Uncovering the business of high fashion
—David Johnson
The term “haute couture” is French. Haute means “high” or “elegant.” Couture literally means “sewing,” but has come to indicate the business of designing, creating, and selling custom-made, high fashion women's clothes.
Strict Regulations
To be called a haute couture house, a business must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris, which is regulated by the French Department of Industry.
Members must employ 15 or more people and present their collections twice a year. Each presentation must include at least 35 separate outfits for day and eveningwear.
Glittering Names
The syndicate has about 18 members, including such fashion giants as Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Pierre Cardin. The houses generate more than $1 billion in annual sales and employ close to 5,000 people, including 2,200 seamstresses. Workers often specialize in one area, such as feathers, fabric, buttons, shoes, etc. Before World War II, 35,000 people worked at couture houses.
Staggering Prices
Made from scratch for each customer, haute couture clothing typically requires three fittings. It usually takes from 100 to 400 hours to make one dress, costing from $26,000 to over $100,000. A tailored suit starts at $16,000, an evening gown at $60,000.
A Small Market
Today only 2,000 women in the world buy couture clothes; 60% are American. Only 200 are regular customers. Often, designers will loan clothes to movie stars or other public figures for publicity.
During fashion's “golden age,” after World War II, some 15,000 women wore couture. Socialites such as the duch*ess of Windsor, Babe Paley, and Gloria Guiness would order whole collections at a time.
Despite the small market, designers maintain haute couture operations partly because the prestige helps sell other products, such as perfume, cosmetics, and their ready-to-wear lines available in stores.
I'm a fashion industry enthusiast with a comprehensive understanding of haute couture and the intricate workings of the high fashion world. My expertise spans the historical evolution, operational intricacies, and contemporary nuances of this exclusive realm.
The article touches upon several essential concepts within haute couture and the business of high fashion:
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Haute Couture Definition: The term itself originates from French, where "haute" translates to "high" or "elegant," and "couture" refers to "sewing." However, its modern implication extends to the entire process of designing, creating, and selling custom-made, high fashion women's clothing.
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Regulations and Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture: To be labeled as a haute couture house, stringent regulations come into play. This designation requires membership in the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris, regulated by the French Department of Industry. Criteria include employing a minimum of 15 individuals and presenting collections biannually, each containing at least 35 distinct day and eveningwear outfits.
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Prominent Fashion Houses: The Syndical Chamber consists of approximately 18 esteemed members, notably including renowned fashion giants like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Pierre Cardin. These houses collectively generate over $1 billion in annual sales and employ thousands of skilled professionals, with specialization in various areas such as fabric, feathers, buttons, and footwear.
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Labor-Intensive Nature and Prices: Haute couture garments are meticulously handcrafted for individual clients, typically requiring three fittings and demanding extensive labor, ranging from 100 to 400 hours per dress. Consequently, the prices for these bespoke creations can start from $26,000 and exceed $100,000 for a single dress, with tailored suits commencing at $16,000 and evening gowns at $60,000.
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Market Size and Evolution: The market for haute couture is exceedingly niche, with only around 2,000 clients globally, primarily comprising 60% Americans. A mere 200 individuals are regular patrons, a stark contrast to the post-World War II era when approximately 15,000 women adorned couture. Notably, the prestige associated with haute couture aids designers in promoting other product lines like perfumes, cosmetics, and ready-to-wear collections available in stores.
Understanding the exclusivity, craftsmanship, historical significance, and economic dynamics encapsulated within haute couture underscores the significance of this elite segment within the broader fashion industry.
