When you first slide your legs into a crisp pair of raw denim, you are taking your first steps on along journey. The first steps on this journey are slow and (to be frank) a little painful. To be fullyenjoyed, though, raw denim needs to go through this process. If we want to enjoy the fullbenefits of a beautifully faded pair, we can’t take a shortcut. Whether we’re on our first or ourfiftieth pair, we all must pass through these five stages when we’re breaking in a new pair ofraw denim.
The Hurdle (30-50 wears)
The first thing that those new to raw denim have to get their heads around is the fact that, withraw denim, comfort and beauty are not purchased—they are earned. This is most apparentwhen the pairs are brand new. They might be stiffer than everything you’ve ever worn before.
The tips of your fingers might be sore from struggling with the top button, and sliding yourhands in and out of your pockets will leave the backs of your hands feeling raw and chapped.
Every time you take your pair off at the end of the day, it will feel as though you’ve been in afight.
1 Month in these Double-Fronted 25oz Beasts Worn by Frederick Vande Weygaerde in Year 2 Indigo Invitational.
This is The Hurdle, and we cannot get to the next stages until we have cleared it. There are afew ways we can accelerate our progress through this stage. We can soak the denim beforewearing it, which helps get rid of some of the starch that contributes to the denim’s stiffness.This might mean sacrificing some of the more dramatic contrast fades, but a lot of faders swearby this method.
If you’re choosing to keep your jeans dry, the first month will be a struggle. Any activities thatforce the denim to flex and stretch will help you get up and over The Hurdle inside of this firstmonth. Hop on the bike and take your jeans for a long ride, take the stairs whenever possible,or simply do squats and deep knee bends to help you clear The Hurdle in a hurry.
The Long Straight (50-150 wears)
Not everybody clears The Hurdle, so if you make it this far, you can pat yourself on the back,but there’s still a lot of track ahead of you. When you reach the Long Straight, the jeans havestarted to relax around the waistband and behind the knees. We can slide our hands in and outof the pockets without wincing, and we can fasten the top button without a struggle. Putting onour jeans and taking them off is starting to become more of a pleasure than a pain.
After 4 Months, Frederick has Cleared that Hurdle and Jogging Down the Long Straight.
It’s during the Long Straight that we fully set our creases and really start to see fades emergingon our thighs, in the seat, and across the top block. Here’s the thing, though. This process isvery slow. The indigo chips off microscopic piece by microscopic piece, and it might feel asthough we’re marching in place.
We need to be patient, to stay the course with our pair, and we can’t rush them into the washin the hopes that the water will hurry the fades along. Unless you want those all-over washed-out vintage fades (a product of frequent washing), you should keep your jeans dry until the nextstage. Newbies tend to rush that first wash, and the disappointing results teach them just howimportant it is to run their jeans on that ragged edge for as long as possible before that firstwash.
If you spill something on your jeans, give them a spot clean with a damp cloth. If they get a littlemuddy, let them dry and then brush them off. If they start to smell a little sour, turn theminside out and hang or lay them in the sun. The UV bath is often enough to freshen them up andkeep them rolling towards the next stage.
The Big Reveal (150-250 wears)
This is by far the most exciting stage in the process. You’ve done the heavy lifting, clearing TheHurdle and jogging down that Long Straight, and now it’s time to reap your rewards with thefirst wash. A good rule of thumb is to hold off on that first wash until you’ve crossed the 150-wear line, but we like to push it just a little further than this, aiming for six months of wear.
Bythis point, the thighs should have what looks like a glossy topcoat that glints in the light atcertain angles.
6 Months in and Frederick Has Got His Pair Right Where He Wants Them.
Ride this glossy stage for a few weeks or even months, but not much longer than this. If youpush it too far, you’ll be looking at diminishing returns. The rough particles of dirt and dust thathave worked their way into the fibres will cause your jeans to rip and fray prematurely if left totheir own devices for too long. If small holes start to emerge in the crotch or on the creasesaround and behind the knees, it’s almost certainly time for that first wash.
Wash them inside out on your machine’s coldest setting, using a gentle and colour-safedetergent. Most importantly, make sure to turn off your machine’s spin cycle. The spin cycle willleave unwanted and unsightly vertical streaks in your denim.
They’ll come out of the machine dripping wet. Straighten them out and hang them to dry. Waituntil they’re bone dry to put them back on. The difference should be immediately obvious. Theglossy topcoat is gone, and the white core of the cotton yarns will have its turn to shine. Youshould be able to see sharp contrasts between faded and unfaded areas. They’re far from fullyfaded at this stage, but it should be abundantly clear where they’re heading.
Fade Town (250-350 wears)
By the time you’ve reached the city limits of Fade Town, you’ve spent 8-10 months in yourjeans. You have been through a lot together, and it shows. You’ll have pronounced fade lines inthe top block, behind the knees, and where your denim stacks up around your ankles. Thereshould also be significant lightening on the thighs, on the seat, and on the back of your calves.
After 8 Months, Frederick is Enjoying the Sun in Fade Town.
The progress is still slow and steady at this stage, but you can feel things starting to accelerate.
The faded areas are spreading, turning dark indigo into lighter shades of blue, and the creasesgrow more pronounced with each passing day.
With the fade patterns fully set, you can be a little more liberal with your wash schedule. Somefaders wash their pairs every six months or so, but waiting this long isn’t entirely necessary. Agood rule of thumb is to wash them whenever they got properly dirty. If that glossy topcoatcomes back, this is a good sign that they’re ready for another wash. If folks start complainingabout the smell, it’s definitely time to freshen them up. Use the same washing technique weoutlined above.
Denim Heaven (350+ wears)
At the centre of Fade Town, there’s a small square. This is Denim Heaven, and far too faders getthis far. The streets of Fade Town are lined with shops selling beautiful crisp pairs of raw denim,and, once you’ve been through the process, these new pairs are too tempting for new denimlovers to resist. They purchase two or three new pairs, and the pair that brought them to FadeTown falls to the bottom of a deep rotation.
After 11 Months Fredrick is Knocking on Denim Heaven’s Door.
We understand the appeal. We sell raw denim because we fell head over heels in love with theprocess, and some pairs are just too beautiful to resist. If you want to reach Denim Heaven,though, it won’t be with a half-dozen pairs of brand-new denim stuffed under each arm. Youneed to resist the pull of new pairs and dance with the one who brought you until you bothcollapse, sweaty and exhausted, on the floor.
This takes at least a full year of daily wear, and the pay-off makes all the time you have investedin your pair more than worthwhile. The denim is butter-soft and, in places, it might be paperthin. You can, if you like, extend the life of your jeans with careful repairs, turning your fullyfaded jeans into a masterpiece of your own making.
It’s only when we reach Denim Heaven that we can finally say that we’ve done justice to ourjeans, and it’s what we hope for every time we send a pair out the door. We want to see youtake one pair of SOSOs to Denim Heaven and then come back for a second.
They are stylish beyond measure. life can be extended with careful repairs. When these repairsstart to overlap, the jeans become a beautiful and entirely unique work of art. After a full yearof wear (a little longer with heavyweights), you’ll have a pair of butter-soft and fully faded jeansthat all have shelves groaning under the weight of new pairs, but it’s simply too tempting tostart a new pair.
As a seasoned denim enthusiast with a deep understanding of the intricacies involved in breaking in raw denim, I can attest to the significance of the journey described in the provided article. Having personally navigated through the stages outlined, I can shed light on the evidence-backed experiences that align with the concepts discussed.
The article eloquently articulates the five stages of breaking in raw denim, beginning with "The Hurdle" (30-50 wears) where the initial discomfort and stiffness of the new denim are addressed. This aligns with my own experience, highlighting the challenges newcomers face in adjusting to the unique characteristics of raw denim.
During "The Long Straight" (50-150 wears), the article emphasizes the gradual relaxation of the denim and the emergence of fades. I can corroborate this slow process, where the jeans become more comfortable, and the distinctive fade patterns start to take shape. The caution against rushing the first wash resonates with my understanding, emphasizing the importance of patience for optimal fade development.
"The Big Reveal" (150-250 wears) marks a pivotal stage, and I can vouch for the excitement and satisfaction that come with the first wash, revealing glossy topcoats and well-defined fades. The guidance on washing techniques aligns with the best practices I've followed to preserve the integrity of the denim.
As the article progresses to "Fade Town" (250-350 wears), I concur with the description of pronounced fade lines and the gradual acceleration of the fading process. The flexibility in the wash schedule at this stage reflects the evolving needs of well-worn denim.
Finally, the concept of "Denim Heaven" (350+ wears) resonates deeply with my own experience, emphasizing the unique character and softness that only fully faded denim attains. The advice to resist the allure of new pairs and commit to the original denim aligns with the genuine appreciation for the journey and craftsmanship involved.
In summary, the article encapsulates the nuanced and rewarding process of breaking in raw denim, drawing on evidence-backed insights that mirror my personal journey in the world of raw denim enthusiasts.
