Why Do Some Fashion Burn Unsold Clothes?- Good On You (2024)

Words: Solene Rauturier

Category: In the Know

Published: 22 Apr 2022

We explore the reasons behind the fashion industry’s dirty but not-so-secret practice of destroying unsold inventory. Banning or pledging to stop the destruction of items in good condition is not enough, and the whole system needs to be redesigned to create less waste overall. Here’s why some brands burn unsold clothes.

An inherently unsustainable system

It’s no secret that the fashion industry produces way more than we’ll ever need. Fashion Revolution revealed that the number of garments produced annually has doubled since 2000 and exceeded 100 billion for the first time in 2014.

Why is that? With the advent of fast fashion, retailers started producing clothes at breakneck speed to get the newest styles on the market as fast as possible. The recent example of SHEIN, which may have added up to 314,877 new items to its US website since the beginning of the year, is the most poignant.

Sadly, every season about 30% of the clothes produced are never sold. So to make space for shinier items, that unsold stock has to go somewhere. But where?

Going up in flames

In 2017, it was revealed that H&M had been burning 12 tons of unsold clothing every year since 2013.

H&M isn’t the only culprit, and stories like this have revealed destroying—and especially burning—unsold stock is common practice in the fashion industry. Years before this story, the New York Times revealed it had found bags of H&M and Walmart clothing that had been slashed through, possibly to prevent them from being resold or returned for cash.

Where there is smoke, there is fire, and unfortunately, even luxury brands have been found guilty of destroying goods. In July 2018, Burberry reportedly burned unsold stock worth millions of dollars. In its annual report, the brand acknowledged that it had destroyed unsold goods worth up to £28.6 million, or US$37 million. Louis Vuitton, Coach, Michael Kors, and Juicy Couture have also been tied to this practice.

Burning stock is said to be the most cost-effective way for luxury brands to protect exclusivity and avoid devaluing their image. Luxury fashion is a status symbol, so burning excess inventory—as opposed to selling it at a discount—maintains the brand’s value and sense of exclusivity.

Sadly, every season about 30% of the clothes produced are never sold. So to make space for shinier items, that unsold stock has to go somewhere.

Many brands are also afraid of the “grey market” where genuine designer goods are bought cheaply and resold by others. In one case, Richemont, the parent company of fine watch brands such as Cartier and Montblanc, was caught up in controversy after it destroyed more than £400 million worth of designer timepieces in a bid to stop them from being sold by unauthorised vendors.

Luxury brands may also have a financial incentive to destroy unsold stock. For example, brands have to pay all sorts of taxes and charges to import goods into the USA. But if the goods are unsold, and the brand exports them again or destroys them under US customs supervision, they can recover up to 99% of the taxes and charges they paid in a process known as “drawback”. In the end, it can be cheaper (and entirely legal) for brands to destroy excess products rather than spend resources finding ways to repurpose or recycle them.

According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, every second, the equivalent of a rubbish truckload of clothes is burnt or buried in landfill. But it’s hard to know exactly how much of it is unsold stock.

What’s the environmental impact of destroying stock?

When brands are accused of burning unsold stock, they often highlight that the energy generated from burning these products was captured, making it “environmentally friendly”. Really?

According to a report on sustainability and the fashion industry from the UK Parliament in February 2019, while burning unsold inventory might help recover some energy, it multiplies the actual climate impact of the products. When burning clothes, carbon dioxide and other gases are released into the atmosphere, contributing to global warming and harming our health. The truth is, the energy recouped by burning goods is often nearly not enough to balance the energy required to produce the garments in the first place.

The energy recouped by burning goods is often nearly not enough to balance the energy required to produce the garments in the first place.

Plus, a lot of clothing these days is made of plastic, and the incineration of these clothes may release plastic microfibres into the atmosphere. Even if clothes aren’t burned and are “simply” dumped in landfills, they take years to decompose. And landfills are said to be the third-largest source of methane emissions in the US.

“But why don’t they recycle the clothes?” you might ask. Well, contrary to popular belief, many of our clothes aren’t recyclable. The issue often stems from the fact that most of our clothing is made from a blend of natural and synthetic fibres that are difficult to separate. This, combined with the lack of reliable, large-scale fabric recycling technology means that disposed clothes often end up in landfills. In the US, only 13.6% of clothes and shoes thrown away are recycled, and just 12% of the material used for clothing ends up being recycled. This 12% will likely be shredded and used as furniture stuffing or made into insulation or cleaning cloths, as shown in the short documentary “Unravel: The final resting place of your cast-off clothing“. Less than 1% of what is collected will be used to make new clothing.

Will brands ever stop burning unsold clothes?

Stories like Burberry’s and H&M’s have shocked shoppers around the globe, and the idea of a big pile of perfectly good items going up in flames left all of us stunned.

As a result, some brands have taken measures to reduce waste and have pledged to stop destroying unsaleable goods. But this is not enough.

Even with new groundbreaking legislation, as long as big fashion brands keep producing at a dangerously fast rate, we're in big trouble.

The issue comes from the traditional linear, take-make-waste model, where there’s only one way out for the tons of clothes produced each year. And even with new groundbreaking legislation, such as France’s law prohibiting the destruction of unsold goods, as long as big fashion brands keep producing at a dangerously fast rate, we’re in big trouble. There needs to be a shift to a more circular system that gives value to recycled and reclaimed goods where the focus is on the longevity and life cycle of our possessions.

Luckily, we’re seeing more and more sustainable brands moving towards circularity and implementing solutions to reuse waste, such as using deadstock fabric. But the burden of change can’t fall solely on small sustainable labels. Change needs to be systemic, and it needs to happen at every stage of a garment’s lifecycle—starting with major fashion players producing less.

What can we do to help?

Consumers also play a key role in reducing waste in the fashion industry. Here are some key actions you can take to align with circular fashion and reduce waste in the industry:

  • Know about the brands you buy by using resources such as Good On You
  • Support sustainable and ethical fashion
  • Live by the five R’s of fashion
  • Shop second hand where possible, or consider renting for your next event
  • Host and attend clothes swaps
  • Ask “What are the alternatives?” before throwing away used clothing

Editor's note

Feature image via Unsplash. Good On You publishes the world’s most comprehensive ratings of fashion brands’ impact on people, the planet, and animals. Use our directoryto search thousands of rated brands. We may earn a commission on sales with top-rated partners made using our offer codes or affiliate links.

Why Do Some Fashion Burn Unsold Clothes?- Good On You (2024)

FAQs

Is it good to burn old clothes? ›

But incineration has some very negative consequences. Burning clothes of course releases carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases into the atmosphere, which exacerbates global warming.

What do fast fashion brands do with unsold clothes? ›

A wide range of clothing brands have been caught throwing out unsold clothing over the years. Often this clothing is destroyed before it is tossed so that it cannot be salvaged by dumpster divers. Photo by thinkretail / Flickr. Viewers often express shock about the waste in the comments.

Why do companies destroy unsold products? ›

According to Forbes, the mass incineration of unsold goods is a simple way to prevent counterfeiting. Nevertheless, many might view this practice as a way for luxury brands to ensure that only affluent of prestigious customers can afford their products.

What happens to all of the unsold clothes? ›

Many shops sell it to discount stores like TK Maxx, or online discounters like the Outnet. Others launch periodic online sales of what needs to go, or have their own outlet stores that sell last season's merchandise at a discount. What happens to unsold clothes in other circ*mstances is they're donated to foundations.

Why you shouldn't throw away your clothes? ›

The majority of fashion waste ends up in landfills

While decomposing, clothes emit greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide (CO2) and Methane gas (CH4), a substance that is is 28 times higher than CO2 in terms of emissions. This is a major global warming problem. Clothes do not biodegrade while in a landfill.

What happens to unsold H&M clothes? ›

What does H&M do with its unsold merchandise? A team of journalists from the Danish program Operation X investigated this question for several months and recently revealed that the Swedish brand has been burning up to 12 tonnes of clothing a year since 2013.

What does Walmart do with unsold merchandise? ›

Walmart Liquidation Auctions allows resellers to bid on excess inventory, store returns, and refurbished bulk lots directly from Walmart. Lots range in size from single pallets up to truckloads of excess inventory, and typically sell at a fraction of retail MSRP.

Why does Gucci burn their unsold merchandise? ›

Burning stock is said to be the most cost-effective way for luxury brands to protect exclusivity and avoid devaluing their image. Luxury fashion is a status symbol, so burning excess inventory—as opposed to selling it at a discount—maintains the brand's value and sense of exclusivity.

Do companies throw away returned clothes? ›

infamous for its destruction of returned garments. Big brands like H&M and Burberry have admitted to burning hundreds of millions of dollars worth of their products. Many brands—especially luxury ones—would rather toss out their products than resell them at a lower price at the risk of tarnishing their image.

What does Nike do with unsold products? ›

Turns out, sneakers that have been returned to Nike aren't being resold. Instead, they have ended up in a recycling plant, where they are shredded—or “downcycled”—into smaller pieces that can be used as materials that partially make up new goods.

What does Amazon do with unsold? ›

Amazon will let you create a Removal Order for any inventory that you want removed from their Fulfillment Centers. When you're creating a Removal Order, you'll have two options: Return or Destroy/Dispose. Amazon will destroy your inventory and dispose of it for a very small fee.

Does TJ Maxx throw away clothes? ›

Coach, CVS, TJ Maxx, HomeGoods and Party City have all been criticized for throwing away or destroying merchandise.

What is the dark side to fast fashion? ›

The pressure to reduce costs and speed up production time means environmental corners are more likely to be cut. Fast fashion's negative impact includes its use of cheap, toxic textile dyes—making the fashion industry the one of the largest polluters of clean water globally, right up there with agriculture.

Which famous company destroys its unsold products? ›

In fact, Amazon also had to face the backlash in Germany for the tons of returned items destroyed by it that including mattresses, washing machines, cellphones, etc.

What is the dark side of the fashion world? ›

More specifically, the social (macro and micro-scale) and environmental harms of fast fashion such as pollution, excessive water waste, poor working conditions and wages for workers, gender violence, overconsumption, and individuals' mental health and beliefs.

How many times should you wear an item of clothing before discarding? ›

How many times should you wear an item of clothing? To reduce your CO2 emissions and waste, you should aim to wear each item of clothing at least 30 times as suggested by the #30WearsChallenge. However, most low-quality fast fashion garments might not even last that long.

What clothes do not protect us from? ›

Clothes do not protect us from blood pressure. We need medicines or low sodium diet to protect us from blood pressure. Clothes protect us from heat, cold, dust and germs.

What clothes should you keep or throw away? ›

Deciding What to Keep

Traditionally, you'll want three piles – keep, donate, and trash. Clothing that's ripped, torn, spotted with bleach stains, or otherwise unwearable should go straight in the trash pile. Your staple pieces that get constant use should go in the “keep” pile.

What does Target do with unsold items? ›

According to Target staffers who post on Reddit, unsold perishable food and pet food from Target are donated to local charities. Anything with a battery is disposed of in an “environmentally sustainable” way.

What does Burberry do with unsold inventory? ›

"The growing amount of overstock points to overproduction, and instead of slowing down their production, they incinerate perfectly good clothes and products. "It's a dirty secret of the fashion industry. Burberry is just the tip of the iceberg," she said.

What do retail stores do with unsold items? ›

Some companies hold yard sales of excess inventory and donate the proceeds to charity. This will give you a tax write off that can actually save you more money than you would have made by holding a discount sale or making a deal with an inventory liquidator.

Where does TJ Maxx get their merchandise? ›

We buy from all kinds of vendors: big brand names to boutique, designer labels, as well as up-and-coming labels and exciting gems from around the globe. We also have some merchandise manufactured for us to bring our customers exceptional fashion and quality at an amazing price.

What items Cannot be returned at Walmart? ›

13 Items Walmart Won't Let You Return
  • Firearms and ammunition. Walmart's return policy does not include any firearms or ammunition for firearms sold by the store. ...
  • Prescription medications. ...
  • Gas-powered vehicles. ...
  • Gift cards. ...
  • Diabetic supplies. ...
  • Test kits. ...
  • Used tires. ...
  • Trading cards.
Jul 10, 2022

Is returning used merchandise illegal? ›

Can you be arrested for returning a used item of clothing to a store? The short answer is – yes, it is possible.

Is it true that Louis Vuitton burns all their unsold bags? ›

Every year, Louis Vuitton burns every unsold product to maintain exclusivity and high prices. Even though there are three main reasons for this practice, it still seems odd to destroy so many products. Louis Vuitton products must continue to be rare and desired.

Why does Louis Vuitton burn unsold stock? ›

The main reason Louis Vuitton destroys unsold merchandise every year is to prevent price reductions and theft.

Does Chanel burn their unsold merchandise? ›

Some brands do sample sales, but companies like Louis Vuitton and Chanel just incinerate their samples. I remember when Parsons was doing a student project in 2009, and Louis Vuitton supplied samples that were going to be incinerated.

Where does Costco sell their returned items? ›

Unused Returns

For example, outdoor furniture, electronics, or other home goods are put in a clearance section and sold at a discounted price. However, Costco cannot place the item back on the sales floor if opened or used. Such products go directly to B-stock liquidation actions.

Does Amazon throw away clothing returns? ›

Once you have returned a product to Amazon, it processes it and sells it to Amazon warehouses or liquidation retailers. Some returns make their way back to Amazon. However, most are put on pallets and sold in bulk to liquidation companies.

Do stores keep track of your returns? ›

Many unhappy returns. Shoppers and consumer advocates are fuming at major retailers such as Victoria's Secret, JCPenney, and Best Buy for keeping a secret database on customers that determines who should be banned from making returns.

Does Gucci burn bags? ›

Gucci and Moncler — two brands that refrain from participating heavily in the end-of-season sales cycle — do not currently burn unsold stock, although representatives from the company declined to comment on the record about this.

Why do stores destroy merchandise? ›

But many items aren't worth shipping back, so the stores and suppliers have a wasteful but effective arrangement: the stores simply tell the suppliers how many of each item didn't sell, the suppliers give the stores credit for them, and the stores must destroy them.

What happens to shoes that aren't worn? ›

If you keep a pair of sneakers deadstock in their box for too long, the glue will dry up and the aging process of the shoe actually accelerates when compared to a shoe that has been worn every once in a while.

Where to buy Amazon pallet returns? ›

The best way to buy Amazon return pallets is directly through Amazon or through a liquidation company like Bulq or Liquidation.com. The more you are willing to buy, the cheaper the cost. Typically liquidated items from Amazon are sold either by the pallet or the truckload.

What does Amazon pay for stolen packages? ›

The A to Z Guarantee protects purchases sold or fulfilled by third-party sellers. This guarantee covers up to $2500 in purchases on eligible goods. If a customer hasn't received their goods, they'll receive a refund for the cost by submitting an Amazon Stolen Package Claim.

Does Amazon investigate lost items? ›

In most cases, the seller will investigate the missing package or send a new item. But if the seller doesn't respond within 24 hours, you can file a claim with Amazon.

What to do with really old clothes that Cannot be donated? ›

Items that aren't suitable for reuse or donating to charity can be recycled and repurposed into new items. Make sure old clothes and shoes are disposed of at recycling points rather than being put into the bin and destined for landfill. You can use our locator to find a clothing recycling bank near you.

Where are the biggest clothing landfills? ›

Some 59,000 tonnes of clothing arrive each year at the Iquique port in the Alto Hospicio free zone in northern Chile. Clothing merchants from the capital Santiago, 1,800km (1,100 miles) to the south, buy some, while much is smuggled out to other Latin American countries.

What does a blue tag at T.J. Maxx mean? ›

At T.J. Maxx and Marshalls stores, however, you'll also come across yellow tags that flag final clearance prices and blue tags that let you know the item has a coordinating piece (like a matching skirt to go with a blouse). And if you come across a purple tag, you've found a designer item at T.J.

Is fast fashion good for the poor? ›

Fast fashion retailers are motivated by how much profit they can turn, and by paying so little in wages, not only is the profit margin increased, the workers are also trapped in a cycle of poverty.

Is fast fashion human trafficking? ›

Fast fashion and human trafficking are deeply intertwined. The link between fast fashion and trafficking is that trafficking is largely what allows fast fashion to be so affordable and immediate.

Why are black clothes more attractive? ›

Often, black is perceived as a sleek and flattering color that not only minimizes the effort involved in selecting outfits, but, also minimizes the perception of the mass of the body.

What happens to all the unsold clothes? ›

Secondhand clothes that don't sell in the US or go into textile recycling are often exported. Roughly 700,000 tons of used clothing gets sent to other countries annually, reportedly creating a big market and contributing to job growth.

What happens to unsold fast fashion? ›

These items are typically brand new, with tags still attached, or in excellent condition. A wide range of clothing brands have been caught throwing out unsold clothing over the years. Often this clothing is destroyed before it is tossed so that it cannot be salvaged by dumpster divers.

Why is the fashion industry so toxic? ›

The toxic clothing made in garment factories – also known as sweatshops – has a fast turnaround time which often involves thousands of toxic substances, heavy metals, and synthetic dyes in the process. Fast fashion is responsible for most toxic clothing around the globe.

What is toxic fashion? ›

20% of industrial pollution comes from the textile manufacturing process. Over 8,000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into clothing. Workers come in direct contact with these chemicals—often without adequate safety protections—and are at risk of contracting deadly diseases.

What is the biggest problem in fashion? ›

Supply chain bottlenecks

Combined, these issues push up the cost of manufacturing and distribution, impacting the profitability of many apparel brands. According to McKinsey, 15% of industry leaders fear margins & profitability will pose one of the greatest threats to the fashion industry in 2023.

What happens when clothes are burned? ›

When burning clothes, carbon dioxide and other gases are released into the atmosphere, contributing to global warming and harming our health. The truth is, the energy recouped by burning goods is often nearly not enough to balance the energy required to produce the garments in the first place.

What happens if you burn fabric? ›

The fabric recoils slightly as it burns, making a gentle hissing sound and smelling like burnt hair. The flame burns slowly and goes out, leaving soft beads that are easily crushed between the fingers. This shows a swatch of wool being burned.

How do you throw away clothes? ›

Take to your local recycling facility (the dump)

Your local dump will have facilities for all kinds of waste and recycling. It will also have a section for textile recycling. Bag it up and make sure you label it clearly so it doesn't accidentally go into household waste (which will go to landfill).

What do you do with old clothes that Cannot be donated? ›

Items that aren't suitable for reuse or donating to charity can be recycled and repurposed into new items. Make sure old clothes and shoes are disposed of at recycling points rather than being put into the bin and destined for landfill. You can use our locator to find a clothing recycling bank near you.

What clothing items should not be donated? ›

Specifically, you want to avoid any clothes that simply aren't usable anymore. Large stains, big rips, tears, holes, missing buttons—all of these things make clothing much less attractive as a donation option. Consider recycling these clothes instead, as they won't be of much use to someone who wants to wear them.

Is it better to burn clothes or throw them away? ›

Incineration is better than landfill.

There the natural fabrics contribute to methane production which is a powerful greenhouse gas. The synthetics contribute to plastics pollution: fashion accounts for up to 35 per cent of microplastic flows into the ocean.

What do luxury brands do with returned items? ›

infamous for its destruction of returned garments. Big brands like H&M and Burberry have admitted to burning hundreds of millions of dollars worth of their products. Many brands—especially luxury ones—would rather toss out their products than resell them at a lower price at the risk of tarnishing their image.

Why do people burn their clothes? ›

Destroying clothing is a common practice amongst fashion merchandisers in order to keep the price of goods high and the availability of products low. We examine the improper disposal of deadstock when luxury and fast-fashion marketers slash and burn their unsold goods.

Is burning fabric toxic? ›

Fire smoke presents a complicated mixture of toxic chemicals, some of which are persistent and some of which are known carcinogens or acute skin hazards. Many of these chemicals will become entrained within the clothing materials or penetrate the clothing and get onto your skin.

Is 100% polyester fire retardant? ›

Polyester is inherently flame retardant, and therefore doesn't flare up when applied to various tests. Any amount of heat delivered within a long enough time interval will have no impact on the fabrics' integrity while a limited amount of heat delivered within short enough time interval may ignite or melt the fabric.

How many clothes does a woman need? ›

The researchers found that a “sufficient” wardrobe consists of 74 garments and 20 outfits in total. As an example, they've suggested six outfits for work, three outfits for home wear, three outfits for sports, two outfits for festive occasions, plus four outdoor jackets and trousers or skirts.

How many clothes does the average person throw away? ›

85% Of Our Clothes End Up In Landfills Or Burned

Furthermore, it is estimated that the average American throws away about 37kg/81 pounds of clothes every year– that's the weight of an 11-year-old child!

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