Canadians who purchase cheap fast fashion from online retailers may be exposing themselves to potentially toxic chemicals.
A Marketplace investigation found that out of 38 samples of children's, adult's and maternity clothes and accessories, one in five items had elevated levels of chemicals — including lead, PFAS and phthalates — that experts found concerning.
"People should be shocked," said Miriam Diamond, an environmental chemist and professor at the University of Toronto. Diamond oversaw the lab testing that Marketplace commissioned.
- Watch the full investigation
Lab tests expose toxic chemicals found on new clothes. And how to fight back against overseas fraudsters.
Scientists found that a jacket for toddlers, purchased from Chinese retailer Shein, contained almost 20 times the amount of lead that Health Canada says is safe for children. A red purse, also purchased from Shein, had more than five times the threshold.
"This is hazardous waste," said Diamond.
"I'm alarmed because we're buying what looks cute and fashionable on this incredibly short fashion cycle.What we're doing today is to look [for] very short-lived enjoyment out of some articles of clothing that cost so much in terms of our … future health and environmental health. That cost is not worth it."
Shein, which sells products both under its own brand and from third-party suppliers, sent an emailed statement to Marketplace saying it had removed the purse and jacket from its app, and would stop working with relevant suppliers until the issue was resolved. "We are committed to continuous improvement of our supply chain," the company said.
Marketplace found garments containing elevated levels of chemicals from three fast-fashion retailers: Zaful, AliExpress and Shein.
These companies boast hundreds to thousands of styles updated daily at rock-bottom prices. Tops are available for under $5, sneakers for under $10. Marketplace purchased a kids raincoat from AliExpress for just $6 US.
Lead can cause damaging health effects to the brain, heart, kidneys and reproductive system. Children and pregnant people are more vulnerable, and infants and children are the most at risk, according to Health Canada's website.
Lead is a naturally occurring element that can be found throughout the environment, but Joël Mertens, a product environmental impacts expert at the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, said the levels found in Marketplace's lab results were beyond environmental contamination, or the small amounts clothes are exposed to unintentionally during the manufacturing process.
"There were clearly products that were intentionally using lead and intentionally using it in a way that was well above what should be considered responsible — or even safe," he said.
Mertens explained that lead can be used in textile dye pigments, but there are safer alternatives that can achieve the same results.
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Diamond pointed to the broader concerns stemming from the industry itself, noting that it's not just the consumer that could be exposed to the ill effects of lead; it's the entire supply chain, from mining the lead to shipping the final product.
"If the final product isn't safe for me, it's definitely not safe for the workers that are handling these chemicals to make it," said Diamond.
Health Canada would not give an interview, but in an emailed statement said it "monitors the marketplace and follows up on all identified consumer product risks."
Expert: Current regulations on phthalates not strong enough in Canada
Other articles of clothing contained elevated levels of phthalates, a group of chemicals often used to make plastic more flexible.
A clear tote purchased from Zaful contained enough phthalates, including DEHP, DiNP and DnOP,that Diamond and Mertens suggested Health Canada review the product.
Health Canada restricts some phthalates in children's toys — like DEHP, DiNP and DnOP — to no more than 1,000 parts per million (ppm) each. However, it is unclear if it would be considered a children's product.
Health Canada has proposed to ban DEHP in all products bought and sold in Canada, but it is not yet in effect.
Diamond said more attention should be paid to all phthalates, many of which are considered endocrine disruptors, which are chemicals that can interfere with hormones. They can also have developmental effects, and target the liver and kidneys, with particular concerns about its effect on people in their reproductive years, she said.
After notifying Zaful of the lab results, the company wrote in a statement that it is recalling the clear tote purse and sending customers who purchased it a refund.
In addition to the tote purse, Diamond flagged elevated levels of phthalates in a children's tutu dress from Shein, a children's dress featuring Elsa from the movie Frozen from AliExpress, the red purse purchased from Shein, a children's raincoat set from AliExpress and a set of plastic bibs from AliExpress. None exceeded Health Canada's limits.
But Diamond still has concern, particularly with the tendency for children to suck on clothing or put it in their mouths. Children's skin also can absorb chemicals easier than adults' skin, she said.
After informing retailers of Marketplace's investigation, Shein, Zaful and AliExpress removed all questionable products from their sites. The companies confirmed they would be investigating further, and taking action against suppliers and sellers if necessary.
Health Canada addressed the tote in an emailed statement, writing that the presence of phthalates doesn't always mean a risk. The regulator suggested that unless a toddler under age four is sucking on the purse for more than three hours on a daily basis, the purse is not a significant source of exposure to phthalates.
WATCH |Marketplace finds toxic chemicals in some ultra fast-fashion items:
Toxic chemicals found in some Shein, AliExpress and Zaful clothes
Some scientists are calling for stronger regulations on phthalates in Canada. Unlike the European Union, where the combined amount of phthalates is considered in regulations, Canada restricts each phthalate individually.
"The question naturally arises that combined exposures are possible," said Eva Pip, a biologist and professor at the University of Winnipeg. "You can't have more than 1,000 [ppm] of any individual [phthalates] they list, but you could theoretically have 900 [ppm] of each of them together and still be okay."
In 2021, Health Canada published a document stating that the combined exposure of phthalates to the Canadian environment is "below the levels that are expected to cause death to organisms."
Pip thinks this needs to change. "Given the fact that these chemicals are hormone and developmental disruptors, death [to organisms] is a pretty extreme criterion to determine harm," she said.
Unnecessary forever chemicals found in rain gear
The scientists also tested for PFAS, a collection of fluorinated compounds commonly used in clothing for waterproofing and stain resistance.
Many PFAS are known to be endocrine disruptors, and all are considered "forever chemicals" because they aren't flushed from the body and don't break down in the environment.
Potential harmful effects include "increasing obesity to impairing immune function to different types of cancers to even diabetes,'' Diamond said, noting: "This is a class of chemicals that should not be used unless they're absolutely essential."
A raincoat purchased for $13.21 US from AliExpress contained high levels of PFAS, said Diamond.
Health Canada prohibits the sale and import of any products containing particular fluorinated compounds, including the type CBC tested for, with the exception of products containing trace amounts of the chemical. However, the regulator doesn't specify what a trace amount would be.
"This creates a huge loophole," said Pip. "The manufacturer can claim that presence [of PFAS] in the product is incidental."
When reviewing the amount of PFAS found in the AliExpress raincoat, Pip said: "It is hard to imagine this is an incidental amount."
When CBC brought the lab results to AliExpress, the company removed the raincoat from its online marketplace, confirming that it would be investigating further.
In addition to affecting human health, the chemicals assessed can enter the environment through laundering. A 2019 study from B.C.'s Ocean Wise found that up to 4.3 million microfibres can be shed in just one load of laundry.
Mertens suggests PFAS are not essential, and there's suitable alternatives easily available, such as wax for water repellency, or newer, degradable chemical compounds with similar effects.
"This is actually one of the areas that the industry has been focusing on, especially leading players in the industry, is phasing out PFAS compounds for alternatives," said Mertens.
Health Canada initially told Marketplace it has "identified concerns with PFAS and actively monitors the evolving science related to these substances." With the products that concerned experts, the regulator confirmed it will "assess compliance and take immediate action as appropriate." Ultimately though, the regulator said it is up to companies to provide safe products to Canadians.
So you still need new clothes. Here's what to do
Mertens says that while the fashion supply chain is complicated and spans many countries, the onus is on the brands themselves to oversee the process so it eliminates unnecessary chemicals.
"There are many, many organizations and groups out there that can help any brand or manufacturer navigate this space. Nobody really has an excuse to say, 'Well, I just don't know how to tackle it,' including small brands."
Mertens suggests consumers look for brands that complete product safety compliance through organizations like Oeko-Tex or Bluesign, which set restricted substances limits in each article of clothing based on progressive international regulations, like the EU's REACH, which sets safe levels of certain chemicals in clothing.
And if you already own the garments? Diamond says some chemicals can wash out of clothes.
However, she adds, "In the long term, you know, I just don't want to buy it."
FAQs
Just how much risk is still not clear, but toxic chemicals have been found in hundreds of consumer products and clothing bought off the racks nationwide. Thousands of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances, or PFAS, exist since the first ones were invented in the 1940s to prevent stains and sticking.
Are there toxic chemicals in clothes? ›
Just how much risk is still not clear, but toxic chemicals have been found in hundreds of consumer products and clothing bought off the racks nationwide. Thousands of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances, or PFAS, exist since the first ones were invented in the 1940s to prevent stains and sticking.
What is the bad news about Shein? ›
A bipartisan group of lawmakers urged the SEC to crack down on Chinese e-commerce giant Shein ahead of its possible U.S. IPO. The fast-fashion brand is under fire for allegedly selling clothes made by forced labor in China. “We have zero tolerance for forced labor,” a Shein spokesperson told CNBC.
Is it safe to buy from Shein? ›
Thousands of online shoppers and fashionistas want answers to the same question: Is SheIn legit? While plenty of online reviews say otherwise, the short answer is: Yes. SheIn is a legit clothing brand, but you should always shop with caution.
Does washing clothes get rid of lead? ›
If you are exposed to lead and your employer does not launder your clothing, you should take the clothing home in a plastic bag and put the clothing directly into the washing machine. You should use detergents to remove lead. Other clothing should not be washed with the work clothing.
Are new clothes sprayed with chemicals? ›
For starters, new clothing is often treated with stain repellents, color fasteners, anti-wrinkle agents, softness enhancers, and any number of other chemical treatments and finishes, which can irritate the skin.
What is the least toxic fabric to wear? ›
Buying organic cotton not only reduces the number of toxins you breathe and expose your skin to, but can lessen the amount of pesticide chemicals released into the water supply when washing your clothes. Other good fabric alternatives to look for are silk, flax, wool, and tencel (made from sustainable wood pulp).
Does your skin absorb chemicals from clothes? ›
Chemicals used in textiles can enter your body in several ways: Absorption through the skin. Your skin is the biggest organ of your body, and every time you put your body in contact with fabric that contains chemicals of concern, the permeable layer that is your skin absorbs chemicals.
What removes chemicals from clothes? ›
Sprinkle one small-sized box of baking soda (or 1 cup) into the washing machine. Soak the clothes overnight. When convenient during the soaking, agitate the machine for a few minutes. Launder as usual.
Why do people not use Shein? ›
They use harmful materials. One of the reasons Shein can offer such cheap clothes, is because they use a lot of synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon. You can get rid of your fast fashion pieces after one season, but clothing made from polyester take 20 to 200 years to decompose.
Shein is owned by parent company Nanjing Lingtian Information Technology, although the company's ownership is frequently branded a mystery. It remains a private company, with four major shareholders so far: JAFCO Asia, IDG Capital, Sequoia Capital China, and Tiger Global Management.
Why are people boycotting Shein? ›
The pressure to comply with the immense output demanded by Shein falls squarely on the shoulders of exploited Chinese garment workers. The company has violated Chinese labor laws, forcing 75-hour work weeks on its employees, far over the 40-hour legal limit.
Why are clothes from Shein so cheap? ›
By outsourcing labor, clothing retailers can cut costs and boost profits by paying workers less. And, when labor costs are cut, product costs can be cut, too, leading to super affordable clothing. In short, Shein produces its clothes in generic wholesale factories to keep its costs at a minimum.
What country is Shein clothing from? ›
The business model works like Amazon—a sprawling online marketplace brings together about 6,000 clothing factories in China under Shein's label, while internal management software collects near-instant data about which items are selling and which aren't to visibly boost the popular items.
Where does Shein get their clothes from? ›
The company mainly sourced its clothing from China's wholesale clothing market in Guangzhou. However, Shein became a fully integrated retailer in 2014 when it secured its supply chain system. Now, the company utilizes a network of manufacturing partners and suppliers to make and deliver its products.
Does regular soap remove lead? ›
While washing with soap and water is often a sufficient means of removing lead residue, there are more efficient cleaning products that can almost completely eliminate lead content from your skin. Decontamination towels, for example, remove 98 percent of lead residue from skin.
Can vinegar clean lead? ›
How to deal with lead stains. If the stains are not too severe, they can be removed with a mild acid solution – vinegar or lemon juice work well. Use a nylon brush or very fine wire wool. Use our specially developed lead cleaner and restorer and remove the stains with a nylon brush or scourer.
Is it OK to wear new clothes without washing? ›
02/5New clothes are home to pathogens and germs
In this entire process, your new garment might have come in contact with several pathogens and germs. You cannot see these microscopic organisms but that does not mean that they do not exist. So, it is better to clean your clothes before donning them for your own safety.
Should I wash new jeans before wearing them? ›
One of the most common questions after getting a new pair of jeans is whether you should wash them before wearing. The answer is YES, with the exception of raw denim. Washing jeans before wearing them the first time helps to prevent dyes from bleeding onto your skin and other clothes.
Is it okay to wear clothes you just bought? ›
“It's always in your best interest to wash clothing before wearing,” he says. Nilsson agrees, saying washing new clothes “reduces the content of chemicals,” especially residual chemicals that may be left over from the manufacturing process.
Wool and specially treated cotton clothing are fire-resistant and comfortable. Heavy fabrics protect against cuts and bruises from heavy, sharp or rough materials. Leather guards against dry heat and flame. Rubber protects against acids and chemicals.
What are the safest clothes to wear? ›
Opt for organic cotton instead, or materials like hemp and linen, which require little to no pesticides in the growing process. These materials are also better for your body because they allow your skin to breathe naturally, unlike clothing made from synthetic fabrics like polyester which can lead to skin irritation.
How can you tell if clothes have lead in them? ›
After laundering, clothing can be tested with the D-Lead® test kit for lead dust (for procedure, see: www.esca-tech.com). If the test is positive, it maybe necessary to re-wash; add additional detergent to wash cycle, or switch to a detergent formulated to remove lead and metal dust.
How do you wash clothes without toxins? ›
Six steps to cleaner laundry and indoor air; all natural laundry products
- Try vinegar instead of fabric softener. ...
- Ditch your dryer sheets. ...
- Opt for a “clean” laundry detergent. ...
- Make your own laundry detergent. ...
- Ventilate your laundry room. ...
- Leave the lid open.
Your skin is the largest organ of your body and since it is porous, it absorbs whatever you put on it. A study published in the American Journal of Public Health looked into the skin's absorption rates of chemicals found in drinking water. It showed that the skin absorbed an average of 64% of total contaminant dosage.
Does washing your clothes help with toxins on clothes? ›
Washing all clothes before the first wear can be helpful in eliminating some of the chemicals used in production, but just like you can't fully “remove” the pesticides by washing a non-organically grown vegetable, you can't remove all the toxins and synthetics from a piece of clothing with a cycle in the washing ...
How do you detox clothes? ›
It can take a long time to detoxify clothes fully, especially if fabric softeners have been used. Just keep washing and sunning them. Sunning is KEY! For the Chemically Sensitive: To protect those recovering from illness from the fumes that may be generated when drying these clothes, ventilate the laundry room.
Does vinegar remove chemicals from clothes? ›
The acetic acid in distilled white vinegar is so mild that it will not harm washable fabrics. Yet it is strong enough to dissolve residues (alkalies) left by ingredients in soaps and detergents. Adding just 1/2 cup of vinegar to the final rinse will result in brighter, clearer colors.
How much does Shein pay their workers? ›
The documentary reported Shein garment workers are paid as little as four cents per clothing item in work shifts that can last up to 18 hours.
Is H&M fast fashion? ›
With more than 5,000 stores worldwide, H&M is one of the many fast fashion companies known for copying high-end fashion, rapid clothing turnover, unsustainable practices including the use of harmful chemicals in its products, as well as inhumane working conditions.
It's no secret that Zara is one of the largest fast-fashion brands on the planet. And much like all fast fashion's major players, the way they are treating their workers in the supply chain is as terrifying as their blatant environmental negligence.
What brand is the same as Shein? ›
See how SHEIN compares to similar products. SHEIN's top competitors include Lazada, Verishop, and Wish. Lazada is a Southeast Asia-focused eCommerce retailer that offers a shopping experience with brands and types to choose from, such as mobile phones, tablets, home appli…
Is Shein a Chinese owned company? ›
Shein, which was founded by Chinese entrepreneur Chris Xu, initially created a cult following for its fast-fashion apparel and has since branched out into other offerings, such as home goods.
What did Shein originally sell? ›
He started out by selling wedding dresses online. In 2012, he diversified into womenswear and later changed the brand name to Shein. Today, Shein also offers kid's and men's clothing and ships to 220 countries around the world.
What unethical things has Shein done? ›
SHEIN manufactures a tonne of apparel as a fast-fashion company, much of it is produced from synthetic materials that do not biodegrade. Also, the business's manufacturing and shipping methods could pollute the air and water.
What did Shein do to be Cancelled? ›
Shein had previously come under fire for labor violations after a probe in 2021 found that staff had been working 75-hour weeks, violating local labor laws.
How unethical is Shein? ›
Despite gargantuan profits, SHEIN HAS been accused of stealing designs from small independent labels, selling offensive items including Islamic prayer rugs as decorative mats and swastika necklaces, selling items containing unsafe amounts of lead, and forcing garment workers to work in extremely unethical conditions.
Where is Shein warehouse located in USA? ›
If you are from the US and ordering through the app, Shein will automatically get your orders from their warehouse in the US. It is located in Los Angeles. The clothes from their warehouse in Foshan are shipped to their LA warehouse.
What does Shein mean? ›
Jewish (Ashkenazic): nickname or artificial name from Yiddish sheyn 'fine beautiful'.
Are Romwe and Shein the same? ›
Are Romwe and SHEIN the same? Romwe and SHEIN have a lot more in common than just their styles, prices, and business models. Romwe was acquired by SHEIN in 2014.
LU: You know, China these days actually is not regarded as a cheap place to make clothing. Shein - you know, almost 100% is sourced from China.
Is Zulily a legitimate company? ›
So … is Zulily legit? Whether or not you think their policies stink, as far as legitimacy goes, the answer to “is Zulily legit” is yes. All of their fine print is actually pretty transparent and clearly explained on their website, so you shouldn't have many surprises.
What are the lawsuits against Shein? ›
Fast-fashion brand Shein, owned by the China-based company Zoetop Business Co., agreed to settle a copyright infringement lawsuit brought by an artist who claimed the company sold wall paintings containing her art without permission.
Does Shein have a factory in USA? ›
For the US audience, the company sends all of its clothes from the Shein warehouse in Foshan, Guangdong to the one near Los Angeles. Even though the company has a longer delivery time than some of its competitors, their prices and the large collection has kept their audience hooked to the app.
Where do most Shein packages come from? ›
As such, it's easy to see why nearly all of SHEIN's orders are shipped from China—it's simply the most efficient way for them to stay competitive in today's crowded e-commerce landscape!
Where are H&M clothes made? ›
China: main clothing supplier
As seen in the present graph, China, Bangladesh and Turkey are top three locations where H&M sources its products. This is also true for. In Sweden, where the retailer is headquartered, there are a total of 21 suppliers and factories manufacturing H&M's clothing products and accessories.
What are the toxic dyes in fast fashion? ›
Much of the fast-fashion clothing contains Azo dyes, which are a group of cheap dyes that produce strong colors of clothing. These dyes have a carcinogenic effect. That's because our skin can easily absorb it and possibly leading to skin and eye irritation. Phthalates are in jeans, faux leather, and raincoats.
What are toxic chemicals in fashion industry? ›
Some common VOCs are formaldehyde, toluene, ethylene glycol, benzene, methylene chloride, 1,3-butadiene, xylene, and tetrachloroethylene. These chemicals allow for an easy-care finish, such as wrinkle-free products.
What harmful chemicals are in new clothes? ›
Formaldehyde is commonly associated with the "chemical smell" on new clothes. It's linked to many health problems like asthma, nausea, cancer, and dermatitis.
What chemicals are sweatshop workers exposed to? ›
Manufacturing clothes involves using synthetic dyes and fabrics that can cause deadly illnesses such as lung cancer, breast cancer, mesothelioma, or reproductive problems. Textile workers may be directly inhaling toxic chemicals like formaldehyde, arsenic, and cadmium.
Look for GOTS-certified, OEKO-TEX and BlueSign fabrics.
Although there isn't a regulatory group for textile manufacturing, the OEKO-TEX and BlueSign standards focus specifically on eliminating toxic chemicals added during the garment manufacturing process.
What is the most toxic clothing? ›
Polyester is the most dangerous fabric you can buy.
It is obtained from polyester nylon and plastic. It prevents the skin from breathing. Although polyester and nylon fabrics invite influenza infections, they can cause various skin diseases and gynecological diseases.
What is the most unhealthy dye? ›
Multiple studies have found Yellow 5 to cause hives and asthma symptoms. The three dyes most consumed–Red 40, Yellow 5 and Yellow 6–are the dyes most likely to cause systemic allergic reactions. These same dyes also contain the cancer-causing contaminants Benzidine, 4-aminobiphenyl and 4-aminoazobenzene.
What clothing material is the least toxic? ›
Buying organic cotton not only reduces the number of toxins you breathe and expose your skin to, but can lessen the amount of pesticide chemicals released into the water supply when washing your clothes. Other good fabric alternatives to look for are silk, flax, wool, and tencel (made from sustainable wood pulp).
Is cotton toxic to wear? ›
Clothing made from conventionally grown cotton may contain pesticide residues, which are harmful to both the environment and human health. Pesticides are linked to cancer, reproductive problems, and developmental issues in children.
What are the most toxic chemicals ever? ›
Botulinum toxins, exotoxins of Clostridium botulinum, are the most toxic naturally occurring substances known to man.
What clothing material is safe to wear? ›
The Most Skin-Friendly Fabrics
These include cotton (especially organic), merino wool (which is softer than wool thanks to finer fibers), cashmere, hemp, silk, alpaca, and linen.
How do you wash chemicals out of new clothes? ›
Baking soda is one of the first go tos for many people looking to get rid of that chemical smell on their new clothes.
- Fill a bucket or sink with water.
- Add 2 cups of baking soda and soak the clothing overnight.
- Wash the clothing as normal, adding ½ cup of baking soda to the rinse cycle.
In China, per capita output has been doubling every 10 years. In fact, the most vibrant parts of Asia are nearly all in what might be called the Sweatshop Belt, from China and South Korea to Malaysia, Indonesia and even Bangladesh and India.
What companies have the most sweatshops? ›
This includes apparel brands such as Adidas, Nike, Old Navy, and H&M, and electronic brands such as Apple and Dell. Companies such as Forever 21, Ross, and TJ Maxx have been major offenders in regards to utilizing sweatshops located in the United States.
The poisonous ingredient in cloth dye is corrosive alkali. Today it is rare to find this poisonous ingredient in most household cloth dyes. Most common household cloth dyes are made from nonpoisonous substances, such as: Mild soaps.
