“I think they have more of a story to tell,” he says. “Vintage Rolexes are much rarer in reality than a brand-new one where over a million watches are made per year. Back in the day, only 100,000 to 200,000 were made [a year].”
He does drill home the importance of buying from a reputable source, however, such as a specialist site like Watchfinder, Crown & Caliber or at auction. Just be sure to read the condition report, he adds, which provides details for the watch, including any damage, and any additional fees and taxes that are payable.
“I’ve seen people going on the likes of Craigslist and buying so many Frankenstein or fake watches,” says Wind, referring to watches that have been altered, their original parts swapped out and which can reduce the watch’s value by up to 90 percent. “People still get fooled all the time by fakes or misrepresented watches.”
Vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Last year, eBay launched its watch “authenticity guarantee” programme in the UK, where any watch sold on its site over £2,000 is subject to a series of inspection checks, and includes a money-back guarantee. Rolex Datejusts are among the most sought-after models on the site, with the most valuable piece sold in the last three years a 2019 Rolex GMT-Master II in rose gold with a black dial, which went for £50,000.
Vintage Rolex Explorer Men’s Watch
Elsewhere, several luxury retailers have also launched certified pre-owned programmes, complete with rigorous checks and two year warranties on any pre-owned Rolex. Watches of Switzerland puts its pre-owned watches through their paces, undergoing the same rigorous checks as they would at Rolex’s service centre in Switzerland. Polishing, waterproof testing and functionality checks like date setting, chronograph or GMT functions are among the services carried out.
Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust
The authorised Rolex dealer Bucherer likewise has a similar service, with only Rolex watchmakers allowed to service Rolex watches. “Any watch we take in needs to be pretty much put back to the mintest condition possible,” says Pierre Hardouin, Bucherer’s certified pre-owned trading manager. "It’s really about taking a watch and giving it a second life.”
Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned Rolex 1355-135-6 Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Plus, the two-year warranty, in Rolex terms, means going above-and-beyond. “If the watch works perfectly for two years, it should work perfectly for five, 10 years,” adds Hardouin.
Both Bucherer and Watches of Switzerland also offer a trade-in and buy-back service, where customers can bring in old watches they no longer love or wear, to upgrade to, say, that Rolex Day-Date you’ve long been eyeing up (Hardouin notes that the underlying watch will likely need to be a luxury watch, with a value of at least £500).
Vintage Rolex Submariner Blue Men’s Watch
Whether buying an old or new Rolex, both Soteri and Wind emphasise arming yourself with research and knowledge. Those wanting to deep dive into the world of a Submariner or GMT-Master, two of the most desirable Rolex models right now, can check out the Reference Points videos from the online watch site, Hodinkee. Research, says Soteri, is a great way to prepare for a store visit, so you’re armed with questions for the Rolex salesperson.
Vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback 18k Rose Gold
But in the end, like all momentous and considered purchases, one should follow one’s heart – and try not to take buying a Rolex too seriously. “Have some fun with it,” advises Soteri. “And buy what you want, not what you think you should be buying.”
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