When you think of French fashion designers, whose name springs to mind first? Christian Dior? Yves Saint Laurent? Most of France’s most celebrated couturiers are gay men. In fact, you’d probably be hard-pressed to name a French fashion designer who isn’t gay (apart from Coco Chanel!). As this French Slate article explains, gay men have excelled in the art of dressmaking since the early 20th century. While it’s true that haute couture in France traces its origins to two heterosexual designers (Charles Frederick Worth and Paul Poiret), since around WWII, gay designers have dominated the industry.
To continue celebrating Pride Month, we’ve put together a list of the most famous gay couturiers. You’ll learn about the inspirational careers and most iconic designs of classic couturiers like Pierre Balmain, and also discover newer couturiers like Simon Porte Jacquemus and Olivier Rousteing, who are currently reinventing French culture. Finally, you’ll have lots of opportunities to brush up on your language skills with our “Practice your French” tips that allow you to delve deeper into the lives of these revolutionary designers. Want to start off with a little French practice right now? Read “Les 11 plus beaux hommages de la mode à la culture queer” (Fashion’s 11 most beautiful tributes to queer culture”) here!
By Sophia Millman
Christian Dior (1905 – 1957)
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Although he had trained for the French foreign service, Dior began working for the Figaro Illustré in the 1930s. (See his early designs here.) In 1938, he became an assistant designer for Robert Piguet, Paris’s leading couturier. Financed by French entrepreneur Marcel Boussac, Dior created the New Look in 1947, which became a worldwide sensation. Dior went on to create many famous silhouettes (the A-line, the H-line, the Y-line…) and he revolutionized the world of French fashion throughout the 1950s until his death. In 1957, his assistant Yves Saint Laurent (see below!) took over the House of Dior.
- Practice your French: Watch an excellent ARTE documentary called “Les dessins de Christian Dior” here.
- Watch a 1948 video of Dior describing the architecture of his dresses here.
Pierre Balmain (1914 – 1982)
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In 1945, Pierre Balmain founded a legendary fashion house that made his name synonymous with elegance. He designed clothes for stars Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren. He also dressed the duch*ess of Windsor, the Queen of Belgium, and even famous modernist author Gertrude Stein! In episode 4 of “L’Atelier Balmain Podcast” you can learn about his friendship with Stein and her famous partner Alice B. Toklas. Check out images of some of his most celebrated dresses and clients here.
- Practice your French: Listen to a 25-minute-long France Culture episode about a 1954 fashion conference Balmain gave. You’ll find the episode and conference “Comment j’habille mes rêves” (How I Dress My Dreams) here.
- Balmain’s autobiography “My Years and Seasons” is unfortunately out of print, but you can buy a copy here.
Yves Saint Laurent (1936 – 2008)
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Born in Oran, Yves Saint Laurent left for Paris to pursue a career in fashion and attended design school for a short period. When Saint Laurent was only 17, Dior, after seeing some of Saint Laurent’s sketches, hired him as his assistant and protégé. Saint Laurent took over the House of Dior after the designer’s death, and introduced many famous looks including the chic beatnik style. In 1962, Saint Laurent opened his own fashion house, emerging as one of the youngest and most influential French couturiers. He used metallic and transparent fabrics, popularized pants for women, and introduced the haute peasant look. You can read about Saint Laurent’s relationship with his romantic and professional partner, Pierre Bergé, here. The Musée Yves Saint Laurent’s website includes an excellent interactive biography of Bergé and Saint Laurent.
- Watch the trailer for Saint Laurent (2015) here.
- Practice your French: Listen to a radio episode about Saint Laurent and Dior’s relationship here.
- Rent the ARTE documentary “Les dessins d’Yves Saint Laurent” here.
Thierry Mugler (1948 – Present)
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Former ballet dancer and fashion designer Thierry Mugler is known for creating some of the most over-the-top moments in fashion history. From the 1970s until 2002, when he quit the fashion world, the designer established himself as one of the most daring and inventive couturiers of his time. In 1984, he orchestrated Pat Cleveland’s descent from the ceiling of Le Zénith Paris. He also designed the clothes for George Michael’s iconic “Too Funky” music video. In the 1990s, he contributed to the renaissance of haute couture with his innovative collections, grandiose photo shoots, and his staging of spectacular fashion shows. Watch a New York Times interview with the designer here.
- From September 30, 2021 to April 24, 2022 the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris will be exhibiting “Thierry Mugler : Couturissime.” Read about the show and buy a ticket here.
- Practice your French: Read about the evolution of Mugler’s designs–from his first collection, Café de Paris, to his more recent collections–in “Thierry Mugler en 9 collections cultes” here.
- Look at Mugler’s Spring 1992 Ready-to-Wear collection here. A beautiful homage to the world of drag!
Jean-Paul Gaultier (1952 – Present)
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A lifelong lover of fashion, at 13 Jean-Paul Gaultier created a collection of clothing for his mother and grandmother and started working for Parisian designer Pierre Cardin when he was only 18. He opened his first boutique in Paris in 1984 and his product line became an enormous success. Gaultier created some of Madonna’s most iconic looks and also designed costumes for a variety of films including Peter Greenaway’s controversial The Cook, the Thief, His Wife, and Her Lover (1989) and Pedro Almodóvar’s Bad Education (2004). Gaultier was Hermès’s official designer from 2003 to 2011.
- Practice your French: Watch a 1985 5-minute interview with Gaultier here in which he discusses his decision to design skirts for men. You can also listen to a series of podcast episodes about the designer here.
- Check out photos of Gaultier’s Spring 1998 Couture Show here. An iconic moment in queer fashion history!
Christian Louboutin (1963 – Present)
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After a short stint in design school, Christian Louboutin began designing les escarpins (high heels) and sold a few of his creations to the dancers at les Folies Bergères. After doing freelance work for Chanel, Hervé Léger and Maud Frizon, he opened his own brand in 1991 with the help of Henri Seydoux (father of actress Léa Seydoux!). Less than a year after opening his store in Paris, he began receiving visits from celebrities and Vogue’s fashion editor Anna Wintour. In 1995, he became le chausseur (shoe creator) for a variety of designer shows. He has collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzaro, Givenchy, Lanvin, Chloe and Yves Saint Laurent and has also worked with David Lynch on the film Rouge.
- In 2012, Disney commissioned Louboutin to create a modern-day Cinderella-inspired pair of slippers. Practice your French by watching “Cendrillon – Making Of L’histoire d’un soulier” here.
Olivier Rousteing (1985 – Present)
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Oliver Rousteing was adopted when he was an infant and grew up in Bordeaux. He moved to Paris when he was 19 and studied at ESMOD, the world’s oldest fashion school. After graduating, he worked for Roberto Cavalli and then joined Balmain, where he became artistic director at only 25. Rousteing is close friends with Rihanna and has designed clothes inspired by her as well as by Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian.
- Practice your French: Watch a France Inter interview with Oliver Rousteing about his quest to find his biological mother here. The interview is about the biopic Wonder Boy, which you can rent here.
Simon Porte Jacquemus (1990 – Present)
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Born to farmers in rural France, Simon Porte Jacquemus first studied fashion at ESMOD, but left school to become artistic director of Citizen K. Following the death of his mother, he opened his own company Jacquemus (an homage to his mother’s maiden name) at the age of 20. In 2014, he collaborated with La Redoute and was awarded the LVMH Prize a year later. Inspired by Jacques Tati and Picasso, Simon Porte Jacquemus particularly likes to use workers’ clothes as the basis for his designs. Today, he sells his creations in various boutiques in Paris, London and New York. Earlier this month, he announced his engagement to Marco Maestri on Instagram!
- Practice your French: Read an article about how Simon Porte Jacquemus became “le créateur frenchie de référence” here.
- Look at Simon Porte Jacquemus’s collection L’Amour here.
FAQs
Pages in category "LGBT fashion designers"
- Adolfo (designer)
- Ray Aghayan.
- Hardy Amies.
- Jonathan Anderson (fashion designer)
- Paul Andrew (designer)
- Shiki Aoki.
- Murray Arbeid.
- Giorgio Armani.
Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and Roberto Cavalli are all big name men in the fashion industry and they are all straight.
Was Balenciaga a gay? ›
Balenciaga was gay, although he kept his sexuality private throughout his life. The love of his life and his long time partner was Franco-Polish millionaire Władzio Jaworowski d'Attainville, who had helped set him up and fund him.
Does Balenciaga support LGBTQ? ›
Funds raised through the sale of this Balenciaga product will help address the immediate need of ensuring human rights for LGBTIQ people everywhere.
What are 5 major designers from Paris? ›
Christian Dior, Chanel, Lanvin, Hermès, Louis Vuitton — these globally-renowned institutions are uniquely French luxury fashion houses that all had their beginnings in Paris, and they were all founded by the person whose name they still bear today.
What designer brands are from France? ›
With well-known names and styles like Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Cartier, these French brands have become iconic for producing some of the most luxurious goods on the market, some of which have been going strong for hundreds of years.
Who is the king of French fashion? ›
King of Couture: How Louis XIV Invented Fashion as We Know It - The Atlantic.
Who designs Louis Vuitton men? ›
Pharrell Williams succeeds Virgil Abloh as the head of men's designs at Louis Vuitton.
Which fashion designer changed gender? ›
By India Today Web Desk: Fashion designer Saisha Shinde, formerly known as Swapnil Shinde, opened up about undergoing body feminisation surgery in her new Instagram post. She took to the social media platform and shared pictures of herself clad in a printed dress before and after the surgery.
What do you call a straight guy who dresses like a girl? ›
Drag Queen: A biological male, usually gay-identified, who wears female-designated or “feminine” clothing.
Within a short time, Paris became the thriving hub of the fashion world, while the French designers' pieces were replicated around the world.
Who is the father of French fashion? ›
NEW YORK, NY -- Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895), known as the “father of haute couture,” was the dominant figure in French dressmaking in the late 19th century.
What is the most famous clothing brand in France? ›
The top Paris fashion brands, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel, Dior are world famous. Aigle, Armor Lux, Cyrillus, Karl Marc John, Maje, Paul Ka, Petit Bateau and Zadig & Voltaire are lesser known brands illustrating the French touch mixing elegance, design and sustainability.
What did Balenciaga did to kids? ›
The campaigns
One of the ads showed kids posing with teddy bear-shaped bags. The problem was that the bears were wearing bondage outfits. One of the teddy bears had studs on it, while the other in fishnets and leather belts had “bruised-like” eyes with a chain locked on its neck.
What is Balenciaga apologizing for? ›
Balenciaga Designer's Apology Slammed After Scandal—'Clearly A PR Piece' Culture Apology PR Fashion. The designer behind the controversial Balenciaga ad campaign that involved children and "BDSM" gear has been slammed after his recent apology fell flat.
Why did they throw away their Balenciaga? ›
Thousands of social media users said the gift campaign was “inappropriate” and promoted child sexualization. As the controversy grew, users on TikTok began to go viral for throwing away or completely destroying their Balenciaga merchandise in protest.
What luxury brands support LGBTQ? ›
LGBTQ-owned fashion and apparel brands
- Automic Gold.
- Gay Pride Apparel.
- Kirrin Finch.
- Private Policy.
- Simple Gay Apparel.
- Souk Bohemian.
- Tomboy X.
- VENVS.
The other office-inspired ad for its campaign with Adidas included a reference to a Supreme Court case on child p*rnography. Since the scandal erupted in November, many have called for celebrities to boycott Balenciaga, a view the majority of Americans polled support.
What does Balenciaga mean in Italian? ›
Balenciaga literally translates to “do what you want” “Do what you want” = “Do what thou wilt”
Is it cheaper to buy Chanel in Paris? ›
Fortunately, both brands have stores in Paris, France – and yes, Chanel and Louis Vuitton bags are much cheaper there than they are in the US. That's because of the VAT (Value Added Tax) refund that you can get when you shop in Paris.
The most popular designer brands that are cheaper in Paris vs the US is the following: Alexander McQueen, Armani, Balenciaga, Balmain, Berluti, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Celine, Chanel, Chloe, Dior, Fendi, Givenchy, Goyard, Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Longchamp, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Valentino, YSL / ...
What is the most expensive French brand? ›
What is Paris most famous clothing brand? ›
23 best French fashion brands to shop for perfect Parisian chic
- Sezane.
- Jacquemus.
- A.P.C.
- Sandro.
- Maje.
- Claudie Pierlot.
- Longchamp.
- Chanel.
Louis Vuitton
The brand's commitment to craftsmanship and quality has helped it remain one of the top luxury French brands in the world for over 150 years.
What is French fashion for men? ›
A polo shirt or button-down shirt, either striped or plain or floral, with a tailored jacket and casual denim jeans or pants is always a great idea. Related. 5 Things Mad Men taught me about life. Smart sweatshirts or turtlenecks paired with a leather jacket are also accepted.
What is French high fashion called? ›
Haute couture (/ˌoʊt kuːˈtjʊər/ ( listen); French pronunciation: [ot kutyʁ]; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design.
What is a French luxury fashion brand? ›
Chanel, Dior, LV, YSL – these names, often just abbreviated to a series of seemingly innocuous letters, invoke powerful images – Paris in the spring, a modern Parisian woman wearing an impossibly chic dress, timeless and elegant couture designs.
Which is more prestigious Gucci or Louis Vuitton? ›
We anticipate that Louis Vuitton is currently considered the most valuable brand in the world, valued in 2020 at $31,720.
Does Pharrell Williams own Louis Vuitton? ›
Pharrell is no stranger to LVMH, the French luxury conglomerate that owns Vuitton. The Japanese producer and designer Nigo, with whom Pharrell launched the influential Billionaire Boys Club, was appointed the creative director of LVMH brand Kenzo in 2021.
Who designs for Gucci? ›
Alessandro Michele grew up in Rome. His father was an Alitalia technician, and his mother an assistant to a movie executive. In the early 1990s, Alessandro Michele completed his studies of fashion design at the Accademia di Costume e di Moda in Rome, where he learned to design both theatrical costumes and fashion wear.
One of the fashion concepts that has become increasingly popular lately is the concept of genderless fashion. It's a style of clothing that is free of masculine and feminine preferences. This style is also known as gender-neutral fashion and is often called the androgynous style.
Who was the first male fashion designer? ›
What we do know is the identity of the first modern fashion designer – Charles Frederick Worth. He was an English gentleman born in October 1825. This man is credited with two important 'fashion firsts' – he was the first to use live models, thus inventing the fashion show.
Who is the woman that dresses as a man? ›
Cross-dresser
This describes a person who wears the clothes usually associated with the "opposite "sex. This is seen as a form of gender expression. The word "transvestite" is not used much these days.
What is it called when a boy likes a boy? ›
straight (heterosexual) – emotionally or sexually attracted to people of the opposite sex or gender. gay – emotionally or sexually attracted to people of the same sex or gender (The term is most often used for a man who's emotionally or sexually attracted to men.)
What is it called when a girl likes a girl? ›
Lesbian: Refers to a woman who is emotionally, romantically, and/or physically attracted to other women. People who are lesbians need not have had any sexual experience; it is the attraction that helps determine orientation.
What is it called when you look like a guy and a girl? ›
[ an-droj-uh-nuhs ] show ipa. See synonyms for androgynous on Thesaurus.com. adjective. neither clearly masculine nor clearly feminine in appearance: the androgynous look of many rock stars. having an ambiguous sexual identity or having both masculine and feminine gender characteristics.
Was Dior founder gay? ›
After years of military and civilian uniforms, sartorial restrictions and shortages, Dior offered not just a new look but a new outlook. Dior never married and there were many rumours and speculation about his sexuality. He was a closeted gay man until his death in 1957.
Who were the best gay costume designers early Hollywood? ›
The three greatest of these designers were Travis Banton, Adrian and Orry-Kelly.
Who are the 2 gay interior designers? ›
Nate Berkus and Jeremiah Brent on the Importance of Being 'Two Gay Dads' on Home Makeover TV: 'We Believe in Opening Up the Doors' Mackenzie Schmidt is the Home and Travel Editor for PEOPLE.
Is Gucci Alessandro Michele gay? ›
Alessandro Michele is openly gay.
Sofia Mechetner was born and raised in Holon, Israel, to parents who immigrated from then Soviet Russia.
Is Dior gender neutral? ›
Gris Dior uninhibitedly combines heritage with a modern twist and plays the unisex card with confidence.
Who is the face of Dior men? ›
After a successful collaboration with the Dior Homme fragrance started in 2012, Robert Pattinson is now the new face of Dior Homme ready-to-wear designed by Kris Van Assche.
Who was the first openly gay Hollywood? ›
Wisecracker: The Life and Times of William Haines, Hollywood's First Openly Gay Star. New York, NY: Viking. ISBN 978-0670871551 .
Who was the gay actor in the 1930s? ›
In the 1930s, actor William Haines refused to hide his relationship with his partner. Haines was contracted with MGM in the 1920s and '30s, while also living with a former sailor named Jimmy Shields.
Who was the gay actor in the 60s? ›
Carmel, Paul Lynde, Charles Nelson Reilly, and other 1960s television stars caught in the lavender closet. In the Pierce biography, From Drags to Riches, John Wallraff writes that Deacon was among the celebrities who came out to watch Pierce perform at the Gilded Cage gay nightclub on Ellis Street in San Francisco.
Who is the famous gay interior designer? ›
Nathan Jay Berkus (born September 17, 1971) is an American interior designer, author, and television personality.
Who is the gay TV home designer? ›
Bromstad is openly gay. He owns a home in Orlando, Florida, which was featured on My Lottery Dream Home: David's Dream Home. He has a "tattoo addiction" and favors designs that speak to his love of family, color, gay pride and Disney.
Who was Drake's interior designer? ›
Since his childhood years, Ferris Rafauli was mesmerised by the world of architecture and design, perpetually drawn to the finer details in life.
What gender is Gucci for? ›
In other words: Gucci, best known recently for putting men in feminine clothes, dressed women in masculine clothes in a menswear-based collection shown during womenswear fashion week on models of all genders.
After WWD first reported that Michele was expected to exit Gucci, and the brand confirmed the split, the designer's parting words were telling, as staying true to his own values and vision appeared to be paramount. “There are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have.
Who turned around Gucci? ›
Following Maurizio's departure, Ford was appointed by Domenico De Sole, the brand's CEO, as Gucci's creative director in 1994 and he quickly transformed the fashion house with his signature style.
