7. May 2019
History & influences
An unorthodox and radical current, Avant-Garde is synonymous with pushing the boundaries of culture for well over a century. Since its first inception, this movement generated major progress in art, music, architecture, literature, theatre and film and most importantly, in fashion.
In fashion terms, avant-garde spanned generations of notable designers who reshaped the way people perceive and wear clothes. Characterized as progressive and forward thinking, the once eyebrow-raising avant garde fashion style is now a worldwide phenomenon.
In this editorial we’ll explore the term and also get the views of Barbara í Gongini, an avant garde contemporary fashion designer , an active participant in the Nordic art discourse, in close collaboration with film, music and photography artists, which all add to her creative process.
Keep reading and take a journey through her views on what is avant-garde fashion today, how it all started and where it’s heading.
Avant-garde fashion designer Barbara I Gongini
Avant-garde isan approach to how one does things, a mindset that guides in how you think and create.It's about experimentation and introducing innovative ideas that lookbeyond societal norms of what is considered accepted.
The Avant-Garde Fashion term
To fully grasp the concept and its importance, Barbara Í Gongini, our avant-garde fashion designer explains:“Avant-garde can be viewed as experimental because it has something to do with constantly being on the edge, thinking forward and exploring new possibilities. Mirroring the times in which we are living provides a relevance to the form of expression of the artist.”
By relying on social context, the artists explores and creates blindly, in an experimental approach to discovering where the artistic inspiration will take him.With trying different ways of doing something comes innovation and thus, progress.
Avant-Garde’s History & Artistic Roots
The avant-garde movement primarily consists of artists, designers, musicians, writers and thinkers who are opposed to cultural values of the mainstream. The vanguard notion means traveling beyond what's accepted as the status quo, to think and create beyond established social norms.
Famous Avant-Garde DESIGNERS AND artists
IN Art and Culture
Amongst the most prominent avant-garde visual artists, there is Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Constantin Brâncuși, Andy Warhol and Jackson Pollock.Another hugely influential field was the ever changing landscape of architecture. Names such as Le Corbusier, Norman Foster, Frank Lloyd Wright and Louis Kahn are synonymous with architectural boldness.
House by Le Corbusier
IN Filmmaking
Furthering the visual arts are those artists who have made a name for themselves in avant-garde filmmaking. Jonas Mekas is one the utmost authority in American avant-garde cinema - others, such as experimental filmmaker Kenneth Anger, and the famous David Lynch have also brought an amazing contribution to this field.
Across the Pacific, Ryūtarō Nakamura and Shūji Terayama distinguished themselves both in film and in other fields.
Portrait: Constantin Brâncuși
IN Music & Literature
A fundamental aspect of musical avant-gardism is the rise of electronic music. The techno scene in particular is often associated with avant-gardism. Artists such as german group Kraftwerk or the iconical Daft Punk duo have contributed to the popularization and widespread acceptance of the phenomenon.
The techno and alternative music scenes can still be regarded as authentic avant-garde. DJ and producers around the world are crafting their own unique sound aimed at improving current aesthetic conventions. The writers of the avant-garde movement are known for their experimental literature and their innovation of writing techniques. Notable experimental writers include James Joyce, Ernest Hemingway, Norman Mailer, Tristan Tzara (picture below) and Raymond Queneau.
Portraid: Tristan Tzara
IN FASHION
In fashion, avant-garde manifested in a similar way to other fields.It presumes forward thinking, artistry, unconventional designs, new forms, structures and an extraordinary touch that separates the ideas from the mainstream. Avant garde fashions distinguishes itself through the fact that it embodies a way of living. To showhow avant garde influenced fashion, Barbara Í Gongini explains:“Avant-garde fashion emanates deeply in some sort of holistic sense of being. The whole Japanese aesthetic philosophies emanate very much with what I am. What I stand for.“
The continuous experimental approach has defined a fashion style that has a very specific tone of voice. Those who are familiar avant-garde fashion have developed a unique way of understanding it.Thus, a connection is made through very personal way of expressing yourself -“It tells stories which go deep under the skin and perception of the wearer.”
Barbara I Gongini backstage Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding
FAMOUS AVANT-GARDE FASHION DESIGNERS
Through its long evolution,prominent avant-garde fashion designershave established their own particular style to an iconic level.Avant-garde fashion roots are hard to trace but it was the Japanese designers, in particular, have had a major influence in the field, kickstarting the whole concept and setting off a global revolution.According to avant-garde fashion designer Barbara I Gongini,“the most inspirational figures at the moment are old school Avant-gardists like Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Junja Watanabe.”
Portraid: Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji is one of the few avant-garde designers that have managed to successfully entwine a non-conformist approach to fashion with mainstream brands. His collaboration withadidasfor the famousY-3 brandhas broken new ground in fashion wear.It’s hard to lay down atop 10 iconic avant-garde designersbut other remarkable ones besides those mentioned are Thierry Mugler, Courrèges, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Carol Christian Poell, Julius and Rick Owens.
Image Credit: Julius
Other contemporary designers such asRick Owensare held in high regards amongst top avant-garde fashion designers. His influential style has been translated into runway collections as well as other fields such as design.
Image Credit: Rick Owens
Avant-Garde Contributions to Fashion
The movement has impacted the way designers think and create their work. Certain tendencies caught on and are now widespread.
Barbara Í Gongini explains:“The lack of color is one of the biggest fashion contributions of the avant-garde movement. Our brand mainly works with monochrome shades. Keeping only a single tone gives the opportunity to work on clothing like on a canvas”.
The form, shape, and volume of outfits have also been changed by the avant-garde influence.Details now consist of unexpected cuts and oversized tailoring which offer a different perspective to what the wearer is presenting.
Contemporary Avant-Garde Fashion
Today’s contemporary style is very different, quite opposite to what was being made in the "old" days.
While the roots and pioneering designs are still respected, there is “an extreme clash/paradox between the extreme overdrive of colours/styling and mainly basic items.”
Barbara Í Gongini explains that the current style can be viewed as “confrontational in a specific manner, not in form but in how the ordinary clothing is perceived and how it is styled.”
Photo by Lea Nielsen. Avant-Garde Designs by Barbara I Gongini. See more here.
Avant-garde fashion started around the 1960’s and it was quite a controversial topic at the time. The style can also be controversial if it needs to - drawing up on contemporary social context as a source of inspiration, it can result in a forward pushing manifestations that define our times.
“The garments should have a provocative grip whilst still being sensitive to the times we’re living in. Grasping topics of the current society means understanding the idea of layers - what lies beneath the surface. There is always a layer that hides something to explore and something to surprise us.”
This is actually what the BARBARA I GONGINI avant garde clothing brand wants to do: set the bar for contemporary avant-garde fashion while also being relevant in a contemporary context. Its pieces are more than simple items, they are stories that allow you to speak without saying a word.We present a different take on Nordic garments, derived from a conceptual approach towards fashion design.
Image credit: Adam Katz Sinding. Make-up: MAC Cosmetics
Experimental & Gender fluid
The specific construction process is aimed at crafting garments eloquently suitable for both men and women. Structural forms are challenged and experimental pattern-making shape a solemn backdrop for contemporary tailoring.However, the downside of this contemporary age is that “a large number of young brands flood the market with designs where expressiveness is boiled down into something very sellable and wearable - commercial, so to speak”. Pushing this very independent trend into the mainstream only spells lack of taste and commercialization for all those involved.
Explore more BARBARA I GONGINI collections here.
Monochrome black avant garde fashion
Black is without a doubt the defining color of avant-garde fashion. Dark fashion, how it is sometimes called, implies wearing heavy toned colors that serve to emphasize the uncovered skin.All black garments or bicolor ones may lack in chromatic but make up in style and simplicity. Especially asymmetric hemlines which are cut to surprising shapes.This esthetic characterizes BARBARA I GONGINI collections.
“It is broken down in monochromatic version to center the attention onto silhouettes. The design has to serve some kind of purpose to eventually cater the intellect of the wearer and to have some kind of value to tell the wearer,” Barbara Í Gongini explains.
Photo by Adam Katz Sinding.See more BARBARA I GONGINI tops here.
Structured and volumized avant garde clothing
More colorful garments are another part of avant-garde fashion.Prominent in the works of designers such as Comme des Garçons for example, these alternative fashion outfits feature volume.Daring ruffles, patterns, and colors are also a part of the avant-garde fashion current. Forward thinking designers such as Rei Kawakubo always surprise the runways with their designs.
Image Credit: Comme des Garcons
Street Avant-Garde
Some types of avant-garde fashion may also include specific avant-garde street style - designers create predominantly for street wear.Avant-garde street style is often regarded as extravagant and head turning, a way of making your presence known.
Photo by Kia Hartelius, Street-style Bomber Series by Barbara I Gongini. Discover more here.
BARBARA I GONGINI’s Approach to Avant-Garde Fashion
The BARBARA I GONGINI fashion approach is based on what we like most about the avant-garde fashion. It’s about the pure essence of avant-garde, BIB differentiates through the idea of concept and messaging.“As opposed to those who merely imitate the trend, we try to craft pieces with a particular message. In my eyes, the very non-compromised fashion is the most relevant nowadays.”
Multifunctional
Also kept in high regard is the multifunctional aspect of the garment. There should always be another angle of usage for a particular piece. When you are able to style something in a second or third way it means that the piece is not only stylish but versatile.
What Inspires the Style of BARBARA I GONGINI
For Barbara Í Gongini, avant-garde fashion is a way to express yourself, a never ending quest for individuality and an unapologetic approach to your own style.While Japanese designers have their contribution, the brand mainly draws its stimulus from the Faroe Islands from where the founder, Barbara is from. The wide, open spaces of the Faroes are what instill the creative drive behind BARBARA I GONGINI:“Being somehow able to merge these two traditions to a beautiful and whole a composition is like drawing on a canvas. Drawing the essence from my origins from my heritage has enabled me to be original in my creations.”
Another incentive that sparks the creative process is based in absorbing the contemporary socio-political landscape. Taking inspiration from and being aware of surroundings is especially important in remaining a relevant brand.Creating designs in a fast, ever-changing society requires experimentalism and the courage to try fresh and ambitious things.
Image credit: Adam Katz Sinding. Explore more BARBARA I GONGINI collections here.
Avant-Garde means Progress & Responsibility
The BARBARA I GONGINI approach to the avant-garde concepts is tightly connected with sustainability practices that make the brand almost unique in the industry.We strive to work only with suppliers which respect the EU legislation standards, and source a range of materials approved by Oeko-Tex®. These are tested for harmful substances, for both health and environmental reasons.
Also, multi-ways designs is a must of BIG designs, which give the wearer the possibility to wear them for a longer period of time. The brand represents a Wardrobing Concept that entails longevity & a more conscious approach to consumer consumption.
Closing thoughts BY BARBARA I GONGINI
Avant-garde fashion is here to stay and fashion designers show no signs of slowing down the progress that the current has brought.In other fields, the directions are the same - extraordinary breads extraordinary so exploring boundaries will not stop.Now that you are more familiar with what avant-garde stands, we can’t wait for you to start discovering a world where freedom of expression means progress.
Get acquainted with our collections and discover the true spirit of avant-garde fashion.
Explore more BARBARA I GONGINI collections here.
