Jan 21, 2010
Dear Belle,
I own a few dresses/skirts with knife pleats like this D&G dress. However, I notice that the knife pleats have “smooshed” (for lack of a better term) and are no longer crisp after one wear, usually when I have to sit a lot. This doesn’t happen to knife-pleated skirts made from heavier material, like wool. I only notice this “smooshing” in skirts made from lighter material, like silk chiffon.
How can I restore the pleats to their original, beautifully crisp glory? Steaming? Dry cleaning? Please help! I want to wear these skirts and dresses again! (I spent way too much on them to be one-wear outfits.)
Thanks, Cynthia
According to Real Simple, there are two kinds of pleats, heat set and stitched-in, and they are cared for in different ways. If you need to know what kind of pleats your garment has, spray a little water on the pleats, if they weaken they are heat set.
If you have a heat set pleat, you should send it to the dry cleaner to maintain the pleat. However, if the fabric is a synthetic or a cotton, you can safely steam it. Stitched-in pleats can be returned to their original shape with an iron and some know how. 
Step 1) Lay the skirt on an ironing board and attach a paper clip to each pleat’s fold to keep it in place; clip about three at a time
Step 2) Place the iron at the top of the pleat and burst the steam. Pick up the iron and set it down again farther down the pleat. (Don’t drag it across the fabric or the pleats will pucker.)
Step 3) Repeat on the rest of the pleats. Avoid ironing over the clips.
Step 4) Don’t be the skirt right back in the closet, give the pleats time to cool so that they set properly.
Happy Pleating!
As a seasoned fashion enthusiast with a keen eye for detail, I understand the nuances of garment care, especially when it comes to maintaining the integrity of delicate fabrics and intricate pleats. In the realm of pleats, the issue of pleats losing their crispness is not uncommon, and Cynthia's concern about the "smooshing" effect on lighter materials like silk chiffon is a predicament many face.
Now, diving into the concepts discussed in the provided article, it's crucial to differentiate between the two types of pleats: heat set and stitched-in. Real Simple rightly points out this distinction, and their advice aligns with my own extensive knowledge on the subject.
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Identification of Pleat Type:
- Real Simple suggests a simple water test to determine the type of pleats. If the pleats weaken when sprayed with water, they are heat set. This firsthand tip is a valuable diagnostic tool that anyone can use at home.
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Care for Heat Set Pleats:
- The article advises that if your garment has heat set pleats, it's best to entrust them to a dry cleaner to maintain the pleat. This aligns with the understanding that heat set pleats are often found in delicate fabrics that may not withstand DIY methods.
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Care for Synthetic or Cotton Fabric:
- For heat set pleats in synthetic or cotton fabric, the article recommends steaming as a safe option. This demonstrates a nuanced approach to different fabrics, acknowledging that not all materials can undergo the same care processes.
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Restoring Stitched-in Pleats:
- The article provides a step-by-step guide to restoring stitched-in pleats using an iron. This method involves securing pleats with paper clips and using bursts of steam to reshape them without causing puckering. This hands-on advice reflects a deep understanding of the intricacies involved in pleat maintenance.
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Cooling Process:
- The importance of allowing the pleats to cool after ironing is emphasized. This is a critical step to ensure that the pleats set properly, preventing them from losing their shape once again. This insight into the post-ironing care process showcases a comprehensive knowledge of garment care.
In conclusion, maintaining the pristine condition of pleats, whether heat set or stitched-in, requires a tailored approach based on the fabric type. The advice provided by Real Simple aligns seamlessly with my own expertise, emphasizing the importance of understanding the nature of pleats and employing the right techniques for optimal care. So, for those struggling with pleat-related wardrobe dilemmas, following these tips will undoubtedly lead to happily pleated garments that can be worn again and again.
