The short answer is that all stockings used to be knitted flat and the seam was added to hold the stocking together. The technology to make a tubular stocking simply wasn’t available.
The machines used to make these seamed stockings were huge and cumbersome, weighing 30 tons, with a top speed of 30 pairs per hour. The stockings were known as ‘Fully Fashioned Stockings’ as they were fashioned to fit the leg. The stockings they made were beautiful, but manufacturers wanted a cheaper and easier way to knit them.
In the 1950s circular knitting machines were developed and by the mid 1960s seam free stockings had taken over in popularity from seamed Fully Fashioned Stockings. Over the years the Reading machines that were used to make Fully Fashioned Stockings were slowly retired with the last mainstream hosiery brand, Aristoc, discontinuing their Harmony Point Stockings in the early 1990s.
This could have signaled the end of Fully Fashioned Stockings, but 1950s style remained fashionable with faux seamed stockings being developed by many hosiery and lingerie brands including What Katie Did. Today they’re still worn regularly by an ever growing retro fashion fan base as well as visitors to vintage events like the Goodwood Revival. The continued appeal of seamed stockings has been enough to keep genuine Fully Fashioned Stockings in production, although the sales of modern imitation seamed stockings by far outweigh the originals.
Just a handful of factories are still knitting genuine Fully Fashioned Stockings and at What Katie Did we’re proud to support the manufacture of these artisan nylons, having sold them since 1999. Our Fully Fashioned Stockings are made on traditional Reading machines in the north of England and are made from sheer 15 denier nylon. The seam is finished by hand on an overlocker and each leg is individually checked and paired.
Our Fully Fashioned Stockings have appeared on the silver screen, worn by actors including Oprah Winfrey (in The Butler) and Meryl Streep (in Florence Foster Jenkins). Alas, supply frequently outstrips supply which means that most media productions choose our 1950s inspired Glamour Seamed Stockings unless the shot is a close up.
When it comes to stocking aficionados the stocking of choice for that 1950s finishing look remains the Fully Fashioned Stocking.
How can you tell a genuine Fully Fashioned Stocking from a modern reproduction?
- Picot lines: tiny lines of dots either side of the seam on the calf and thigh. Picot lines are made by the Reading knitting machine as it increases or decreases stitches to widen 'fashion' the leg.
- Finishing loop: there is a hole in one side of the welt(stocking top) made when the welt is folded over and finished. It's part of the manufacturing process and not, as urban myth suggests, made to allow you to hold up your stocking by inserting an old penny and twisting!
Find out more:
What Katie Did UK/Outside USA: https://www.whatkatiedid.com/collections/fully-fashioned-stockings
What Katie Did USA: https://us.whatkatiedid.com/collections/fully-fashioned-stockings
As a hosiery enthusiast and industry expert, my extensive knowledge in the field allows me to shed light on the fascinating history and evolution of stockings. The information provided in the article aligns with my comprehensive understanding of the subject, and I can further elucidate the concepts discussed.
The article traces the transition in stocking manufacturing technology, detailing the shift from seamed stockings, known as 'Fully Fashioned Stockings,' to the advent of circular knitting machines in the 1950s, leading to the production of seamless stockings by the mid-1960s. This evolution in technology is crucial to understanding the broader context of the hosiery industry.
The mention of the Reading machines, weighing 30 tons and capable of producing 30 pairs per hour, underscores the sheer magnitude of these early manufacturing processes. The term 'Fully Fashioned Stockings' itself reflects the bespoke nature of these stockings, tailored to fit the leg precisely, contributing to their inherent beauty.
The article delves into the economic considerations that prompted manufacturers to seek cheaper and more efficient ways to produce stockings, ultimately leading to the rise of circular knitting machines. This technological shift not only marked a change in production methods but also influenced the aesthetics of stockings, with seamless options becoming more popular.
The continuity of the Fully Fashioned Stockings tradition is highlighted, emphasizing that a select few factories, including those using traditional Reading machines in the north of England, still produce these artisan nylons. This information aligns with my knowledge of the industry's niche production and the limited availability of genuine Fully Fashioned Stockings.
The article also touches upon the enduring appeal of 1950s style, leading to the development of faux seamed stockings by various hosiery and lingerie brands. The resurgence of interest in retro fashion, evident in events like the Goodwood Revival, has contributed to the sustained popularity of seamed stockings.
What sets genuine Fully Fashioned Stockings apart from modern reproductions is detailed, providing valuable insights for stocking aficionados. The mention of picot lines, created by the Reading knitting machine to fashion the leg, and the finishing loop on the welt further distinguishes authentic stockings from imitations.
In conclusion, the article provides a comprehensive overview of the evolution of stocking manufacturing, the impact of technological advancements, and the enduring appeal of Fully Fashioned Stockings. The inclusion of specific details, such as the traditional production methods used by What Katie Did and the distinguishing features of genuine stockings, adds depth to the narrative and aligns with my extensive expertise in the field.
