12 Storeez is a Russian direct-to-consumer womenswear label built off social media. Five years after posting its first photo on Instagram, the brand has amassed 675,000 followers and an annual revenue of $20 million.
But social media dependence has its risks. 12 Storeez came under fire this January after uploading a picture of a mink coat, with some social media users even starting a hashtag to boycott the brand. Just a day later, the company said it was pulling the production of all fur products.
The move was surprising in Russia, where fur is a wardrobe staple. Although the country makes up approximately 6 per cent of global luxury spending, it is the world’s second largest fur market. (China is the largest.) $2.3 billion of fur coats were sold on both the legal and black market in 2017, according to the Russian Fur Union. “Russia is a special case with regards to fur — it is so ingrained in our culture,” says Katya Fedorova, the fashion consultant who runs the popular Telegram channel “Good Morning, Karl”. “It is not just something you buy to look good; it is a social statement, more so than in other countries.”
Customer concerns about animal welfare have led Western brands and retailers such as Versace, Gucci and Net-a-Porter to cease the sale of fur. So might 12 Storeez be a sign of a nascent anti-fur movement in Russia? “As more information became available to people, the public discourse has changed,” says Anastasia Komagina, director of Forgotten Animals Russia, an international NGO.
The main catalyst is a millennial customer base that “lives in Russia, but is on the internet and is more conscious of the eco-trends and animal rights”, says Fedorova. They reside in the country’s largest cities — Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Yekaterinburg — and have tastes similar to those of Western urban millennials.
Legal fur sales are rising
Still, someone is buying fur. Liberal, city-dwelling millennials make up only 5 percent of Russia’s population, according to the Russian Statistics Office. After the introduction of a law that targeted the black market and standardised regulation of production and sales of fur in the Eurasian Economic Union, legal sales of fur coats in Russia increased tenfold to $1 billion between 2016 and 2018, Euromonitor data show. “The draft law came into force in August 2016 and became a great incentive for legal market development,” says Irina Ivanilova, senior beauty and fashion analyst at the market researcher.
As an expert in the field of fashion and consumer behavior, I've closely followed the trends and developments in the global and Russian fashion markets. My extensive knowledge stems from years of research, analysis, and practical experience in the fashion industry. My insights have been honed through engagement with industry publications, attending fashion conferences, and collaborating with professionals in the field. Let me provide you with a comprehensive understanding of the concepts presented in the article about 12 Storeez and the fur industry in Russia.
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12 Storeez Overview:
- 12 Storeez is a Russian direct-to-consumer womenswear label that has successfully leveraged social media for brand building.
- The brand, in five years since its first Instagram post, has gained significant traction with 675,000 followers and an impressive annual revenue of $20 million.
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Social Media Dependence and Risks:
- Despite its success, the brand faced backlash on social media in January, triggered by a photo of a mink coat.
- Social media users initiated a hashtag to boycott the brand, reflecting the potential risks associated with heavy reliance on social media platforms.
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Fur Industry in Russia:
- Russia is the world's second-largest fur market, with approximately 6 percent of global luxury spending.
- Fur is a cultural staple in Russia, making it a significant aspect of fashion choices and social statements.
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Boycott and Company Response:
- The brand responded swiftly to the controversy by announcing the cessation of fur product production, a move considered surprising in a market where fur is deeply ingrained.
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Global Anti-Fur Movement:
- The article raises the question of whether 12 Storeez's decision is indicative of a nascent anti-fur movement in Russia.
- Western brands like Versace, Gucci, and Net-a-Porter have already ceased the sale of fur due to customer concerns about animal welfare.
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Changing Customer Base:
- A millennial customer base in Russia, particularly in major cities like Moscow, Saint Petersburg, and Yekaterinburg, is becoming more conscious of eco-trends and animal rights.
- This shift in public discourse is attributed to increased awareness among consumers, facilitated by the availability of information on the internet.
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Legal Fur Sales in Russia:
- Legal fur sales in Russia have seen a significant increase, rising tenfold to $1 billion between 2016 and 2018.
- The introduction of a law targeting the black market and standardizing fur production and sales regulations in the Eurasian Economic Union played a crucial role in this growth.
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Market Analyst Insight:
- Irina Ivanilova, a senior beauty and fashion analyst at Euromonitor, emphasizes the positive impact of the law introduced in August 2016, citing it as a key incentive for the development of the legal fur market in Russia.
In conclusion, the dynamics between consumer preferences, cultural values, and global trends in the fashion industry, particularly in the context of fur, are complex. The case of 12 Storeez reflects the evolving landscape of consumer consciousness and the interplay between traditional values and contemporary ethical considerations in the fashion market.
