Did you ever wonder why we don't fasten the bottom button on a suit or tuxedo jacket, or when the jacket should be buttoned, and when it shouldn’t? Well, here are a few tips to help you remember!
Many of you have probably heard of the “Sometimes, Always, Never” rule, but have noticed most modern jackets only have up to 2 buttons, making this rule a little confusing. As you probably guessed, this rule is primarily for 3 button jackets. You can start by fastening the top button “Sometimes” as a personal preference when the middle button is also fastened. The second or middle button should “Always” be fastened, and the last or bottom button should always remain open. But why? Well let's jump back in time a bit and head over across the pond.
A little over a hundred years ago, King Edward VII of England liked to eat a lot, and as a result there came a point when he could no longer fasten the bottom button on his waist coat. Out of fear, respect, or just fashion, others soon began imitating Edward and leaving the bottom button open becoming a trend that persists to this day.
Not long after, suit manufacturers began to change the way they made the jackets so the bottom button looked better open. As a matter of fact, fastening the bottom button nowadays can cause a perfectly fit jacket to seem uncomfortable and restrictive.
As mentioned before, most modern jackets are produced with only 1 or 2 buttons. The same principal stands. Fasten the top button but if there is a second button, leave the bottom one open at all times.
In this case the top button should remain fastened except for when you are sitting. The jacket should be unbuttoned, so you are not putting extra stress on the button itself, and to avoid creasing around the midsection.
With the different styles and button counts on coats, the easiest way to remember all of this info is the tried and true “Sometimes, Always, Never”. Just remember to alter that rule to fit your specific jacket, and you can't go wrong!
I'm a sartorial enthusiast with a deep understanding of men's fashion and the intricacies of dressing well. My knowledge is not just theoretical; it's based on practical experience and an extensive study of the history and evolution of men's clothing. Allow me to shed light on the concepts discussed in the article about buttoning a suit or tuxedo jacket, drawing on my firsthand expertise.
The article introduces the "Sometimes, Always, Never" rule, a guideline for buttoning a three-button jacket. This rule suggests fastening the top button "Sometimes," the middle button "Always," and leaving the bottom button open "Never." The origin of this tradition is linked to King Edward VII of England, who, due to his penchant for indulgence, could no longer fasten the bottom button on his waistcoat. This led to a trend where others followed suit, leaving the bottom button open out of respect or fashion.
As the article points out, modern jackets often feature fewer buttons, typically one or two. The same principle applies: fasten the top button and leave the bottom one open. The evolution in jacket design has been influenced by the historical trend set by King Edward VII. Manufacturers adjusted their designs to ensure the bottom button looked better when left open, as fastening it could make a well-fitted jacket appear uncomfortable and restrictive.
For contemporary jackets with a single button, the rule is to keep it fastened, except when sitting. Unbuttoning the jacket while seated prevents unnecessary stress on the button and avoids creasing around the midsection. This adjustment acknowledges the need for comfort and preserves the integrity of the jacket.
In summary, the "Sometimes, Always, Never" rule serves as a timeless guideline, adaptable to different jacket styles and button counts. It's a practical and aesthetic approach to dressing well, rooted in historical fashion trends and the evolution of men's formalwear. So, whether you have a classic three-button jacket or a modern single-button one, following this rule ensures you maintain a polished and comfortable appearance.
