How It Should Fit: The jacket lapels should rest flat against your chest
When you button the top button of your jacket, the lapels should rest smoothly and unbent on your chest. There should be no folds of excess fabric, tension lines, or wrinkles in either the front or back of the jacket where the chest meets the armhole.
The Proper Cloth rule of thumb holds that there should be enough room between your torso and the jacket to allow one hand to fit between them. The goal is to achieve a clean, polished appearance while having fair range of motion.
Perfect Chest Width: Flat lapel, trim silhouette, no tension at the top button.
Chest Width Too Small: Broken or bent lapels
One sign that the jacket’s Chest Width may be too small is if the lapels bend out noticeably at the chest area. This bending is referred to as “breaking.” If the lapels hug the body too closely, the tension between the neck area and the buttoned top button of the jacket will cause the lapel to “break”. The fit will appear shrunken and uncomfortable.
Chest Width Too Small: Bending lapels and pulling at the top button.
Another sign is X-shaped tension lines from the buttoned top button out towards the sides of the torso. If you see these lines, you should also consider increasing the Midsection Width. Because the Chest and Midsection Widths are connected, they must often be considered simultaneously in order to correct the fit in the torso.
Chest Width Too Large: Excess fabric at the armpits
The Chest Width is too large if the jacket appears particularly full near the armpits. You’ll see excess fabric folding where the chest meets the armholes in both the front and back of the jacket.
Chest Width Too Large: Excess fabric at the sides of the chest.
Whether you prefer a slim or relaxed jacket fit, the jacket torso should highlight your silhouette in a ‘V’ shape: wider at the shoulders, gradually tapering down to the midsection. Your body should be complemented by the fit with clean lines around the edges of the garment and few wrinkles on the fabric.
Jacket vs. Shirt Chest Width Measurements: Why are they different?
You may notice that your jacket’s Chest Width measurement is smaller than that of your shirts. That’s because shirts are designed to offer range of motion when you’re going about your daily activities, while jackets are designed to offer a trim appearance when your arms are at rest. Your jacket is meant to fit closer to your body and not necessarily provide wide range of motion, whereas your shirt must leave more space around your body so you can move freely.
Your preference for either a slim or relaxed fit in shirts and jackets will determine just how much these measurements differ. Ultimately the two garments will fit and measure differently in the chest area because they’re designed for different purposes, but they will fit you the way their intended purpose requires.
Local Tailoring: Can a tailor adjust my jacket chest width?
Yes. A tailor can increase the jacket Chest Width by about 0.4” (0.8” in circumference), and reduce it up to 1” (2” in circumference) without affecting the jacket’s structure noticeably. For alterations requiring more dramatic changes to the fit, we recommend contacting our Customer Experience Team for assistance with a remake. More details on tailoring capabilities here.
Related Articles
- How Jacket Midsection Width Should Fit How It Should Fit: Gently hugging your torso A well–tailored jacket should lightly hug your midsection and follow the curve of your back in a smooth, uninterrupted drape....
- How Jacket Bicep Width Should Fit How It Should Fit: Close to the biceps, tapering slightly to the cuff When standing upright with your arms at rest, the jacket sleeves should hug your biceps,...
- How Jacket Shoulder Width Should Fit How It Should Fit: Slightly past your shoulder bones The shoulders of a jacket should highlight your natural silhouette with smooth, uninterrupted lines and a clean drape throughout...
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As a seasoned expert in men's fashion and tailored clothing, my in-depth knowledge and hands-on experience allow me to provide comprehensive insights into the nuances of achieving the perfect fit for jackets. The information I present is not just theoretical; it comes from a deep understanding of the craftsmanship and attention to detail required in the world of men's tailoring.
Now, delving into the specifics of the article you've shared:
1. Jacket Lapels:
- The lapels of a well-fitted jacket should lie flat against the chest when the top button is fastened.
- No excess fabric, tension lines, or wrinkles should be present around the chest and armhole area.
- The Proper Cloth guideline suggests enough room between the torso and the jacket to allow one hand to fit comfortably for a polished appearance and fair range of motion.
2. Chest Width:
- Perfect Chest Width results in flat lapels, a trim silhouette, and no tension when the top button is fastened.
- Chest Width Too Small: Signs include broken or bent lapels ("breaking"), and X-shaped tension lines from the buttoned top button towards the sides of the torso.
- Chest Width Too Large: Manifests as excess fabric at the armpits and sides of the chest.
- The ideal jacket fit should highlight a 'V' shape, wider at the shoulders and tapering down to the midsection, complementing the body's silhouette.
3. Jacket vs. Shirt Chest Width Measurements:
- Jackets are designed for a trim appearance when arms are at rest, while shirts offer more room for daily activities.
- The Chest Width measurement in jackets is intentionally smaller than that of shirts to achieve a tailored fit.
4. Local Tailoring:
- Tailors can make adjustments to the jacket Chest Width, increasing it by about 0.4” (0.8” in circumference) or reducing it by up to 1” (2” in circumference) without significantly affecting the jacket's structure.
- For more dramatic changes, contacting the Customer Experience Team for assistance with a remake is recommended.
In related articles, the discussion extends to other aspects of jacket fit:
- Midsection Width: A well-tailored jacket should gently hug the midsection and follow the curve of the back in a smooth, uninterrupted drape.
- Bicep Width: The jacket sleeves should fit close to the biceps, tapering slightly to the cuff.
- Shoulder Width: The shoulders of a jacket should extend slightly past your shoulder bones, highlighting the natural silhouette with smooth lines and a clean drape.
Understanding these concepts ensures a thorough grasp of how a jacket should fit, allowing individuals to make informed decisions about their wardrobe and the tailoring adjustments needed for a polished and comfortable appearance.
