COLD WAR FASHION: THE EARLY YEARS (1950s - 1960s) - Cold War (2024)

The Cold War spurred two parallel contests: the arms race and the space race. These stand-offs raised tensions worldwide and gave rise to a sense of anxiety that permeated all aspects of daily life. In the West, even fashion reflected an on-going fear of communist infiltration, alien invasion, spies, and the Space Age. From the bikini to the spacesuit, designers integrated the themes of the day into their couture attire.

The Bikini

COLD WAR FASHION: THE EARLY YEARS (1950s - 1960s) - Cold War (1)

On July 5, 1946, the atomic bomb was introduced to the Paris fashion world in the form of the bikini. The new fashion was almost as shocking as the public’s persistent fear of global annihilation. You can read all about the introduction of the Bikini in our post titled It’s July: Bikini Days Are Here.

Space Suits

COLD WAR FASHION: THE EARLY YEARS (1950s - 1960s) - Cold War (2)

The protective clothing of cosmonauts and astronauts inspired fashion designers of the 1960s who were fascinated by the idea of the spacesuit as life-sustaining and protective. They thought that the dangers of modern life could be countered by high-performance clothing that was self-supporting. Also known as astronaut fashion, the success of the Apollo 11 mission in 1969 encouraged couture designers like Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin and Thierry Mugler to center entire collections around an intergalactic vision of the future.

If you want to dig deeper into Space Suit Fashion, do a search online for Fashioning Apollo. You’ll find multiple PDFs. Click here for a sample.

You can also find the book, Fashioning Apollo, published in 2011, on Amazon. Adam Gopnik says it’s “The most delightful and memorable new book I read last year…”

(Photo:Jean Shrimpton Space Suit Chic – Harpers Bazaar 1956. Photo by Richard Avedon. Thanks much to Glamour Daze.)

Future Fashion

Driving the idea of ‘future fashion’ were concerns like conflict, nuclear fall-out, pollution, the need for communication, and the threat of surveillance. The idea was to insulate the wearer from the threat of the new. Such clothing included sci-fi mini dresses and knee boots, tunics and jumpsuits, accessorized with helmets and visors, balaclavas and armor-plating. The look was led by the London designer Mary Quant and was topped off by the helmet like hairstyles of Vidal Sassoon.Want to see more? Click here.

Wearable Technology

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To some designers, Cold War science, especially the discipline of cybernetics, provided a way to meld the body with technology. Some thought that the human body would be invaded by mechanical and media technologies grounded in dystopian fantasy. Take a look at Rudi Gernreich’s plastic armor or Diana Dew’s electroluminescent dresses. (Photo courtesy of Pinterest.)

COLD WAR FASHION: THE EARLY YEARS (1950s - 1960s) - Cold War (4)

  • Paper Dresses: Fashion in the later 1960s focused on the idea of disposability, leading trend setting throwaway dresses. The military had been toying with the concept of paper clothes for quite awhile as evidenced by this quote in the Chicago Tribune from 1959:

“Much of tomorrow’s wearing apparel may be made out of treated paper, intended for use a few times, then for discard. The Quartermaster Corps is already investigating the use of such processed paper for parachutes, disposable uniforms, pup tents, and other shelters. It wears well, and its insulating qualities make it usable in all kinds of weather.”

For more on paper fashions, click here.

Synthetic Clothing

Synthetics became synonymous with affordable clothing, and were associated with modernity and youth. The new materials were crease-resistant, machine-washable, and quick drying. Referred to as “wonder fabrics,” they were most often by-products of chemical research undertaken for military, aeronautical, and space purposes. The new synthetics were also thought to be disposable. Rapid obsolescence was a fundamental characteristic of product design in the US in the 1950s, and clothing was no exception. This phenomenon attracted critics like the author Vance Packer, whose book The Waste Makers was published in 1961. These fabrics were also quite popular in socialist countries.

Jumpsuits: Stretch nylon jumpsuits, PVC boots, and uniform insignia were made popular by television shows like Star Trek (from 1966) and The Avengers (1961-1969). The jumpsuit was unisex, usually made from synthetic materials, and thought to be highly utilitarian. It permitted the body to move freely, so it was perfect for the high kicks and karate moves characteristic of the Emma Peel character in The Avengers. The body stocking and cat suit were closely related. (The Avengers is available for streaming on Amazon Prime. Here’s a clip from Emma Peel’s first appearance on the show.)

Future Shocked

COLD WAR FASHION: THE EARLY YEARS (1950s - 1960s) - Cold War (5)

By the end of the 1960s concerns about over-consumption, militarism, and the environment were front and center. Gone was the space age optimism of the mid-1960s. This was now replaced in fashion by references to hippie and protest culture, flower power, and the dress codes of marches and ‘sit-ins.’ Reflecting the new reality, in 1970, Alvin Toffler’s book Future Shock hit the bookstores, with its fear of rapid technological change, the breakdown of the family, and the loss of social cohesion. He used some of the fashions of the decade – miniskirts, PVC boots, paper dresses – as signifiers of social decline. Along with other contributors, futuristic fashion lost its sheen. (Photo by duch*ess Flux on Flickr.)

What about fashion in the Soviet Union? Did it reflect the same trends?

In the end, fashion was a trait that was shared by the two superpowers. Russian ethnic prints, pushed in propaganda by the Soviet Union, managed to become popular in the West, and a strong black market was successful in the East. Levi jeans were especially in demand.

After 1956, Soviet magazines could report on Western fashions, new fashion stores opened, and regular fashion and trade shows were held, all in an attempt to create a Socialist counterpart to Western consumer capitalism. Although this is interesting, it’s a story for another day.

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Featured photograph by Nick Maroulis on Flickr.

COLD WAR FASHION: THE EARLY YEARS (1950s - 1960s) - Cold War (2024)

FAQs

What was fashion like during the Cold War? ›

In the end, fashion was a trait that was shared by the two superpowers. Russian ethnic prints, pushed in propaganda by the Soviet Union, managed to become popular in the West, and a strong black market was successful in the East. Levi jeans were especially in demand.

What were the 3 big fashion ideas of the 1960s? ›

OVERVIEW. Fashion in the 1960s became progressively more casual across all genders and ages. Womenswear followed three broad trends: a continuation of the previous decade's ladylike elegance, the youthful styles of Mary Quant and the Space Age influence, and the late 1960s “hippie” style.

What were 4 popular fashions during the 1960s? ›

Ponchos, moccasins, love beads, peace signs, medallion necklaces, chain belts, polka dot-printed fabrics, and long, puffed "bubble" sleeves were popular fashions in the late 1960s. Both men and women wore frayed bell-bottomed jeans, tie-dyed shirts, work shirts, Jesus sandals, and headbands.

How did the Cold War effect fashion? ›

Fashion during the Cold War gave people the opportunity to express themselves through what they wore. Due to Communism in other countries such as China, people were neither able to wear what they wanted nor embrace themselves in the latest fashion trend of that season or even year.

How would you describe fashion in the 1950s? ›

Straight stovepipe trousers, velvet-collar jackets, white shirts, colorful socks, suede creeper shoes, and carefully combed-back hair completed the look. In the United States, film stars Marlon Brando and James Dean popularized jeans, white shirts, leather jackets, and greased-back hair.

How did the war impact fashion? ›

War time efforts required manufacturers to be more efficient in the cuts of clothing and type of fabric. Women dress styles were simplified to save on quantities of textiles and certain types of fabrics. Wool became a precious commodiity saved for soldiers uniforms and for knitting socks and sweaters to send abroad.

Why was fashion so important in the 1960s? ›

The 1960s was an important decade for fashion because it was the first time in history that clothing was geared towards the youth market; and featured a wide number of diversified trends. It was a decade that broke many fashion traditions, mirroring social movements during the period.

What was the type of fashion in the 1960s? ›

1960s fashion was bi-polar in just about every way. Bright, swirling colors. Psychedelic, tie-dye shirts and long hair and beards. Woman wore unbelievably short skirts and men wore tunics and capes.

What happened to fashion in the 1960s? ›

As the decade went on, dress codes, even for the older generation, became increasingly relaxed: tailoring loosened, public figures like Jackie Kennedy began to favour shorter skirts, and fewer people wore accessories like hats and gloves. High-end fashion also embraced the new mood of informality.

Who was a major fashion icon of the 1960's? ›

During the 1960s, fashion was colorful, creative, and dynamic. With French icons like Jane Birkin, models like Twiggy, and bombshells like Brigitte Bardot all serving as sources of inspiration.

How did fashion impact the 1950s? ›

By the mid-1950s, women's fashion became more sophisticated, sleek, and slender. The silhouette became softer and straighter with a higher hemline and relaxed waistline. Evening dresses were popular in medium lengths and were often made of wool chiffon or jersey fabrics.

How did 1950s fashion impact society? ›

Fashion in the 1950s saw a clear gender divide. While men and boy's fashion moved towards a more casual day-to-day style, women and girl's fashion prioritized elegance, formality, and perfectly matched accessories.

How did fashion change after the war? ›

By 1947, after WWII was over, the "New Look" began to replace the wartime utility fashions. This new style embraced femininity, with rounded shoulders, shapely bust lines, closely-defined waistlines, slightly padded skirts, and full, billowing skirts that hung just below the calves.

What was the biggest fashion trend of the 1950s? ›

1950's fashion was casual yet formal and elegant. Shoulder lines became more softened, corset waists became smaller, and rounded hips with long skirts became popular. The iconic gray felt poodle skirts emerged with white bobby socks and saddle shoes.

What clothes did the 1950s wear? ›

It wasn't until this decade that the age between child and adult was acknowledged and a fashion more suited to this age developed. Full skirts, tight tops, capris and flat shoes – well suited to jive dancing become iconic for this age. This influenced casual fashions across the age range in both men and women.

What design style was popular in the 1950s? ›

Fabrics with flowers, fruit, and abstract designs were everywhere in the 1950s, as well as bold designs like stripes, checks, stars, and polka dots. Atomic graphics that were inspired by science and space travel, like galaxies, planets, and the notorious “Boomerang” pattern began popping up ubiquitously.

What are the 3 key influences on fashion? ›

Fashion Designing Basics: Factors Influencing Popular Fashion
  • Fashion Forecast (Colour & Fabric) Deciding the colour, fabric and look for the upcoming season is something that every designer works on. ...
  • Movies & Music. The entertainment world is a major influencer of fashion. ...
  • Fashion Stylist. ...
  • Economy of a Country.
Dec 20, 2017

Why was fashion important in history? ›

Fashion history is important because it is a visual marker of societal changes. In ancient Rome and Egypt, clothing was used strictly as a status symbol. In 1890, the French started the iconic fashion trend of haute couture. Many women began wearing androgynous flapper style clothing in the 1920s.

What are 4 factors that influence fashion trends? ›

Factors Influencing Fashion
  • Social Factors.
  • Cultural Factors.
  • Political Factors.
  • Environmental Factors.
  • Psychological Factors.
Jun 22, 2021

What was culture like in the 1960s? ›

The 1960s in American culture was a time of empowerment to battle social injustices such as racism and poverty. In the 1960s, America experienced an optimistic time of hope with plans to eliminate social inequalities, but the decade ended with a failed Vietnam War and the deaths of prominent political figures.

What is a 1960s dress called? ›

The shift became the primary women's 1960s dress style. Skimmer dresses were a cousin of the shift dress. They fit straight on the body with a high neckline and minimal decoration.

What trends were popular in the 60's? ›

Our Ten Favorite Trends From The 60's
  • Afros. Everyone, young and old, had an afro or at least aspired to grow one. ...
  • Barbie Dolls. The sixties witnessed the birth of the Barbie sensation. ...
  • Bell-bottoms. ...
  • Beatlemania. ...
  • Go-go boots. ...
  • Lava lamps. ...
  • Miniskirts. ...
  • Smiley faces.

What clothing brands were popular in the 1960s? ›

1960s Fashion Designers to Look For
  • Biba. George Freston/Hulton Archive/Getty Images. ...
  • Pierre Cardin. French couturier Pierre Cardin with models (his favorite model Hiroko Matsumoto stand on his side) for fashion show in London February 23, 1966. ...
  • André Courrèges. ...
  • Bonnie Cashin. ...
  • Givenchy. ...
  • Yves Saint Laurent. ...
  • Pucci. ...
  • Pacco Rabanne.
Oct 30, 2017

What were clothes like during the Ice Age? ›

Instead, the threads of at least some Ice Age women included caps or snoods, belts and skirts, bandeaux (banding over the breasts) and bracelets and necklaces -- all constructed of plant fibers in a great variety of cloth, from twined and basket wear to plain weaves.

How did the Cold War shape culture? ›

The Cold War was reflected in culture through music, movies, books, television, and other media, as well as sports, social beliefs, and behavior. Major elements of the Cold War included the presumed threat of a nuclear war, annihilation, and espionage.

What was fashion like in the roaring 20s? ›

OVERVIEW. Twenties fashion is often remembered for its glitz and glamour, though underlying this was a move toward simplicity in dress. For women, this meant shorter skirts and simple shapes, while men enjoyed casual suits.

How would you describe fashion in the 1800s? ›

The fashion trend in the late years of the 18th and early 19th centuries was influenced by Classical Greece: high waisted gowns with long thin muslin skirts, heel-less sandals and long stoles. After 1810, skirts gradually became fuller and decorated at the hem with frills and ruchs.

What kind of clothes did early human wear? ›

They made boots, tunics, and other garments out of furs, woven plants, and bark.

What did the first clothes look like? ›

According to anthropologists and archaeologists, the earliest clothing likely consisted of fur, leather, leaves, or grass that was draped, wrapped, or tied around the body. Knowledge of such clothing remains inferential, as clothing materials deteriorate quickly compared with stone, bone, shell, and metal artifacts.

What did humans wear in the Ice Age? ›

When the first humans migrated to northern climates about 45,000 years ago, they devised rudimentary clothing to protect themselves from the cold. They draped themselves with loose-fitting hides that doubled as sleeping bags, baby carriers and hand protection for chiseling stone.

How did the Cold War shape impact American society? ›

The Cold War affected domestic policy two ways: socially and economically. Socially, the intensive indoctrination of the American people led to a regression of social reforms. Economically, enormous growth spurred by industries related to war was aided by heavy government expansion.

What are 3 defining characteristics of the Cold War? ›

Three key features defined the Cold War: 1) the threat of nuclear war, 2) competition over the allegiance (loyalty) of newly independent nations, and 3) the military and economic support of each other's enemies around the world.

How did war shape society? ›

Yet the effects of war are not only felt directly in the present day, but extend indirectly from well into the past Wars have brought about social changes such as women's suffrage, political upheavals such as the Bolshevik Revolution, or technological innovations such as the jet engine and modern air travel.

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