The History of the Hawaiian Luau: A Look Back
A tradition dating back hundreds of years, ancient Hawaiian luaus were referred to as an ʻahaʻaina: aha translating to ‘gathering’ and aina meaning ‘meal.’ Generally a more formal event than your commonplace luau, these ancient gatherings were mostly focused on the traditions and ceremonies of the event rather than the entertainment level. In fact, these Polynesian feasts were often held not only to celebrate a commendable occasion like the launch of a new canoe, a battle victory, or a special achievement but to honor the Hawaiian Gods. Certain foods at these feasts were even prepared as a way to represent certain symbols and attributes.
Traditionally, women and those of a lower class in society were forbidden to dine with men and were not allowed to consume certain foods served at the feasts – usually bananas, pork, and certain kinds of reef fish, such as moi. While they were allowed to eat popular dishes like poi, sweet potatoes, and other types of fish, it wasn’t until 1819, when King Kamehameha II invited women to eat with the group, that the practice evolved and became known as a ‘luau,’ named for a traditional local dish made of taro leaves and chicken baked in coconut milk. That same year, ironically enough, hula dancing was banned by Queen Kaʻahumanu, as it was seen as too taboo of an activity.
While a pu, or conch shell, was often utilized to announce the arrival of ships, as well as the beginning of the ceremony and as an accompaniment to traditional Hawaiian chants in ancient luaus, the act is still commonly used today to signify the start of a modern luau. Details of this ancient tradition include sitting on mats made of ti leaves, hala, or pandanus trees – called lauhala – as well as eating with the hands, and showcasing grand centerpieces made of ferns, flowers, and palm leaves for hundreds or even thousands of guests.
One of the most legendary ancient luaus includes King Kamehameha III’s 1847 event, during which his order of more than 4,000 taro plants, 271 pigs, 482 gourds of poi, 2,245 coconuts, and 5,000 fish were consumed by attendees in an opulent celebratory feast. Similarly, the ‘Merry Monarch’ himself – King Kalakaua – hosted more than 1,500 guests for his 50th birthday luau celebration in 1883, with guests fed in three separate stints.
