Shoulder Pads - The Thin and Thick of It - by Glenda
Shoulder pads come in many shape and colors. They can be covered or uncovered. You can buy them premade or make them yourself. Covered shoulder pads are most often used in unlined jackets or shirts. Plain shoulder pads are mostly used in lined coats and jackets.
So why use shoulder pads? Many reasons: To remove wrinkles from your garment, balance shoulder height, to smooth out boney shoulders, or to give your jacket or blouse a professional or expensive look.
The type of shoulder pads used would depend on the type of sleeve that the garment has. The most common types of shoulder pads are dolman, raglan, and set in sleeves. They come in they come in thickness of 1/4 inch (.3 cm) to 1 inch (2.5 cm) on the average.
Doing a tailored jacket with shoulder pads is made easy with PMB. Have you ever bought a commercial pattern and the instructions say that you need 1/2 inch shoulder pads only to find out while constructing your garment that you really need 1 inch shoulder pads? That is because your shoulder slope is different from the standard use by the commercial pattern.
PMB gives you control of this situation and it is very simple to do. If you go to Settings in PatternMaster while planning your garment, you can choose what size shoulder pads you would like to use and the program will draft the patterns accordingly.
My favorite size shoulder pad size is 5/8 inches. I have sloping shoulders and I like my jackets to look more like I have squarer shoulders. People who have less slope would want to use a thinner shoulder pad.
Sometimes one shoulder might be slightly lower than the other shoulder which is my situation. One solution for this is to use two different size shoulder pads. In the jacket on the right I used a 5/8 inch shoulder pad a 1/4 inch shoulder pad that I whip stitched together before attaching. The style was for a set in sleeve.
For a blouse I would choose a 1/4 inch shoulder pad, depending on the weight of the fabric I would consider a thin set in shoulder pad or a molded shoulder pad. Again, the choice is a combination of personal preference, your shoulder slope, the type of garment you are making, and the drape of the fabric.
To see Glenda's Chanel inspired jacket go to... Chanel Inspired Jacket
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As someone deeply familiar with the world of sewing, tailoring, and garment construction, I can confidently attest to the significance and versatility of shoulder pads in enhancing the fit, appearance, and overall aesthetics of garments.
Understanding Shoulder Pads in Garment Construction
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Varieties of Shoulder Pads:
- Shapes and Colors: Shoulder pads indeed come in various shapes and colors to cater to different garment styles and preferences.
- Covered vs. Uncovered: Covered shoulder pads are typically used for unlined jackets or shirts, providing a clean finish, while plain shoulder pads are more suitable for lined coats and jackets.
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Purpose of Shoulder Pads:
- Wrinkle Removal: They help in eliminating wrinkles from garments, ensuring a smooth appearance.
- Balance and Structure: Shoulder pads balance out uneven shoulders, provide structure, and can redefine the silhouette of a garment.
- Professional Look: Adding shoulder pads can elevate the overall appearance of a jacket or blouse, giving it a more tailored and expensive look.
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Types of Sleeves and Corresponding Shoulder Pads:
- Dolman, Raglan, and Set-In Sleeves: Different sleeve types necessitate varied shoulder pad shapes and sizes to ensure a seamless fit and appearance.
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Thickness and Size:
- Shoulder pads come in a range of thicknesses, typically between 1/4 inch (.3 cm) to 1 inch (2.5 cm). The optimal size often depends on individual preferences, shoulder slope, and the type of garment being constructed.
- For instance, while Glenda prefers a 5/8-inch shoulder pad to achieve a particular look, others might opt for thinner pads based on their shoulder structure and desired outcome.
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Tailoring Challenges and Solutions:
- Commercial Patterns vs. Individual Body Shapes: A common challenge faced by many is the discrepancy between commercial patterns and individual body shapes, especially concerning shoulder slope. Solutions like PatternMaster by PMB offer customization options, enabling sewers to adjust shoulder pad sizes according to their unique requirements.
- Mismatched Shoulders: In cases where one shoulder is slightly lower than the other, using two different-sized shoulder pads can offer a balanced and tailored appearance, as demonstrated by combining a 5/8-inch and a 1/4-inch shoulder pad.
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Selection Based on Fabric and Preference:
- The choice of shoulder pad thickness also depends on the weight and drape of the fabric. While a 1/4-inch pad might be suitable for lighter blouses, a thicker pad may be preferred for structured jackets.
- Ultimately, the decision rests on a combination of personal preference, garment type, fabric characteristics, and individual body shape.
In summary, shoulder pads play a pivotal role in garment construction and tailoring, offering solutions to various fit and aesthetic challenges. By understanding their types, purposes, and customization options, individuals can achieve desired results, ensuring garments not only fit well but also exude style and professionalism.
