One of the best things you can do to look good after 40, or at any age for that matter, is to dress for your vertical body type. The first step in that process is to know and understand your body proportions.
In previous articles we discussed the different body shapes or horizontal body types. Another important factor in understanding your shape is your vertical body type.
Why is it important to determine your vertical body type?
Ever wondered why a certain outfit just doesn’t work? It’s likely because the proportions are all wrong. Not enough attention has been paid to silhouette and the golden ratio or the rule of thirds.
The golden ratio appears naturally in many parts of life, like in nature, on your face and in many structures. It’s used by artists, photographers and designers to create pleasing images and designs. One of the most famous examples is the Eiffel Tower which you can divide in 2 thirds and 1 third.
It works equally well for styling yourself. Just like in nature, using the golden ratio, or as I will call it The Rule of Thirds, creates a nice silhouette and a pleasing image.
However, to fully take advantage of this rule, you need to know the actual vertical proportions of your body.
What is your vertical body type?
Have a look at the image on the right. The body is divided into four sections:
- The top of the head to the nipple line (with bra on).
- The nipple line to the hipline (fullest part of the bottom).
- The hipline to the centre of the kneecap.
- The kneecap to the floor.
Almost everyone has different proportions and women can be placed in one of three main categories:
The balanced body
You have this vertical body type when:
- Your upper body length is almost the same as your lower body length
- You height from your hipline to the ground is equal to half your full height
- Your waist is equal to your bent elbow
- The short segments (bust-to-hip and hip-to-knee) are similar in length as are the long segments (head-to-bust and knee-to-floor).
Many women with this vertical body shape are also petite (<160cm (5’3”)). As women grow older this body type can pose a problem as many women will gain weight around the waist, which may lead to a feeling of being short waisted.
How to dress the belanced vertical body shape?
Your dressing aims is to elongate the short segments (bust to hip and hip to knee) to create more of a golden ratio.
- Wear tops that are medium to long to create more of a 2/3 – 1/3 proportion rather than 1/2 – 1/2
- Do not tuck your tops
- Get pants and skirts either without waistband or only a narrow waistband
- Better to use tops and bottoms in one color and to avoid contrasting colors at the waistline
- Wear dresses that flow through the waist, create a 2/3 proportion with your dress
- Avoid wide belts
- Avoid empire waist dresses
Long legs short torso
Most often seen with tall women although there are always the exceptions. You have this body type when:
- Your legs tend to be very long as compared to the torso length
- The height from ground to hip is higher than half your full height
- You appear high waisted, higher than your bent elbow
- Weigh gain tends to be aorund the midriff
How to dress for the longs legs / short torso vertical body type?
Your dressing aim is to visually lengthen your short torso to create more balance.
- You can leave your blouses tucked out to elongate the waist
- Long jackets, top and over blouses
- Accessories that draw the eyes down
- Skirts and pants without waistbands
- Wear low waisted skirts and pants
- Narrow non-contrasting belts
- Low to medium heels.
Short leg / long torso
These women are usually short to average in height, you have this body type when:
The upper body tends to be longer that the lower body
Often has a low, heavy bottom
Weight tends to form on the thighs and bottom
How to dress the sthort leg / long torso vertical body type?
The dressing aim for this body type is to lengthen the legs and shorten the torso.
- Wear short to medium-long tops and jackets
- If your horizontal body type permits tuck in your tops
- Accessorieze for focus on the upper side op the body
- Sraight skirt enlongate more than a-lines or flared skirts
- Wear medium to wide belts
- Classic wide pants will look great on you
- Keep socks, shoes and bottoms all in the same color
- Wear heals
- Avoid cropped pants
- Avoid tight tapered skirts and pants
- Avoid skirts and trousers with a dropped waistband
Here is an example of the difference dressing correctly can make
The latter (long torso / short legs) is my own vertical body type and dressing correctly can make a real difference.
I don’t always get it right, as in terms of comfort, I prefer to wear belts and skirts low waisted. Since I have reasonable height and provided I wear high heals, I get away with it (barely), but it’s definitely something i need to do less of.
See what a big difference it makes if I emphasize my upper half and apply all ‘rules’ to elongate my legs.
The silhouette at the left is far too boxy and not so flattering at all.The skirt on the left does not fit me properly in the waist.
I try to compensate with my thick belt, but it isn’t short enough. The skirt is too short and boxy for my body type and I should not wear this skirt without heels.
In the picture on the right, I actually appear to have long legs…
Please note that the guidelines above are for general guidance only. Everyone is different and you certainly don’t have to stick to the above guidelines to dress well!
Read these article to learn about your unique body type:
- How to determine your horizontal body type
- How look taller and slimmer
- How to hide a belly
How about you. Do you know your vertical body type? Do you take it into account when you are dressing yourself?
If you like to kickstart your style right now, you may like to download our free guide and mini coursewhich willget your style on track in no time!
Written by Sylvia
Sylvia is 40+style’s editor-in-chief and has been helping women find their unique style since 2011. An alumni of the School of Color and Design, she is devoted to empowering women of any age to look and feel their best. Read more about Sylvia and 40+style on this page.
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18 Comments
Judyon May 18, 2015 at 9:08 pm
Thank-you Sylvia, this was very informative! I believe, I’m a balanced vertical body type..I’m 5’8” and have a 42c bust line, my waist line is equal to my hip line and this can be a problem when buying pants. Do you have any suggestion?
Louiseon January 11, 2015 at 8:08 pm
Love what you are telling me, however I need some help! I am 168cm tall,hourglass tending to go pear shape,with my hip to floor measurement 2cm shorter than the top of my head to my widest part, please help. I enjoy flats but know heels look better and wide legged trousers shorten and widen me.
Sylviaon January 12, 2015 at 5:55 pm
Tracey Jenningson September 13, 2014 at 9:50 pm
On my way out to meet a friend, but will definitely be back later to look at this again and do measurements to see where i fit in… Great and very useful information… Great Post Sylvia!
Joon January 7, 2014 at 5:59 am
Wow!!! Seeing those photos of you at the end! I am that body shape, and now all is made clear! I just need to lose the 10kgs so I can wear nice trousers again 😉
Tonixon January 9, 2013 at 8:04 am
I am an hourglass/rectangle, short leg/long torso but I cheat by always wearing 4 or 5 inch heeled shoes or boots. This give me a longer and more balanced look. I know this is ‘cheating’ but I am only 5 foot 1 1/2 inches tall and very slim so I feel insignificant rather than petite without them. I suppose there will come a time when I no longer have the balance to wear high heels. Any advice ?
Livon December 24, 2012 at 1:02 pm
Hi, I’m 150.5cm and from the hip to the floor I’m 78.5. Does this classify me as long legs/short torso even though I’m short? Also, is your inseam relevant? Because I heard that to tell your vertical body type you had to measure your inseam instead of your hip to floor. Thanks 🙂
Sylviaon December 24, 2012 at 3:33 pm
Yes, that’s right. I would measure it from the widest point of your hip to the floor.
chrison December 2, 2012 at 4:53 am
Hi there! Can you help me? I’m a Balanced Verticle Body Type. 5 ft 1″… 120lbs… Although I work out, I still seem to carry my weight in the middle but I do great job hiding it! 🙂 This extra weight def makes me appear more short waisted than I already am! I have a formal event coming up….Can I pull off a long evening gown? Or, should I stick with a shorter (a little above the knee) co*cktail dress? My husband will be wearing a tux. My legs are in decent shape…I’m in my early 50’s. Can you please let my know what styles I should be looking for depending on long gown or short co*cktail dress? eg… Can I do one shoulder? Strapless? Or should I just stick to the “V” neckline? I want to look age appropriate/ elegant Thanks!
Sylviaon December 4, 2012 at 11:01 am
Hi Chris, It’s difficult to give you advice based on the info you have given me. But I feel that any body shape can pull of a long dress. I love one shoulder dresses and that could suit you too. A nice long dress in one colour, perhaps with subtle draping, can also really make you look taller, which is always nice for evening.
Tammy Turneron November 16, 2012 at 10:12 am
Hi, I am very interested in what you have to say, I am 5ft.2inches tall and I am a size 34 dd bust and my lower half is very curvy, my fiance says I am balanced vertical shape, but I am so confused, should I wear high waisted pants , sweaters that come to my hip, and high heels, I do not like showing my curvy bottom so much, what should I do , i feel frumpy in everything I wear, HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you,
TammySylviaon November 17, 2012 at 4:40 pm
Hi Tammy, It’s difficult to be very specific as I don’t have all your measurements but from what I know you will look best in v-line tops, a-line skirts and dresses, long lapel, single button jackets and straight or wide legged trousers. You may want to seek more help or upload looks to the style forum . You can also try out the online professional stylist program or my personal styling service.
stephanieon August 24, 2012 at 11:27 am
Suppose one is well proportioned like myself? I am almost 6 ft and am not sure what body type I have but I am well proportioned. I have long legs, a long torso, long arms, long neck. Does that mean I can wear anything?
Sylviaon August 24, 2012 at 2:39 pm
Hi Stephanie. You certainly have a lot more choices. But as a well proportioned person, you are still likely to fit in one of the body types, probably rectangular, inverted triangle or hourglass, so it’s still worthwhile looking at what best suits you. https://40plusstyle.com/how-to-determine-body-shape/
Cathon February 4, 2012 at 8:04 am
I seem to have lost my ‘mojo’ completely. I,ve just recently been described as a ‘blimp.’
5’0′ , short legs and torso, every thing I put on makes me feel blah. Help!!Sylviaon February 4, 2012 at 11:28 am
Hi Cath, First of all anyone who describes you like that is not worth tallking too. Completely ignore! Everybody can look great no matter how small or tall, as long as you pick the right clothes for your height and body type and pick clothes that excite you and make you feel YOU. This reminds me that it is high time that I write an article on how to dress when you are petite. I will do so next week, so please stay tuned for that. Meanwhile you may want to start reading my articles on how to find your style, and finding your style statement, so you will understand which clothes will make you feel better!
Sherry @ Girls Day Outon October 4, 2011 at 6:21 am
Thank you for following me….I am starting to follow you regularly, as well! I love this blog! It is so relevant. I am hoping you can help me with my problem. I can’t tell which body type I am! AND I often think I am dressing the best way and then my OOTD pics look completely different than I look in the mirror. So, I am logging into My Professional Stylist right now! I will let you know how it urns out. Cheers! xoxo
Sylviaon October 4, 2011 at 7:02 am
Yes, please let me know how you went with that. I think that program is really good at finding your body type and the styles that are best for you. If you need more help, then let me know.
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