Hair Color 101: Permanent Hair Color from Clairol Professional (2024)

LOOK & LEARN What you need to know to color and style like a pro.
Permanent hair color contains ammonia and is mixed with developer in various volumes in order to permanently change hair color. The ammonia is an alkalizer that opens the cuticle layer, allowing the color molecules and developer to penetrate into the cortex. Once inside, the developer lightens natural pigment and develops the color molecules so they remain permanently in the cortex.
Common uses include:
  • Gray coverage
  • Change color of hair
  • Lightening natural hair color*

*Permanent hair color formula for lightening hair up to 3 - 4 levels must be mixed with double 40-volume developer for maximum lift (remember that a client's natural pigment will affect timing and final results).

Examples of Permanent Hair Color

Clairol Professional liquicolor permanente when a liquid formula is preferred
Clairol Professional crème permanente when a cream formula is preferred
Clairol Professional liquicolor permanente
Comes in 64 shades and is ideal for fast bottle applications, in-between foils, or to quickly apply all-over color to longer or extremely thick hair.

Clairol Professional crème permanente

Comes in 42 shades, and can be mixed with the demi Cool Mix Tone for additional custom formulas. You can put crème permanente into foils using bowl & brush or to apply to isolated sections on head.

Timing

Timing is 30 minutes for standard color application; 45 minutes for maximum gray coverage and for high-lift shades. Typically, with permanent color, the first 15 minutes provide time for the peroxide and ammonia to open the cuticle and penetrate into the cortex to lighten natural pigment. The final 15 – 30 minutes are for additional lightening and dye-molecule development to provide maximum deposit.

Gray/White Coverage

For maximum gray coverage, formulation should include either Neutral or Intense Neutral to provide the missing balance of tones in white hair.
Neutral is a blend of equal parts of all 3 primary colors. It is essential for covering white (non-pigmented) hair because it creates a foundation to replace missing pigment. Using Neutral in a hair color formula ensures coverage and true tones.
Basic gray coverage formulation is based on percentages of gray. Percentage of Neutral in formula matches the percentage of white in hair:
  • 25% white: ½ oz. Neutral shade in target Level plus 1 ½ oz. target shade
  • 50% white: 1 oz. Neutral shade in target Level and 1 oz. target shade
  • 75% white: 1 ½ oz. Neutral shade in target Level and ½ oz. target shade

For natural results and balanced tone, formulate within 2 Levels darker or lighter than Natural Level.

Additional Advice

To remove color, rinse with tepid water, shampoo thoroughly and condition the hair. Towel dry and style as usual.

Apply hair color evenly and thoroughly to thin sections to ensure complete saturation. A section should be fine enough to see through it. If it is too thick, the color will not penetrate through the hair, leaving gas in the color application, commonly called ""holidays.""

Hair color should be applied evenly and thoroughly to the re-growth of previously tinted hair only. Because of the ammonia, hair that has been previously treated with permanent color, lightener or chemical relaxers will benefit from the use of a non-ammoniated, demi color, such as crème demi permanente.

Hair Color 101: Permanent Hair Color from Clairol Professional (2024)

FAQs

How long do you leave Clairol permanent hair color? ›

Timing. Timing is 30 minutes for standard color application; 45 minutes for maximum gray coverage and for high-lift shades. Typically, with permanent color, the first 15 minutes provide time for the peroxide and ammonia to open the cuticle and penetrate into the cortex to lighten natural pigment.

Do you apply Clairol to wet or dry hair? ›

You would want to have damp hair to apply our Clairol Professional Semi-Permanent Hair Color. Towel dried means not dry all the way but not dripping wet. You want it damp but take that extra water out of the hair to allow the hair color to take and absorb into the hair strand.

How much developer to use with Clairol Professional? ›

Mix in a 1:2 mixing ratio with Clairol Professional Pure White 10, 20 or 30 Volume Developer. BW2 or Basic White Extra strength powder lightener. Provides the maximum amount of lightness. Designed for highlighting/ off-scalp lightening techniques.

Do you apply permanent colour to wet or dry hair? ›

"Semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair color can be applied to wet or dry hair, but wet hair application in not recommended for permanent hair color." Meanwhile, permanent color changes require a dry hair application. This could mean going lighter, or darker.

Do you shampoo after dying hair permanently? ›

One of the most important things to remember when it comes to post-dye hair care is that you should always wait at least two full days before washing your hair. Why? Experts recommend waiting this long to give your hair time to properly seal in the new color.

Should I wash my hair before professional coloring? ›

Should You Wash Your Hair Before a Hair Color Appointment? The general rule of thumb is to not wash your hair the day of coloring – or even the day before coloring if your hair washing routine allows. You might hear colorists say a second (or even third) day hair is best.

What happens if you leave semi permanent hair dye in longer than recommended? ›

The longer you leave semi permanent dyes on your hair before rinsing, the longer your hair colour generally lasts. And because of our super conditioning formula, leaving the dye in for longer doesn't damage your hair.

Should I use shampoo when rinsing hair dye? ›

If you're dyeing your hair at home, when it's time to rinse it out, simply use cold water. You should continue rinsing your hair until the water runs completely clear, which signifies that all the dye has been washed out. From there, feel free to shampoo with your typical product and then follow up with a conditioner.

Why do salons wash your hair after coloring? ›

A thorough rinse after the coloring process ensures the removal of any excess chemicals from your hair. This not only prevents potential damage but also encourages the bonding process between the new color and your hair shafts.

Should I comb my hair before dyeing it? ›

Dye your hair like a salon professional

Follow our top tips for the best results: 1. Make sure to gently comb all your hair.

How soon after coloring hair can you wash it? ›

Avoid Washing for 48 Hours

“If you wash it before then, there's a chance the color will fade,” Renegar warns. It also goes without saying that you should avoid getting hair wet in hot tubs or pools, which is even worse!

What happens if I use a 10 developer with a permanent hair color? ›

Use 10 Volume if you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. If the desired result is keeping color at the same color level by simply adding a tone or a tint, this is exactly what you should mix with. It won't significantly lift your base color and is the least damaging to the hair.

What happens if you just put 20 developer in your hair? ›

20volume will give 1-2 levels of lift when used with permanent hair color. It is the standard developer for grey coverage, however, a stronger developer may be needed for more resistant hair types. 20 volume should not be used as a developer for toner or glazes especially when wanting to maintain a natural base.

Is it bad to mix too much developer with hair dye? ›

Using too much developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a unicorn threw up on your head.

Do you rinse out the Clairol semi permanent hair color? ›

There are 15 beautiful Moisturizing Color shades to choose from, ranging from blondes and deep brunettes to reds. For longer-lasting, more vibrant results and enhanced gray blending, cover hair with cap and process under a warm dryer for 10 minutes. Cool 5 minutes and rinse well. Do not shampoo.

Do you have to use developer with permanent hair color? ›

Developer is a vital part of the coloring process. When mixed with hair color, the combination activates, enabling it to penetrate the cuticle and deposit the color into the cortex. Once hair is restored to its proper pH level, the cuticle closes, and the color is locked in for a permanent application.

Do you wash hair dye out with shampoo or conditioner? ›

If you're dyeing your hair at home, when it's time to rinse it out, simply use cold water. You should continue rinsing your hair until the water runs completely clear, which signifies that all the dye has been washed out. From there, feel free to shampoo with your typical product and then follow up with a conditioner.

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