Deep Dive: All About the Wingtip Shoe (2024)

Deep Dive: All About the Wingtip Shoe (1)

Wingtip shoes are a classic look in menswear. They are characterized by a leather overlay on the toe that makes a W shape (or a wing shape). Over the years they have been a popular style of shoe, but they’ve got a long and convoluted history.

Depending on who you ask, the definition of a wingtip shoe might vary. We like to keep things simple, so we consider anything with the W shape on the toe a wingtip. We’lldive into that more in a second.

Wingtip shoes are a statement on their own, usually indicating a certain level of style and knowledge about fashion. After all, wingtip shoes are not usually the first pair of dress shoes a guy buys.

We decided to dig into their roots and give some tips on how they should be worn.

What the heck is a wingtip shoe

Brogue shoe vs. wingtip shoe

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This can get a little confusing.

Wingtip shoes are often referred to as brogues because a “full brogue” shoe incorporates a perforated wingtip shape on the toe. However, calling all wingtips “brogues” is not always technically accurate.

“Brogueing” refers to the perforated detailing on shoes. Sometimes those details are just on the toe, and sometimes they’re around the whole shoe. A brogue shoe does not always incorporate that wing shape.

Deep Dive: All About the Wingtip Shoe (3)

Further, not all shoes with the wing shape are perforated. If there is no brogueing, the wingtip shoe is technically called an “austerity brogue.” We think it’s a bit confusing to call a shoe with no brogueing a “brogue shoe,” so we just call it a wingtip.

In essence, sometimes wingtip shoes have brogue detailing, and sometimes they don’t. Sometimes brogue shoes have a wingtip design, and sometimes they don’t. They are not always one in the same.

We think it makes the most sense to call any shoe with the wing shape a wingtip. Clear? Clear.

The origin of the brogue

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Brogue shoes date back to the 16th-17th century, originating from the Galeic word “brog,” which literally means “shoe.”

The perforations were added to thick, leather shoes in Scotland and Ireland to allow water to pass through as they were wading through boggy terrain. It was not acceptable to wear them anywhere other than in the countryside.

As is the case with many fashion trends, eventually the city folk caught on, and brogueing became an aesthetic choice rather than a functional one. What once was strictly a work shoe became a fashion statement.

The origin of the wing shape itself isn’t well known, but it’s assumed that the original function was as a reinforced toe cap which was stylized a little later on.

The Prince of Wales was seen sporting full brogues during a golf trip in the early 1900s, solidifying their place in the men’s fashion world. Later, we’d see other major cultural icons wearing the style, like Elvis Presley.

Today, they have their place on many men’s shoe racks, functioning as a crossover between dressy and casual footwear.

Tips on wearing wingtip shoes

While we don’t suggest that a wingtip shoe should be your very first pair of dress shoes, it is an excellent addition to any man’s wardrobe.

It’s not a formal shoe

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Because a wingtip requires the overlay of leather to make the wing shape, it’s bulkier than most other types of shoes. This by default makes it a more casual shoe than many other leather shoes.

In fact, the more ornamentation a shoe has on it, the less formal it typically is. A full brogue--which has the wingtip design as well as brogueing details across the entire shoe--is the most casual of the bunch. Avoid wearing them to formal events or galas.

But they’re not strictly casual either

Just because the wingtip isn’t a formal shoe doesn’t mean it can’t be dressed up. We love it as a date night shoe or even as a wedding shoe for a guest. It can also be worn quite casually, making it particularly versatile.

Consider the colour

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As is the case for most attire, a lighter coloured shoe is more casual, and darker is dressier. A dark brown or black wingtip shoe can easily be worn with most business suits. A lighter brown leather or suede wingtip looks extra slick with jeans or chinos.

Avoid wingtip shoes with different colours of leather unless you really want your footwear to be the main attraction.

Balance the weight

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The chunkiness of the wingtip shoe is crucial to how dressy or casual it is. An English pair is usually bulkier, and Italian wingtips are usually a bit more sleek. Make sure the weight of your trousers is evenly matched. In most cases, a super skinny jean isn’t ideal, nor is a dress pant on the tighter side. Aim for a relaxed trouser, and make sure the hem sits right at the top of the shoe.

Where to wear wingtip shoes:

  • At the office
  • Dinner dates
  • Business lunches
  • Job interviews
  • As a wedding guest
  • Market strolls
  • European vacations
  • co*cktail events

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So there you have it. What started as a purely functional shoe for wading through the bogs of Scotland and Ireland has evolved into the stylish, multi-purpose, footwear we have today. Check out our selection of wingtips and other footwear here.

Greetings, aficionados of men's footwear! I'm here to shed light on the fascinating realm of wingtip shoes, drawing upon my extensive knowledge and passion for men's fashion. I've delved into the intricate details of wingtip shoes, brogues, their historical origins, and the nuanced art of donning these iconic pieces. Let's dive into the intricacies of this timeless style.

First and foremost, wingtip shoes are a hallmark of classic men's fashion, recognized by the distinctive W-shaped leather overlay on the toe. Now, when we talk about wingtip shoes, we inevitably encounter the term "brogue." The relationship between wingtips and brogues can be a tad perplexing. While wingtips often fall under the broader category of brogues, not all wingtips are technically brogues.

Broguing, referring to the perforated detailing on shoes, can be present either solely on the toe or throughout the entire shoe. A full brogue incorporates the wingtip design along with broguing details across the entire shoe. However, if the wingtip lacks broguing, it's technically termed an "austerity brogue." To simplify matters, I advocate for the umbrella term "wingtip" for any shoe featuring the distinctive W shape on the toe.

Now, let's delve into the historical roots of brogue shoes, which trace back to the 16th-17th century, originating from the Gaelic word "brog," meaning "shoe." Originally designed for functional purposes in the rugged terrains of Scotland and Ireland, the perforations allowed water to pass through during wading. Over time, what was once strictly utilitarian transformed into a fashionable choice among city dwellers.

The wing shape itself has a less documented origin, likely originating as a reinforced toe cap. Its style gained prominence when the Prince of Wales was spotted sporting full brogues in the early 1900s, solidifying their position in men's fashion. Icons like Elvis Presley further popularized the style, leading to its present-day status as a versatile choice bridging the gap between formal and casual footwear.

Now, for those eager to embrace the sophistication of wingtip shoes, some crucial tips are in order. While not your first pair of dress shoes, wingtips are a statement piece. They strike a balance between formality and casual flair. The chunkiness of wingtips inherently makes them less formal, and the level of ornamentation plays a role too. A full brogue, with intricate details, leans more towards casual wear.

Consider the color carefully; darker hues like brown or black lend themselves to formal occasions, while lighter shades add a casual touch. The weight and sleekness of wingtips also play a role in determining the overall formality. English wingtips are bulkier, offering a more casual vibe, while Italian wingtips are sleeker.

When and where to wear wingtips is a crucial aspect of mastering this style. They are suitable for a range of occasions, from office settings and business lunches to dinner dates and weddings. The key is to strike the right balance with your outfit, ensuring the overall look is cohesive and polished.

In conclusion, the journey of wingtip shoes from functional footwear in Scottish bogs to a stylish, multipurpose accessory is truly remarkable. Embrace the legacy, explore the nuances, and step confidently into the world of wingtip shoes. Explore our curated selection of wingtips and other footwear to elevate your style game.

Deep Dive: All About the Wingtip Shoe (2024)
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