Contouring Can Work In Real Life, You Just Need To Know How (2024)

There's something about the word 'contouring' that instils fear in even the most make-up savvy among us – and if the concept of cheekbone-chiselling breaks you out in a sweat, frankly, it's understandable.

While the Kardashians and their glam teams – think the talented Mario Dedivanovic and Joyce Bonelli – make contouring look strikingly effective on Instagram, it's true the technique doesn't always translate well into real life. Turns out, the soft-focus filter of your camera lens can make a contoured face look a lot more flattering than the harsh reality of your neon office lighting.

What's more, knowing exactly how to wield a contour kit correctly – what products to use and the tones to go for – is a tricky thing for the most accomplished of make-up users.

But a killer contour can be transformative: when done subtly and stealthily, you can define your cheekbones and lift your entire face, creating structure to rival the 1990's supers in a few strategic strokes.

Here, Bobbi Brown Pro Artist, Zara Findlay, reveals the trade secrets.

How to contour: the tone

When it comes to contouring, so many of us fall at the first hurdle – and understandably so. Finding the right tones for a believable contour is tricker than it may seem: not only do you need to select the right shade, but you need to find the right balance of warm and cool undertones, too.

According to Findlay, the best colours for contouring will depend on the end result you’re hoping to achieve. ‘If you want more definition, pick a cool-toned colour,’ she says. ‘However, if you’re going more for sun-kissed warmth, opt for a warmer tone. Don’t be afraid of picking a colour much deeper than your skin tone as this will create more definition – just make sure to only use a small amount.’

How to contour: the texture

It’s hard to believe that, not so many years ago, the dominant make-up texture was an air-whipped mousse. Now, there are plenty of brilliant formulas out there for creating hyper-realistic, seamless base looks – no cakey lines in sight. So, which ones are best for contouring? Really, it depends on your skin type, and how sharp you want your cheekbones to be.

'A cream contour is better for someone with a normal to dry complexion and a powder contour is better for someone with a normal to oily complexion,' says Findlay. What’s more, a cream contour stick will generally be easier to apply and blend, so is a good idea for any nervous newcomers.

A powder, on the other hand, offers higher impact and longevity: ideal for big nights out. ‘A cream contour is better if you want a dewy, more natural finish to the skin and a powder contour is better if you want a more defined, matte finish,’ adds Findlay.

Top tip: If you opt for a palette, rather than sticks, paint each shade on to the skin using a flat brush - the bristles are densely packed together and therefore hold more product than anything fluffier.

The best cream contours

If you consider yourself a pro, reach for a cream contour palette. For those with less of a steady hand, opt for foundation and concealer sticks which are much easier to handle.

The best powder contours

Powder contour products are your best bet if you want extra definition that lasts all day (or all night). The best are virtually weightless and they tend to soak up any oil produced by pores throughout the day – good news for oily types.

Top tip: Be sure to tap your brush to get rid of the excess powder to make blending easier

How to contour: the tools

Wade into the murky depths of Instagram and you’ll find influencers using a whole host of tools to apply their contour – but when it comes to that professional finish, a good old-fashioned brush still wins.

Findlay recommends ‘using a small stippling brush – I use Bobbi Brown’s Full Coverage Foundation Brush or Precise Buffing Brush – for a cream contour as this works perfectly to precisely blend it out, and a soft tapered powder brush like our Sheer Powder Brush to blend a powder contour.’

The best contouring brushes

Forget the blenders, sponges and faffy applicators: the best way to apply a cheek contour is with a traditional brush. These are the ones we always rely on.

How to contour: the pro tricks

You’ve got your tools, now it’s time to carve those cheekbones: take Findlay’s pro tips on board, and you’re well on the way to creating the most professional definition.

Rule number one: don’t draw those sweeping lines on your face, no matter what social media has told you. ‘You only need a small amount of product when contouring, so instead tap small dots on the face,’ advises Findlay. ‘Start on the very tops of your cheekbones (not the hollows) as this will create a more lifted natural look. Then, place a few dots along each corner of the forehead and a very small amount along the jawline. Use a stippling brush (preferably the one you have already used for your foundation as this will blend it out better) and buff the dots in to create a soft, natural contour.’

How to contour: the finishing touch

If you're after razor-sharp face structure, finishing your look with a strategic swipe of highlighter will really seal the deal. Adorn the tops of your cheekbones and the tip of your nose with a light-reflecting cream or powder, and it’ll intensify the light-and-shade effect of your contour, making the high points of your face really pop.

Top tip: If you have darker skin, steer away from shades with yellow undertones to contour with, as they can drain the skin of colour. The same goes for highlighter - pearly, opalescent shades can look ashy on darker skin, whereas warm and reddish tones always look sublime.

The best highlighters to complete your contour

Et voila! Sky high cheek bones for days.