How to authenticate a vintage watch? (2024)

An authentic watch is undisputed in origin, and not a replica or copy. This means that in order forsomething to be authentic, it has to be 100% backed by something not just real. Every brand has aunique signature which sets apart an authentic piece from a replica.The word authentic is used in the industry to distinguish between genuine timepieces and counterfeits of global players likeRolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and so on that are widely copied and sold.

How to authenticate a vintage watch? (1)

As a buyer, the first step in guaranteeing you get an authentic watch is by always buying directly from the brand or a trusted and reputable auction house which can ensure that the watch is genuine. As an auction house when AstaGuru acquires a vintage watch, our primary task is do is examine theauthenticity of the watch; and as a buyer, you should be doing the same.

How to authenticate a vintage watch? (2)

Pointers that determine the authenticity of a timepiece are as follows:

1. Material: The material, finishing, and colour of counterfeit watches will sometimes be slightly off. Gold watches should also be hallmarked (you can always ask to get the watch tested to be safe).

2. Weight: Counterfeit watches are usually made with cheaper materials and are lighter than the original.

3. Typefaces and engravings: Engravings on fine watches are generally sharper and more distinct.Typefaces can differ in size and shape, too, and the really bad counterfeit watches will have spellingerrors.

4. Movement: The most important thing to look out for is the watch's movement. No matter how good a counterfeit watch looks, it's not going to have better movement than the real thing. Consult with a watch expert and have him or her examine the watch and its internal mechanisms.

5. Sound: Another factor that can tell you how good the movement is can be the sound of the watch. Most really fine watches have extremely smooth mechanisms, which means there won't be the ticking sound you expect with cheaper watches.

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6. Paperwork is Important: Not every vintage watch will come with a certificate of authenticity, but you'll feel a whole lot better if it does. When watches don't have paperwork, that could be because in the past buyers of watches have separated the paperwork from the timepiece. Not only does the paperworkprovide a tangible history of the piece, but it can quantify the value of the watch and make it worthmuch more in the long run, too.

7. Sapphire Crystal Top: Asapphire crystal topis placed onto the dial of every designer watch. Regular watches either have amineral crystal topor glass top. The sapphire top gives a violet tint at a certain angle which can be used to make sure of the fact that a certain watch is genuine. To prove this, tilt the watch at various angles under a light to see if it gives off a purplish tint. Moreover, the sapphire crystal top also has a noticeable lustre and shine that is obvious from even a few steps away.

8. Serial No: If the watch is authentic, the serial number on the watch case and bracelet should be exactly similar. Tally these numbers to differentiate between a real and counterfeit watch. Sometimes, the serial number is also placed on a sticker behind the dial of the watch, so you may want to check there as well.

9. Cyclops Window: The cyclops magnification over the calendar window is another thing you can check to ensure authenticity. A counterfeit watch may have an overly magnified or under-magnified cyclops window.

How to authenticate a vintage watch? (3)

One of the best times to collect a variety of authentic luxury watches is at auctions. Auction houses as AstaGuru believe in carefully curating a collection of some splendid high-end luxury rare watchesmatching the tastes of seasoned timepieces enthusiasts and collectors. Many of these ‘ExceptionalTimepieces’ are limited editions created by some of the leading Swiss watchmakers.

In their upcoming October 2021 auction too AstaGuru will present an exquisite collection of someunique luxury watches by the top global watchmaking brands as well as state of the art watches for both men and women.

About the Author:

Deepak Krishnamoorthy is AstaGuru’s Timepiece Expert and has over 13+ years of experience in the world of haute horology. He has trained extensively in Switzerland, Germany, and Dubai with luxury global brands such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, and Audemars Piguet. He has completed his Master-Class and is certified as a Horologist / Watchmaker from Switzerland, and has successfully launched various luxury brands globally.

How to authenticate a vintage watch? (2024)

FAQs

How do you authenticate a vintage watch? ›

Serial No: If the watch is authentic, the serial number on the watch case and bracelet should be exactly similar. Tally these numbers to differentiate between a real and counterfeit watch. Sometimes, the serial number is also placed on a sticker behind the dial of the watch, so you may want to check there as well.

How do I know if my vintage watch is valuable? ›

Brand and model: Watches from well-known brands and popular models tend to be more valuable. Condition: The condition of the watch will affect its value. A watch that is in good condition with all original parts is generally more valuable than a watch that is in poor condition or has had parts replaced.

What is acceptable accuracy for a vintage watch? ›

Therefore I would say that a well made mechanical watch vintage or not should not be losing more 30 seconds per day (3.5 minutes a week). If it's more than this it needs regulating. This is assuming you are wearing it everyday e.g. for work.

Is there an app to authenticate watches? ›

A new app will use high-resolution photographs to authenticate timepieces. A rendering of the Origyn app, designed to authenticate watches through a system similar to facial recognition. “The biometrics of the watch become its own certificate of authenticity,” said Vincent Perriard, a co-founder of Origyn.

Where is the serial number on a vintage watch? ›

The serial number of your watch is engraved on the back of the case.

At what age is a watch considered antique? ›

Generally, watches older than 100 years are considered antique.

How old is considered vintage watch? ›

What exactly is vintage? The definition of what makes a watch vintage can vary widely, but it's generally said to be anything 25-30 years old, or older.

What is the difference between vintage and antique watches? ›

What is the difference between vintage and antique? Simply put, an antique is any item — whether it be a work of art, jewelry, carpets or everyday objects like housewares and accessories — that is over 100 years old. Vintage items are much younger, less than 100 years old, and typically have a collector's appeal.

What is the most faked watch? ›

The most common fake luxury watches

For watch brands, Rolex is easily the most faked manufacturer out there. You can find a cheap Submariner replica in just about every market from London to Bangkok and everywhere in between. Rolex Submariner, one of THE most copied watches.

How long does it take to verify a watch? ›

The inspection by a watchmaker takes less than an hour. Depending on the availability of the expert, the watch can be kept by the watchmaker for additional photos. Once the inspection is completed, you can leave with your watch and its accessories.

What is the difference between original and authentic watches? ›

They are not one and the same, originals are not made they are already there in existence right from their birth. While, authentic things are made authenticated and are real processed ones according to the rules and regulations. Both can have copies, but those copies can be considered only for reference purposes.

Can you overwind a vintage watch? ›

Don't Overwind

If it is a hand-winding watch, you can wind it even if it is still running. However, in every instance, stop winding as soon as you feel resistance in the crown. Don't try to eke a last turn out of it, since you could overwind the mainspring and cause damage.

Should you clean a vintage watch? ›

Old watches can be very fragile. Even though the casing may state texts like “waterproof” or “water resistant”, chances are that it no longer is protected against moisture. If in doubt, you should consider bringing your watch to a professional watch maker to have it cleaned and handled professionally.

How a watch is appraised? ›

During a watch appraisal, you will meet an expert on watches who will study your piece and inspect the aesthetic and mechanical qualities of the watch to determine its value. The process can take more than a single visit as the expert may need to conduct research.

How much does it cost to get a watch verified? ›

We charge $200 for the verbal authentication, or for an additional $100, we provide a letter with the watch reference details and condition report for personal records and insurance records.

What is a authenticity app? ›

Authentication application

Authentication applications are downloaded to your device and generate secure, six-digit codes you use to sign in to your accounts.

How do you authenticate a Swiss watch? ›

Permitted designations are “Swiss made” or “Swiss” as well as the logo of the producer or distributor, you may also see the following: “Suisse”, “produit suisse”, “fabriqué en Suisse”, “qualité suisse” These are usually seen at the six o'clock position on the watch face.

Can a fake watch have a real serial number? ›

A watch's engravings can give you important clues about its authenticity. Model and serial numbers are etched in luxury timepieces with solid, very fine lines. If a replica has a serial number, it's usually made up of tiny dots, and therefore, it has a sandy appearance.

Do expensive watches have serial numbers? ›

In most of the cases of high-end and luxury watch manufacturers, every watch has two main reference numbers: its serial number and the model reference number, identifying specific information about the timepiece.

Can a fake watch have a serial number on it? ›

Fraudsters tend to acid-etch the serial number onto the watch rather than engrave it, as engraving is much more difficult. Fake serial numbers often look poorly engraved or very faint. Some imitations are so well-made it takes an expert eye to tell them apart from the real thing.

Should I throw away old watches? ›

You can recycle them, use them as parts for other projects, or pass them down as family heirlooms. Here's a closer look at each option: Repurpose your old watch: If your watch is no longer functional, you can recycle it at a jeweler or watch repair shop in your area.

Is a 20 year old watch vintage? ›

Generally speaking, the market for vintage is on the rise, but there is no hard and fast rule as to what qualifies a watch as vintage. Some people think it is pre-1980, while others will argue that anything over 25 years old or 50 years old is vintage.

Do jewelers buy old watches? ›

I knew that Pawn shops and Jeweler stores would buy watches, but also I know that they do not pay a lot for the watch. Each of these options has its benefits as well as disadvantages. Basically, it comes down to how much work I want to do to sell my watch. The less work I put in, the less money I get for my watch.

What is the most expensive watch vintage? ›

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 6300A-01 broke the world record for the most expensive watch with a hammer price of $31.2 million, bought by a private telephone bidder.

Can you wear a vintage watch everyday? ›

Can I Wear My Vintage Watch Every Day? The next question I often get asked is: “Can a vintage watch can be worn everyday?” From my direct experience, the answer is an emphatic Yes! Once serviced, your vintage watch should work reliably regardless if you wear it one day a month or every day for five years.

Are fake watches illegal to own? ›

It is illegal to purchase counterfeit goods. Bringing them into the United States may result in civil or criminal penalties and purchasing counterfeit goods often supports criminal activities, such as forced labor or human trafficking.

What is the rarest watch brand? ›

The No. 1 most expensive watch brand in the world is Patek Philippe, originally named Patek, Czapek & Cie upon its establishment in 1839. Its priciest timepiece — and the most expensive watch to ever sell, to date — sold for $31.9 million. There are a few reasons why this brand is so incredibly expensive.

Can you go to jail for selling fake watches? ›

Penalties for Counterfeit Merchandise

Under federal law, any individual who knowingly distributes, wholesales, or sells counterfeit merchandise faces substantial penalties: Imprisonment for the first offense up to 10 years and up to 20 years for repeat offenders.

How long does it take Ebay to authenticate a watch? ›

What is the estimated delivery time for Authenticity Guarantee items? An authentication partner will inspect the watch within two business days after they receive it. Following inspection, the item will be shipped to the buyer with 2-day secure delivery including signature confirmation.

How do you test a watch? ›

Test Cases for Watch

Verify the material of the watch and its strap. Check if the shape of the dial is as per specification. Verify the dimension of the watch is as per the specification. Verify the weight of the watch.

What does 100% authentic mean? ›

The adjective authentic describes something that is real or genuine and not counterfeit.

Why are replica watches illegal? ›

Despite their prevalence, replica watches are illegal. They're considered counterfeit goods. Logos, names, and so forth are typically trademarked and designs are routinely patented. “It is illegal to purchase counterfeit goods,” says the US Customs and Border Protection office.

What is authenticity original? ›

authentic, genuine, bona fide mean being actually and exactly what is claimed. authentic implies being fully trustworthy as according with fact. an authentic account of the perilous journey. ; it can also stress painstaking or faithful imitation of an original.

Will vintage watches increase in value? ›

Vintage luxury watches are a good investment. After all, people are always going to want to know what time it is. The best way to think of it is more like a piece of jewellery than simply a watch. So long as the piece is looked after, it's not something that's going to depreciate in value over time.

How much time should a vintage watch lose per day? ›

The general rule for mechanical watches is that a deviation of 10 seconds or less per day is good.

Why not to polish vintage watch? ›

According to vintage watch dealer Eric Wind, “I advise people to not have their watches polished or buffed since it ends up removing metal and changing the architecture of the case.” Polishing, naturally, removes metal that you can't really add back.

Should you polish a vintage watch crystal? ›

When a watch is brand new, the crystal is clean and clear of scuffs and scratches. But over time, your watch crystal may come to look less than pristine. If you want to get it looking like new again, you will need to polish it.

Does polishing a watch devalue it? ›

If it is a model that should be polished, we can always have it done on our end, but polishing the wrong vintage watch can take hundreds or even thousands of dollars off its resale price.

How do I know if my old watch is worth anything? ›

Using Online Resources To Determine Value
  1. Watch brand websites.
  2. Model-launch press releases.
  3. Collector forums & boards.
  4. Auction sites (such as eBay)
  5. The chrono24 marketplace.

What makes an old watch valuable? ›

Those are condition, brand, provenance, notoriety, marketability, rarity, complexity, craftsmanship, and metal. These details are the kingmakers and responsible for determining if a watch is worth $10,000 or $10 million understand vintage watch value.

What makes a watch hold its value? ›

The materials a watch is made from is the only thing that can define its value outside of the watch world. If a watch is made from gold or platinum, it will always be worth its weight in these materials. Every other factor that goes into the value of a watch will have to do with what is popular and fashionable.

How long does it take to authenticate a watch? ›

An authentication partner will inspect the watch within two business days after they receive it.

How can you tell if a vintage watch is real gold? ›

Material –If you are shopping for a gold vintage watch, don't forget that genuine gold is stamped to indicate the karat of the gold (18k or 750, 14k or 585, etc.). Platinum and stainless steel are similarly hallmarked. You should also pay attention to construction details such as how well the metal is finished.

How long does it take eBay to authenticate a watch? ›

An authentication partner will inspect the watch within two business days after they receive it. Following inspection, the item will be shipped to the buyer with 2-day secure delivery including signature confirmation.

Does authenticate mean verify? ›

Verification looks to confirm who customers are by leveraging signals to prove their identity. Authentication, meanwhile, looks to determine if customers should have access to specific services or data.

What is the difference between vintage and antique and classic? ›

Vintage: Denoting something from the past of high quality, especially something representing the best of its kind. Antique: Having a high value because of age and quality. Classic: Judged over a period of time to be of the highest quality and outstanding of its kind.

Can you get in trouble for buying a replica watch? ›

It is illegal to purchase counterfeit goods. Bringing them into the United States may result in civil or criminal penalties and purchasing counterfeit goods often supports criminal activities, such as forced labor or human trafficking. Help to stop the funding of criminal enterprises by buying authentic goods.

Can I sue someone for selling me a fake watch? ›

First, the rightful owner can sue the person using her trademark falsely in order to obtain any ill-gotten profits. Second, a seller can be prosecuted under the Trademark Counterfeiting Act of 1984.

How can you tell if a watch is gold or gold plated? ›

If the metal doesn't change throughout the cut, the jewelry is more than likely solid gold. Gold plated jewelry will typically have a line of demarcation in the scratched area where the gold plating ends, and the base metal begins.

How can you tell if gold is real without markings? ›

Fill a cup or bowl with water and carefully drop your gold piece into it. If the gold is real, it will sink to the bottom of the cup. If it's fake, it will float to the top or hover in the middle of the cup.

How can you tell if something is gold or gold plated? ›

Acid test.

An acid test can reveal the karat of solid gold jewelry, but it can also show whether jewelry is solid gold or gold-plated. With an acid test, a small sample of the jewelry is removed and exposed to acid to induce a color change. The resulting colors indicate which type of metal the jewelry is made of.

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