A voyage through the world of pleats (2024)

Pleats, they’re incredibly contemporary and timeless at the same time. They instantly make us feel more elegant and catapult our outfits to the next level. Apparently that’s a global sentiment. Wherever we look, pleats are a recurring theme among the upper echelons of society in the histories of cultures around the world. But what is it about the humble pleat that evokes such a broad palette of emotions among so many? It’s high time we delved deeper into this fascinating sewing technique.

Among the ancient Egyptians in 2100 BCE, pleats were only worn by Pharaohs and the nobility. That was because pleats were merely temporary and required a tremendous amount of time to create. A stiffening agent was used to create a garment’s pleats, but this would dissolve when the garment was washed. Essentially, any time pleats were called for, they had to be specially made for the occasion. The exact details remain a mystery, although some sources claim that egg was used in the process.

Despite their close ties, it seems the ancient Greeks knew nothing about this technique. They created pleats using various draping techniques. Because art was an integral part of their society, we can still enjoy their style of dress thousands of years later. For example, dozens of statues wearing these robes have been discovered. Here, too, it seems that pleats signify status; they are worn by the upper class. Moreover, if the garments were purple, this was a sure sign that the wearer was a member of the wealthy and powerful elite. Purple dye in those times was extremely difficult to produce and exorbitantly expensive.

Further East, pleats were all the rage during China's Song Dynasty, from 960 to 1279. The nobility of this dynasty were very much taken with pleated skirts. However, what was also striking about sartorial practice in this age was the silhouette. Until then, skirts had always been worn just below the bust. The Song generations lowered skirts to the waist.

Pleats were also worn in the green and craggy highlands of Scotland. For example, the kilt has been around since the 16th century. Beyond its pleats, kilts are also fascinating as a historical garment due to their patterns. To find out more, just read the article on pleats and checks.

Pleats in the 20th century

Mariano Fortuny 1909

At the dawn of the 20th century, Mariano Fortuny was a true master of pleats in Europe. This Spanish designer created pleats that had hitherto been considered impossible. After all, the natural materials from which clothing was fashioned until then was not in the least bit conducive to permanent pleats. And it was for that reason that the designer kept his techniques secret. To this day, we have no idea how he managed it.

Pleats made a roaring comeback on the fashion scene of the late 1940s. That was at least partially due to the end of World War II. Naturally, pleats require more fabric, and there was a shortage of fabric during the fighting. To conserve fabric in those days, garments were rarely made with pleats or ruffles. New fabrics and chemicals were also invented that made pleating much easier.

Pleats are destined to conquer and dominate the streets in the years to come. We’ve collected a selection of the best to provide you with inspiration.