Samples! Often a confusing concept for those new to the apparel business, and even those with a few years experience.
There are probably about 13 types of samples that are common in apparel manufacturing, but no sane person would insist on a supplier providing all of these. Cost and time aside, it is unlikely many manufacturers have the capacity to sample all 13, so I will identify what I consider the key ones.
Counter samples
A counter sample is simply the first sample a factory makes for a production order.
This sample is to check a factory's sewing quality, ability to interpret technical packages, and their ability to achieve the required garment specifications. If you have physical reference sample, these need to be sent to the factory to assist them.
Before I consider doing business with a potential supplier, I usually insist that they make me two basic counter samples (I call these Pre Counter Samples), of two of my styles, in closest available fabric and color. I do not require any artwork on these samples, nor trims. These samples are simply to check the factories sewing ability, technical package interpretation (especially the correct stitching requirements), and ability to achieve the garment specification.
Again. I will not consider doing business with a factory, unless they supply these samples, free of charge. I will not pay for these samples for two reasons.
Firstly, I consider them a factory business development cost. They are the only way a foreign buyer can determine the quality level a factory is capable of, without physically visiting. And you cannot visit every factory that contacts you.
Secondly, I have received very bad quality samples in the past.
Many factories want to be paid a sampling fee for these basic counter samples, but this I will never do. As mentioned, it is a factory business development cost.
If these samples are good then business is possible.
Once the order is placed, they will need to make counter samples for all styles in the order. The cost of these need to be factored into the FOB price by the factory, otherwise you leave yourself open to additional, unplanned for costs.
These counter samples will be used for first fitting. If their are problems you have two options. Get them remade by the factory, or get them to correct in the next round of sampling, the Pre Production Sample, or simply PPS.
Pre Production Samples
Once a factory has all its bulk fabric and trims in, they need to make Pre Production Samples, or PPS, as they will now be referred to.
These samples need to be a DIRECT REPRESENTATION of bulk, and need to be made prior to bulk fabric being cut. They need to be in the correct fabric, color, with all approved trims and embelishments. I always require 3 PPS. One for the factory's reference, one for me to check and approve, and one for the inspection agency. I require the factory to send my PPS and the PPS for the inspection company to me directly, and then I will check both, and send the inspection company's PPS directly to them. Some buyers do not require 3 PPS. They only require 2. One for the buyer and one for the factory. The inspection company is expected to use the factory's PPS for reference when inspecting, but this opens the door for obvious potential issues.
Again, the costs of these need to be included in the FOB price.
Only once the PPS is approved can a factory start bulk production. Some buyers require a full size set of PPS, to ensure measurements are correct for all styles. I generally do not, and in my experience I have not had any major issues, by not requesting a size set. However, I will require a full size set occasionally, if I am not 100% confident in a factory's ability.
Top Of Production Sample
Top of production samples, which will now be referred to as TOP samples, are pulled from the first finished and packed garments off the production line. They will be compared to PPS to ensure all is correct. These samples can be useful, but if a problem is identified, it is usually too late to do anything about it. By this stage, all panels will likely be cut, and embellishments done. In this case they are basically an early warning of a problem that the inspectors will find, so negotiation with the factory can begin with regard to any problems prior to inspection. This saves some time. If the problem is AQL critical, the style will probably be canceled. If not, a discount will need to be negotiated. Never pay full price to a factory, for even the smallest mistake.
Again, the costs of these need to be included in the FOB price.
Salesman Samples
Prior to placing bulk orders, some buyers require salesman samples, or SMS. These are basically self explanatory. They are used by sales people to sell the garments prior to placing a bulk order. These are obviously useful, as it enables you to have a good idea of your sales, prior to placing your bulk order, to ensure you do not order too much or too little stock. Also, if a style does not sell well, it can be canceled prior to ordering.
These can be treated as a mini production order, as they need to be 100% representative of bulk. The benefit, is that they can also be used as PPS, which cuts down the bulk production time.
As to the cost of these, 150 % FOB price is what you should pay for them.
ALWAYS LET YOUR SUPPLIER KNOW YOUR SAMPLE REQUIREMENTS A FIRST CONTACT.
This is just a basic introduction to the most important samples. For any clarity, or questions, please feel free to contact me on michael@offshoreapparel.net
Hope this was helpful.
