that you should leave room to accommodate socks is totally unfounded when it comes to snow boots. Don't be tempted to size up as too much movement of the boot can cause sores.
– How to Stretch and Soften Leather Boots. Leather is a durable, flexible, and beautiful natural material that softens and stretches with regular use. The process of breaking in is gradual and can help mold the leather boot to your natural foot shape for better comfort and traction.
If you don't remember the size, look inside the shaft of the boots or on the inside bottom. If this is your first pair of workboots, normally start with 1/2 a size down from your normal shoe size. If you are between sizes, order 1/2 size up.
D is the standard and most common size for men's boots. B is considered “narrow” for men. EE is considered wide and EEE is extra wide. The other letters represent in-between sizes with AAA being the narrowest.
Remember, your boots should never slip at the heel. Knee-high boots look their best when they fit snugly around your calf, embracing your shape without feeling tight. Too wide a gap could spoil the shape and the look of your boots. Too tight, they're likely to feel uncomfortable.
Calf boots look their best when fitted snugly around your calf – too much of a gap spoils the look of the boot. Making sure your calf boots fit well is also important for your foot health and comfort. If the boot fits too snugly, your calf will bulge against the side. If the boot is too slack, it will rub and chafe.
If the boot fit is too tight, your calf will press uncomfortably against the side. If the boot fit is too loose, it will rub and chafe. An ideal boot will fit like a glove around the calf – not too tight, not too loose.
A properly sized boot should be large enough to accommodate serious wool socks without pinching, and keep in mind that winter socks can be quite thick (much thicker than hiking socks). On the flip side, a fit that is too snug may inhibit circulation and can end up compromising the warmth the boot provides.
A popular solution is to add an extra pair of cushion insoles. There are two basic insoles, insoles with arch cushion and flat insoles without any arch cushion. Flat insoles will tighten the boot evenly. Insoles with arch cushions will make the instep area more snug and can then take slipping out of the heel.
Which Winter Boots Are Best For Walking On Ice? Hiking boots and snow boots are generally the best footwear for icy pavements and conditions. If you're looking for daily shoes to wear to work, there are a few ways to add extra grip to a regular pair of shoes.
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