When it comes to buying a men’s suit, it doesn’t matter if you spend £500 or £5,000; if it doesn’t fit right, it’s going to look bad. So – before you start your suit shopping – here’s what you need to know:
Shoulders
The shoulder pads of your suit jacket should end where your shoulders do. To check you’ve picked the right size, lean against a wall, and if your pads and shoulders hit the wall at the same time, your jacket fits.
When fastening your jacket (top button only), the button should close without any strain. The lapels should lie flat on your chest (not bow out) and you should be able to slide your thumb between the button of the jacket and your stomach without it feeling too tight or loose. In terms of length, the bottom of the jacket should end where your thumb knuckle is.
Arms
The sleeves of a men’s suit jacket should be snug on the arms but not tight. When your arms are by your side, they should show off a half-inch of shirt cuff – no more or no less.
Trousers
The trousers of your suit should fit comfortably around the waist without falling away from your hip. When standing straight, the hem should graze the top of your shoes or have a subtle break.
Discover our selection ofmen’s business suits, including navy suits, black suits, wool suits and more.
View our 'How a Men's Suit Should Fit' infographic here.
As a seasoned enthusiast in the realm of men's fashion, particularly in the nuances of selecting and donning the perfect suit, I bring forth a wealth of firsthand expertise garnered through years of exploration and understanding in this sartorial domain. My passion extends beyond the superficial aesthetics; it delves into the intricate details that truly define a well-fitted suit, an aspect crucial for projecting elegance and confidence.
The importance of a well-fitted suit cannot be overstated, irrespective of its price tag. Now, let's dissect the key concepts highlighted in the provided article, shedding light on the crucial elements that contribute to the impeccable fit of a men's suit.
Shoulders:
The article rightly emphasizes the significance of shoulder fit. The shoulder pads of a suit jacket should align with the natural end of your shoulders. A practical test involves leaning against a wall; if the shoulder pads and your shoulders make contact simultaneously, you have found the right fit.
Chest/Torso:
The buttoning of the jacket is a critical aspect. When fastening the top button, it should close effortlessly without straining. The lapels should lie flat on the chest, avoiding any bowing out. An additional measure is the ability to slide your thumb between the button and your stomach, ensuring a comfortable yet snug fit. The jacket length guideline, reaching the thumb knuckle, further contributes to a balanced appearance.
Arms:
The fit of the sleeves plays a pivotal role. They should be snug on the arms without being overly tight. When your arms hang by your side, a half-inch of shirt cuff should be visible – a subtle detail that adds finesse to the overall look.
Trousers:
Moving down, the article touches on the trousers. A comfortable fit around the waist, without sagging, is essential. The hemline should either graze the top of your shoes or exhibit a subtle break, contributing to a polished and tailored appearance.
By adhering to these fundamental principles of suit fitting, one can transcend the monetary value of a suit and ensure a timeless and sophisticated look. As you embark on your suit shopping journey, armed with this knowledge, you'll not only make a stylish statement but also exude confidence in a suit that fits seamlessly. For a curated selection of men's business suits, including diverse options like navy suits, black suits, and wool suits, the pursuit of sartorial excellence begins here. Explore further insights in our 'How a Men's Suit Should Fit' infographic for a visual guide to mastering the art of impeccable tailoring.
The jacket shoulder should lie flat against your shoulder, following the contours of your body and your shoulder line. The sleeve seam should start where your shoulder bone ends. You should see straight lines - no creasing or divots.
Look out that there isn't any apparent sagging and bunching forming around your back. The fabric should drape down naturally and should not be tight around your waist or back to form horizontal folds. In most cases can be tailored.
You should have just enough room for your hand to go in between your jacket and your shirt. If you have more room – like enough to make a fist under the jacket – the jacket is too loose. It will need to be taken in a bit to best complement your body.
The rule of thumb is that you can go down two sizes at a maximum, but a suit jacket or blazer, only one size too large, is a safer option. The problem is always that jackets that are too large can also be too large on the shoulders, which is a more challenging thing to alter.
A high quality suit jacket is either made of a half canvas or a full canvas. A suit canvas is what sits between the outer suit fabric and the inner lining of a suit jacket. The canvas is made up of canvassing material, usually wool and horsehair or camel hair.
Five basic factors present in every fitting decides whether a garment fits well or not. There are ease, line, grain, set, and balance. These five factors are interrelated. The straight material should be folded into darts or cut into seams to allow enough ease over the curves.
The lapels should lie flat on your chest (not bow out) and you should be able to slide your thumb between the button of the jacket and your stomach without it feeling too tight or loose. In terms of length, the bottom of the jacket should end where your thumb knuckle is.
We always remember one simple suit etiquette rule when wearing a blazer: “sometimes, always, never”. If you have a three-buttoned jacket, 'sometimes' button the top one, 'always' button the middle, and 'never' button the bottom. With a two-buttoned suit, 'always' button the top button and 'never' the second.
Full Range of Motion: A properly fitted suit should allow you to fully raise your arms above your head without any tightness or restriction [1]. This means you should be able to comfortably reach for objects, wave your arms, or perform any necessary movements without feeling constricted.
In general, younger and slimmer people may prefer a tighter fit of their suit, while people a bit older or of bigger build prefer a more generous fit. So depending on the type of person you are (there is no right or wrong!), this could help you decide when on the borderline.
In the front it should hit typically about the thumb knuckle. The best way to tell if a jacket is the right length is by using your hands. Ann appropriate modern length will hit in the middle of your hand, at about where your thumb joint meets your arms hanging at rest for a man and the thumb knuckle for a woman.
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