A Guide to the Undying World of Raw Denim (2024)

After years of resisting the Holy Grail of denim heads, maybe you want to give raw a whirl. Raw denim is not washed (one of the last steps in manufacturing jeans), meaning the dye is still its original form. It'll be up to you to break the jeans down the way you want them; we're talking the fade, markings and creases—every detail is 100% personalized. And, if properly cared for, raw denim can easily last years—double-digit years. So if you're going for it, here's what you have to know.

Let's Talk About Shrinkage

Since raw denim is unwashed, it will shrink. But there's a process called "sanforization" that some manufactures apply to reduce shrinking. After the fabric comes off the loom, it is fed through a sanforization machine that uses a series of rollers, heat and moisture to stretch, shrink and stabilize the denim. This is why sanforized jeans are considered to be "pre-shrunk." Shrinkage with sanforized denim is limited to less than 1%, while unsanforized denim could shrink up to one or two sizes. (Some brands also offer "one-wash" jeans that have already been washed and will not shrink as much.)

Sanforized jeans, $230, available at Rogue Territory Stealth SK

Raw denim enthusiasts have different opinions on which is better, and it's really a personal decision. Unsanforized denim is a great choice if you're looking for a more unique and distinctive fabric, but because the jeans could shrink significantly, it can be tricky to get the right fit. If you're going raw for the first time, you may want to consider sanforized denim to protect your investment (and other sensitive areas).

Maximizing Comfort

Obviously you want to be comfortable in your raw jeans, which tend to have ghost-pant tendencies (or the ability to stand up on their own). Check the label for yarn and weight. Many of the cheaper raw denims are made from open-end yarn, which is not as durable as ring-spun yarn. Ring-spun and double ring-spun yarn result in a much stronger denim that's also softer—plus, it fades great, leaving you with an awesome vintage look.

Standard American Made Raw Denim Jeans, $124, available at Williamsburg Garment Company

Next up in your label check is the weight, which will determine how comfortable your jeans feel and how they'll fade. Raw denim under 12 ounces is the easiest to break in and wear, but the fade will be a bit limited compared with heavier styles. Your sweet spot will be 12 to 16 ounces. Anything above 16 ounces requires a serious time commitment and slight insanity. Considering that denim this heavy can stand up on its own, it's easy to see why breaking these heavy jeans in (and even getting them on) won't be an easy process.

The last thing to note when shopping for your raw denim is "selvedge." You'll see this word splashed on store displays, but don't be surprised when the salesperson can't define it. A selvedge is a self-finished edge of fabric that keeps the fabric from unraveling or fraying. Selvedge is a raw denim buzzword that's been used by higher-end brands to promote authenticity. See, the edges of the jeans are sewn on old-school shuttle looms rather than today's projectile looms. It's not an indicator of quality anymore, just a style preference if you cuff your jeans.

Non-selvedge jeans, $230, available at Rogue Territory Stealth SK

Selvedge jeans, $124, available at Williamsburg Garment Company

Size Matters

The key to purchasing the perfect size of raw denim is to be aware of how much they'll stretch. Before you shop, measure your waist, inseam and ideal leg opening and think about the style you're trying to achieve—if you plan to wear your jeans stacked or cuffed, it will affect the length you chose. Remember the denim will stretch about 3-5% or an inch to an inch and a half (if you haven't chosen a pre-shrunk version). You should be able to get into the jeans without too much of a fight and they should feel tighter on your waist than you're comfortable with (beauty is pain, my man). The fit should also be tighter around the butt and hips, but not as much as the waist.

The UB201 Tapered Fit Indigo Selvedge, $82, available at The Unbranded Company

Have your measurements but not sure where to start? Here are our five favorite raw styles:

Unbranded 201

At just $82, these jeans are a great choice for a raw beginner who also favors a classic indigo. The 201 is Unbranded's tapered fit that's roomier through the seat and tapers down to a narrow leg opening. $82, available at theunbrandedbrand.com

Levi's 501 STF

Unsanforized denim can also be referred to as "shrink-to-fit"or STF, which is how Levi's labels its unsanforized jeans. With a ride range of colors, styles and price points, you're sure to find the right raw for your style. Plus, you can never really go wrong with the house that built the blue jean. From $68 to $198, available at Levi.com

Hope Street by Williamsburg Garments Company

The first model of the company's Made in USA collection, Hope Street skinny jeans feature unique and patriotic details such as American flag pocket print and are reasonably priced. And you know, America. $124, available at Williamsburg Garments Company

Rag & Bone Raw Jeans

We like Rag & Bone's unpretentious take on raw denim. From skinny leg to classic straight leg, you're sure to find the right fit for your style. And if you're truly looking for an everyday jean, you can't go wrong with the dark vintage hue. $210 - $255, available at Rag & Bone

Stealth SK by Rogue Territory

From the murdered out black to the gradually tapered leg, these jeans are pure style for serious dudes. Just add a blazer or a classic white tee and you're good to go. $230, available at Rogue Territory

Breaking Raw. Tread Lightly.

Raw enthusiasts will have different opinions when it comes to breaking in and washing raw denim—some will say wash when it becomes necessary and others will preach to never, ever wash your raw denim under any circ*mstances. We believe there's a happy medium, but it's going to get weird.

Prior to wearing your new jeans for the first time, you need to soak them. Soaking will remove starch and chemicals, making the fabric softer and help it last longer. (Make sure you know if your raw denim is sanforized or unsanforized. If sanforized or "one-wash" you won't need to soak them.)

Step One: Fill your bathtub with about five inches of hot water. The hotter the water, the more the color will fade.

Step Two: Put on your jeans—it's bath time! Yep, that's right. Wearing the jeans in the tub will help the fabric mold to your body, creating the perfect fit. Make sure your legs are submerged and try not to move too much. Just sit back, relax and enjoy the next one to two hours. Rubber ducky is optional.

Step Three: Carefully remove the jeans and hang them to dry. Since the denim has created a mold of your body they will most likely stand up on their own. Make sure you place them somewhere that won't freak out your girlfriend. You don't want her stumbling across ghost-like pants in the middle of the night.

Step Four: To starch or not to starch? The initial starch that was on your new denim was removed during your bath time. Some guys like to add the starch back to help with fading and getting the right creases, but it will also add back stiffness. If that works for you, combine two teaspoons of cornstarch and four cups of water in a spray bottle and spray the dry denim (maintaining a distance of about ten inches) until damp. Hang again to dry.

Jump Around

Now that you've soaked and dried your jeans, they're ready for action. Remember that raw denim is going to be stiff for some time and it could take months to achieve a comfortable, everyday jean. To kick start the process, wear your news jeans for at least a few hours each day. Ride a bike, do lunges or jumping jacks to stretch them out. Just keep the exercise low intensity to avoid blowing out your crotch (er…the jean area around your crotch—but keep it safe both ways and stretch before any physical activity). You can even sleep in your jeans but we only recommend doing this if you're cool with potentially running your sheets.

Which brings us to the next step in breaking in raw denim: avoid the bleed. The biggest risk of raw denim is the amount the die with run, dying your hands, your furniture and those new sheets you just sprung on to impress your girlfriend (or that she demanded for any future sleepovers). Your best bet is to avoid contact with light surfaces—so stay off that white leather couch (actually, rethink the white leather while you're at it). Don't wear your new jeans on rainy days, skip the white sneakers and the high boots and try your best to keep your hands out of your pockets. Also, store your jeans away from other clothing items in your closet.

When to Wash

With all the jumping jacks and sleeping in your new denim, it's sure to get funky eventually. But do your absolute best to wait five months before washing your jeans. However, do not wait longer than a year—that's just nasty.

A lot can happen in the months you're waiting to wash—a smoky club, a bourbon stain, public transportation. To de-funk your denim, spray it with some Febreze and hang the jeans in fresh air or throw them in the freezer to kill the bacteria. The jury is still out on how effective freezing is so for a full-on stink situation, try doubling up on the Febreze before resorting to the spin cycle. For stains, try dabbing the spot with water. (Do NOT use soap or a stain remover as this may cause some of the die to bleed resulting in a very uncool faded spot.)

When the time comes for a proper wash, follow the instructions exactly and dry the jeans the same way you did after the initial soak. Try adding a cup or two of salt to help maintain a deep hue.

Going Raw Ain't a Sprint

It's a marathon—it can take up to six months to properly break in raw denim. Plus, as this guide shows, breaking them in properly requires a serious time commitment and things will pretty weird out of the gate. But a great pair of raw denim jeans will become a part of you, showcase your personal style and be the most comfortable thing you own. So stick with it—going raw has its rewards.

Styled by Mac Huelster; hair and makeup by Miguel Lledo for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics; modeled by Malcom Jackson for DNA at Urban Cowboy BnB