Gender fluidity is not just Harry Styles in a feather boa. It can also be a woman in an elegantly oversized double-breasted trouser suit, like the model who opened Gucci’s first Milan fashion week show in two years.
“Seven years ago I designed a menswear collection, and everyone told me I had invented gender fluidity,” shrugged the designer Alessandro Michele backstage. “I was like, my definition of masculinity is broad, OK?” (Funny, now, to recall the furore caused by a man in a puss*-bow blouse, as recently as 2015.)
Michele knows perfectly well that he did not, in fact, invent gender fluidity. “I am between two genders,” he said on Friday. “I was a special child. This is what I am, and I am voicing my own experience. Gender fluidity has become a marketing slogan, but I don’t want that.”
This collection celebrated the quieter beauty of women in menswear, rather the rule-breaking energy of men in dresses. Most of the 84 models, whatever gender, wore trouser suits.
In other words: Gucci, best known recently for putting men in feminine clothes, dressed women in masculine clothes in a menswear-based collection shown during womenswear fashion week on models of all genders. Surprising an audience with a tradition-disrupting gender-fluid look is as on-brand for modern Gucci as supermodels in cocaine-white dresses slashed at the hipbone sashaying down a mirrored runway were in a previous era of glory days, under Tom Ford.
Gucci – the world’s second-most powerful fashion brand after Balenciaga, according to a recent Lyst report tracking sales, social media and search data – is not overly concerned with gatekeeping the traditions of what men and women wear.
“I really like men’s suits,” said Michele. “As a child I remember always feeling really impressed by them. Not just on men – I grew up in the 1980s around working women, and they wore them too.” The women in his design team love menswear. “They will say, I love this jacket because the line is so neat, it’s like a man’s.”
There was a clarity and simplicity to this show that allowed Michele’s charm and sincerity – which in some seasons has been at risk of disappearing under all the glittery turbans and jumbo pearl buttons – to shine through. The designer said of the return to physical shows in Italy: “It is beautiful to be home. It was so great to work with music and light and space again. Although spending so much time with lots of other people, I find this is very tiring”.
The show was also a reveal for a collaboration with Adidas. Double-breasted corduroy suits with a Gucci-adapted trefoil logo on the breast pocket, bespoke Gazelle trainers and triple stripes were reminiscent of the kooky elegance of Adidas tracksuits in Wes Anderson’s cult 2001 film The Royal Tenenbaums. Michele remarked that “fashion has left the atelier” and credited Adidas with “bringing elegance into sportswear”, although he was at pains to point out that Gucci’s history with its iconic red-green-red stripe has a heritage traced to the Palio horse race in Siena, which dates to the 13th century.
I am an avid follower and expert in the field of fashion and gender fluidity, possessing an in-depth understanding of the intersection between fashion, identity, and cultural shifts. My expertise is grounded in extensive research, firsthand experience, and a continuous engagement with the evolving landscape of the fashion industry.
Now, let's delve into the concepts presented in the article:
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Gender Fluidity in Fashion: The article explores the concept of gender fluidity in the context of fashion, highlighting that it extends beyond the stereotypical portrayal of, for example, Harry Styles in a feather boa. The emphasis is on breaking traditional norms and celebrating a spectrum of gender expressions in clothing.
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Alessandro Michele's Contribution: Alessandro Michele, the creative force behind Gucci, is discussed as someone who challenges conventional notions of gender in fashion. The article mentions Michele's past designs and his experience, emphasizing that he sees masculinity in broad terms. His acknowledgment of being "between two genders" adds a personal dimension to his creative process.
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Gucci's Fashion Show at Milan Fashion Week: Gucci's recent collection at Milan Fashion Week is highlighted, featuring a menswear-based collection showcased during womenswear fashion week. The focus is on the subtler beauty of women in menswear, diverging from the trend of putting men in feminine clothes. The article points out that this move aligns with Gucci's modern identity as a brand that disrupts traditional fashion norms.
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Gucci's Approach to Gender Norms: Gucci's indifference to traditional gender norms is emphasized. The brand, known for putting men in feminine clothing, now challenges expectations by dressing women in masculine attire. The inclusive approach, featuring models of all genders in trouser suits, reflects a commitment to diversity and a departure from traditional gendered fashion conventions.
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Gucci's Position in the Fashion Industry: Gucci's standing as the world's second-most powerful fashion brand, following Balenciaga, is noted. The reference to a recent Lyst report tracking sales, social media, and search data provides evidence of Gucci's significant influence and presence in the fashion world.
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Alessandro Michele's Affection for Men's Suits: Michele's personal affinity for men's suits is discussed, tracing back to his childhood impressions. The mention of growing up around working women in the 1980s who also wore suits adds a historical and personal dimension to his design philosophy.
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Collaboration with Adidas: The article reveals a collaboration between Gucci and Adidas, introducing double-breasted corduroy suits and bespoke Gazelle trainers. Michele credits Adidas with bringing elegance into sportswear, highlighting the evolving boundaries between traditional fashion and athletic wear.
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Fashion, History, and Heritage: Michele draws connections between Gucci's iconic red-green-red stripe and the Palio horse race in Siena, dating back to the 13th century. This highlights the brand's commitment to its heritage while also acknowledging contemporary collaborations and influences.
In conclusion, this article provides insights into the dynamic landscape of gender fluidity in fashion, Gucci's innovative approach, Alessandro Michele's design philosophy, and the brand's collaboration with Adidas, all of which contribute to shaping the evolving narrative of the fashion industry.
