The end of the suit: has Covid finished off the menswear staple? (2024)

Simon Cundey’s family have been tailor-making men’s suits for seven generations, taking 37 measurements from every customer through the Great Depression and two world wars. The tailor’s arsenal of chalk, scissors and thread were put to work every weekday since the company was founded in 1806, until March 2020 when the government ordered almost everyone to work from home.

“If there’s one thing you can’t do at home, it’s measure people for suits,” says Cundey, who has worked for his family firm, Henry Poole & Co, tailors on Savile Row in London since his early 20s. “The pandemic is, by far, the worst crisis the business has ever faced. It is far worse than the Great Depression or the wars ever were.

“In wartime, the allied forces were here so we made uniforms for Americans and Canadians, and we could still see customers face-to-face,” he says, as we chat on leather sofas in front of a roaring log fire in the shop, surrounded by 48 framed warrants from the royal family and other world leaders.

Post lockdown, Cundey and his team of cutters, undercutters, trouser-, jacket- and waistcoat-makers are back at work at 15 Savile Row – the street known the world over as the home of the finest bespoke menswear – and customers are coming back through the doors. But there are not as many as before the pandemic, and fewer than before the 2008 financial crisis. It’s a story repeated up and down “the row”, and at other tailors across the country, as well as high street retailers from Marks & Spencer to Reiss, and online companies from Mr Porter to Asos.

Declarations of falling popularity don’t come much more authoritative than from the Office for National Statistics (ONS), which last month removed suits from the basket of goods it uses to calculate the annual inflation rate. The government’s statistics agency said suits, which had been in the basket every year since 1947, were not bought often enough to make it into the basket of 733 representative goods and services selected to measure the UK’s cost of living. They have been replaced in the ONS basket with a “formal jacket or blazer”.

The end of the suit: has Covid finished off the menswear staple? (1)

Nick Paget, a senior menswear editor and “trends forecaster” at the consumer analytics firm WGSN, says “many men have simply fallen out of love with suits, if they ever did love them”.

Paget, who has worked in menswear for more than 20 years, says suits were on the wane long before the pandemic, with dress-down Fridays slowly chipping away at office formality. “But 18 months of slouching around the house in joggers and a hoodie has definitely sped it up,” he says, adding that people just need suits less than they once did.

“When a guy used to have to wear a suit to work, it wasn’t just one. He would have a number of suits on rotation and at the cleaners.”

Men, Paget says, are now unafraid to tell their bosses what they want to wear to work. “I expect that as part of the deal to go back to work, people will be expected to wear formal suits less,” he says. “Personally, I hate wearing a collared shirt, and I know I’m not alone.”

Figures from the market research firm Kantar Worldpanel back him up. It found that spending on men’s suits collapsed from £460m in 2017 to £157m in 2020, before recovering slightly to £279m last year. The suit is being replaced, Paget says, not with working from home outfits of joggers, jeans or hoodies but with “chore jackets”.

Asked to explain, he says: “It’s in the name really.” They are jackets first designed for tradesmen to wear for handiwork, painting or plumbing. Originating in late 1800s France, where they were worn by farm workers and labourers, the jackets were dubbed “bleu de travail” or “worker’s blues” for their deep shade of indigo.

“Workwear staples that are comfortable and practical have been elevated to office attire, particularly in the creative industries,” Paget says. “The fabrics and detailing have been improved on, but fundamentally they are clothes that an old-school plumber would have worn.”

M&S, which has cut the number of stores selling suits to 110 out of its 245 larger locations, has credited the workwear trend with helping it return to profit on a half-year basis.

Wes Taylor, M&S’s director of menswear, says the suit has been declining since at least 2019, when the market for them dropped 7%. As a result, the company is switching to focus on “separates” – suit trousers and jackets sold separately so they can be mixed and matched with less formal clothes.

The end of the suit: has Covid finished off the menswear staple? (2)

“The pandemic hit fast-forward on the trend for more casual dressing – especially for the office, where, for many, chinos and a shirt is the new uniform,” Taylor says.

Gieves & Hawkes, the best-known Savile Row tailor, which dates back to 1771, could soon disappear altogether. Trinity Group, the Chinese owner, collapsed into liquidation earlier this year after failing to find a buyer for the tailor.

Like most on the row, Gieves & Hawkes started out selling military uniforms to army officers. It operates out of No 1 Savile Row, the previous home of the Royal Geographical Society and is by far the biggest shop on the street. Under Chinese ownership, the company has expanded to 58 shops in 25 cities, which experts say may be the reason it has been hard to sell. “The ubiquity has diminished the exclusivity somewhat,” Paget says.

The end of the suit: has Covid finished off the menswear staple? (3)

Gieves & Hawkes is not the only struggling tailor. Hardy Amies, the firm founded by Sir Edwin Hardy Amies in 1946 and which specialised in suits for British Olympians, collapsed in 2019. Thomas Pink, the City shirtmaker, collapsed in 2020 before it was bought from the previous owner, the luxury conglomerate LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) by the former JD Sports executive Nick Preston.

Andy Saxton, strategic insight director for fashion at Kantar, doesn’t expect the market for office suits to recover but reckons people are more willing than ever to spend money on suits for weddings and parties. “Casualisation has been growing for quite some years now,” he says– while wearing a navy jumper with dark jeans. “The suits market is down 40% in five years, I don’t think that is ever coming back to that level. But I do feel there are huge opportunities for dressing-up for celebrations – I feel like everyone is going to go very big on weddings.”

Saxton says people are demanding clothes “work harder” for them. “They don’t want to spend money buying something just for the office,” he says. “They want their clothes to have flexibility and a multipurpose nature: ‘Yes, I can wear it to work, but I could also wear it out on a night out with my mates.’ It’s now all about blurring the boundaries between work and life.”

On Black Friday in the UK, suits were the most heavily discounted items, with 54% of all tailoring marked down, according to WGSN Instock data.

At Henry Poole, Cundey thinks society is about to go through a mass “smartening up period” that will filter down across all walks of life as we return to life as it was pre-pandemic. “It’s like the great beast waking from a slumber,” he says. “As people go back to work and engage socially again, they will remember why they need to be smart.

“Soon there will be Ascot and Wimbledon, of course,” he says. “But for everyone, there’s always a point where you have to dress to a certain degree.

“When your wife or partner dresses up and you come out in a hoodie and a pair of jogging pants, you have to ask yourself, would they be happy with you? The answer is no, of course.”

The end of the suit: has Covid finished off the menswear staple? (4)

Cundey reckons the reason many young men don’t like suits is because they have been wearing the wrong size. “Lots of people say they hate wearing suits, but that’s probably because they were forced to wear an ill-fitting one at school,” he says. “I’d hate wearing them, too, if they didn’t fit. The No 1 rule is you shouldn’t feel a suit. It should be natural, there should be no tightness and no looseness.”

Wearing the wrong suit, Cundey says, is worse than not wearing one at all. “Remember when [Mark] Zuckerberg of Facebook got hauled up before Congress?” Cundey says. “He looked like a naughty schoolboy because his suit was three sizes too small.” The New York Times dubbed it the “I’m sorry suit”.

Cundey, who wears a suit every day, has a view on just about every famous man and his wardrobe. Critiquing Boris Johnson, he says, is too easy but he gives it a go anyway. “Obviously, there could be a better look for Johnson – his suits are far too big. But really, it comes down to mentality and how you carry yourself. Some people get it, some people don’t.”

Rishi Sunak, the chancellor, on the other hand, is praised for always looking “slim and trim” but “perhaps his suits are a little on the small side”.

Cundey’s sons – Henry (who is nicknamed Henry VIII, as he is the eighth generation since the original Henry Poole) and Jamie – are expected to carry on the family tailoring tradition, but even they don’t wear suits every day, Cundey finally concedes.

“They are smart casual,” he says, “but they don’t let me down.”

The end of the suit: has Covid finished off the menswear staple? (2024)

FAQs

Why did suits fall out of fashion? ›

Now, the “suit” has become casual-looking and has taken a back seat to more causal clothing styles like t-shirts and jeans. With globalization, American clothing standards have caused many other countries to emulate the same causal dressing styles, causing a decline in the “traditional” suit's use in daily life.

What will replace suits? ›

What to Wear Instead of a Suit
  • Sports Jackets: With a similar look to a suit blazer, sports jackets offer a more relaxed style, perfect for a business or smart casual look. ...
  • Casual Jackets: Great for layering, a casual jacket is a comfortable alternative to a suit blazer.

Why are suits masculine? ›

The reason for this centres on its form, as the suit often heightens male sexuality in widening shoulders, narrowing hips and aesthetically linking, in Freudian terms, the Adam's apple to the genitals via the tie.

What does wearing a suit say about you? ›

To sum it up, wearing a suit says a lot about you. It conveys your professionalism and the way others perceive you by their first impression. Showing up in an exactly tailored outfit that flatters your body is a nice touch to make sure you fit in with any situation or crowd.

Are suits losing popularity? ›

The suits market is down 40% in five years, I don't think that is ever coming back to that level. But I do feel there are huge opportunities for dressing-up for celebrations – I feel like everyone is going to go very big on weddings.” Saxton says people are demanding clothes “work harder” for them.

Do men still buy suits? ›

With that said, a suit is still an essential part of every man's wardrobe. While you may not wear it every day, sometimes a suit is the best possible outfit to wear for an occasion.

Will men wear suits again? ›

With celebrities dressing up again for major events such as the Grammys and the Oscars, suiting is back but brighter and bolder than before. Celebrity stylist, Phill Tarling is the go-to expert for many famous names; he is a big fan of the suit.

When did people stop wearing suits? ›

Over the past half-century, the wearing of suits has become far less common than it once was and is now usually reserved for formal and business activities. During the 1990s, many businesses in North America adopted casual dress codes, beginning with "Casual Fridays" and then extending to the entire business week.

What is the current trend in men's suits? ›

One of the latest trends in suiting is athleisure suits. Unlike the traditional structured wool-based suits, these are made with a more stretchy jersey fabric, typically used in tracksuits. Although looking like a suit (with a lapelled jacket and pants), this type of suit will not be acceptable in dressier workplaces.

Can big guys look good in suits? ›

Colors and patterns: Big guys look best in solid colors. Darker colors have a slimming effect. Light colored suits are tricky, as are patterns like plaid and horizontal stripes. If you prefer a patterned suit, vertical pinstripes are flattering on larger bodies as long as the stripes are not too bold.

Why are mens suits so expensive? ›

Long, strong, natural fibers are most desirable for quality garments, but take the most effort, skill, and cost to produce.. Respectablesuit brands use high-quality, long-wearing material. A suit needs over 3.5 yards of fabric to make, so it's certainly a decent chunk of the overalltcost.

Why do men wear black suits? ›

Black is associated with a certain type of formality. Since historical times, a black suit has been worn to symbolise mourning, and to show respect to the deceased and their loved ones. It is also the appropriate colour for evening events that call for black tie or the even more formal, white tie.

What is so attractive about a man in a suit? ›

Suits are more flattering to the body shape, making the wearer seem taller and slimmer. Suits are fashionable at the moment, popular with young and old alike. A man in a suit projects himself as someone who is successful and reliable. This suggests that he is good boyfriend material.

What is the most professional suit color? ›

Black. Black is considered to be the most formal, color. If you are a business professional this would be a suit you might wear in the evenings to entertain clients.

How many suits should a man own? ›

You will want five suits for each season to complete your 20 days of suit-wearing. You have a suit for every day of the month at the office. Another piece of shopping advice: When you buy a suit, you should get a shirt and tie to go with it, preferably two of each.

Is formal wear coming back? ›

Formalwear is showing signs of a rebound after pandemic-induced disruptions. In Europe and the US, retail sales of shirts and blouses, non-denim trousers and skirts are projected to grow at a faster rate between 2022 and 2026 than they had in the 10 years before the pandemic, according to Euromonitor.

What did men wear before suits? ›

Courtiers Began To Dress Differently

At this point, courtiers began to dress in sober tunics and fitted breeches, in sombre tones which echo the tones of most modern business suits. Shades of tunics and breeches worn included grey, navy and taupe. These primitive "suits" became more tailored over time.

How often should you change suits? ›

Since suits are an expensive investment, the general rule on adding a new suit to your wardrobe or retiring an old one depends on how often and gently you wear it. On an average, if you wear a suit to work regularly, then consider updating your wardrobe every three years.

What is a good price for a mens suit? ›

Basic suits are usually between $400 and $799. They're perfect for first-time buyers or one-time events. Mid-level suits range from $800 to $1,500. They're usually made of all natural fabrics and will be custom-made to fit you.

What percentage of men own suits? ›

A new poll has indicated that almost half (49%) of men own two or three suits, while 33% own four or more.

How much should a man pay for a suit? ›

Buying A Basic Suit That Suits Your Style

The Basic Suit ranges from $300 to $599, though it is easy to spend more. It's considered to be a solid price point for the first suit.

How long should a man keep a suit? ›

The veteran men's wear designer, Alan Flusser, stated in his book Style & The Man that “most suits are constructed to provide at least several years of wear.” That's true whether the suit costs $500.00 or $2000.00.

Do men wear vests with suits anymore? ›

Vests had become optional when two-piece suits rose to popularity. By the time the double-breasted craze came to an end in the late 1950s, the waistcoat had become an optional item for most men and their suits.

How do you know if a suit is out of style? ›

Whether you have one suit or 10, however, here are some key indicators that will help you know if you need to buy a new suit.
  1. You're Outdated. ...
  2. Wear and Tear. ...
  3. Your Trousers Have Pleats. ...
  4. Your Suit Features Wide Lapels. ...
  5. Your Size has Changed.

Why did men stop wearing ties? ›

Ties were something that could be slipped on before a big meeting, but they were fundamentally unnecessary and something of a nuisance to many men. And like a stuffy jacket, ties were meant to be removed or at least loosened when serious work was being done.

Do people still wear suits to weddings? ›

It's also the best bet for what men should wear to a wedding with no stated dress code. Tuxedos are optional, but they will expect a full formal suit at the very least. Not sure if it's formal? If the women are still planning on long dresses, assume it's formal.

Why did people stop wearing hats and suits? ›

One of the biggest reasons for the loss of hat-wearing is likely that we now have better control over our indoor climate than we used to. This is also why men can now go in and out of doors, sometimes wearing fewer than two layers of clothing, and why things like gloves and scarves aren't as popular as they used to be.

What suit is in style 2023? ›

Another trend for 2023 is the use of textured fabrics, such as herringbone or tweed. These fabrics add depth and interest to a suit, and can be worn in both formal and casual settings. You can choose to pair a textured suit with a solid-colored shirt and tie for a classic yet modern look.

What is the trend in suits for men in 2023? ›

One trend that is sure to make waves in 2023 is the use of bold and vibrant colours. This means that instead of the traditional black, navy, and grey, we may see suits in bright shades of green, purple, and even pink. This trend is all about making a statement and standing out from the crowd.

What Colour suits are in fashion 2023? ›

Red/Burgundy Suit – Not a new trend I know.

However 2023 is the year! This colour is very, very hot for the 2023 wedding cycle. A dark red or burgundy suit for the groom will be one of the standout looks for a groom on trend in 2023. 4 – Green Suit – Green wedding suits have been the real surprise for 2022.

How should a 70 year old man dress? ›

Stick To The Classics

Leave the trends to the younger guys and embrace the distinguished style that you can pull off. For example, some classic items that should be the foundation of your wardrobe are: suits/blazers, oxfords, dress boots, chinos, Harrington, bomber or standing collared jackets, and polo shirts.

What color suit makes you look bigger? ›

Darker shades of colors like blue, purple and brown can also help to hide flaws and create a slimming illusion. On the other hand, lighter colors, like white and khaki, can add pounds and give the illusion of a larger frame.

What clothing size do men find most attractive? ›

When it came to size, the men were asked which dress size they preferred in women, here the results were unanimous. The majority of the men (nearly 86% of them) preferred a woman with a dress size 14 to 16.

Why do some suits look cheap? ›

Suits made of synthetic materials such as polyester can lose their shape, and wrinkle and crease more. They also suffer from shininess, giving it that characteristic 'cheap' look. Unlike wool, synthetic fabrics don't drape naturally.

Should a man wear a suit every day? ›

Here are some reasons to make your suit a part of your daily wardrobe. Wearing a suit makes you look more important. Wearing one in your day-to-day life can help you get special attention in restaurants, at events and even when you travel. A well-dressed man is assumed to have status.

What is considered an expensive suit? ›

Around $1,000 and up, fabrics are exceptional, including worsted wools that break the 200s. The most exclusive fabric, known as Esperdi 220s, is used by Canali and can result in a suit costing $10,000 or more. Suits in this range usually sport a Bemberg lining, which is silklike and has a satisfying luster to it.

What color shirt goes best with a black suit? ›

For the classic fit black suit, it is recommended to wear a white shirt or a light blue shirt. For the slim-fit black suit, it is best to wear a dark blue shirt.

When should you not wear a black suit? ›

Don't wear it to the office

A black suit is too formal for most workplaces. This rule goes for interviews as well. Stick with grey or navy, and leave the black suit for weddings and galas.

What does a full black suit mean? ›

Sophisticated Color – Black is traditionally the color of authority and power. At many upmarket functions, people will wear black to signify timeless elegance. The Least People Friendly of the three basic suit colors worn by men, especially when teamed with a high contrast shirt and tie combination.

What is the most attractive part of a man? ›

The 10 most attractive body parts in a man, according to women
  • 3 of 10. Wide, strong shoulders. ...
  • 4 of 10. A ripped, tapered back. ...
  • 5 of 10. Defined, strong arms. ...
  • 6 of 10. A chiseled chest. ...
  • 7 of 10. A stong jaw. ...
  • 8 of 10. A mysterious mouth. ...
  • 9 of 10. Powerful hands. ...
  • 10 of 10. The right amount of facial hair.

What is the most attractive thing on a guy? ›

Approachability is attractive

Of course, men blessed with symmetrical features, chiseled jaws and great hair will always score higher in the attractiveness stakes, but several studies have shown that women tend to be more attracted to approachable, average looks when looking for a long-term partner.

What's most attractive to man in a woman? ›

Men prefer a woman who can stay calm and relaxed. Beauty is more than make-up and a fancy haircut. Men find women more attractive when they are neat and clean. Men find women who smell nice, who have clean hair and hydrated skin more attractive than a face perfectly covered in makeup.

What two color suits should a man own? ›

#1.

This may sound like beating a dead horse, but a solid navy suit and a solid gray suit should always be your co-MVPs. These two suit styles are valued so highly because navy suits and gray suits are hands down the most versatile, all-purpose suits that you'll look to again and again.

What 5 suits should a man own? ›

Contact us for more fashion tips and all your suiting needs. Common Questions: What 5 suits should a man own? Everyman should own a black suit, a navy suit, a grey suit, a brown suit and a tan suit with white, powder blue or cream shirts.

What color suit should you wear to a funeral? ›

In the Western world, black is the traditional color of mourning. Your suit should be a dark color, preferably black. If you don't own a black suit, a dark gray, charcoal or navy blue suit is okay as well. What's most important is choosing a muted color that doesn't distract from the occasion.

What four suits should a man own? ›

Every man needs a combination of the “Core 4” suits that are a necessity for every dapper man's wardrobe. To begin or just strengthen your professional wardrobe the “Core 4” suits are as follows: A solid blue suit, a blue striped suit, a solid charcoal suit and a striped charcoal suit.

What is the average suit size for a man? ›

Sizing Guide
Suit SizeTrousers SizeBody Shape
40 R34 WaistAverage Build-Quiete Tall
40 L34 WaistAverage Build-Very Tall
42 S36 WaistBordering on stocky-Low Sized
42 R36 WaistJust above average Height and Build
32 more rows

How many pairs of pants does the average man own? ›

The number of casual pants you only really need and wear is 4 to 5, even though most women own 7 pairs of pants on average, and men 6 pairs. Add 2 pairs of formal trousers to complete your wardrobe.

Why was Mike Ross removed from suits? ›

While he certainly had faith in the writers, he felt the place that Ross was in at that moment served as a satisfying conclusion to his character, so he decided the time was right to depart.

Why did cinemas ban suits? ›

Some UK cinemas have banned groups of young people wearing suits during screenings of Minions: The Rise Of Gru. The decision comes after some young moviegoers were criticised for rowdy behaviour after a viral trend erupted on the social media app TikTok.

Will suits ever come back? ›

Suits was cancelled earlier this year by the USA Network after nine years of the legal drama. The news was announced in January by the president of the Network Chris McCumber, much to the dismay of fans.

Was Katrina fired from suits? ›

Katrina was forced to resign and Jessica's last words to her was that the firm took back VersaLife so Louis will not be going to Zane, and neither would she. In the episode, "Enough Is Enough" Louis had every intention to bring Katrina back to the firm, but sadly was unable to do so.

Are Harvey and Mike friends in real life? ›

"Suits" fans likely already know Macht and Rafferty have been close friends for decades after meeting in drama school. In fact, Macht told "Blast Magazine" in 2012 that their daughters are even best friends.

Who replaced Mike Ross in Suits? ›

Patrick J. Adams
Adams at a promotional event for Suits in 2013
BornPatrick Johannes Adams August 27, 1981 Toronto, Ontario, Canada
NationalityCanadian American
Alma materUniversity of Southern California (BFA)
4 more rows

What was Meghan Markle salary on Suits? ›

Markle reportedly made about $50,000 per episode of Suits toward the end of her tenure on the USA Network series. Combined with her bit parts and walk-on roles in other TV shows and movies, her total net worth from acting is estimated to be around $2 million, according to Forbes.

Why are the minions in suits? ›

The minions are wearing suits in the new movie because they are going to court.

Why are suits not allowed Minions? ›

Teenagers in suits have been banned from buying tickets to the new Minions film which is now showing at cinemas. The move comes after reports of rowdy behaviour from groups of teens, which has been fuelled by a new TikTok trend.

Why is everyone wearing a suit to Minions? ›

The suits are a tribute to Steve Carrell's character, Felonius Gru, the Minions' conniving boss in the series.

Did Meghan leave Suits because of Harry? ›

Suits creator Aaron Korsh said he and the show's writers were preparing for Meghan's exit as her relationship with Harry blossomed and the actress received increased media exposure. “I sort of had a decision to make because I didn't want to intrude and ask her, 'Hey, what's going on?

What is Gabriel Macht doing now? ›

Where is Gabriel Macht now? Macht's Harvey Specter appeared in every episode of Suits and was the anchor of the show's many plotlines. Since the show has ended, Macht's only acting credit is still as Specter in the spinoff series Pearson.

Why did Patrick Adams leave Suits? ›

It didn't feel right for where I was at in my life, either. I started having conversations with Aaron and we both decided [Adams leaving] made sense, as sad and scary as it was. It just felt like it was the way to go.

Who replaced Donna in Suits? ›

Gretchen Bodinski is an executive assistant at Litt Wheeler Williams Bennett and is Louis Litt's personal legal secretary. She made her first appearance in "Compensation", the second episode of the fifth season. She was hired after Donna Paulsen left Harvey Specter to work for Louis.

Does Mike cheat on Rachel? ›

The relationship turned physical, but that's when she revealed a complication: She was married. Mike initially does the right thing and turns her away, but after falling further into his mental health spiral, they engage in an affair. He eventually calls it off despite her saying she'll end her marriage to be with him.

Who is the least likeable character in Suits? ›

MIKE is totally the least likeable character. He looks for the easy fixes, decides to be a fraud and then sucks others into his secret, blames others, is ridiculously arrogant. He actually thinks he's justified in calling himself a lawyer, and almost believes he's innocent because . . .

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