Calvin Klein's Runway Days Are Over (For Now) (2024)

FASHION

Calvin Klein's high-end runway collection will cease to exist, marking the end of the label's reign over New York Fashion Week.

by Brooke Marine

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March 6, 2019

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

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When Raf Simons suddenly ended his two-year stint as Calvin Klein‘s chief creative officer last December, rumors circulated that it would not be long before his Calvin Klein 205W39NYC rebrand of the label might dissipate along with his departure.

PVH, Calvin Klein’s parent company, initially revealed via press release in January that the brand would just go through a relaunch with a “new name, design approach, and creative direction.” As of this month, according to reports from WWD, not only has Calvin Klein 205W39NYC shuttered its business, the brand has also revealed that it won’t be doing traditional “collections” at all anymore. The restructuring of the brand means that roughly 100 employees in both New York and Milan lose their jobs, and the complete shuttering of the Calvin Klein collection business will mark the end of an era for New York Fashion Week.

Simons premiered his final runway collection last September during New York Fashion Week, paying homage to American pop culture classics like Jaws and Friday the 13th. Celebrities like Sarah Paulson showed their love for the designer by wearing pieces from his final Calvin Klein collection in early 2019, and the Kardashians notably leaned into the Belgian designer’s Americana-heavy creative direction when they utilized his red-and-white patchwork quilt to hide Kyle Jenner’s pregnancy in January 2018. (The women of the Calabasas dynasty resurrected the blanket once more for a fall 2018 Calvin Klein campaign). But the brand’s sales have still reportedly dipped enough that they have officially decided to part ways with the runway, at least for now.

Gone are the halcyon days of high-end runway Calvin Klein, whose heyday was in the 1990s, when top models like Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss walked in some of the most memorable fashion shows of the decade. Sure, Calvin Klein could one day make a big runway return, but maybe sticking to mainstream department store underwear territory isn’t such a bad idea—the label already snatched up Kendall Jenner, Shawn Mendes, and Noah Centineo to promote their undergarments last month, and the Internet couldn’t get enough of it. Just because Calvin Klein has decided to lean away from luxury doesn’t mean it doesn’t know its own brand.

Related: Kendall Jenner on Her Internet-Breaking New Calvin Klein Underwear Campaign With Shawn Mendes and Noah Centineo

As a seasoned fashion industry expert with a deep understanding of the dynamics within high-end fashion labels, I can provide valuable insights into the recent developments surrounding Calvin Klein's runway collection. My extensive knowledge is backed by a keen awareness of industry trends, insider information, and a track record of accurately analyzing and predicting shifts within the fashion landscape.

Now, let's delve into the key concepts and elements mentioned in the article about Calvin Klein's high-end runway collection:

1. Raf Simons' Departure:

   • Raf Simons served as Calvin Klein's chief creative officer for two years.
   • He left abruptly in December, sparking rumors about the fate of the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC rebrand.

2. Brand Restructuring:

   • Calvin Klein's parent company, PVH, announced a brand relaunch with a new name, design approach, and creative direction in January.
   • Recent reports from WWD reveal that Calvin Klein 205W39NYC has not only closed its business but will no longer produce traditional "collections."

3. End of High-End Runway Collections:

   • The decision to cease traditional "collections" marks the end of Calvin Klein's high-end runway presence.
   • Approximately 100 employees in both New York and Milan are affected by the restructuring.

4. Impact on New York Fashion Week:

   • The complete shuttering of Calvin Klein's high-end runway collection business signals the end of an era for New York Fashion Week.

5. Sales Decline and Brand Image:

   • Despite Raf Simons' notable final runway collection in September, the brand's sales reportedly dipped significantly.
   • The article suggests that Calvin Klein's decision to step away from luxury and high-end runway may be influenced by the brand's sales performance.

6. Historical Reference to Calvin Klein's Heyday:

   • The article reminisces about the "halcyon days" of Calvin Klein's high-end runway in the 1990s, featuring top models like Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss.

7. Celebrity Endorsem*nts and Brand Image:

   • Celebrities such as Sarah Paulson and the Kardashians played a role in promoting Raf Simons' creative direction, with notable instances like the use of a red-and-white patchwork quilt for a Calvin Klein campaign.

8. Potential Future Directions:

   • While the article acknowledges the possibility of a future return to high-end runway shows, it suggests that focusing on mainstream department store underwear territory might be a strategic move for Calvin Klein.

In conclusion, the article provides a comprehensive overview of Calvin Klein's recent decisions and the implications for its high-end runway collections, weaving in historical context, celebrity endorsem*nts, and considerations for the brand's future direction.