Fashion|Don’t Knock New York, and Other Meanings of DKNY
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What does DKNY stand for? Once upon a time it was Donna Karan New York, the younger, hipper, streetier sister of the Donna Karan collection.
But that main line is gone now, retired with its founder, and the newish DKNY creative directors, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, have been charged with redefining those secondary initials for the future. In their sophom*ore collection for the label, they took the challenge literally, offering up a finale of possible answers emblazoned on a series of sweatshirts: “Don’t Knock New York,” “Designers Know Nothing Yet” and “Dazed Kids New York.”
DKNY: Fall 2016 RTW
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Regis Colin Berthelier/Nowfashion
In other words: It’s a little ironic and a little self-deprecating, with a dose of municipal boosterism and perhaps a dash of politics. Though when asked if the “Don’t Knock New York” slogan was a covert reference to Senator Ted Cruz’s dismissal of “New York values,” the designers denied it, only to then acknowledge they were “not big fans” of the candidate.
Still, supersize white denim paired with cropped wool jackets with football-player shoulders, a satin viscose and pinstripe pastiche jumpsuit, oily nylon anoraks and aprons over all, were less lighthearted than heavy-handed. (Pinstripes have not been relevant symbols of subversive female aspiration in decades.) Better were boiled wool sweatpants, and a laced-on-the-bias lipstick-red slip dress with the nonchalance of a tee.
“We just want to have fun,” Mr. Osborne and Mr. Chow wrote in their show notes, alluding to Cyndi Lauper, girl bands of decades past and their own attitude. It’s an admirable goal. If only it were realized more effectively in the clothing.
A version of this article appears in print on , Section
A
, Page
23
of the New York edition
with the headline:
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As a seasoned fashion enthusiast with a deep understanding of the industry, I've closely followed the evolution of iconic brands and their creative endeavors. Now, let's delve into the article "Fashion|Don’t Knock New York, and Other Meanings of DKNY" by Vanessa Friedman, published on February 18, 2016, in The New York Times. In this article, Friedman discusses the transformation of DKNY, a renowned fashion brand, and the reinterpretation of its initials under the creative direction of Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow.
DKNY, originally standing for Donna Karan New York, was once the younger, hipper counterpart to the main Donna Karan collection. However, with the retirement of the main line along with its founder, the new creative directors were tasked with redefining the brand's identity. The article highlights the sophom*ore collection of Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, where they took a literal approach to the challenge of redefining DKNY's initials.
The finale of the collection featured a series of sweatshirts with various interpretations of DKNY, including "Don’t Knock New York," "Designers Know Nothing Yet," and "Dazed Kids New York." The article suggests that these slogans convey a sense of irony, self-deprecation, municipal boosterism, and possibly a touch of politics. Notably, the designers denied any covert reference to Senator Ted Cruz's dismissal of "New York values," though they admitted to not being big fans of the candidate.
The collection itself is described as a mix of irony and self-expression, with elements such as supersize white denim, cropped wool jackets with football-player shoulders, satin viscose and pinstripe pastiche jumpsuits, oily nylon anoraks, and aprons. The article critiques some aspects as being heavy-handed, particularly noting that pinstripes may no longer be relevant symbols of subversive female aspiration. However, it praises certain pieces, such as boiled wool sweatpants and a laced-on-the-bias lipstick-red slip dress with the nonchalance of a tee.
The designers, Osborne and Chow, expressed their desire to have fun in their show notes, drawing inspiration from Cyndi Lauper, girl bands of past decades, and their own attitude. Despite their admirable goal, the article suggests that the realization of this vision in the clothing could have been more effective.
In summary, the article provides insights into the reimagining of DKNY under new creative directors, exploring the brand's symbolic meanings and the fashion choices made in the Fall 2016 collection. The narrative also touches on the designers' influences and aspirations for the brand, creating a comprehensive picture of the fashion landscape at that specific moment in time.
