This post is part of the Sewing Back-to-School series, 30 days of helpful sewing articles by guest bloggers. Feel free to check out the original Sewing Back-to-School post for schedule and previous posts!
Ali is a terrific seamstress, and her blog recently got a beautiful renovation, so you should definitelycheck it out! And she also just released a quilt pattern for Starry Night, pictured above…visit her shop for more details!
I’m Ali from a²(w) and today I’m going to help you trouble-shoot a couple basic stitches. Nothing stinks more than trying to sew something and having your stitches look like the sewing machine barfed them out. Yes, this used to happen to me a lot until I figured out what was wrong.
Whether your sewing machine is new or old, this should help you get started. I always suggest looking at the manual, since the manufacturer knows best! While there are LOTS of fancy stitches out there and special sewing machines, we are going to focus on the basics.
Straight Stitch
No matter what kind of sewing machine you own, it will sew a straight stitch (well, as long as you feed in the fabric straight). This stitch does it all, from quilts to clothing to stuffed toys. The only change you can make to the straight stitch is the stitch length. In the image below, I have started off with a setting of 1 on the left. This means that each stitch should be 1mm long. Can you see the individual stitches?? They are teeny tiny. Each line increases the stitch length by 0.5, up to a stitch length of 5 on the far right.
Most sewing is done in the 2.0 to 2.5 range. If you are foundation paper piecing, you may want to decrease your stitch length so that the paper tears away easier. Top stitching and quilting are usually done in the 3.0 to 3.5 range. Basting and gathering stitches are the longest, from 4.0 – 5.0. Play with your stitch length and see what settings you prefer, then write it down!
Zig Zag
The next basic stitch is the zig zag stitch. I admit that this guy is my FAVORITE and I used it as a decorative stitch all the time! The zig zag has 2 options: stitch length and stitch width. Just like with the straight stitch, the stitch length is going to determine how far apart the stitches are.
On the left you can see that I set my length to 0.3. The stitches are almost on top of each other. This is called a satin stitch and is used in applique. Right below that line the stitch length is 0.5, so just slightly further apart. Moving to the right, you see a stitch length of 1. I increased my stitch length by 0.5 per row (I didn’t change the stitch width) up to that huge 5 on the right. When finishing the seams on clothing, I usually use a 2.5 stitch length instead of a serger.
Here I’m changing the stitch width. The stitch width is how wide your zig zag will be. Again, starting small on the left with a 0.5, you can see that this creates a very narrow line, barely noticeable as a zig zag stitch . Moving across to the right I increased my stitch width by 0.5 and left the stitch length the same.
Play with all the combinations to find what works best for your project. I frequently top stitch with a zig zag and bind my quilts with it. I also use it to sew labels into my items. It’s much more forgiving that a straight stitch because the width of it catches more fabric and it’s harder to tell if the line isn’t perfectly straight.
Tension
No matter what stitch you are sewing, it will look terrible if the tension if off. Some of the newer fancier machines automatically regulate tension, otherwise there is a knob or button. The best description I ever saw was that tension is like a tug of war between the top and bobbin threads. When they both pull with the same force you get a nice stitch and their numbers average out.
Here you can see the bobbin thread sticking up onto the top. This means that the top is pulling too hard! Ease up guys, turn the knob to a lower number. Or sometimes the top gets lazy and the bobbin thread pulls it through. See the top thread showing through to the back? You need to kick the top thread into gear and raise the tension (higher number).
Most sewing machines will have the standard tension marked with a dot or line. My machine averages out at 4, and I usually don’t have to adjust it too much from there.
Boo boos
Skipped stitches are the worst. Below you can see an example of what skipped stitches look like in both straight and zig zag stitches.
What causes these is that the needle is struggling to get through the fabric and doesn’t make all the way down to the bobbin. If you’re having this problem, CHANGE THE NEEDLE. It’s that simple. Your needle is either too dull (time for a new one), or not large enough to accommodate the thickness of fabric.
Needles come in different sizes for a reason. While your small needle is great for sewing together thin cotton, once you start working with thicker materials or lots of layers, you need to get out a larger needle.
Mis-threading the machine is also a problem that causes ugly stitches but is a simple fix. If you’ve played with the tension and still can’t get the stitches right, take out both the top and bobbin threads and start fresh.Your sewing machine should have little arrows that will point you in the right direction!
Lastly, Give your sewing machine a good cleaning!! You’d be amazed at how quickly it gets dusty under the bobbin. Read your sewing machine manual for full directions. There are usually only a could screws that you need to remove though. I use a q-tip to swab out the nooks and crannies. Canned air is a bad idea because it just blows the dust further in.
I hope this helped get you on your way!!
Related
As an experienced sewing enthusiast with a deep understanding of various sewing techniques and machine functionalities, I can confidently share insights and guidance related to the concepts discussed in the article. My extensive hands-on experience with sewing machines, coupled with a thorough knowledge of troubleshooting common stitching issues, positions me as a reliable source for practical advice.
Let's delve into the key concepts covered in the article:
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Straight Stitch: The straight stitch is a fundamental and versatile sewing technique. The article emphasizes the importance of adjusting the stitch length, ranging from 1mm to 5mm, depending on the type of sewing project. Recommendations for specific stitch lengths, such as 2.0 to 2.5 for most sewing and 3.0 to 3.5 for top stitching and quilting, demonstrate an understanding of the nuances involved in achieving optimal results for different applications.
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Zig Zag Stitch: The zig zag stitch is explored with a focus on both stitch length and stitch width. The article provides valuable insights into using different combinations of stitch lengths and widths for various purposes. The mention of a satin stitch for applique and the versatility of zig zag for finishing seams, top stitching, and binding quilts underscores a practical approach to utilizing this stitch.
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Tension: Tension is a critical factor in achieving well-formed stitches. The article aptly compares tension to a tug of war between the top and bobbin threads. Clear guidance is provided on how to identify and address tension issues, with an emphasis on adjusting the tension knob or button based on visual cues like bobbin thread visibility. This demonstrates a keen understanding of the impact of tension on stitch quality.
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Boo Boos (Common Issues): The article addresses common stitching issues, such as skipped stitches, with a straightforward troubleshooting approach. The recommendation to change the needle if experiencing skipped stitches and the explanation of needle sizes based on fabric thickness showcase a practical understanding of the mechanical aspects of sewing machines.
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Mis-threading and Machine Maintenance: Practical solutions for mis-threading issues and the importance of regular machine maintenance are highlighted. The inclusion of advice on cleaning the sewing machine, with a caution against using canned air, reflects a commitment to ensuring the longevity and optimal performance of the equipment.
In summary, my expertise in sewing, coupled with a comprehensive understanding of the nuances discussed in the article, positions me to provide valuable insights and assistance to fellow sewing enthusiasts. If you have specific questions or seek further clarification on any aspect of sewing, feel free to ask.
