As more people turn to comfort and preppy styles, boat shoes could be the next big trend to sail away with footwear market share.
Just last week, Italian luxury company Loro Piana said it opened a new factory to meet the “ever-increasing demand” for its footwear, particularly its popular nautical-inspired White Sole shoes. The brand first launched the style in 2005 as sailing boat shoes and gained momentum for its comfortable and light feel and its understated luxury look.
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At the same time, Wolverine Worldwide CEO Brendan Hoffman last week announced a renewed focus on core boating styles within its Sperry brand, which saw revenues decline 28% in the quarter and 10% in fiscal 2022.
“We need to refocus on boat and making boat cool again,” Hoffman said of the brand known for its boat shoes and coastal identity, walking back a recent push to expand Sperry’s appeal beyond its waterside heritage. “And that includes focusing our collabs and marketing around boat with new updated styles that really resonate to the core.”
As people return to offices and live events, fashion footwear sales are on the rise. The category grew 7% in 2022 compared to the prior year, according to data from NPD. At the same time, people are not ready to give up the comfort they got used due during the pandemic, when sneakers are running shoes dominated sales.
When it comes to boat shoes, the category’s look fits in with an overall shift towards preppy fashion, led by brands like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger.
“I think we are seeing a return to preppy,” explained Matt Powell, an advisor at Spurwink River consultancy. “And boat shoes are the epitome of preppy.”
Ralph Lauren, in particular, was a luxury standout in the most recent quarter, with CEO Patrice Louvet describing the brand as “understated luxury grounded in heritage and icons.” The company beat sales expectations and noted a solid performance across multiple regions, including China, in part due to thesuccess of a recent turnaround planfocused on streamlining its retail strategy and doubling down on its direct channels. The retailer said it plans to open more than250 stores over the next three years, focusing on 30 top cities around the globe as Louvet aims to reestablish its standing as a strong luxury fashion player.
At PVH Corp.-owned Tommy Hilfiger, men’s polo sales hit 2019 levels in its most recent quarter as the brand leans into bestselling, hero products to drive growth in North America.
“These traditionally preppy brands are doing well compared to the rest of the apparel market, and a boat shoe fits with this look,” explained Liza Amlani, principal and founder of consulting company Retail Strategy Group. Boat shoes also offer comfort with a slightly more elevated look than a running shoe or sneaker, which makes them an ideal option to wear in the office.
“Loafers are also making a comeback for this same reason,” Amlani added.
At the same time, the factors that define a boat shoe — or any category of footwear, for that matter — are becoming less concrete. Crocs technically originated as a boating shoe that debuted at the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show in 2002 and has since become a major statement in the high-fashion world — as well as a clog designed for comfort and ease. Loro Piana’s white soled shoes, while rooted in “sailing heritage,” also emphasize softness and comfortability.
“Shoes that are comfortable and easy on/off are strong right now,” explained Powell. “Boat shoes fill that bill.”
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As a seasoned footwear enthusiast with a deep understanding of the industry, I find it imperative to shed light on the recent surge in popularity of boat shoes within the ever-evolving footwear market. The evidence supporting this trend is compelling and multi-faceted, demonstrating a seismic shift in consumer preferences and industry strategies.
Firstly, the Italian luxury company Loro Piana's recent announcement of a new factory dedicated to meeting the "ever-increasing demand" for its White Sole shoes attests to the burgeoning interest in nautical-inspired footwear. Loro Piana introduced this style in 2005 as sailing boat shoes, and its success can be attributed to the exceptional comfort, lightweight design, and understated luxury aesthetic. This company's proactive response to the rising demand serves as a testament to the significance of boat shoes in contemporary fashion.
Similarly, Wolverine Worldwide CEO Brendan Hoffman's recent commitment to refocusing on core boating styles within the Sperry brand underscores the industry's recognition of the enduring appeal of boat shoes. Despite a decline in revenues, Hoffman emphasizes the need to make boat shoes cool again, aligning with the brand's coastal identity and walking back from a broader expansion strategy.
Fashion footwear sales, especially in the wake of people returning to offices and live events, have seen a notable uptick. NPD data reveals a 7% growth in the category in 2022 compared to the previous year. This resurgence is particularly interesting as it coincides with a broader societal shift towards comfort, exemplified by the dominance of sneakers and running shoes during the pandemic.
The article further explores how boat shoes seamlessly fit into the resurgence of preppy fashion, epitomized by iconic brands like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. Matt Powell, an advisor at Spurwink River consultancy, notes that boat shoes represent the epitome of preppy style, aligning with the current trend. The success of Ralph Lauren's recent turnaround plan and Tommy Hilfiger's emphasis on hero products, such as men's polo shirts, reinforces the enduring popularity of traditionally preppy brands.
Importantly, the versatility of boat shoes is highlighted. Liza Amlani, the principal and founder of Retail Strategy Group, points out that boat shoes offer comfort with a slightly elevated look compared to sneakers, making them suitable for office wear. This versatility positions boat shoes as a compelling option in a fashion landscape that values both style and comfort.
Finally, the article touches upon the evolving nature of footwear categories, citing examples like Crocs and Loro Piana's white soled shoes. It emphasizes the growing importance of comfort and easy on/off functionality, with boat shoes fitting these criteria seamlessly.
In conclusion, the current trend toward boat shoes is substantiated by the strategic moves of key players in the industry, the alignment with broader fashion shifts, and the versatility that boat shoes offer in the evolving landscape of footwear preferences.
