What Is Sustainable Fashion? A Comprehensive Guide For The Ethical Consumer (2024)

The fashion police don’t police fashion where it matters, so it’s up to consumers to know what constitutes a truly sustainable fashion brand.

Of course, with expansive supply chains and the subjectivity of ethics, there are no easy answers and sometimes, tradeoffs need to be made.

For example, synthetic fiber fill for your ethical coats may be better from an animal ethics standpoint, but animal-based down or wool insulation that’s compostable is better from a sustainability one. In these instances, we as consumers must weigh out personal values and balance the scales as best we can.

At SJ, we have six main criteria for what makes a fashion brand sustainable:

• Sustainable materials
• Supply chain and labor practices
• Carbon reduction and commitments
• Green business practices
• Inclusivity and diversity
• Community and charitable giving

1. Sustainable Materials

Materials determine the majority of a garment’s impact, so it’s no wonder sustainable fabrics are our first and most important consideration.

There’s a lot to discuss here, so here’s a quick summary of what to look for in eco-friendly fashion materials:

• Natural, organic materials in pure blends, rendering finished garments compostable
• Synthetics (if used at all) that are recycled and recyclable
• Fit for purpose (i.e. durable)
• Safe and non-toxic dyes
• Certifications to back up organic, recycled, or non-toxic claims

Sustainable fabrics typically fall into one of three categories: natural, semi-synthetic, and recycled synthetic.

Natural Fibers

These are natural fibers with minimal processing, like cotton—though we don’t include traditionally grown cotton for obvious reasons already mentioned.

• Organic Cotton: Grown and processed without any pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, requiring up to 91% less water and 62% less energy than traditional cotton.
• Recycled Cotton: Repurposed cotton from post-industrial or post-consumer waste. While it makes use of other landfill-bound material, there’s no way to organically certify recycled cotton because we just don’t know.
• Hemp fabric: One of the oldest fibers, requiring 50%+ less water than even organic cotton and no pesticides.
• Linen: Like hemp, but derived from the flax plant.
• Bamboo fabric: Bamboo is one of the most sustainable natural resources on earth, but its fabric form can go one of two ways. Raw bamboo linen is made mechanically, which is not to be confused with chemically-processed bamboo rayon.
• Protein fibers: These are all animal-based fibers and are thus not for vegan fashion, like ethical wool, down, silk, angora, alpaca, llama, cashmere, mohair, camel, and down. While earth-safe and minimally processed, it’s important to source these either recycled or from certified humane sources (i.e. ZQ Merino, Responsible Wool Standard, and Responsible Down Standard).

Cellulose or Semi-Synthetic Fibers

These are based with natural fibers (usually wood pulp) converted into a fabric via a chemical “plasticizing” method.

Synthetic fabrics are tricky, because depending on this processing is done, they’re either pretty sustainable or far from it.

For example, traditional viscose fabric uses caustic chemicals (like sulfuric acid) to turn wood into something you’d want to wear—or not, knowing that.

However, some forms of viscose (like lyocell) utilize less toxic solvents and apply them in a closed-loop system that recycles these solvents and water.

It’s for this reason (and subsequent greenwashing) that bamboo is so bamboo-zling. Chemically-processed bamboo can either be made like traditional viscose or like lyocell.

Here are the semi-synthetics you can consider part of your sustainable wardrobe:

• TENCEL™ lyocell fabric: Wood pulp (namely eucalyptus, but others, too) from sustainable sources converted into a fiber via non-toxic cellulose solvents (like amine-oxide) rather than sulfuric acid. All water and 99% of the chemicals can be recovered and reused.
• TENCEL™ modal fabric: Beech tree pulp turned into fabric using a similar closed-loop manufacturing process to lyocell.
• Bamboo lyocell: Made using a chemical manufacturing process but in a closed-loop system where the chemicals are re-used over and over again. Before buying bamboo lyocell products, check with the brand to understand their sustainability metrics.
• Select vegan leather: Some vegan leathers are actually just types of plastic (PU and PVC), but some transform plant-based materials into a leather-like substitute. Examples include Piñatex (pineapple leaf byproduct), Bananatex® (banana industry byproduct), and apple leather (apple juice industry waste). Just be sure the brand doesn’t add a plastic coating.

Recycled Synthetic Fabrics

There are many innovations going on in the Waste-to-Wardrobe world, including recycled fabrics for all major petroleum based fabrics: polyester, nylon, spandex, acrylic, polyethylene, and polypropylene.

Since they’re still plastic, recycled synthetic fabrics may not have a great end of life outcome as biodegradable fabrics, but they’re better than virgin counterparts.

Using existing plastic that otherwise pollutes our waterways is a win.

Some notable recycled synthetic fibers are:

• Recycled PET (rPET): Usually made from other textiles or recycled plastic bottles and often used in sustainable activewear.
• ECONYL: Made from recovered ocean plastics such as ghost nets, or abandoned fishing nets which make up a tenth of all ocean plastic. You’ll usually find it in sustainable swimwear.
• Spanflex: The only GRS and bluesign® certified recycled spandex alternative, but it’s still very rare to find it in use for unknown reasons.

Certifications For Material Sustainability In Fashion

We want to be sure the fabrics are what they claim to be in our sustainable clothing, meaning we look for third-party sustainability certifications.

While there are many to speak of, here are the most frequently seen in fashion:

• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): Upholds ethical and ecological criteria for fibers, which must be produced 100% biologically from seed to shelf. No chemicals, pesticides, fertilizers, or machine harvesting is allowed at any stage.
• OEKO-TEX: Ensures fabrics & processes do not contain any toxic chemicals like heavy metals, colorants, preservatives, and formaldehyde. This cert can apply to either raw or finished materials, but not necessarily both, which leaves some room for greenwashing.
• USDA Organic: Says something was made with USDA-certified organic crops, but says nothing of the processing beyond that.
• Forest Stewardship Council (FSC): Despite scandals in sustainable forestry certifications, it’s meant to ensure plants are harvested using sustainable methods from well-managed forest to minimize deforestation and endangerment of animals and ecosystems.
• bluesign®: Focuses on healthy, eco-friendly production methods by accounting for water conservation, dye toxicity, and chemical exposure both for workers and customers.
• Better Cotton Standard (BCI): While imperfect, it’s the largest cotton sustainability program in the world, awarding certification based on seven social and economic sustainability principles.
• Global Recycle Standard (GRS): Establishes a minimum recycled content (50%) for consumer products so you know a brand claiming to use recycled materials is more than just 2%.

Almost all of these certification schemes have, at some point, been embroiled in greenwashing accusations.

For example, GOTS recently came under fire for large amounts of fraudulent organic cotton coming from India as a result of their third-party inspection agencies (like Ecocert) certifying farms that weren’t using organic practices at all.

Does this mean we should take any stock in certifications?

Not necessarily. Certifications are still very useful tools to determine what makes a fashion brand sustainable. It just means they’re not all that does, and they should be regarded (as with any sustainability claim) with a healthy degree of scrutiny.

Eco Friendly Fabric Dyes

Even if you have a totally organic cotton t-shirt, if it was dyed with toxic dyes and excessive water use, it’s not so sustainable.

Additionally, companies may claim their fabrics are biodegradable, even if dyed with toxic chemicals that would contaminate wherever it degrades into.

Luckily, sustainable dyes are improving, as are the processes by which we apply them.

At the very least, dyes should be azo-free. While not all harmful, some azo dyes can form aromatic amines filled with carcinogenic compounds.

Better still are plant-based dyes or other natural options like those by Colorifix, which are non-polluting, non-toxic, and use 10x less water.

For the dyeing process, look out for closed-loop and/or waterless methods such as AirDye® orCO₂ dyeing.

2. Supply Chain & Labor Practices

We also have to ensure the social side is ethical across the entire supply chain, looking for:

Small, Controlled Supply Chains

Smaller supply chains mean more control and fewer unknown variables for companies. Some good indications a company has a handle on their supply chain:

• Products are made in their base country (i.e. made-in-the-USA)
• Products are made in developed countries, where workplace health and safety codes and wage requirements are more strictly enforced.
• Small product line: The larger the offerings, the larger the supply chain. Solid brands don’t need to offer a huge array of garments, just a few simple things made really well will do.
• Use of small, family-owned factories or artist cooperatives
• Regular audits and brand visits to their factories

Transparency

Larger brands with huge product lines likely can’t keep everything traceable, so we need them to be as open as possible about sourcing and manufacturing.

We want to know exactly where things were made, what protections are in place, and what workers are paid (more ethical brands joining the Lowest Wage Challenge, please!).

Transparency leads to accountability, which leads to CHANGE.

This is the thinking behind the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index, a yearly assessment of 250 major fashion brands on supply chain transparency.

In the 2022 Transparency Index, the average transparency was a dismal 24%, (up just 1% from 2021) and no brand scored above 78%.

Labor Practices

Once a company has disclosed some of their sourcing and business practices, we can consider if they’re really ethical. Greenwashing of ethics is important to look out for, as many companies are guilty of gimmicks today.

One baseline ethical standard is the Social Accountability Standard International (SA8000), though “fair treatment” of laborers is loosely defined and only encompasses big issues like no child labor and minimum wage pay (which isn’t worth any gold stars in developing countries.)

Unfortunately, companies (and Big Oil, who literally fuel the fast fashion industry) are often so good at greenwashing that an absurd amount of mental gymnastics is needed to see through it.

Ethical Fashion Certifications

The best way to know a company isn’t BS-ing you is to look for voluntary certifications obtained through third-party audits.

But if B Corp greenwashing accusations tell us anything, it’s that certifications are not infallible. They’re best when paired with other transparency efforts so consumers can crosscheck the ‘sustainable fashion facts‘ between the two.

There are many sourcing and manufacturing certifications, but here’s a sample, starting with the most trusted and comprehensive:

• B-Corporation: To get this certification, a business’ whole supply chain must meet high standards across 80 “impact areas” both environmental and social every year.
• Fair Trade: There are many different certifying fair trade entities, like the World Fair Trade Organization along with individual chapters such as the North American Fair Trade Federation, Fair Trade USA, Fair Wear Foundation, and Fairtrade International.
• Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP): Holds factories to 12 labor principles, including no forced labor, no child labor, no harassment or abuse, fairly limited work hours, non-discrimination, healthy and safe workplace, and utilization of sustainable practices.
• International Labour Organization (ILO)
• Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)
• Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI)

3. Carbon Reduction & Commitments

Commitments towards carbon neutrality (i.e. greenhouse gas emission reduction until reaching net-zero) were once seen as something “nice” for sustainable brands to have.

But in light of the growing climate change crisis, this needs to be considered necessary among sustainable fashion practices.

Reducing and offsetting a company’s carbon footprint is at the core of what’s required to be considered sustainable fashion, meaning:

• Carbon reduction commitment: We need to see all brands (sustainable or not) have an explicit commitment to reducing carbon by investing in energy efficiencies. For bigger brands, we want to see some Science Based Targets, or something keeping them accountable.
• Evidence-based carbon reduction results: Brands must demonstrate continuous improvements and actual reductions (not just unfulfilled targets listed year in, year out.)
• Carbon offsets: Carbon offset programs are a useful way to counter the emissions a brand can’t completely reduce (and there will always be some), but it’s easy to claim you carbon offset without any real evidence of doing so. We need published proof of offsetting efforts and their numerical impact—because not all have a permanent impact and “additionality” (one that couldn’t have been achieved without the offset).

tentree, Allbirds, Reformation, and Made Trade are setting a good example with their transparent carbon offset efforts.

Still, we need more like Patagonia with ambitious carbon goals and a solid plan to get there that involve reducing emissions, not just paying to retroactively counter them.

4. Green Business Practices

As important as product impact is, we also need to pay attention to operational impact.

Aside from minimizing environmental impact through fabric choices and garment durability, companies can reduce their carbon footprint through:

• Quality products: Sustainable clothing should be made with durability in mind. Look for brands using quality materials and backing them with a lifetime warranty (a good indication they’re confident in the quality of their product).
• End-of-life outcome: Not everything is compostable and not everyone composts, so companies that offer repair, resale, or recycling programs are taking preemptive steps toward full life cycle responsibility for their garments. You can also look for Cradle to Cradle (C2C) certifications.
• Handmade production: Less machinery means less energy and machine emissions. Handcrafting also creates more jobs and helps preserve ancient cultural techniques.
• Deadstock waste: How do they handle it? The ideal is for companies to not have any leftover garments at all, through small-batch or made-to-order manufacturing. For unavoidable offcuts, we look for brands repurposing them into other products (like scrunchies).
• Resource management: From renewable energy to water and waste reduction or recycling practices, there are many creative ways eco-friendly fashion companies can put an eco-friendly spin on the process of textile spinning.
• Office policies: Conscious companies operate low waste themselves, implementing office recycling and composting and eliminating as much waste as possible.
• Sustainable packaging: Look for recycled or compostable shipping materials, tags, sleeves, etc. Or can the packaging be returned to be reused again?
• Shipping: Transportation (both of materials within the supply chain and final product to consumers) accounts for a lot of GHG emissions. Greener companies avoid shipping by air, use freight ships when shipping by sea, and offset their shipping emissions.
• Other sustainability certifications: Some businesses have their facilities certified for sustainable fashion practices and decide, such as Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED).

5. Inclusivity & Diversity

It’s time to end the days of flipping through fashion catalogs and seeing nothing but size 00. The thigh gap is a lie anyway!

Truly ethical fashion brands offer sustainable plus-size clothing (and no, XL doesn’t qualify) as well as gender-neutral clothing to fit all bodies and identities.

We do our best to prioritize these brands, along with those promoting diversity in their image (such as model casting).

6. Community & Charitable Giving

Brands that give back demonstrate it’s about more than the bottom line but instead the triple bottom line: people, planet, then profit.

Sustainable fashion brands should use their profits to better the world in some way, from giving money to charities to organizing events and initiatives.

The 1% for the Planet Program (founded by Patagonia’s Yvon Chouinard) is one of the most reputable give-back programs. Being a member holds ethical brands accountable for reinvesting 1% of annual profits into the environment.

As great as giving is, just be companies hiding unethical business practices with well-promoted give-back schemes.