L. asked: “I read that vermouth is a type of bitters. How can that be true??”
What would happen, wondered the ancients, if you put bitter herbs into wine? The resulting medicinal infusions turned out to be not only effective but sometimes tolerable to drink. Or even pleasant. Downright pleasant.
Thanks to them, we now have a panoply of drinks and drink ingredients, from numerous far-flung traditions, made with herbs that impart a variety of flavors: spicy, floral, piney, earthy, and, most often, bitter.
The most familiar of the bitter products may be “co*cktail bitters”—the ones you use by the dash. The most famous is surely Angostura, that intense orange-red liquid that improves co*cktails even in single-dash doses. Its bitterness comes from gentian root (also familiar to Moxie drinkers) and helps disparate ingredients in a drink integrate into a harmonious mixture. There are hundreds of other bitters available in little bottles--orange, chocolate, creole, and celery all good in co*cktails and all with one thing in common: bitterness. Some also get their bitterness from gentian; others from different bitter-tasting plants such as calamus, wormwood, cinchona, or quassia.
A dash or two suffices for most people, but if you really love bitters, you may like the Trinidad Sour, a co*cktail that has more Ango’ than anything else.
More likely in that case you’re in the market for “potable bitters,” a broad category of bitter liqueurs that includes Campari, Fernet, Jägermeister, and many Italian sippables (called amari, Italian for “bitters”) such as Montenegro. (A “liqueur” is a spirit that contains sugar.) The degree of bitterness runs from gently invigorating and well-balanced by sweetness, in an amaro such as Cardamaro, to medicinal-tasting concoctions that strain the limits of the term “potable”; for instance Elisir Novasalus, another amaro, which co*cktail writer Chuck Taggart likens to “getting kicked in the crotch by a tree.”
Though they’re great in co*cktails, these liqueurs are most traditionally enjoyed before or after a meal, as an aperitif or digestif, respectively. They’re intended to whet the appetite and/or help us digest a big meal, and it seems likely that they work because most bitter tastes found in nature are associated with poisonous plants. The bitter quaff signals to the digestive tract, “oh dear, just ingested something toxic—better shift the digestive processes into high gear and get it out of our system quick.”
Vermouth can be considered bitters because it is made by adding bitter wormwood to wine: By definition, it is wine-based and made with wormwood (the word “vermouth” derives from the German word for “wormwood,” wermuth), with additional alcohol and herbs, as well as optional sugar and color. Dry vermouth, also known as white vermouth or French vermouth, is made from white wine, botanical flavorings, and a small amount of sugar. Sweet vermouth, also known as red vermouth or Italian vermouth, is made from white wine too, with more sugar, different botanicals, and red-brown color from caramel, spices, and/or red wine. They’re both made in many different countries and in a multitude of nuanced styles.
So yes, if you have an amaro or other drinkable bitters around, try using it in a Manhattan instead of sweet vermouth. If you like whetting your appetite with an aperitif, try a glass of dry vermouth.
Certainly! Vermouth is indeed a fascinating addition to the world of bitters, and understanding its role within this category requires a grasp of several key concepts: bittering agents, the historical evolution of medicinal infusions, co*cktail bitters, potable bitters or liqueurs, and the specifics of vermouth.
Firstly, let's start with bittering agents. Bitter flavors in drinks often come from various plants, each contributing a unique taste profile. Gentian root, for instance, is a common source of bitterness, evident in both co*cktail bitters like Angostura and potable bitters such as Campari or Fernet.
Historically, the ancients experimented with infusing bitter herbs into wines, resulting in medicinal infusions. These concoctions were not only effective but also surprisingly palatable, giving rise to a wide array of drinks and ingredients rooted in different traditions. The bitterness derived from these herbs imparts a spectrum of flavors, from spicy and floral to earthy and predominantly bitter.
co*cktail bitters, exemplified by Angostura, play a crucial role in enhancing drinks by integrating disparate ingredients into a harmonious blend. These are usually used sparingly, with just a dash or two capable of transforming the taste of a co*cktail.
Moving on to potable bitters or liqueurs, these encompass a broad category of bitter liqueurs like Campari, Jägermeister, or amari such as Montenegro. They vary significantly in bitterness, from subtly balanced to intensely medicinal. While great in co*cktails, they're traditionally enjoyed before or after meals as aperitifs or digestifs, respectively, to stimulate the appetite or aid digestion due to the association of bitter tastes in nature with potentially poisonous plants.
And finally, vermouth fits into this narrative as a type of bitters due to its composition. Vermouth involves adding bitter wormwood to wine, thus falling under the category of bitters. Dry vermouth, made from white wine and botanical flavorings with minimal sugar, differs from sweet vermouth, which contains more sugar, different botanicals, and often gets its red-brown color from caramel, spices, or red wine.
Understanding these concepts helps appreciate how vermouth, with its inclusion of bitter wormwood in wine, aligns with the broader spectrum of bitters. Whether used as an alternative in co*cktails or enjoyed as an aperitif, its bitter profile adds a unique dimension to the world of drinks.
