What Does 'Black Tie' Mean? (2024)

'Tis almost the season for black tie events to shine. In our post-lockdown world, parties are now insistent upon shrugging free the sartorial shackles of lockdown, and demanding the most lavish of dress codes, complete with all of the core tenets of 'out-out' dressing.

But events that impose a ‘black tie’ dress code might seem a little daunting to the uninitiated. If you're the type of person who lives in jeans and sunglasses (we don't blame you - comfort is ultimately king), being asked to stare down the barrel of a super formal occasion is unnerving.

For its autumn/winter 2023 collection, Valentino presented a riff on traditional black-tie; suits were de-constructed, dresses were embellished. Chanel also elbowed in on the rigour of black tie, offering a monochromatic interpretation of traditional black tie. The traditions were discarded, but the rules of traditional black tie were clearly adhered to.

That being said, there is a lot of confusion around what black tie actually means, specifically black tie for women. Do you have to wear a floor length dress? Does it have to actually be black? Do you have to cover your shoulders? That sort of thing.

Let us help you decipher the dress code with our easy-breezy guide:

Do you have to wear a floor-length dress?

Although, historically, people have interpreted black tie to mean a floor-length evening gown, the pavement-grazing nature of your dress is not a pre-requisite for the dress code.

Black tie was invented in the Edwardian era and entailed dressing smartly for dinner and drinks functions with a start time later than 6pm. Considering that at the turn of the 20th century, essentially all women's skirts were floor-length, be they smart or casual, this is perhaps where the assumption comes from.

It will please you to know, then, that as hem lines began to vary, so did black tie dresses for women. Assume that at its core, 'black tie' is synonymous with 'formal', though in these days of hedonism, some might propose to replace 'formal' with 'fabulous.' At the very least, though it isn't the most formal of all dress codes, it does denote a heavy degree of fanciness.

Unless otherwise specified on the invitation, ‘black tie’ in general permits any length, so midi and even shorter styles, within reason, are acceptable. But, given the formality, showing a lot of skin might draw stares from other guests. Midi-to-full hemlines are your safest (and chicest) bet. Choose minis if you're brazen and don't mind being centre of attention.

If you opt for midi length, think of the classic couture shape of the 1950s – nipped in at the waist with a full skirt. It’s timeless and readily available on the high street right now.

If you opt for full length, seek out gowns with a slight train or dipped hem at the back. This adds a little elegance to the silhouette.

You can always, of course, opt for a dress with a waterfall hem, which is shorter in the front and longer in the back, if you can't quite make up your mind on a skirt-length.

Do women have to wear black?

Black tie for men typically means a dinner jacket (tuxedo) which traditionally comes in black (although other colours are now available and acceptable), so you do generally see a lot of black at black tie events. And, of course, a black dress is a simple, stress-free option, so it's usually on a woman's shortlist.

But to be clear, a black tie dress code does not require a woman to wear black. Every colour is acceptable and there are some fantastic, jewel tones out there just screaming the right level of opulence for a fancy occasion.

Don’t rule out prints either; Erdem's floral silks and Richard Quinn's bold patterns are perfect for a black tie event. And sequins will always have a home at black tie events.

What fabric should women wear?

Considering black tie events are almost exclusively in the evening and demand a certain degree of ceremony, they render some fabrics inappropriate.

For safety, stick to plush, rich fabrics - the most obvious being silks, satin, taffeta, tulle, lace and chiffon.

You can almost certainly rule out jersey, knit, cotton, corduroy, flannel, linen, denim and other distinctly casual, day-time fabrics.

The brave among you might weave in lurex, jacquard, gauze and leather and bigger design features (like a giant felt bow, see below), so long as the final look feels luxe.

Do you have to wear a dress?

Nope. Technically you don't have to wear a dress. If you're willing, there are a few other options.

Take Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo as your inspiration and opt for a classic women’s tuxedo, or even a jumpsuit.

Or what about dress-like separates? A Vivienne Westwood corset with a ruched, full skirt would be a show-stopping look.

Just be sure to opt for a luxurious fabric and add heels to keep the look elevated.

Do you have to wear a hat or fascinator?

Absolutely not. Given that black tie events typically take place in the evening, you are not required to wear a hat or fascinator which are the preserves of day time occasionwear.

That being said - do consider the complete look. The joy of black tie is that it gives you the permission to go all out, so make the most of it. An Ashley Williams-style statement hair slide, a satin Prada headband or a one-of-a-kind piece of jewellery would all be excellent additions to your black tie outfit.

With Schiaparelli having such a moment, you can take inspiration from the couturier and consider accessories as an integral part of the overall look. A gold breastplate, for example? A feather choker that spills out over the bodice of the dress? The world of accessories is your oyster.