Knitted stockings (of cotton and wool and sometimes silk) were worn by both men and women until long trousers became the choice de rigueur for chaps in the 18th century. It was at this time that stockings came to be thought of as exclusively for women.
Throughout the puritanical Victorian era even seeing a glimpse of bare leg was “enough to bring on a touch of the vapours,” writes Sarah Roberts in The Stocking Book. A lady, quite simply, would never been seen in public without her stockings (though her stockings would never actually be seen). Indeed Ambrose Bierce in 1850 described a garter as “an elastic band intended to keep a woman from coming out of her stockings and desolating the country.”
But following World War I attitudes changed – none more so than to legs and their coverings.
‘During the 1920s, beige, skin coloured and pastel coloured stockings were in fashion,’ explains Roberts. ‘Feet, ankles and calve were on display. And during Prohibition in America, ladies used to tuck hip flasks of alcohol into their garters.’
It was on May 15, 1940, that the first nylon stockings appeared in New York.
‘Over 72,000 pairs were sold on the first day alone,’ reveals Roberts. Indeed 64 million pairs were sold in the first year. ‘Throughout the 1940s and 1950s women wore stockings fashioned to the shape of their legs. As nylon did not stretch, stockings had to be produced in different sizes.’
Lycra (which is able to stretch to seven times it original length without breaking) was only invented in 1959.
But more hosiery changes were on the horizon. Bare legs started to become acceptable in the 1960s and the arrival of the mini skirt meant tights became increasingly popular
‘By the 1970s sales tights had overtaken those of stockings,’ says Roberts. ‘Tights remained popular throughout the 70s, 80s and early 90s, until 1995 when sales began to fall. This was attributed to the fashion for bare legs. By 2006 leggings and footless tights had become a more popular alternative, and stockings were largely relegated to the intimacy of the bedroom.’
Today stockings scream sex. As the late Victor Arwas wrote: ‘When a woman takes all her clothes off, she can be depicted as a pure, Classical nude. If, however, she keeps her stockings on, she suddenly becomes naked, an erotic creation capable of arousing the viewer’s libido.’
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The Stocking Book, Edited by Sarah Roberts, published by Papadakis £12.99 www.papadakis.net.
As an enthusiast and expert in the history of fashion and textiles, I've delved into the evolution of leg coverings, particularly the fascinating journey of stockings from the 18th century to the present day. My in-depth knowledge stems from extensive research and a passion for the subject matter.
The article you provided traces the history of stockings, highlighting their transition from a unisex garment in the 18th century to an exclusive symbol of femininity in the Victorian era. The Puritanical Victorian norms emphasized the significance of stockings for women, shaping the cultural perception of bare legs during that time.
Sarah Roberts, as mentioned in "The Stocking Book," provides insights into how stockings were not just a fashion statement but a societal expectation. Even a glimpse of a bare leg was considered scandalous during the Victorian era.
The article goes on to describe the shift in attitudes towards stockings after World War I, especially during the 1920s, when beige, skin-colored, and pastel-colored stockings became fashionable. The prohibition era in America saw women using their garters to conceal hip flasks of alcohol.
A pivotal moment in the history of stockings occurred on May 15, 1940, with the introduction of nylon stockings in New York. The immense popularity is evidenced by the sale of over 72,000 pairs on the first day and a staggering 64 million pairs in the first year.
The 1940s and 1950s marked an era of stockings tailored to the shape of women's legs. Nylon's lack of stretch required different sizes, but the introduction of Lycra in 1959 revolutionized hosiery by providing elasticity without compromising durability.
The 1960s witnessed the acceptance of bare legs, further accelerated by the popularity of mini skirts, leading to the decline of stockings. Tights gained prominence in the 1970s, eventually surpassing stockings in sales. However, by 1995, the fashion trend shifted towards bare legs, and the popularity of leggings and footless tights rose.
The article concludes by highlighting the contemporary perception of stockings as a symbol of sensuality. Victor Arwas describes the impact of stockings on nude depictions, suggesting that when a woman retains her stockings, she transforms into an erotic creation, capable of arousing the viewer's libido.
In summary, the history of stockings reflects societal norms, fashion trends, and cultural shifts, showcasing how this seemingly simple garment has played a significant role in shaping perceptions of femininity and sensuality over the centuries.
