When most people of kilts, they likely imagine fierce Scottish warriors storming the highlands, much like the movie Braveheart. However, while Scotland is a primary source for kilt history, the fact is that the Irish also wear them.
If you’re not Scottish or Irish, it may be easy to conflate the two and assume that all kilts are the same. However, as we’ll discover in this article, there are some pretty substantial differences. Learning the unique nature of each style can help you figure out the best kilt for your needs, as well as provide some fascinating background on this special garment.
A Brief History of Kilts
If you were paying attention during Braveheart, you probably noticed that the kilts they were wearing are much different than the ones we have today. Back as early as the 16th century, this proto-kilt was called the Feileadh Mor. The purpose was to protect Scotsmen from the brutal weather, although it did become a source of national pride as the years went on.
The most notable difference between a Feileadh Mor and the modern kilt is the addition of a large sash that hung around the torso. While you can wear a shoulder tartan today, it’s a separate piece.
In 1746, the English banned Scotsmen from wearing kilts, believing that they would cause uprisings and revolts. It wasn’t until the late 19th century when the modern kilt came into being.
On the Irish side, kilts were originally called Lein-croichs, and they were worn during the Middle Ages. These garments were traditionally monochromatic and resembled a tunic more than a modern kilt.
As England and the Anglo-Saxons began to take over Ireland, the kilt became a source of Gaelic pride, and the Irish National Tartan was born. Irish nationalism went hand in hand with the wearing of kilts.
Unlike Scottish kilts, the Irish version was initially called the Saffron Kilt, which was mustard-yellow. In many cases, the Irish shamrock design was added to the pleats. Irish soldiers were some of the first to use this style of the kilt, which is still in use today.
What’s in a Tartan?
Both modern Irish and Scottish kilts use tartans, but they mean very different things. On the Scottish side, each tartan is representative of a particular clan. Currently, there are over 25,000 clan tartans registered in the country. Each tartan is associated with a clan’s surname.
For the Irish, tartans represent the various counties and districts of Ireland. So, instead of wearing a particular design to honor your family, you’re recognizing the place in which you were born and raised. For example, if you’re from Galway, you would likely wear the Galway County Tartan.
Differences in Accessories
Both Irish and Scottish kilts come with similar accessories, but much like the tartan, they have different histories and meanings. Let’s break down the various elements you’ll find on both types of kilt.
Crests
Seeing as Scottish kilts are tied to families, crests are a significant part of the ensemble. In traditional weddings, both family crests would be pinned to the groom’s kilt to show unity between clans. Most Scotsmen don’t wear crests except for formal occasions.
As you can imagine, the Irish are not as dedicated to family crests. Instead, they leave the front of the kilt blank, or they might pin a shamrock to it.
Jackets
Although the kilt is the centerpiece of the outfit, the coat you wear can make just as much of a statement.
For the Scottish, they have Prince Charlie and the Argyle designs. Prince Charlie is more for formal occasions, while the Argyle is less fancy. One of the key differences is that the Prince Charlie has more buttons, as well as silk tails on the back. The Argyle has fewer buttons and is suitable for daytime and evening use. Also, the former option isn’t as long in the waist and typically cuts off at the top of the kilt.
For the Irish, their formal jacket design is the Brian Baru, and the less formal version is the Kilkenny. The styles are similar for both, although the Kilkenny is usually dark green to represent Ireland.
Sporrans
Interestingly enough, there are no specific distinctions between the two countries regarding the sporran. That being said, you can find traditional Irish and Scottish designs, such as the shamrock or Scottish thistle. Overall, the appearance of your sporran is based on personal preference rather than heritage.
Hats
Although you don’t have to wear a hat with your kilt, many men do, particularly on formal occasions. The Glengarry hat is endemic to both Ireland and Scotland, although they have a couple of differences.
For the Scottish, the hat has a toorie on top, which resembles a large pom pom. Also, the design on the side is typically a red and white checkered pattern. There is also a tail in the back.
Irish Glengarry hats don’t have the cookie, but the shape of the hat is still the same. For the most part, you can find these hats in a variety of colors and tartan designs.
The Scottish Tam Beret can also be worn with a kilt. This hat is like a large, flat beret that tilts to one side. It typically comes with a toorie on top as well.
Sgian Dubh
Technically speaking, this dagger that tucks into your knee-high socks is Scottish tradition. However, having an ornamental blade as part of your ensemble is pretty awesome, so many Irish kilt wearers choose to incorporate the Sgian Dubh as well.
Other accessories are mostly interchangeable between Scottish and Irish designs. Kilt hoses are the same, as are the Ghillie Brogues (shoes) you wear. In both cases, tartan flashes tuck into the socks, and they should match the pattern on the kilt. Pins are often attached to the front of the kilt, although the design is usually based on personal preferences.
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