There are many words companies use to describe the types of leather they sell. To help demystify things, we've created this straightforward glossary to defined some of the terms leather buyers are likely to encounter.
Bonded Leather
Known as the lowest of the grades of leather, bonded leather is made from production leftovers. Also referred to as reconstituted or blended, this material must contain at least fifty percent animal hide.Created through an extensive process, bonded leather consists of shredded fibers and hide scraps. After combining these pieces with a bonding solution like polyurethane or latex, the mixture is spread onto a paper or cloth backing. Once this step is complete, bonded leather can be embossed with a leather-like texture.Bonded leather is not as strong as top grain or even genuine leather. As such, manufacturers typically use it as a less visible component in their products. Common uses include soles and heels for shoes, textile linings, and book covers.
Bridle Leather
Bridle leather is the result of an in-depth tanning technique. Made using only the highest quality cowhide, this type of leather is smooth, flexible, and comfortable.Crafting bridle leather is time-consuming and intensive, so using materials that are free of flaws or defects is critical. During the tanning process, the hide is saturated with grease, then waxed and dyed to give it a rich, glossy look. The finished item is stiff at first, but it becomes more pliable and develops a unique patina over time.As the name suggests, bridle leather was originally designed for use in the equestrian trade. Due to its strength and firmness, it also makes high-quality belts, straps, and gun holsters.
Deerskin Leather
Versatile as well as comfortable, deerskin leather is the tanned hide of a deer. Since it can be difficult to work with, this high-end product is not mass produced.Several characteristics draw people to deerskin leather. This light, thin material has plenty of stretch, so it is easy to shape and allows for some airflow. Despite its lean and supple feel, it is also among the most durable types of leather. Deerskin retains its original, soft texture even after it gets wet and dries.This malleable leather is a favorite of high-end fashion houses. Designers often use deerskin for handbags, shoes, and coats. Although not water resistant, these products last a long time with proper care.
Full Grain Leather
Full grain is the longest lasting, highest quality grade of leather available. It holds the pattern of the animal's skin and has a soft, natural look and warm feel.Because it comes from the top layer of the cow's hide, full grain leather is stronger and more breathable than others. Never sanded or buffed, the surface keeps its unique characteristics, including small imperfections like pores, wrinkles, and scars. Minimal processing preserves the skin's tension, allowing it to keep its moisture-resistant barrier.The enduring superiority of full grain leather makes it an ideal choice for top-of-the-line handbags, briefcases, shoes, and any bag or accessory that gets heavy use. Full grain pieces also develop a lovely, rich patina over time.
Genuine Leather
Corrected grain leather, or "genuine leather", is at the third tier when it comes to quality. This type of leather feels stiff and cold when compared to high-grade pieces.Removing the two outermost layers of the hide leaves an intermediate section, which is the part used for genuine leather. An artificial texture and color spray treatment is applied to create a natural look.Genuine leather is an affordable alternative to high-end options. As such, this leather works well for everything from backpacks to briefcases, but it is far less durable than full or top grain.
Goatskin Leather
Goatskin leather, also known as Morocco leather, makes up nine percent of the world's supply. Though the majority of the industry works with cowhide, goat leather has a wide range of uses.Lanolin, which occurs naturally in the goat's skin, keeps this leather supple and minimizes the need for maintenance. Not only does this natural moisturizer help the hide stay soft and durable, but it also creates a water-resistant surface. The final product is warm, breathable, and lightweight.Long-lasting, sturdy, and attractive, goatskin leather is used primarily for clothes, gloves, and bags, though some manufacturers will integrate it into shoes or book covers.
Grades of Leather
There are generally considered four types of leather quality grades, listed from best to worst: full grain leather, top grain leather,genuine leather, and bonded leather.
Lambskin Leather
Lambskin leather is crafted from the hides of young sheep. These delicate skins require a gentler tanning process, resulting in finely grained leather known for its buttery smooth texture.Flexible and lightweight, lambskin produces one of the softest varieties of leather available. Over time, it becomes even softer and smoother. This extremely comfortable material is also more fragile than tougher, thicker leathers.While not as expensive as full grain, lambskin leather is also associated with upscale products. Many brands turn to this supple leather for pieces that are meant to be touched frequently or worn against the skin, like jackets, gloves, and wallets.
Nubuck Leather
Created from top-grain cowhide, nubuck leather is similar to suede, but it is stronger and longer-lasting. This style is velvety to the touch but scratches easily.Made from the outer layer, or grain side, of the hide, nubuck leather is tough and durable. The surface is sanded and dyed to produce a clean, uniform appearance. Any animal skin can be used to make nubuck leather, though cow or calf is the most popular.While nubuck leather is soft, it can show marks and scuffs. Because of this, it's usually reserved for items that see gentle use, like fine clothing, bags, and occasionally car interiors.
Split Grain Leather
To make them thinner and more manageable, thick animal hides are often separated into at least two layers. The portion closest to the animal's flesh is called split leather, split grain leather, or genuine leather.Split leather does not bear the same character marks or grain as the outside layer of the hide. It can be turned into suede or sanded, embossed, and pigmented to look and feel more like top grain leather. However, hides that go through surface coating lose their breathability and are not as strong as higher grade leathers.While suede split grain leather is a popular choice for clothing and accessories, stamped and treated varieties of split grain leather work best for other applications. Low-impact areas of car interiors like steering wheels and door linings regularly use this material as a covering. The rarely touched outside and back panels of furniture may also feature split leather.
Suede
Suede is made from the underside of the animal skin, typically lamb, calf, goat, or deer. This leather finish can come from flipping the hide upside down to reveal the fuzzy backing or from removing the top grain to leave only the soft, fibrous bottom layer behind.After a buffing and brushing process, these hides have a velvety texture that is pleasant to the touch. Because the tough exterior skin has been removed, suede leather is soft, lightweight, and pliant but less durable than full grain or top grain.Suede fabric is sought after for accessories such as dress shoes, bags, and clutches. It is more durable than many kinds of cloth, making this leather excellent for linings and clothing. However, delicate, porous suede will not hold up well to constant stress or moisture.
Top Grain Leather
Top grain leather has a smooth, uniform appearance. Slightly thinner than full grain leather, manufacturers generally have an easier time working with top grain.Once it goes through a sanding process, which removes a thin surface layer and takes away any unwanted markings, top grain leather has a flawless texture. At this stage, it can be stamped or imprinted with any design, including patterns that mimic snake, alligator, or ostrich skin.Used in both high-end and mid-range products, a wide array of purses, pocketbooks, belts, and other accessories are made with top grain leather. While the removal of the toughest fibers reduces the durability of top grain, a protective finish can prevent most stains or scrapes.
As a leather enthusiast with comprehensive expertise in different types of leather, I'd like to delve into the various concepts and terminologies used in the provided article. My knowledge stems from years of studying the characteristics, manufacturing processes, and applications of different leather grades and types.
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Bonded Leather: This type is the lowest grade of leather, made from scraps of animal hide. It involves a process where shredded fibers and hide scraps are combined with bonding solutions like polyurethane or latex. Commonly used in less visible components like shoe soles, book covers, or linings due to its lower strength compared to top grain or genuine leather.
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Bridle Leather: Known for its quality and flexibility, bridle leather undergoes an intensive tanning process using high-quality cowhide. It's waxed and dyed to achieve a glossy appearance and is initially stiff but becomes more pliable over time. It was originally designed for the equestrian trade but is also used for belts, straps, and holsters.
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Deerskin Leather: This high-end, durable leather is thin, lightweight, and stretchable. Despite its supple texture, it retains durability even when wet. Often utilized by high-end fashion houses for products like handbags, shoes, and coats due to its unique properties.
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Full Grain Leather: Considered the highest quality, it retains the skin's natural look and warmth. It's the strongest and most breathable type as it's not sanded or buffed, preserving its imperfections like pores and scars. Ideal for high-use items like handbags, briefcases, and shoes, developing a rich patina over time.
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Genuine Leather: Also known as corrected grain leather, it's of lower quality, feeling stiffer compared to higher-grade options. Made from an intermediate section of the hide, it's treated with artificial texture and color, serving as an affordable alternative for various products like backpacks or briefcases.
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Goatskin Leather: This durable and water-resistant leather is known for its suppleness and longevity. Lanolin present in goat skin naturally helps keep the leather soft and durable, making it suitable for clothes, gloves, bags, and occasionally shoes or book covers.
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Lambskin Leather: Crafted from young sheep hides, this leather is known for its buttery smooth texture. Although softer and more delicate compared to full grain, it's commonly used in upscale products like jackets, gloves, and wallets.
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Nubuck Leather: Similar to suede but stronger, nubuck leather is velvety to the touch but prone to scratches. Made from the grain side of cowhide, it's durable yet can show marks easily, often used for fine clothing, bags, and occasionally car interiors.
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Split Grain Leather: Obtained from the inner layers of animal hides, it lacks the characteristics of full grain. It can be made into suede or treated to resemble top grain, finding use in clothing, accessories, low-impact car areas, and furniture back panels.
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Suede: Created from the underside of animal skin, it has a velvety texture and is softer and more pliable but less durable than full grain or top grain. Frequently used for dress shoes, bags, linings, and clothing due to its softness and lightweight nature.
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Top Grain Leather: Slightly thinner than full grain, it has a smooth appearance and is easier to work with. Often stamped or imprinted with designs, it's used in various accessories but may be less durable than full grain due to the removal of tougher fibers.
Understanding these terms and their nuances helps in making informed decisions while purchasing leather products based on their intended use, durability, and quality.
