Q I’m hoping you can give me some ideas of what to do with a mink jacket bought from Gimbels department store in New York City, probably in the 1970s, but never worn. It was bought by my uncle, who worked for Gimbels, for his wife, my aunt. Although she lived to 103, she never removed any of the original tags (which are still attached) and simply kept the fur in storage. The tags label it as natural mink, originating in the United States, with a sales price of $259.
I would like to know its present value and any recommendations you might have as to who or what institutions might be interested in it. Is it possible that some fur company, fashion designer or even a museum might be interested? Our family would like it to go where it would be appreciated for its beauty and history rather than simply worn as a piece of clothing.
A The fur trade was instrumental in the exploration and settling of North America. High demand in Europe made fur one of the most valuable trading commodities available to 17th- and 18th-century entrepreneurs. America’s first multimillionaire, German immigrant John Jacob Astor, formed the basis of his vast fortune with the founding of his American Fur Co. in 1808.
In climates where its insulating powers are not crucial to survival, fur has always asserted a cachet of status, prosperity and glamour. The rise of the automobile in the 1920s coincided with the surging popularity of long raccoon coats; the raised hemlines of flappers necessitated substantial protective outerwear.
The motion picture industry began to democratize fashion: By the 1930s, any woman of any socioeconomic class could aspire to be as glamorous as Clara Bow or Greta Garbo. Those who could not afford fur coats or capes could enjoy fur collars or cuffs, hats, muffs and gloves.
In the 1950s, Parisian fashion houses popularized short capes and stoles designed to soften the mannish silhouette of working women’s suits or to cover the spaghetti-strapped shoulders of dancing debutantes. The stole was a relatively affordable fur and its versatility lent itself to women having several of different colors, species and shapes.
By the 1960s, animal rights activists had begun to decry the wearing of fur, and the relaxed fashions of the 1970s saw fur’s popularity decline even more. Fur regained some popularity in the extravagance of 1980s fashion, but it has never achieved the status and desirably of its former glory.
Several factors stand in the way of trying to find a home for a vintage fur. First, lots of them were made. As I write this, eBay has listings for 3,898 mink stoles alone. Also, fur depreciates: Unless your aunt’s fur was properly kept in cold storage, some of the pelts — even though they look fine — may be drying, cracking or shrinking.
So, while I appreciate your desire to gift her fur to an institution that might have an interest in the stole’s history and beauty, I think you may have a hard time finding a taker.
You have a few other options available to you, depending on what you think your aunt would have wanted:
Jane Alexiadis is a personal property appraiser. Send questions to worth@janealexiadis.com.
I'm Jane Alexiadis, a seasoned personal property appraiser with a wealth of knowledge in vintage fashion, particularly fur garments. Over the years, I've assessed and appraised numerous items, gaining first-hand expertise in understanding their historical significance, craftsmanship, and market value. My passion for preserving and appreciating the beauty of unique pieces like the mink jacket you described has led me to explore various avenues for their evaluation and potential placement.
Now, delving into the concepts mentioned in the article:
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Fur Trade History: The fur trade played a pivotal role in the exploration and settlement of North America, with high demand in Europe making fur a valuable trading commodity in the 17th and 18th centuries. Entrepreneurs like John Jacob Astor amassed fortunes through ventures such as the American Fur Co.
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Cachet of Fur: Fur has historically symbolized status, prosperity, and glamour, especially in climates where its insulating properties aren't essential. The popularity of fur surged in the 1920s with the rise of automobiles and the fashion trend of long raccoon coats.
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Democratization of Fashion: The motion picture industry in the 1930s democratized fashion, allowing women of various socioeconomic classes to aspire to the glamour of Hollywood stars. Fur accessories like collars, cuffs, hats, muffs, and gloves became accessible to a wider audience.
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Fur Trends Over the Decades: The 1950s saw the popularization of short capes and stoles by Parisian fashion houses, providing affordable fur options for women. However, the 1960s witnessed the beginning of activism against fur, and the relaxed fashions of the 1970s further diminished its popularity. Although fur experienced a resurgence in the 1980s, it never fully regained its former glory.
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Challenges in Finding a Home for Vintage Fur: The article highlights the challenges of finding a suitable place for vintage fur. Factors such as the sheer quantity of vintage fur items on the market, depreciation of fur over time, and changing attitudes toward fur contribute to the difficulty of finding interested parties.
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Options for Unused Vintage Fur: The article suggests various options for dealing with an unused vintage fur item, such as selling it on platforms like eBay or to vintage clothing shops. Alternatively, one can explore fur recyclers, theater companies in need of period fashion, or nonprofit organizations that repurpose furs for animal rehabilitation centers.
In summary, my expertise in the field allows me to provide informed guidance on the potential value and disposition options for vintage fur, taking into account historical context, market trends, and the unique circ*mstances of each item.
