Drafting a Skirt with Yoke at the Waist (2024)

A skirt with a yoke at the waist looks great and fits well - without darts!

This page shows how to draft a skirt pattern using your skirt block. Remember to finish your skirt with hems and seam allowances!

Drafting a Skirt with Yoke at the Waist (1)

You can use the skirt portion of your basic block pattern to draft any kind of skirt.

But the pattern has darts at the waist, and you may want a look that's a bit more sleek and smooth.

Adding a yoke to the waist allows you to move the dart to the yoke seam, giving a smooth waistline and a decorative touch at the same time.

To draft your skirt yoke, start by drawing a line from the side seam to the center front (or back), just below the point of the darts.

You can make your yoke a little higher or lower, but dart height is the easiest, most direct approach.

Cut along this line to separate the upper and lower parts of the skirt.

Drafting a Skirt with Yoke at the Waist (2)

Drafting a Skirt with Yoke at the Waist (3)

Then - just close the darts!

Closing the waist darts forces the dart into the "seam" between the upper and lower skirt.

The bottom edge will be a bit "bumpy", with a series of straight edges from one side to the other. Just smooth that out and draw a nice curve at the bottom edge of the yoke.

And you have a waist yoke for your skirt!

Your skirt will fit exactly the same way it did when you fit your dress block, but without the darts.

You can keep the yoke subtle by just seaming it to the skirt without "fanfare", or you can play it up with stitching (contrast stitching on a denim version will look jeans-like).

You can even cut the yoke in a contrast fabric - think faux leather for the yoke, with faux suede, corduroy, or even wool for the skirt itself.

You have lots of options!

Drafting a Skirt with Yoke at the Waist (4)

Before you create these dress, skirt or blouse styles, you'll need a well-fitting dress block. You cancreate one from a commercial pattern, ordraft your dress blockusing your own measurements.

Once you have your fitted block, create an almost infinite variety of styles using the in-depth tutorial "A Beginner's Guide to Designing Skirts, Blouses and Dresses". Check it out now!

The next step is finishing your pattern, then cutting and sewing your skirt!

You can add a yoke to a full skirt or pleated skirt, too, so take a look at those options.

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Drafting a Skirt with Yoke at the Waist (2024)

FAQs

How to draft yoke waistband? ›

To draft your skirt yoke, start by drawing a line from the side seam to the center front (or back), just below the point of the darts. You can make your yoke a little higher or lower, but dart height is the easiest, most direct approach. Cut along this line to separate the upper and lower parts of the skirt.

What is a yoke waist skirt? ›

A yoke is a shaped pattern piece that forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders or around the hips to provide support for looser parts of the garment, such as a gathered skirt or the body of a shirt. Yoke fabrication was first widely done in the 19th century.

Does a skirt yoke need interfacing? ›

Most definitely interface the outer layer of the yoke. As for interfacing the lining too, that's up to you. I think you'll have to judge based on the desired stability. Since the tweed is loosely woven, you might want to consider a layer of fusible backed by a layer of sew-in or even two layers of fusible.

Can a skirt have a yoke? ›

There are different ways to sew a yoke and this is just one method. You'll notice I'm also incorporating a classic waistband as a way to finish the top of the skirt. In some skirts, the yoke is the top of the skirt and they skip the waistband altogether.

What is a gypsy skirt? ›

For the purposes of this article I will use the term gypsy skirt. The skirt originated with the Romani people, who believed women should cover their lower bodies for modesty. Then, in the Swinging Sixties, it was embraced by women in the hippy movement, who no longer wanted to conform to fashion norms.

What is a mermaid skirt? ›

Noun. mermaid skirt (plural mermaid skirts) A long skirt which is tight-fitting from the waist to below the knees, before flaring out at the bottom.

What type of skirt is most slimming? ›

A-Line Skirts

They are potentially one of the most flattering types of skirts in our roundup due to their ability to cinch in your waist and drape over your hips and thighs — you'll feel fabulous, no matter what your body type!

What are the different types of yoke? ›

Additionally ,the yoke can be beaded ,quilted , embroidered , shirred , smocked , tucked or pleated to enhance the appearance. (Shoulder yoke ) , above. The waistline (midriff yoke) or below the waist line ( hip yoke).

What kind of interfacing for skirt waistband? ›

Fusible interfacing, nonwoven or woven interfacing, and pre-cut interfacing or stiffening work well for regular and contour waistbands. This interfacing may be applied using the fusible "glue" on the interfacing (Figure 2) or by basting the interfacing to the waistband fabric.

How to draft a skirt pattern for beginners? ›

Outline the pattern

Make the ABCD rectangle (figure 1). The AD line is going to be the center front/back fold of the skirt, so you might make it with a dotted line or mark the fold as you prefer. Starting from points A and B down, apply the hip depth and mark the hip line with a dotted line.

What order do you sew a skirt in? ›

The basic steps to sewing a skirt include measuring and cutting the fabric, sewing the side seams, attaching the waistband, inserting a zipper or elastic, hemming the bottom edge, and adding any desired finishing touches such as pockets or decorative details.

What is a difference between yoke and waistband? ›

A yoke is a fitted band at the top of a skirt that takes the place of a waistband. Instead of sitting up around the waist, they fit from the waist down over the hip. (Or, from where ever the skirt in question starts on the hip.)

How to draft a circular skirt? ›

Divide your waist measurement by 4, then draw a curve that is that length from end to end. Cut along that curve, then measure down along both folded edges to the length of your skirt. Draw another curved line between those points, and cut along that. How much fabric do you need for a circle skirt?

What are the steps in attaching the waistband? ›

Attaching the waist band:
  1. Put right sides of skirt and waist band together.
  2. Ease the skirt into place.
  3. Pin, tack into place and machine stitch or backstitch waist band to skirt waist.
  4. Fold the band in half and press; then stitch the two ends.

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