Shein suppliers' workers doing 75-hour week, finds probe (2024)

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Shein suppliers' workers doing 75-hour week, finds probe (1)Image source, Getty Images

By Lora Jones

Business reporter, BBC News

Workers for some suppliers of the Chinese fashion giant Shein are doing excessive overtime, a non-governmental organisation has suggested.

A number of staff across six sites in Guangzhou were found to be working 75-hour weeks in a report by Swiss advocacy group Public Eye.

David Hachfeld of Public Eye said there was "enormous pressure" on staff to turn clothes around quickly.

Shein said it takes supply chain issues seriously and will review the report.

Public Eye's researchers visited 17 factories supplying Shein and its parent company Zoetop, near the Shein headquarters in Guangzhou. The organisation typically campaigns on big Swiss businesses and their dealings abroad.

It interviewed 10 workers across six of those sites, which were solely receiving orders from Shein at the time.

They reported that the workers they spoke to clocked three shifts per day, often with only one day off a month.

Public Eye suggests the fact that workers, mainly migrants, are paid per item of clothing encourages them to work long hours.

Although such hours aren't unusual in Chinese production hubs, they violate local labour laws, which set out a maximum working day of eight hours, as well as a 40-hour working week.

Shein said: "Upon learning of the report, we immediately requested a copy and when we receive and review the report, we will initiate an investigation.

"We have a strict supplier Code of Conduct which includes stringent health and safety policies and is in compliance with local laws. If non-compliance is identified we will take immediate action," the spokesperson said.

Public Eye launched an investigation into Shein, which works with thousands of suppliers, last year in a bid to find out more about the fashion giant's structure.

The private company does not disclose financial figures, but its sales are thought to have soared during the pandemic with consumers making more of online shopping. Data provider CB Insights estimates that revenues topped 63.5bn yuan (£7.4bn) in 2020.

So-called "fast-fashion" companies, who offer low price clothing, have faced scrutiny over their supply chains.

Victoria Bellandini, senior fashion lecturer at the University of Lincoln said: "You cannot get clothes that cheap that are made in good working conditions and until we really know where our clothes are coming from, we can't source these problems".

She said: "Big brands say they check their suppliers but so much of this is farmed out to cheaper factories, meaning there is a widespread lack of transparency behind industry standards,

"The fashion industry is changing to a certain extent at the higher end level but this isn't happening for cheaper clothes brands".

The online-only fast fashion giant

Image source, Shein

£1.50 tops, £10 midi skirts - and even a £30 wedding dress.

Shein is winning over young shoppers in the US, UK, Europe and Australia by producing fast fashion even faster, and often at cheaper prices, than its rivals Boohoo or Asos.

It's been operating in its current form since 2013. The company relies on thousands of third-party suppliers in China to produce small batches of clothes, about 50-100 per item.

If the items do well with its trend-conscious customers? Shein orders more from its suppliers. If not, it's discontinued.

Shein has accelerated the "test and repeat" model, made famous by the likes of Zara owner Inditex and H&M. Just 6% of Shein's inventory remains in stock for more than 90 days.

Mr Hachfeld, who is also the director of the Clean Clothes Campaign in Switzerland, suggested that the long hours observed were "directly linked" to the piece-rate system, which is widespread in China.

"If you have that without implementing checks on limits... that automatically leads to high working hours because workers need to make their living."

He added: "It's striking to see that a company with such big influence and huge turnover is apparently not yet acting on its responsibility to ensure that pay rates are at a level where you can make a good living within normal working hours."

In a "good month" several workers said that they might make up to 10,000 Yuan (£1,186). In slow months, their pay could be two-thirds lower.

Some also claimed that they were working without a contract, the Public Eye report says, although workers generally said that they were paid on time.

Shein in numbers

  • 6,000 new items added daily
  • £7.90 average item cost
  • 250 million followers on social media
  • 200 in-house designers of more than 7,000 employees
  • 25 day turnaround time for a piece of clothing

The NGO also visited the 16 million square foot Shein warehouse on the outskirts of Guangzhou, where it ships its clothes from. About one dozen employees interviewed there said they worked similar, long, hours.

At one supplier site, researchers also found that there were no emergency exits and barred windows, which could prove fatal in the event of a fire.

The fast fashion firm outlines a code of conduct for suppliers on its US website.

It says that they must "provide a safe, hygienic and healthy workplace environment" and that working hours should comply with local laws and regulations.

As well as thousands of smaller suppliers along its supply chain, the e-retailer uses 200 contract manufacturers.

The BBC understands that the company performs quarterly assessments of its suppliers, sometimes involving external auditors.

But the business model has raised concerns among politicians in the UK.

Chair of the Foreign Affairs Committee Tom Tugendhat previously told the BBC "when the price is too good you have to ask who is really paying and how".

The production and promotion of its crop tops and bikinis on social media has raised questions among environmentalists too.

Shein insists that its method of producing clothes in small batches is more efficient and that little goes to waste. It also points out on its website that it wants to source more recycled fabrics and uses printing technology that is less polluting than traditional screen printing for graphics and patterns.

But Roberta Lee, a sustainable fashion stylist, has suggested that the company preys "on the fears of outfit repetition syndrome", with pieces likely to be discarded to landfill after a matter of weeks.

While Public Eye says that it would like to see stronger regulation of the fast fashion industry, "taking a slower approach to fashion consumption and making the next click count is a good place to start", according to Mr Hachfeld.

Shein suppliers' workers doing 75-hour week, finds probe (2024)

FAQs

What were the conditions like for Shein factory workers? ›

Shein launched an investigation after U.K. Channel Four documentary Untold: Inside The Shein Machine alleged that workers were subject to 16-hour-long days, got one day off a month, and earned wages of around 4,000 yuan ($572) per month to produce hundreds of garments for the online retailer each day.

How much does Shein pay their factory workers? ›

Channel4's documentary, Inside The Shein Machine, sent undercover cameras to film factory workers who were forced to pull 17-hour shifts to make hundreds of garments a day. In one factory, they made a daily base salary of $20, which would then be docked by $14 if any garments had mistakes.

How much do Shein workers get paid an hour in China? ›

SHEIN Salary FAQs

The average SHEIN hourly pay ranges from approximately $23 per hour for a Sales Associate to $23 per hour for a Sales Associate. SHEIN employees rate the overall compensation and benefits package 3.2/5 stars.

Is Shein forced labor? ›

“As a global company, Shein takes visibility across our entire supply chain seriously,” a company spokesperson said in a statement to Supply Chain Dive. “We are committed to respecting human rights and adhering to local laws and regulations in each market we operate in. … We have zero-tolerance for forced labor.”

How much hours do Shein workers work? ›

Workers who make clothing for Shein at factories in China frequently work 18 hours a day—with only one day off per month—for as little as 3 cents per hour, an undercover investigation by Britain's Channel 4 found.

How much do garment workers get paid in China? ›

The average textile worker gross salary in China is ¥61,472 or an equivalent hourly rate of ¥30. In addition, they earn an average bonus of ¥922. Salary estimates based on salary survey data collected directly from employers and anonymous employees in China.

How much are Shein workers paid per garment? ›

The documentary reported Shein garment workers are paid as little as four cents per clothing item in work shifts that can last up to 18 hours.

Are Shein factory workers working 18 hour days? ›

A documentary by Channel 4 alleged Shein's supplier factories were forcing garment makers to work 18-hour days, paying them as little as 3p per item, and permitting them just one day off a month. The company's business model relies on small batches and forecasting trends to cut inventory to “a single digit”.

Why are things so cheap on Shein? ›

Their prices are low because they practice fast fashion, use cheap labor, and have a lot of sales and discounts. However, their clothes are usually of good quality, and you can always return them if you're not happy with your purchase. So if you're looking for affordable clothes, Shein is a great option!

How long is a work shift in China? ›

9-9-6 means working from 9am to 9pm, 6 days a week. This work schedule is very common in China, especially in the tech industry. While 996 itself isn't surprising in modern Chinese work culture, billionaire Jack Ma's comments about it have made a lot of people angry.

Does Shein pay living wages? ›

Shein has made no commitment to pay living wages to its garment makers. Instead, a 2021 investigation found that its Chinese garment makers are earning a piece-rate, sewing its clothes 75-plus hours a week with very little time off.

Who is Shein owned by? ›

Chris Xu founded Shein in 2012 and has turned it into a fast-fashion phenomenon with Gen Z, selling trendy clothes in more than 150 countries. Backed by Sequoia China, it's one of the world's most popular shopping apps whose users love its low prices.

What are the problems with Shein? ›

Shein has repeatedly come under fire for just about everything you can do wrong with a company, including poor working conditions, high levels of toxic chemicals in its clothing, copying independent designers' items, and mishandling customer data.

Does Shein support lgbtq? ›

Shop for a cause: find out where your local LGBTQ+ businesses are and use your coin! Especially during these times, our support means everything.

Why is Shein cancelled? ›

However, just weeks before, Shein had been the focus of an investigation that found evidence of labor abuse in its supply chain. In at least two of its Chinese factories, the report found that workers were being made to do 18-hour days, seven days a week, with only one day off per month.

Is Shein a good company to work for? ›

Is SHEIN a good company to work for? SHEIN has an overall rating of 3.3 out of 5, based on over 160 reviews left anonymously by employees. 50% of employees would recommend working at SHEIN to a friend and 52% have a positive outlook for the business. This rating has decreased by -11% over the last 12 months.

Who are the lowest paid garment workers? ›

According to Dr. Sheng Lu, University of Delaware, Ethiopia, the fastest-growing African economy, has the lowest wages in the global textile industry. In an effort to attract foreign investors, Ethiopia has implemented the lowest minimum wage of any garment-producing country: only $26 per month, or about 23 euros.

How much is rent in China? ›

A Breakdown of the Average Cost of Living in China:
ExpensesCost (USD)Estimated Monthly Cost (USD)
Rent$200 ~ $700$200 ~ $700
Food$2~$5 per meal$100 ~ $150
Transportation$,0.3~$0.5 each way (bus)$30 ~ $50
UtilitiesElectricity, water, gas, telephone, wi-fi$50 ~ $100
1 more row

Are garment workers underpaid? ›

Despite the big-name brands these workers produce for, new research shows that garment workers earn poverty pay which leaves them struggling to survive, highlighting the inadequacy of the legal minimum wage.

What are garment workers paid? ›

Research from the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) shows garment workers' average wages have decreased over the past 12 months by over a fifth (21 percent) from an average of $187 per month to $147.

How much do Chinese sweatshop workers get paid? ›

How much do Chinese garment workers get paid? Informational context on the clothing industry The minimum salary ranges from 1120 RMB (US$161) to 2480 RMB (US$357) per month depending on the location. This is a significant gap when compared to the projected monthly living wage of 5410 RMB (US$778) per month.

How many hours can a worker at factory work? ›

(1) Where a worker works in a factory for more than nine hours in any day or for more than forty-eight hours in any week, he shall, in respect of overtime work, be entitled to wages at the rate of twice his ordinary rate of wages.

Does Shein sell used clothes? ›

On Monday, fast-fashion retailer Shein launched its resale program “Shein Exchange.” The online-only (and app-supported) peer-to-peer resale program facilitates the sale and purchase of secondhand Shein products.

What country is Shein based in? ›

Based in China and shipping across 150+ countries, Shein is the world's largest fashion retailer, as of 2022. The company was valued at $100 billion after a funding round in April 2022.

Where does Shein buy their clothes from? ›

Originally, everything on the site shipped directly from China. Now, the clothing on Shein comes from several wholesale warehouses around the world. Although many items still ship directly from Chinese factories, local places offer shorter waiting times for the same products.

Do Chinese citizens own their own homes? ›

Nearly four decades of housing reforms have transformed China into a homeowner society with homeownership rates exceeding 90 % in 2019. However, exactly which household member owns the property has seldom been studied.

How long is lunch break in China? ›

The Chinese people usually work between 08:00 and 18:00 each day, with a lunch break from 12:00 to 14:00. However, local variations may occur due to the time difference or policy in different cities.

Is it stressful to work in China? ›

Of the included 16206 Chinese government employees at baseline, 60.45% reported that they experienced negative stressful life events and 43.87% reported that they experienced positive stressful life events over the past year. Fatigue was reported by 7.74% of the sample at baseline and 8.19% at follow-up.

Where are Shein workers located? ›

Workers at factories in China that supply clothes to Shein frequently work up to 18 hours a day with no weekends and just one day off per month, according to an undercover investigation from Channel 4 and The i newspaper in the UK.

What does Shein mean in english? ›

Jewish (Ashkenazic): nickname or artificial name from Yiddish sheyn 'fine beautiful'. Compare Schoen . Americanized form of German and Jewish (Ashkenazic) Schein .

How rich is the owner of Shein? ›

The combined net worth of its founders – Xu, Miao Miao, Gu Xiaoqing and Ren Xiaoqing – is almost $US40 billion ($60 billion), while one of its earliest and most prominent backers, Tiger Global, has made more than 20 times its investment.

What does Shein mean in chinese? ›

shī ēn. to confer a favor on sb to confer a benefit.

Why are people boycotting Shein? ›

From poor working conditions, high levels of toxic chemicals in clothing, and copying items from independent designers to mishandling customer data, there is now an overall worldwide push to boycott this company. The first of many allegations is that Shein workers are severely underpaid.

What was the scandal with Shein? ›

Accusations of breaking labour laws

Channel 4's documentary was the not the first time Shein had been bending the rules surrounding workers' rights; in November 2021, Shein suppliers were found to be making employees work excessive hours, according to an investigation by Public Eye.

Why are people buying Shein? ›

Shein presents an option that's cheaper and more convenient than traditional fast fashion retailers, which adds to its attractiveness. They also produce even faster, meaning there's always an incentive to revisit the site week after week to check on new arrivals.

Do any celebrities wear Shein? ›

Good American founder Khloé Kardashian, famous stylist Law Roach, and American designer Christian Siriano were just a few of the celebrities that took part in this. “Shein is one of the most unethical fast fashion brands,” One fan commented on Khloé Kardashian's post that announced her partnership with the brand.

Is Shein a unicorn? ›

As of September 2021, the highest valued Chinese unicorn company in the field of e-commerce and direct-to-consumer was SHEIN with a market valuation of around 15 billion U.S. dollars.
...
CharacteristicValuation in billion U.S. dollars
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9 more rows
Sep 9, 2021

What is Shein most popular for? ›

shein.com's audience is interested in Lifestyle > Fashion and Apparel & shopping.

Are Romwe and Shein the same? ›

Are Romwe and SHEIN the same? Romwe and SHEIN have a lot more in common than just their styles, prices, and business models. Romwe was acquired by SHEIN in 2014.

How is the brand Shein pronounced? ›

It's pronounced SHE- in.

Where is Shein located in USA? ›

For the US audience, the company sends all of its clothes from the Shein warehouse in Foshan, Guangdong to the one near Los Angeles. Even though the company has a longer delivery time than some of its competitors, their prices and the large collection has kept their audience hooked to the app.

What were the working conditions of factory workers? ›

The working conditions in factories were often harsh. Hours were long, typically ten to twelve hours a day. Working conditions were frequently unsafe and led to deadly accidents. Tasks tended to be divided for efficiency's sake which led to repetitive and monotonous work for employees.

What was the condition of the factory workers? ›

Factory workers had to face long hours, poor working conditions, and job instability. During economic recessions many workers lost their jobs or faced sharp pay cuts. New employees found the discipline and regulation of factory work to be very different from other types of work.

What are the conditions like for clothing factory workers? ›

Employees usually work with no ventilation, breathing in toxic substances, inhaling fiber dust or blasted sand in unsafe buildings. Accidents, fires, injuries, and disease are very frequent occurrences on textile production sites. On top of that, clothing workers regularly face verbal and physical abuse.

What were the working conditions at a garment factory like for the workers? ›

Workers are not paid overtime and toil in unsafe, cramped, dirty, and poorly ventilated factories. They frequently develop physical ailments due to the fast-paced, strenuous requirements of the work, which stem from trying to earn a living wage while being paid mere cents per garment produced.

How did factory workers respond to poor working conditions? ›

In response to poor working conditions, labor movements organized alliances known as unions and pushed for reforms. Reform movements happened around the world but started in Britain and the United States. They focused on labor rights, social welfare, women's rights, and working to end slavery.

How bad were the working conditions in factories? ›

During the early Industrial Revolution, working conditions were usually terrible and sometimes tragic. Most factory employees worked 10 to 14 hours a day, six days a week, with no time off. Each industry had safety hazards that led to regular accidents on the job.

What were some of the horrible working conditions found in factories? ›

Poor workers were often housed in cramped, grossly inadequate quarters. Working conditions were difficult and exposed employees to many risks and dangers, including cramped work areas with poor ventilation, trauma from machinery, toxic exposures to heavy metals, dust, and solvents.

What are the problems that factory workers face? ›

Accidents, fires, injuries, and disease are very frequent occurrences on production sites. Many production houses have not been able to find a solution, leading to innocent lives being lost. Verbal abuse is a common issue faced by factory workers.

Why are children not allowed to work in factories? ›

factories are unsafe for children. they are exposed to things such as, dangerous machinery, toxic fumes, harmful substances that can cause physical harm and/or cause diseases. thus they are not allowed to work in factories.

How much did a child get paid in the Industrial Revolution? ›

Children in the mills usually worked eleven or twelve hour days, 5-6 days a week. Windows were usually kept closed because moisture and heat helped keep the cotton from breaking. Crushed and broken fingers were common in the coal mines. Most children working here were boys earning $0.50-$0.60 a day.

How much do garment workers get paid? ›

Research from the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) shows garment workers' average wages have decreased over the past 12 months by over a fifth (21 percent) from an average of $187 per month to $147.

What are the two biggest problems faced by garment workers? ›

Accidents, fires, injuries, and disease are very frequent occurrences on textile production sites. On top of that, clothing workers regularly face verbal and physical abuse.

What are 3 dangers of garment factories? ›

Most garment workers do not feel safe at work. Not only are they working in dangerous buildings, but workers are routinely exposed to inhumanely high temperatures, harmful chemicals and physical violence.

What are bad working conditions in the garment industry? ›

Workers in the garment industry are required to put in 14 to 16 hours per day, seven days a week, and endure verbal and sometimes even physical abuse from managers. Oftentimes, workers are exposed to harmful substances while working without enough ventilation. Accidents and injuries are also frequent.

How many garment workers are underpaid? ›

Workers in key garment- and footwear-producing countries are, on average, receiving just 55 percent of the pay they need to achieve a decent standard of living, according to data published Monday by The Industry We Want, a coalition of industry stakeholders calling for better working conditions and environmental ...

What are poor working conditions in sweatshops? ›

Sweatshop workers' conditions - It can be really bad

In the worst forms of sweatshops people are forced to work up to 72 hours straight, without sleep. Those complaining are beaten and abused. Cases of physical, sexual, and verbal abuse are common and well documented.

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