Home » Sewing Tips and Techniques » Tools » Using a Dress Form – Do You Even Need One?
It turns out dress forms might not be the fitting tool you’re hoping for
One of the questions I often get asked is which dress form I recommend, and truly, that’s a little bit of a loaded question (though most people who ask don’t realize it). So in today’s post I want to unpack it a little bit and tackle the question of whether you actually should invest in a dress form, and which is the best dress form to buy. And I’m going to be upfront – while this post does include affiliate links, it also includes my brutally honest opinion that a dress form might not help your fitting all that much.
This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All affiliate links are identified with (affiliate link) after the link or a commissions earned statement above the link(s).
When I got my first dress form, I was convinced that not having one was what was holding my sewing and fitting back. So I purchased this adjustable dress form (affiliate link, form shown above). And she’s an expensive hanger that is very good for pinning hems, but otherwise did not improve the way my sewn garments fit me in the least.
Yup, you read that right. Having a dress form did not help at all.
You might wonder why this didn’t help my fitting much – after all, that dress form is adjustable, so I should have been able to make it match me exactly, right? And I did get the bust, waist and hip measurements to be exactly the same number as mine.
But here’s the thing: the same circumference – let’s say a bust measurement – can be shaped more like an oval or more like a circle, and it will vary from individual to individual. Dress forms have a general shape, and that may or may not be the same as yours. For example, I am widerfrom the front or back but narrower from the side than my dress form.
An even bigger problem is that LENGTHWISE measurements are not adjustable on a dress form. So I quickly noticed that the bust point of my form was higher than my actual bust point, and the torso was longer than mine and I couldn’t shorten it to be the same.
Are you starting to see the issue?
When I started patterning girl’s dresses, I thought a girl’s dress form would be helpful, and I found this one on Craigslist for a steal. Know how often it gets used? Every day as a decoration.
Yup, another expensive hanger.
Why don’t I use that form much? The shoulders aren’t collapsible, so it’s actually pretty hard to dress (collapsible shoulders mean that you can press them in to pull something over the dress form’s neck – much like your shoulders slim in when you lift your arms) And the measurements are kind of weird and don’t exactly match the ones I use in my size chart – the chest, especially, seems large in proportion to the waist.
Good thing I didn’t pay much for her.
Finally, the dress form I use the most is this one (affiliate link). I bought this one specifically to do pattern draping on, NOT to try and fit myself. And in fact, if you look at this picture of the dress form wearing something that fits me perfectly, you can see why. My waist is higher and my bust point lower than hers, and my upper bust is not as wide while her waist is smaller than mine.
Why a Dress Form Won’t Improve Your Fitting
So this gets me to my main point – WHY dress forms aren’t going to help you much with fitting. The thing is, all patterns (mine included) are drafted from average measurements from groups of people. But those average measurements correspond to very few ACTUAL people.That’s how averages work – they give us a very good general idea, but not a good person specific idea.
And guess what? Dress forms (unless you’re getting a custom one) are based on the same average measurements as patterns.
So if you buy a dress form, you’re likely to be able to sew up a commercial sewing pattern and have it fit the dress form pretty perfectly and STILL not have it fit you – because your measurements are not the averageof a group of people, they’re specific to you. If you ever watch Project Runway you’ll probably notice the same thing – they drape clothing on similar dress forms just beautifully, but then still have to do model fittings to get their garments perfect.
Instead of buying a dress form to improve your fit, a better use of your time/money might be to buy yourself a bunch of muslin, draft a sloper to your own measurements and fit that muslin to yourself. And then use that sloper as the basis for adjusting any future pattern you decide to sew.
Now, there are some instances I do think a dress form is helpful, so I’ll list those. Buy a dress form if:
- You need help marking hems often, particularly on things like circle skirts.
- You sew for clients and need an approximation of their body to do a rough fit that will be refined when you have them try on the garment. If this is is the case, a dress form about the size of your smallest client is what I’d buy, and then pad the form out with bras, stuffing, and quilt batting to get to the measurements you need for larger clients.
- You need one for patternmaking and draping, fashion design school or photography to hold sample garments
- You sew off the rack clothing that is designed with a standard (not customized) fit
And if you do buy a dress form, look for one that has canvas or linen covering that is pinnable, and collapsible shoulders.
In a nutshell, dress forms are not especially useful in improving fit for yourself. They are mostly useful in cases where standard or average fit is desired. Custom fitting will still have to be performed for everyone who deviates from average or standard sizing.
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Reader Interactions
Comments
Carmella
Thanks for this post, Melly. It came just in time as I’m considering buying one today! You clarified a couple of points I was wondering of myself, such as waist length. I mostly sew for myself and trying a garment on a live model is best to evaluate all those other fitting points. So I’ll be getting the less expensive, decorative, non-adjustable one. It’s mainly going to be for displaying and photographing the accessories I make.
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I didn’t have money to spend on one and so I made a dress form exactly to my measurements using duct tape. (Yay Pinterest) My measurements are actually a pretty standard size S so I rarely have to make adjustments, but I use the dress form when I do pattern hacks. Reading this I’m glad I didn’t buy one. Since I only use it for me, I think I have the best one I’ll ever find.
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Danielle D.
Thank you! I have been thinking about this!
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Diane
Thank you for this post. I have been trying to decide which form would best help with fitting my “way-less-than-average” bust size e.g. “would a boys or girls form fit me better than a women’s form?” but now I know not to bother and will invest in muslin instead!
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Shawna
Thanks for the post today, I was debating on saving up for a dress form. I sew in my dining room as we don’t have a lot of space and I was unsure if adding a dress form to this already maxed out multipurpose room was even worth it. I think I need to invest in some wall hooks and nice hangers instead!
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mary
I’m so glad you wrote this article. I’ve pondering this purchase for a long time and now I think I can take it off my list since it won’t do what I want it to do (be a replica of me!).
Thanks!!Reply
M
I agree completely. I bought a used dress form on craigslist and have tried to use it, but even with my exact measurements, it is a different shape in so many ways. I agree that making a sloper would work better, but my ultimate solution has become to either buy clothes that fit me perfectly at a thrift shop or and take those and old good-fitting clothes apart to make patterns. But mostly, I buy great clothing at thrift stores and alter them for a perfect fit, if needed.
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Juliette
I completely agree with this. Often when I make something that fits me very well, sits awfully on my dress form. I have bought 3 – all very cheaply but they are really only good for hanging dresses for hemming later, taking photos and just putting the outfit on to have a look at how it looks “filled out”. Definitely not helpful for fitting purposes.
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agnes
Thanks for your insight on this post! I always wondered about the usefulness of dressforms. I have seen several garment sewists make their own custom dress forms using trash bag and duct tape!
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Lisa
Very informative! I’ve been pondering this as well. Thank you!
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Jess
OK, I am a brand spanking new seamstress (already so in love even though I’ve basically just been practicing straight stitches and following seams and having the courage to cut fabric… I did do some quilting years ago though, so I’m not completely lost!). I have been thinking I might want to get a dress form and here’s why:
I am not good spatially. I have trouble envisioning things without putting them the way they need to go. Right now I’m not worried about making things that fit me exactly, just practicing making things at all, and being able to pin and see on a dress form seems like it would be useful for me.
Reading your post actually makes me think I’m on the right track with my reasoning. I wouldn’t want/expect it to be my measurements.
Thoughts?
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Hello, Jess.
I’m no expert, so please take my words with great consideration, and consider doing some of your own research.
Since you’re just starting, I don’t think you’ll need a dress form yet. However, understanding that -like you said- you’re not good spatially, you can save for a dress form now. Hopefully a custom one, too.
There are also other options for dress forms! You don’t have to get a full sized dress form. At schools they have smaller scaled dress forms, and full-sized ones. Almost all great dress forms are going to be over $300 USD new(often more than at!). But, sometimes you can find a small scale or desktop dress form on eBay- Even a full sized form. Just look around and be diligent about it, I’m sure you’ll find something.
Other methods I’ve tried are the duct tape (Please understand that my method is not at all the same as the ones seen on Pinterest and such!!! Very similar, but not the same.) Saran wrap, and Sloper. These methods may help because they allow you to create a temporary body double, if done properly.But, for right now, develop your skills- as you are doing now. You may find in time as you develop more experience that you can put things together much easier than before.
I hope this helps. Blessings~!
A. W.Reply
pennyp
Here is a link to a video that shows a Uniquely You dress form. I got mine more than ten years ago, before having two kids. I’ve not used it for anything very fitted in a long time, but I still love it. I especially love it when I am doing alterations and I just need a third hand to hold a garment while I tear out a tiny seam or do some up close detailed hand work. I am not the person in the video, but she does a good job showing how it works. Hope this helps. Great info. I’ll have to check my form and see how close she is to the real me.
Happy Thanksgiving!Reply
Julie Davey
I didn’t expect my form to fit me right away. I knew she’d need a lot of work. First, Hubs gave her a “boob job” with jig saw to raise the bust points to match mine. Then I used a set of purchased pads and batting to make her match my lumps and bumps. I ended up with a form disturbingly like my own, very useful for pin fitting, draping, hemming, etc. And when my shape changes, so can hers! She absolutely must wear a robe when not in use!
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DaVerne
Thank you, Julie, for sharing this. I have an adjustable dress form that was given to me. I can make the neck, bust, waist and hips be the size that mine are. I can also move the mid section up or down for my bust to be in the right place on my torso. I am also able to add padding to the upper hip to match my “muffin tops” and any other place, for instance like adding to the cup size in the bust. I appreciate having the dress form to hold the top or dress on and it is helpful for hemming. My Little Assistant! ; ) So if you are considering purchasing a form, then go with one that is adjustable. Fabricland in Canada quite often has these on for 50% off. : )
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Gail
Thanks for this post. I found it very helpful in making my decision not to buy a dress form. And, I got a little chuckle from Julie’s comment. Thank all you ladies.
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Anna
I love my dress form, but much like Julie who posted above I customized mine. I found a form that was about a size to small at a garage sale and adjusted it to be able to wear a bra of mine then put a knit cover over it and added padding everywhere until she was shaped like me. Lumos and all!
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Anita
Thanks so much for this honest assessment! Just the conclusion I was coming to myself! Glad to have it verified as on target!
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Dakiara
I’ve got a dress form that finally just about fits me. She’ll be no use for exact measurements though, but will work for a rough draft of the dresses that I hope to refashion! Took me two hours though with one of my old bras, cotton batting and duct tape(and a tight Lycra over top) and I now dread losing any more weight! ?
I was surprised just how “off” the measurements were though. Took me an age to alter the bust area and it’s about three inches lower than the form itself.
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Beka
I wish I ahead read this before I bought my Dritz a couple years back! I might just be very lucky, but it has seemed to line up with my own measurements very well once adjusted. Unfortunately it does not have princess/side seams, which I would love to use for draping. Is there any way I can put some on it? I was thinking I might have to sew some sort of cover with bump seams to put over the dress form? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
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BJ
Instead of buying a dress form, I am on my way to but a binch of muslin! Thanks for saving me time, energy and most of all, money!
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Maya
Thank you for this. Like others here, I was thining of buying one, so you’ve saved me a bundle.
Instead, I’m trying to make one. I’m seeing how little money I can spend. Expenses so far:
Butterick sloper pattern, on sale: 1.99
old sheet someone gave me, to make the sloper: free
cotton salvaged from an old futon, to fill the sloper: freeI just need to find a stand.
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Karen
Have someone build one for you! All you really need is a “Stick” with a piece of wood at the top that will hold the “neck part” of the dress form. On the bottom you put 2 pieces of wood in an ‘X’ shape, attach the “pole” and neck rest to it with screws. The “pole” can be as small as a 1 inch dowel that is 4 or 5 feet long, or a 2 X 4 board that can be the
pole to which the floor stand and the neck piece are attached. It can be quite portable as you can take the stand apart and just take the “body form” part away separately. I don’t know if I have explained this very well, My cousin has one that works very well for her. She didn’t have a dedicated sewing room until her kids left home, however she now is able to keep her body double sitting in her sewing room. She has had to “pad” the form over the years as she has “spread” out a bit as most of us do :D’Reply
Lynette
Excellent article. Mine wouldn’t adjust to exactly my measurements, and i used a bra and panties and stuffed them and wrapped the waist to be my measurements. I have found out helpful. Collapsible shoulders would be amassing.
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Karen
I HAD the perfect dress form many years ago. It was likely from Sears or Eatons catalogue (I live in Canada). I had a collapsible stand that held what looked like a bunch of plastic covered metal “S’ shapes that were interconnected. You separated the front from the back, then stretched the Ss to be larger then your size. Then you put the form on your body and did up the side clips. Next, you pushed together and pulled apart the various Ss until it was your body double. Then it had a cushioned cover and a linen cover that provided a pinnacle surface. It allowed you to really get your shape in the form — you could mould in all the bumps and lumps. I have a long torso (and very short legs) so I was able to duplicate that long torso and actually get things to fit me. In all my moves over the years it got misplaced or lost. I do not recall the “make” of the form. I haven’t seen 1 like it since. I had to have someone do the back shaping for me but other then that I could do most of the work myself.
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SANDRA CUNNINGHAM
Best comment ever: “Know how often it gets used? Every day as a decoration.”
I’ve often thought of making my Joann fabric dress form a duct tape shell that was fitted to my body, but I think you NEED a sewing buddy to accomplish that–ESP cutting you out of it! LOL!Reply
Mea Cadwell
I will gently disagree with this article. I’ve only been sewing for about 7 years but I did the sloper bit…and it was a pain to try on the article of clothing I was sewing, trying to pin it in places, take it off withough drawing blood/ripping it/dropping pins everywhere…
I’m a size large/x-large woman and found a medium dress form on sale. Added batting until it was at my exact measurements in the right areas and held it in place with double-stretch knit. This took some time to get just right but, boy, was it worth it.
It is SO much easier to create tops and bodices now. I save energy and time and don’t have the frustration I used to have. Yes, it took some work to make the form be my body double but I can pin anywhere on the dress form and can change the measurements if I gain or lose weight.
I fully recommend getting a form that’s at least one ‘size’ smaller than you, if possible, to be able to pad it correctly.
P.S. My form’s name is Vicky – short for Victorian because she likes to wear the 1884 Victorian lobster tail bustle outfit I’m finishing up.
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Mea Cadwell
I should have mentioned that I lucked out on the torso height of the dress form I found. It is the same as my torso. Not everyone will be fortunate enough to have that happen.
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Mary Bartrop
I did the same thing! Mine is named Queen Mary.
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Tede
Good article. I sorted out the issue with the mismatch between the dress form and my measurements making a custom dress form, i used my basic bodice pattern with some transformations and it was a sucess (the second try 😁)
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Mary Bartrop
Hi Melly,
Once upon a time, my husband brought home a foam filled dress form with a cloth cover. It was nowhere near my size! I made a sloper, put it over the mannequin and proceeded to stuff it with a LOT of fiberfill. I smoothed the surface with layers of polyester quilt batting. It took a bit. When it was filled out I would compare the measurements to my recorded body measurements and adjust accordingly. It was a tedious process, but it worked! In my old home I kept her in the front hall and when she was not in use she held my coat. A friend dubbed her Queen Mary, and she has moved across country with me.Reply
Mea Cadwell
I purchased an inexpensive dress form a size smaller than I needed (I need a large and got a medium ) and wrapped the dress form with batting to make it closer to my size. I was very fortunate because the dress form torso was the same length as my torso.
Took an old bra, that fit me well, and put it on the dress form then stuffed the cups. I sewed a form fitting cover using 4-way stretch knit and put that over the top of everything. I had to add some stuffing here and there, and smoosh some of it around, to make it match my body’s measurements exactly.
Doing all this did take some time but it has made a huge world of difference and it upped my sewing game a lot. Sleeves stopped being sleevils and it was so much easier to make tops…and bottoms as well.
The next time I get a dress form I would like it to be a more expensive version but I won’t be without one ever again.
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kim
I am reading this in 2022 and I am so happy I read before I bought the dress form. I was actually saving money to buy one. thank you so much for this article
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