Take 1: Unsanforized Denim (2024)

FAQs

How much will unsanforized denim shrink? ›

When jeans are labeled “unsanforized”, "loomstate", or “shrink-to-fit” this means that there has been no shrinkage done prior to the wearer receiving the denim, and one can expect anywhere from 3-10% of shrinkage from their pair.

If you have bought unsanforized (non-pre-shrunk) denim jeans or jacket with a non-wash finish, you need to soak the garment in warm water to remove all of its shrinkage before you start wearing it.

Sanforization is a process of pre-shrinking fabric before it is made into a garment. When a fabric has been treated with the sanforization process, it's referred to as 'sanforized' or 'pre-shrunk. ' If denim is not sanforized, it's referred to as 'unsanforized' or 'shrink-to-fit.

A soak in hot water and a thorough drying usually works best. You can boil jeans for 20-30 minutes, or soak them in a hot bathtub. Expect to shrink pants roughly one size, so that means it's best to use jeans already close to the size you need. This method is all about getting the perfect hip-hugging snug fit!

Sanforized denim won't shrink in the wash so it's easier to size at the outset, plus it's typically smoother and softer. Some prefer unsanforized denim because it's rougher, stiffer, and hairier — it has more character,' if that's your thing.

As a general rule of thumb, 30 to 60 wears (that's one to two months with everyday use) will set the kind of creases prized by denimheads.

Let your jeans soak for about 45 – 60 minutes. The amount of time you let your pair of jeans soak in the hot water affects the percentage of shrinkage you'll get. So, if the jeans is already tight, you should decrease the soaking time. Also, do not forget to have your jeans fully submerged.

This means you don't have to soak or wash sanforized raw denim and one-wash jeans before you start wearing them. However, I would still recommend a pre-wear soak for sanforized raw denim jeans (hand-washing without detergent). But remember that this may give you less pronounced contrasts in the fade.

When buying a sanforized pair, although they how will stretch roughly 0.5″ – 1.0″ with wear, bear in mind that they will shrink roughly 1% – 5% and you will need to size down accordingly.

Denim aficionados know that selvedge denim is the gold standard of jeans. Selvedge, also called “selvage,” is made on a shuttle loom, creating a narrower fabric with a tighter weave. The result is more durable and heavy-weight denim with a pronounced ridged edge.

Why do people buy raw denim? ›

People who choose raw jeans over washed jeans do so because they want to break-in the jeans themselves. Raw jeans provide a blank canvas or clean slate, that can pick up fades better than washed denim.

Each time you wash your raw denim, you'll be losing some of the indigo. So yes, each wash will fade your denim.

The general rule of thumb is to wear your jeans for as long as you can stand before washing them, since the fades will be more pronounced and personalized the longer you go without bleeding the dye in the wash. That means that a go-to pair could ideally go six months, a year, or even longer without a deep clean.

Raw denim will shrink after the first wash due to the reaction of the yarns contacting water for the first time after dying. For the same reason, they also stretch more easily than yarns that have incurred shrinkage from contact with water.

How much will jeans shrink? In general, expect up to 3–4% shrinkage, which on a pair of jeans with a 32″ inseam would mean shrinking about 1″–1¼” in the length. The width is much less prone to shrinkage because there is less applied tension in that direction during fabric construction.

For the most part, all you need is some hot water. Heat can cause the fibers in the fabric to shrink up, and the water will help with this as well. Once you've gotten your denim to where you want it, you can wear your smaller jeans until they lose their shape again.

Did you know the way you care for your jeans should determine the size you need? Let us explain: A pair of raw-denim jeans typically shrinks 7% to 10% after the first wash and continues to conform to the wearer's body after every wash and wear.

Selvedge denim stretches with time, so buy a slim straight-cut pair a size smaller than usual. "You want a pair that's a bit snug at first in the waist," says Paul O'Neill, senior designer at Levi's Vintage Clothing. Find jeans with just enough room to squeeze a finger between your body and the waistband.

This ultimately comes down to preference. Raw denim will stretch about an inch in the waist and all over with everyday wear, so some people size down to accommodate for this.

The starch is what makes the fabric so stiff, and the starch chips off with the indigo the more you wear it and it becomes softer and softer and the indigo becomes less and less, and as that happens, you are personalizing your jean in a way that really could never be done by anyone else.

Should raw denim be tight first? ›

Over the past couple of months we've been asked by our followers, “how should my first pair of raw denim fit?” In the simplest answer possible, they should feel comfortably snug when you're trying them on for the first time.

Lunges are a quick and easy way to break in raw denim. The stretching motion gently opens up the seat and legs of the denim. Do three to five deep lunges to give the denim a nice stretch. Doing lunges periodically throughout the day will help the denim soften up and mold the body.

Especially if you've chosen a tight fit or a heavier denim. But just hang in there, even the stiffest raw denim will eventually get soft as you break it in. To ease this process a little, consider soaking the jeans before you start wearing them.

To avoid your jeans getting stiff after drying, try soaking them in a mixture of water and fabric softener overnight, then rinse the following day.

To prevent shrinking or bleeding, only use cold water to wash your jeans, and wash them separately or with similarly-colored denim. If you decide to hand wash your new jeans, don't wring them out when you finish rinsing them. Instead, fold or roll them before squeezing out the leftover water.

Q: Should I soak my raw denim first, wash them first, or just wear them first? No need to over think them! If your raw denim is sanforized (more info can also be find in our guide to sanforization), just wear them until you think they need a wash.

If you'd like to remove any last remaining bit of shrinkage, you could go ahead and give them a soak. However, since they are sanforized (and thus most of the shrinkage has been removed), they don't need to be soaked. They'll do just fine from first wear onwards.

Buy your regular size. Yes, they will be tight at first and they should be if you want them to mold to your body and give you that perfect fit or in Miles John's words (Levi Strauss & Co's former creative director): “They should feel tight.

Always take the smaller size as cotton tends to grow when it doesn't have a stretch fabric mixed into the cotton. It will shrink slightly on washing and stretch again when worn.

In the early to mid-1980s the use of selvedge denim was phased out due to productive efficiency, and the jeans produced in this era were finished with an overlock stitch on the outseam instead.

How can you tell if denim is selvedge? ›

How do I know if my jeans are selvedge? Turn up the cuff to look at the seams on the inside of the jean. Look at the seam that runs up the outside of the leg. If the edges look finished (the yarns of the self-edge are a different color than the fabric), it's selvedge.

Always iron damp jeans inside out.

For a selvedge denim that is 100% cotton, then set your iron to a high heat (cotton) setting using steam. If your selvedge has any stretch in it, you will need a cooler iron setting. To protect your jeans use a tea towel cloth between the iron and the jeans.

Even most raw denim jeans are in fact finished in one way or the other. Without any finishing, denim looks “hairy” because of all the excess cotton fibres that sit on its surface. The singeing process takes care of the “problem.” What's much more important is that loomstate denim doesn't have any dimensional stability.

The 501® Original Shrink-to-Fit™ Jeans are made from authentic raw denim that forms to your body. The fit, wear and finish are all unique to you. The 501® Original is an iconic straight fit with signature button fly. For a classic all-American look, pair with a Levi's® Trucker Jacket and a simple crewneck tee.

Clothing made from “selvage” fabric is known to last longer because it's produced on a shuttle loom, which creates a tighter weave than the modern looms used for mass-manufactured denim.

Even after several washes, always be sure it is only washed along with other dark items in the future. You can get past the major bleeding stage faster by washing and drying the denim 3-4 times before wearing. The hotter the water, the more the dye will come off—using a little detergent will also help.

Dry, 100% cotton denim expands anywhere between one inch to 1.5 inches over a three month period of daily wear.

Raw denim is the term for denim fabric that is unwashed and untreated. The vast majority of jeans sold today are produced by washing and distressing the denim in order to create an artificial worn-in look.

In general, expect up to 3–4% shrinkage, which on a pair of jeans with a 32″ inseam would mean shrinking about 1″–1¼” in the length. The width is much less prone to shrinkage because there is less applied tension in that direction during fabric construction. This can vary from brand to brand and style to style.

When buying a sanforized pair, although they how will stretch roughly 0.5″ – 1.0″ with wear, bear in mind that they will shrink roughly 1% – 5% and you will need to size down accordingly.

How much does raw denim shrink after first wash? ›

Let's Talk About Shrinkage

This is why sanforized jeans are considered to be "pre-shrunk." Shrinkage with sanforized denim is limited to less than 1%, while unsanforized denim could shrink up to one or two sizes. (Some brands also offer "one-wash" jeans that have already been washed and will not shrink as much.)

Step 2: Soak

Too hot, and your denim will shrink more than intended. Too cold, and achieve minimal shrinkage. This is why lukewarm water is the temperature of choice. Not to mention, this temperature also limits the amount of indigo dye lost in the process.

All jeans will stretch to varying degrees over time, explains Dean Brough, academic program director of QUT's school of design. "Jeans by nature actually do stretch. The fabric is meant to morph and form to the body which is why we love them," he says.

Buying one-wash jeans also gives you the option to have them hemmed upon purchase, as you don't have any significant shrinkage to worry about.

Let your jeans soak for about 45 – 60 minutes. The amount of time you let your pair of jeans soak in the hot water affects the percentage of shrinkage you'll get. So, if the jeans is already tight, you should decrease the soaking time. Also, do not forget to have your jeans fully submerged.

Does sanforized denim shrink? Because sanforized denim has little shrinkage, it does not need to be soaked before wear. Feel free to start wearing it right away.

Selvedge denim stretches with time, so buy a slim straight-cut pair a size smaller than usual.

Change your jean washing habits for raw

With raw, you'll want to go as long as possible without washing, think once or twice a year. If you need to wash jeans frequently, there's no reason to buy raw (buy a dark wash jean instead). To get good fading, your raw jeans will need to get dirty.

As a general rule of thumb, 30 to 60 wears (that's one to two months with everyday use) will set the kind of creases prized by denimheads.

Lunges are a quick and easy way to break in raw denim. The stretching motion gently opens up the seat and legs of the denim. Do three to five deep lunges to give the denim a nice stretch. Doing lunges periodically throughout the day will help the denim soften up and mold the body.