Style|When Does a Style Become a Classic?
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In a sea of trends, a reader wonders how to identify a timeless clothing item.
When does a style become a classic? I have read all the discussions about whether skinny jeans are still in, but if a particular style is a classic, isn’t it always in? Especially if it suits your body type? — Nisha, New York City
“Classic” is one of those words everyone throws around but almost no one defines. Most people’s attitudes toward identifying classics seem to mirror Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart’s, well, classic, words about p*rnography in Jacobellis v. Ohio: “I know it when I see it.”
The best answers to what constitutes a classic I have ever found come from Italo Calvino’s 1986 essay, published in The New York Review of Books and called “Why Read the Classics?” He was talking about books, but like Justice Stewart’s definition of p*rn, his words also explain classic clothing pretty well, especially a series of 14 short definitions. My three favorite are:
“A classic is a book which has never exhausted all it has to say to its readers.”
“A classic is a work which constantly generates a pulviscular cloud of critical discourse around it, but which always shakes the particles off.”
“‘Your’ classic is a book to which you cannot remain indifferent, and which helps you define yourself in relation or even in opposition to it.”
Just sub in “garment” for “book” or “work,” and you’ll get the idea.
It’s pretty much impossible to pinpoint a moment when a piece of work becomes a classic because the label is one that gets added in hindsight. History is written by the victors, goes the adage, and, similarly, classics are anointed by the future. (Except, perhaps, for the word “pulviscular,” which as far as I am concerned is an instant classic.)
But one thing to keep in mind, as Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the designers of Proenza Schouler, said when we were talking over the issue, is that the whole point of a classic is that it transcends any particular style. One of the reasons a classic is a classic is that it can morph to reflect contemporary styles while never losing its core identity.
For example, consider such fashion classics as white shirts, trench coats, little black dresses and flat-front pants. For each of us, and in each era of time, they contain multitudes. Waists and hems may be higher or lower, shoulders smaller or wider, body cuts loose or form-fitting, but the essential form remains.
That means that when it comes to jeans, it is the concept of jeans themselves that is classic, not whether the jeans are skinny, boyfriend, stonewashed or whatever. That is simply a matter of taste and trend.
Finally, it is also possible to differentiate between clothes that are general classics and clothes that are “classics for you” — which is really just another term for “personal uniform.” But that’s a whole other discussion.
Your Style Questions, Answered
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or Twitter. Questions are edited and condensed.
Vanessa Friedman has been the fashion director and chief fashion critic for The Times since 2014. In this role she covers global fashion for both The New York Times and International New York Times. More about Vanessa Friedman
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As a seasoned fashion expert with a deep understanding of style evolution and the criteria that define classics, let's delve into the concepts highlighted in the New York Times article, "When Does a Style Become a Classic?" by Vanessa Friedman.
Firstly, the article touches upon the subjective nature of the term "classic," drawing parallels with Justice Potter Stewart's famous statement on p*rnography. Much like Stewart's definition, classic style, as discussed by Vanessa Friedman, is something people often claim to recognize without a concrete definition. This aligns with the elusive and inherently retrospective nature of labeling something as a classic.
To bolster this perspective, Italo Calvino's insights, as cited in the article, offer a profound understanding of what constitutes a classic. Calvino's definitions emphasize the timeless nature of classics, stating that a classic is a creation that continually resonates with its audience, generates ongoing critical discourse, and elicits a personal connection that helps define one's identity. Applying these criteria to fashion, a classic garment is one that stands the test of time, sparks discussions within the fashion community, and holds personal significance for the wearer.
The article further contends that determining the exact moment when a style transforms into a classic is challenging. The retrospective nature of labeling classics implies that history, or in this case, fashion history, is written with the benefit of hindsight. This aligns with the idea that classics are recognized and celebrated by future generations.
Crucially, the article underscores that a true classic transcends specific styles and trends. Classic garments have the unique ability to adapt to contemporary fashion while retaining their fundamental identity. The designers of Proenza Schouler, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, stress that the essence of a classic lies in its capacity to morph and stay relevant across different style eras.
As an illustration, the article mentions fashion classics such as white shirts, trench coats, little black dresses, and flat-front pants. These items, despite evolving in terms of waistlines, hem lengths, and cuts, maintain their essential forms. Applying this principle to jeans, the concept of jeans itself is deemed classic, irrespective of whether they are skinny, boyfriend, stonewashed, or following any other trend.
In conclusion, the article provides valuable insights into the elusive nature of classic style, drawing from legal, literary, and designer perspectives. It emphasizes that true classics possess a timeless quality, adapt to changing trends, and hold personal significance for individuals. Understanding the essence of classics in fashion requires recognizing their ability to withstand the test of time and remain relevant across diverse style landscapes.
