Vintage Clothing History Guide - Stockings & Tights (2024)

Vintage Clothing History Guide - Stockings & Tights (1)

Elegant, sheer and comfortable tights (or pantyhose as they are known in the US) are now taken for granted, however it was only in the 1960s that "nylons" became widely available.

Stockings For Men

Vintage Clothing History Guide - Stockings & Tights (2)

For the previous 400 yearsstockingshad ruled supreme - ever since the knitting machine was invented in 1589 by Reverend William Leeand stockings made from wool, silk and cotton appeared for the first time. These earlystockings were frequently referred to as hose, from which the termhosierywas derived, and were generally worn by men.

The stockings market was revolutionised by the change of fashions in the 20th Century when it became socially acceptable for women to show their legs, and with the invention ofnylonin the1930san affordable alternative tosilk stockingsbecame available.

Nylon

Vintage Clothing History Guide - Stockings & Tights (3)

In 1935Julian Hill, working with a team led byWallace Carothers, discovered that by pulling a heated rod from a mixture of coal tar, water and alcohol a strong, sheer filament formed that was silk-like in appearance.

Two years later the process was patented byDupont, and in 1939 the new synthetic fibre -Nylon- was shown at the World Trade Fair in New York; The NY from New York, providing the first two letters of the name nylon. The first nylon stockings appeared in New York stores on May 15, 1940 and over 780,000 pairs were sold in the first day alone.

In the first year, 64 million pairs were sold in the US, and nylons soon became the generic name for all hosiery products containing nylon.

However once the USA joined World War II all production of nylon went into the war effort and nylon stockings became very hard to obtain - during this time women painted seams on the back of their legs instead so it appeared as if they were wearing stockings. Many people want to achieve this look now to emulate 1940s womens fashion trends.Butyou don't have to draw a pencil line down your calves instead choose from our range of vintage look seamed stockings and tights.

Seams

Vintage Clothing History Guide - Stockings & Tights (4)

At the time that nylon was invented only stockings existed. These traditional stockings were known as "Fully Fashioned" in that they were fashioned to the shape of the leg as nylon did not stretch. For this reason they came in a large number of sizes. These traditional stockings were knitted flat and then the two sides were joined manually by hand with a fine seam up the back.

In the late 1950s yarn manufacturers discovered that they could add stretch to nylon by crimping it under heat, then in 1959Du PontinventedLycrawhich can stretch up to seven times its original length without breaking and subsequently recover its shape. Thus dramatically improving the fit, comfort and strength of the hosiery.

Tights

Vintage Clothing History Guide - Stockings & Tights (5)

With the advent of themini skirtin the 1960s an alternative to stockings was required andtightstook over (within 2 years they had 70% market share). Mary Quant helped to revolutionise 1960s fashion with her bright & colourful Mod style tights. During the same period hosiery manufacturers moved away from knitting flat and instead hosiery was knitted in a tube, as a result nylons with seams virtually disappeared.

In recent years, although increasing numbers of women go bare legged, hosiery technology has developed considerably and a wide range of new products are now commonly available from body toning control top tights and thigh-highs (hold-ups) to moisturising and massaging tights.

As a seasoned enthusiast and expert in the realm of hosiery, particularly the evolution of stockings, nylons, and tights, I bring forth a wealth of knowledge rooted in historical developments, technological advancements, and the cultural shifts that have shaped this fascinating domain.

Let's delve into the comprehensive understanding of the concepts interwoven in the article about elegant, sheer, and comfortable tights:

  1. Historical Evolution of Stockings:

    • The article notes that for around 400 years, stockings held a prominent place, tracing back to the invention of the knitting machine in 1589 by Reverend William Lee. These stockings, initially made from wool, silk, and cotton, were commonly referred to as hose, leading to the derivation of the term hosiery.
  2. Social Acceptance and Invention of Nylon:

    • The turning point came in the 20th century when societal norms shifted, allowing women to reveal their legs. The invention of nylon in the 1930s provided an affordable alternative to silk stockings, revolutionizing the hosiery market.
  3. Discovery and Introduction of Nylon:

    • Julian Hill's collaboration with Wallace Carothers resulted in the discovery of nylon in 1935. The patented process by Dupont in 1937 led to the introduction of the synthetic fiber at the World Trade Fair in 1939. Nylon stockings hit the market on May 15, 1940, becoming an instant success with over 780,000 pairs sold on the first day.
  4. Nylon during World War II:

    • The article highlights the impact of World War II on nylon production, as all resources were redirected to the war effort. This scarcity led to the creative solution of painting seams on legs to mimic the appearance of stockings.
  5. Seams in Stockings:

    • Traditional stockings were "Fully Fashioned," crafted to the shape of the leg because nylon didn't stretch. These stockings had a fine seam up the back, a characteristic that endured until the late 1950s.
  6. Introduction of Lycra:

    • In 1959, Du Pont's invention of Lycra brought a revolutionary change. By adding stretch to nylon through crimping, Lycra allowed hosiery to stretch up to seven times its original length without breaking, vastly improving fit, comfort, and strength.
  7. Rise of Tights and Mini Skirts:

    • The 1960s saw the emergence of tights as a popular alternative to stockings, especially with the rise of the mini skirt. Within two years, tights claimed a 70% market share, and fashion icon Mary Quant played a significant role in popularizing colorful Mod style tights.
  8. Technological Advances in Hosiery:

    • The article concludes by acknowledging the ongoing evolution in hosiery technology. Despite the trend of going bare-legged, the market now offers a diverse range of products, including control top tights, thigh-highs (hold-ups), and innovative options like moisturizing and massaging tights.

In summary, the journey from traditional stockings to the widespread acceptance of nylons and the subsequent dominance of tights is a fascinating tale of societal shifts, technological innovations, and the dynamic world of fashion.

Vintage Clothing History Guide - Stockings & Tights (2024)
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