Marketing a fashion show has never been more important. So, at Paris Fashion Week, which wrapped on Wednesday, 108 brands vied for attention from brands, buyers and the public on social media and beyond. While viral moments were all the rage two years ago, strategies are becoming more sophisticated as brands hone in on the unique qualities that help them stand out.
The “experience” of the fashion show is, of course, a big part of the play. “The luxury industry is moving from a product-driven industry to an experience-driven industry, so the question is: What does that mean for each brand?” said Carlota Rodben, futures specialist and former innovation lead at Chanel. “Can an experience, like a fashion show, be sold in and of itself as a product?”
Brands picked up new ways to delve into their brand “worlds” this season.
For example, on February 28, The Row banned phones from its runway show and gave guests notepads and pens to write down their thoughts on the show. The brand also didn’t invite influencers to its show. It finally released images of the collection through a lookbook the following week.
The Row has become known for its understated fashion at exorbitant prices and only has three retail locations in the world. Its Margaux model bag, which is frequently sold out, costs around $8,200. The brand mostly posts art pictures and inspiration on its Instagram, using it as a mood board rather than a place to promote its stores or catwalk shows.
“I thought it was so genius that they didn’t allow phones, which conversely made people talk about it more on social media,” said Candace Marie, a social media strategist and founder of the Black in Corporate racial advocacy organization. “People talked about their own viewpoint on the clothing, and you almost had to take their word for it if you weren’t there.”
The no-phone policy sparked more discourse on Twitter and Threads than many of the photos from other shows that day.
For its part, French fashion brand Coperni —which broke the internet in October 2022 by spraying a dress onto Bella Hadid — opted for scale and pre-show virality this season. The day before presenting its collection, it posted to Instagram a new version of its Air Swipe bag made out of a NASA material called silica aerogel that can be used to capture stardust. It is unclear yet whether the piece is for sale. The video has 4.5 million views.
Coperni has used the Air Swipe bag both as a sales driver and an exhibition piece. A silver mini Air Swipe sells for $629, while a version made out of a meteorite is around $49,000. The brand is known for its fusing of innovation, technology and fashion. Examples include its bags, its robot dogs created with robotics company Boston Dynamic and its spray-on dress, orchestrated in collaboration with textile innovator Fabrican.
“It’s difficult to get your name out there with so many established brands making so much noise,” said Marie. “So brands [like Coperni] are looking to other means to get recognized. Even the bag’s silhouette is recognizable to spectators.”
Louis Vuitton, on the other hand, split its runway into two experiences — one for the masses, with 4,000 people attending, and one more exclusive “inner circle” show for its private clients and celebrities. Redben said dual experiences are a growing trend in luxury, with brands aiming to satisfy high-net-worth clients while also showing up for the public.
The brand has one of the largest global audiences, with 55 million followers on Instagram alone, so it often combines older and newer references in its shows for a wow moment. The fall show, which marked creative director Nicolas Ghesquière’s 10th year at the helm of the brand, referenced his past collections, craftwork and LV iconography while playing out in a giant greenhouse at the Louvre. The brand is known for its travel trunks, which were featured both on the clothes and within the globe-shaped chandeliers in the venue.
Meanwhile, other brands at PFW dug into weird niches to capture attention. Loewe brought its art-focused collection inspired by American artist Albert York alive through TikTok videos featuring Antiques Roadshow expert Steven Moore. Together, the three videos have seen 450,000 views, as of Friday afternoon. The content on the brand’s TikTok is different compared to the more curated visuals on its Instagram.
Loewe has been tying more of its aesthetic to the art world, especially with collaborations. Its reputation for mixing art and fashion extends to the runway, as well, with pieces like this season’s asparagus bag, which was inspired by ceramics. Loewe has worked with sculptor Lynda Benglis for previous seasons’ set design, with Kyoto-based ceramic studio Suna Fujita for its bags and totes, and with Sotheby’s on an art exhibition.
“There are very few brands that understand Instagram versus TikTok and lean into different content on both platforms,” said Marie. “It’s not just about creating the collection, but it’s also about breaking it down on socials in a way that makes sense for each platform.”
Then there was the Japanese fashion brand Undercover, which chose to forgo music altogether, effectively arresting attention rather than trying to overcome the noise.
“[Typically] when the music starts, the show starts,” said Marie. “But music was replaced by storytelling, with a voiceover of the designer talking about a day in the life of a traditional female going to work,” she said. The brand’s DNA focuses on using fashion as a vehicle for contemplation, with its spring 2024 collection featuring trapped butterflies in skirt terrariums.
Marie added, “While a viral moment may hold your attention and get you to follow, the question should be: What is going to keep [the audience] interested during the entire show, and even after?”
